Sérgio Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) This MOC was done in teamwork, I did this project in LDD and a friend of my LUG has the real Its a Portuguese train. 7Wide,more than 2300Parts and have lot of SNOT, the doors open, with interiors, seats 32, and WC, I hope you like BS folder(real bricks) http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=490514 BS folder (LDD Project) http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=321535 PS: i know, some parts is not equal to real, but my LDD its from LDD 2.0 or 1.5 (i dont remember but its old) Edited December 7, 2011 by Sérgio Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LEGO Train 12 Volts Posted December 7, 2011 Fantastic train Sérgio! It looks like the real one ...great building technique: MOC with perfect color & shape! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harnbak Posted December 7, 2011 Beautiful and very realistic - a masterpiece! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lightningtiger Posted December 7, 2011 A perfect Lego model of a real train, a huge to you and your friend 'Sérgio'.....Brick On ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZoomZoom Posted December 7, 2011 Beautiful train! It looks like real, 10/10! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cimddwc Posted December 7, 2011 Really great! And 7-wide seems to be the ideal width for this, too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LEGO Guy Bri Posted December 7, 2011 Excellent MOC 'Sergio'. You all did a fantastic job recreating this train! Keep up the great work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ashi Valkoinen Posted December 7, 2011 Hi Sergio, this is an almost perfect model with great details. Why do you not try this model with medium blue color instead of blue? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain J Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) Exellent train MOC! The shape is practically exact to that of the real train! But one question: is it motorized? Edited December 7, 2011 by Captain J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bricks n bolts Posted December 8, 2011 Fantastic MOC, great detail and nicely proportioned. I love that the doors work too, can you say how you did the metallic looking detail near the driver cab, looks great but can't see what bricks are involved? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clcwong Posted December 8, 2011 Nice train indeed =] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Man with a hat Posted December 8, 2011 Great work. It is a really nice train you made. Actually I think you managed to make an ugly train look good. (And now I hope I didn't offend anyone) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hrw-Amen Posted December 8, 2011 Really nice train, I always like to see models based on real engines. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sokratesz Posted December 9, 2011 It's beautiful :) Q for 7-wide builders. Where exactly do you make the switch from 6 wide bogeys to 7 wide carriages? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AussieJimbo Posted December 9, 2011 Top job, Sergio. Great looking model and an accurate rendition of the original train. :classic: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peterab Posted December 10, 2011 It's beautiful :) Q for 7-wide builders. Where exactly do you make the switch from 6 wide bogeys to 7 wide carriages? There are a few techniques that you can use. If you want to use standard bogey plates, you need a hole in your train base centered on the middle stud of your 7 wide base. Thin Technic liftarm or these plate with hole will work, though the liftarms normally give a more solid base. Another technique is to use a standard 4x2 technic plate with brackets on either end followed by a plate on tile as illustrated in this thread These techniques also work for power function bogies, where the hole allows a technic axle to drive the wheels. My favorite solution, for carriages where I don't need powered bogies, is just to build a 7 wide base with a six wide plate and a one wide plate followed by a second layer of two wide plates on the sides. I then use a 2x2 turntable to connect the bogie, it can attach into the tubes (rather than between them) of the six wide baseplate which gives the required offset to correctly center the bogey. It also means you can abandon the more expensive bogey plate in favour of a brick built bogey which is likely to be cheaper and more flexible for detailing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites