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OK this may seem a silly thing to ask. But how do i join 2 beams at 90deg. Hope that makes sence :wacko:

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Or

Pin Connector Perpendicular, cant post the URL since I´m new here

Welcome Swe_Mckvack :classic: I think this is the piece that you are referring to:

55615.jpg

Technic, Pin Connector Perpendicular 3 x 3 Bent with 4 Pins

There are many other ways to join beams at 90 degrees. It really depends on their exact orientation, how strong you need the connection to be, how much room you have, and which pieces you have available that you can use.

Perhaps looking through some official Lego Building Instructions will give you a better understanding of how beams can be joined together:

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Welcome Swe_Mckvack :classic: I think this is the piece that you are referring to:

55615.jpg

Technic, Pin Connector Perpendicular 3 x 3 Bent with 4 Pins

There are many other ways to join beams at 90 degrees. It really depends on their exact orientation, how strong you need the connection to be, how much room you have, and which pieces you have available that you can use.

Perhaps looking through some official Lego Building Instructions will give you a better understanding of how beams can be joined together:

Many thanks never seen that bit before in any of me sets. Better order a lot from Lego

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Because you can make it very easily with different lengths on both sides.

What length of the beam would you expect?

As soon as they make one, there will be people whining it is too short/long. :devil:

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Wonder why Lego don't make a 90 bend beam

A 90 degree bend is which direction? Like with the holes facing inwards? They do make a few 90 liftarms(as stated in a post above) with the holes facing outwards 32526.jpg

I guess that you could also use one of these guys 64179.gif?1 to get a 90 degree angle..

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What about since these pieces mentioned are much newer than the old studded construction, just using a simple 2" x however long plate underneath and over the top for more stability? Or any plate for that matter, would be simpler and depending on the length of the beams coming together, a long plate might work. For instance let's say you are trying to join a 16 length beam with a 8 length beam, you could use a 2x8 plate underneath to connect them together for solid rigidity or possibly using a regular size 1x6 brick on top of the under plate and another 2x8 plate on top for the ultimate in solidness...

Edited by TechnicFreak

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you could use a 2x8 plate underneath to connect them together for solid rigidity or possibly using a regular size 1x6 brick on top of the under plate and another 2x8 plate on top for the ultimate in solidness

i rely heavily on this technique. it results in very rigid, lightweight structures.

KEvron

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@KEvron-

That was the idea, cheap way for effective rigidity I thought. I'm going back to the days of yore when studless beams and plates were in abundance and used in most models, but instead of using all the new parts made for connecting mostly studless beam structures, it just made sense.

i rely heavily on this technique. it results in very rigid, lightweight structures.

KEvron

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