Pellaeon

[MOC] Midi-scale Super Star Destroyer Executor

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This is absolutely fantastic. Love it.

Is there any chance we could get some more detailed photos of the construction - particularly the internal framework? I would be more than happy to make a donation to your Lego fund in exchange for enough information to copy this model.

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This midi scale Destroyer is simply beautiful. Do you plan to release or sell plans for it?

I do really hope so!

All the best,

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Sorry for posting 6 months later but I would also love to know if you could post some structure pictures or anything to guide us through your amazing work :)

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Seeing this post for the first time. Amazing work, I almost like it more than the UCS SSD that I own. This should / could definitely be an official LEGO release and needs instructions badly!!! Put in the effort and I'm sure you could make some good $$ selling them for $5-$10 - people would be happy to pay you for the time you spent making them.

Great work!!!!

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I'm afraid that I do not have a nice instruction PDF to sell you.

However, I have obtained permission from Pellaeon to share with you my Executor LXF file, which I based on his model. Click on the image to download the LXF file:

executor_800.jpg

As you can see, my model is very similar (although not identical). I made some changes to the upper city, and the internal frame is quite different. I have built this model in physical bricks, but I am embarrased to admit that due to an accident involving a camera, a stream and a daughter, there are no decent pictures. I do have some rather badly lit and blurry iPhone 3GS photos on dropbox.

Unavoidably, there are issues caused by the translation to LDD. I have managed to keep these to a minimum, but there are a couple of things to watch out for:

* The two halves of the lower hull refused to close all the way up on LDD. In real life they are flush with the tile plates on the centre-line. There is also a 1x2 plate missing on LDD from just aft of the lower city/docking bay.

* I used "1 x 1 cone bricks" (4589) pushed into "Technic mid-driving rings" (32187 ) for the larger size of engine on the physical model, to emulate the look of Pelleaon's original. However, the technic part won't join to anything except a technic axle in LDD. Hence I had to switch to using the smaller wheels ( 42610 ) for all the engines on the LDD model.

* On the physical model, the bridge is held on by a "1x1 tile with clip" ( 2555 ) again as on Pellaeon's original. This refused to work in LDD, so I had to improvise. There is no such part as a 1x1 round plate with open stud in dark blueish gray (or light blueish gray for that matter, as used on the mini Star Destroyer)

* The upper hull is held on with a pair of "1x1 plates with clips" (6019) on the physical model. These join onto the 1x2 plates with handles at the back. These parts could not be placed on the LXF file.

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I'm afraid that I do not have a nice instruction PDF to sell you.

However, I have obtained permission from Pellaeon to share with you my Executor LXF file, which I based on his model. Click on the image to download the LXF file:

I'm Pellaeon and I approve this post! Thanks for taking the time in LDD, ScottishDave. Maybe we should still do PDF instructions... it sounds like there's a good fifteen bucks in it for us! :tongue:

The other big difference between his and mine is the interior A-frame: mine is a Technic construct and his is built from plates and clips. His looks just as stable and I suspect the angle between his hull plates is better, so I might give his A-frame a try myself.

To anyone else who replicates this Executor: I insist that you share pictures with us! :grin:

Edited by Pellaeon

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Thank you very much guys !

Pellaeon, could you post some pictures of the structure you created ? Juste opening your moc a little bit ? :blush:

I had another question : is it meant to be built with the pieces of the SSD official set ? Even if not, can I build it from these pieces ?

Edited by leoparder

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I'm Pellaeon and I approve this post! Thanks for taking the time in LDD, ScottishDave.

So glad you liked it. I wouldn't want to upset Admiral Thrawn's right-hand man.

Maybe we should still do PDF instructions... it sounds like there's a good fifteen bucks in it for us! :tongue:

I am thinking of making some instructions. My nephew wants one of these for Christmas. However, this is no small task. I am rapidly coming to appreciate just how well-designed and carefully thought out official lego instructions are. It is rather daunting.

The other big difference between his and mine is the interior A-frame: mine is a Technic construct and his is built from plates and clips. His looks just as stable and I suspect the angle between his hull plates is better, so I might give his A-frame a try myself.

Full disclosure: the A-Frame on my MOC was copied from a French-language forum. I figured that it would probably work as the hull-plates on the centreline of both models were the same wege plate. As you have noted, it did make the nose align better. I think, however, that it also made my MOC slightly narrower and pushed the profile up a bit higher that your original.

I've been toying with the idea of lowering the profile using a half-stud offset - jumper plates or a pair of 1x2 plates strategically placed - at the back of the A-frame. If I get it precisely correct, the nose will still align but the overall profile will be flatter and the model will be slightly wider (and probably more accurate).

It is a lot of work, however. If I build another one for the nephew I will look into it.

To anyone else who replicates this Executor: I insist that you share pictures with us! :grin:

Seconded!

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I had another question : is it meant to be built with the pieces of the SSD official set ? Even if not, can I build it from these pieces ?

