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Kadee Couplers and Lego

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I have been wondering if it is possible if you could use O scale Kadee knuckle couplers with Lego bricks for trains. The magnets are IMO not very reliable with long trains and not prototypical (yes, I know it's Lego but...)

805b.jpg

805a.jpg

You would have to be able to insert a screw and nut/lock washer ect. to hold the coupler box to the car. Has anyone done this? I have a few extra pairs lying around on my workbench and will play around with them and post pictures if I come up with anything.

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Interesting...

I've used technic plates screwed onto a board for a school project for my son and it worked out quite well, so you might be able to use something like:

3709b.gif

to screw your couplers onto (that's the plate with three holes, although you can't see them in the picture).

Frankly, though, they may need to stick out too far to handle curves and you could probably create a LEGO solution that looked better, perhaps with pieces like:

3176.gif

and pins, or even just technic liftarms.

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The newer couplers LEGO makes can be "locked" together with two 1x2 tiles (or a plate for the top). That seems like it would be far easier if all you want is pulling a long train. If you intend to try and make an automated decoupler or something I can see trying to find another solution, though.

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I would also recommend 1x2 plates, it does the job fine! It also keeps your Lego collection clean, so you don't need those Kadee couplers. I also think that it doesn't look very Lego-ish when you use all kinds of not-Lego-parts....

Greetz, LegoSjaak

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but what about decoupling. At this moment it is almost impossible to have decent decoupling options. I know people came up with some somewhat neat idea's (even pf based inside the shunter etc). but in the model world one of the most interesting features is the decoupling and shunting of trains in emplacements.

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I have been wondering if it is possible if you could use O scale Kadee knuckle couplers with Lego bricks for trains.

A search of lugnet.com for Kadee will also turn up a lot of discussions, some going back to 2001. I haven't tried this solution myself, but from what I've seen, it works very well.

-Elroy

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Jeff Christner, a long time ago (1999?), used Kadees on his small Lego switching layout. Unfortunatly his site is no longer online but a copy of his page from another defunct site can be seen at the Wayback Machine http://web.archive.org/web/20080423110002/http://www.ozbricks.com/jediagh/a_trains/projects/kadeeswitches.htm

One thing to consider is that you don't want he couplings to be able to pivot from side to side like Lego ones do. The Kadees do not have the self centering effect produced by the magnet.

Edited by talltim

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I've converted all my train MOCs to Kaydee couplers. Official LEGO sets still have their magnets.

kadee_coupler_1.jpg

IMO it looks pretty good and does not distract at all from the LEGO. No LEDO brick was mutilated or otherwise hurt in this installation. I use a #2 screw & nut through the hole of a 3 x 2 plate with hole.

kadee_coupler_2.jpg

Dan-147

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That's a great idea and I think it looks pretty good. I use the Micro-trains (same as kadee) couplers on my n-scale trains and they make a quality product. I would have thought you would need to drill but I guess not. Nice work.

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Sorry Dan, I should have thought of yours, I commented on your Flickr pic! Your construction breakdown shot is really informative too,

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Perhaps someone with a better knowledge of LUGNET lore could tell me, but I seem to recall hearing somewhere that a group of Train AFOLs once approached Kadee about a custom LEGO knuckle coupler solution. After some debating, Kadee came back with a solution that looked somewhat like Dan's rather than any custom parts.

Is there any truth to this tale?

And Tim, the #806 couplers have a centering spring in the gearbox so as long as they're secured to the truck or body of the car, they'll center up even better than the LEGO magnets.

Oh and Kadee couplers are the way to go if you do any switching/shunting/spotting!

ccrr_011_s.jpg

Edited by greenmtvince

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I really like that hopper in the picture above. That's a great build, very prototypical.

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Here's the thread that I remember in regards to an official LEGO-compatible coupler: http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=25596

If you follow the thread, it looks like someone else was talking to them a few years before that.

-Elroy

Ah now I think I remember where I heard that. That strange feeling of dejavu makes me think we've had this conversation before... :look:

I really like that hopper in the picture above. That's a great build, very prototypical.

Thanks! Unfortunately it'll get taken apart soon to get upgraded to 8-wide. Maybe I'll have to submit the LDD file for that 6-wide model to Railbricks.

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Perhaps someone with a better knowledge of LUGNET lore could tell me, but I seem to recall hearing somewhere that a group of Train AFOLs once approached Kadee about a custom LEGO knuckle coupler solution. After some debating, Kadee came back with a solution that looked somewhat like Dan's rather than any custom parts.

Is there any truth to this tale?

In the summer of 2010, when the NMRA convention came to Milwaukee (where I live), the Kadee reps were there. At the time I was working on a way to attatch Kadee #806s to my trains (I use a very simmilar method to the one above). They said they did discuss it with AFOLs, and are always interested in new things. I believe they said they came up with basicaly a 2x3 plate with whole folded to the gearbox idea but also said simply bolting an existing model was easier. They also said the AFOLs seemd to lose intrest after that. Personally a Kadee coupler molded to a LEGO compatible piece would be awsome, the big thing is getting enough AFOLs to be willing to purchase them.

For now the #806 bolted to the 2x3 Plate with whole works fine. I ordered a bunch from a local hobby shop but just havent attatched them all yet. Im also going to install under track uncoupling magnets so you can spot cars on spurs without touching them.

Sal

WFB, WI

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