Leoparder, that's a very good question. My LXF was not designed to be built from 10221-1. However, it shares a lot of parts - mainly the light grey plates and wedge plates. You can get a good start using the official set. In fact, going by the numbers of key parts, you can probably build the outer hulls of six or seven midi-scale from one official set. Maybe eight. Hmmm. An entire fleet... :classic:

However, glancing through the parts list for the official set, I can see some that some important pieces are missing from 10221-1 (shame on you, Lego!):

- the hinge plates for the A-frame

- the engines

- the clip plates and bars along the sides which hold the lower hull on.

Also, there are far fewer types of greeblies for the upper city.

You may be able to substitute other types of hinges, and I would suggest building the city in light grey. The details of the city are less important: just use any bits you have lying around and try to get the shape about right. That's what I did. :wink:

I suggest that if you want a precise answer, you take my LXF and run it through LDD Manager to generate a parts list, then compare to the inventory from the offical set.

I'm sure that with some clever part substitution and careful refactoring of the midi-scale model, you can get the overlap to a maximum!

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Okay, fine, I finally took some photos of my A-frame... as you can see, it's a bit messy and the angle isn't quite right, but it is thin which gives the ship a lower, more accurate profile (as ScottishDave noted).

8916669138_3aceaa5367_n.jpg 8916671092_08b906c325_n.jpg

may be able to substitute other types of hinges, and I would suggest building the city in light grey. The details of the city are less important: just use any bits you have lying around and try to get the shape about right. That's what I did. :wink:

Looking at the LDD, I think clips will work in place of the old-school hinges. As for the city, I did try to preserve overall buildings-and-streets look, but beyond that the specific greebling is mostly random.

8916056903_814ef254d9_n.jpg

I also took pictures of the frontmost engine banks, as they were a feature I redid about 60 times... and one of the few parts I am 100% happy with!

8916673386_787c1cd415.jpg 8916059335_80fb0aebe9_t.jpg

Edited by Pellaeon

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Okay, fine, I finally took some photos of my A-frame... as you can see, it's a bit messy and the angle isn't quite right,

Many thanks for the pictures of the frame. It isn't as messy as all that!

but it is thin which gives the ship a lower, more accurate profile (as ScottishDave noted).

Agreed: My frame is thicker (especially at the bottom).

It is also narrower. This is down to the angle of the internal A-Frame. This also makes my "city" narrower, and with fewer "streets".

This is however the trade-off for a better angle at the nose.

I also took pictures of the frontmost engine banks, as they were a feature I redid about 60 times... and one of the few parts I am 100% happy with!

So that's how you did it! Most excellent work, sir: well worth being pleased with. My next version will include this design.

What does the bar at the back connect to? A technic axle holder or pin?

Edited by ScottishDave

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Might have to build a mini A-wing to take your SSD out.

Then again, LEGO dont build bricks that small.

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Might have to build a mini A-wing to take your SSD out.

Then again, LEGO dont build bricks that small.

Indeedy. A Super Star Destroyer is "meant" to be eleven miles long (controversially ignoring the inconsistent offical figures and going to the straight dope).

This model is about 22 inches long. Each "stud" therefore represents 275 metres.

An A-wing is 10 metres long.

By my calculations, an in-scale A-Wing would be 0.2 mm long.

I'd better keep my windows closed in case a midgie decides to make a suicide run on my bridge deflector shield...

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Wow. This is an incredible model. Really love it. And it looks way more sturdy than the UCS version! You have a true gift for greebling.

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Wow. This is an incredible model. Really love it. And it looks way more sturdy than the UCS version! You have a true gift for greebling.

I just wanted to respond to this comment - I own the UCS SSD and it is Rock Solid! Super sturdy, very easy to pick up and move around - just VERY long. I posted above, but once again this MOC is simply amazing.

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Wow. This is an incredible model. Really love it. And it looks way more sturdy than the UCS version! You have a true gift for greebling.

Thank you! Everything is hung off that central Technic frame, so as long as you "swoosh" it by the stand it's very stable.

Agreed: My frame is thicker (especially at the bottom).

It is also narrower. This is down to the angle of the internal A-Frame. This also makes my "city" narrower, and with fewer "streets".

This is however the trade-off for a better angle at the nose.

I bet you could get your A-frame thinner but it might be too unstable. Of course I would like mine to be even thinner if it were possible! Your idea of simply hanging the bottom hull off the top hull would eliminate the need for both up and down facing hinge bricks, which in turn might eliminate the need for a brick-built A-frame at all... hmm.

The thinner city is disappointing, I was looking at that last night. It might be possible to shorten a few of my "blocks" in order to preserve all the "streets".

What does the bar at the back connect to? A technic axle holder or pin?

Bar-with-clip shoved into some technic piece.

Edited by Pellaeon

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The thinner city is disappointing, I was looking at that last night. It might be possible to shorten a few of my "blocks" in order to preserve all the "streets".

I was thinking about that. In order to fit your city onto my frame, all you need is an extra half-plate's worth of width on either side. How about:

redex.png

Bar-with-clip shoved into some technic piece.

Thanks!

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I just discovered this and it is absolutely fantastic :wub: ! Thanks so much for sharing the LXF, I look forward to making a diorama recreating the battle of Endor one day with this model of yours.

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