timslegos

Studless vs. Studful

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8 minutes ago, ozacek said:

it seems anything is possible :)

Well, studfull frame (brick/two plates/brick) connected in few places perpendicularly is the most rigid part you can make in Technic.

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2 hours ago, ozacek said:

it seems anything is possible :)

incuding raising a thread from the dead after five years :)

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5 hours ago, bonox said:

incuding raising a thread from the dead after five years :)

It would be nice though to see if the perception to this question has changed after so many years of studless models from TLG and from the community. At the start of this topic in 2011 studless was considered (too?) difficult to master compared to the studfull we all knew, but now we have a whole generation that grew up with studless only... I never use studfull anymore in any of my MOCs (apart from decoration here and there), and my selection of studfull technic parts pales in comparison to the load of studless I have laying around. Times have changed...

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FThe biggest problems I have with mixing Technic Studless & Studful is accomodating the 1/2 stud offset between the two systems.
Especially when arranging gears to get correct meshing and I often I have to devise ways to achieve this when building GBC modules.
The two books by Yoshinito Isoogawa have many ideas & solutions for this problem.

Edited by Doug72

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3 hours ago, Doug72 said:

The two books by Yoshinito Isoogawa have many ideas & solutions for this problem.

If somebody want's to Google, correct name is Yoshihito Isogawa  :)

For my GBC's I almost use only combination of studless and studded for frame rigidity but as Doug already mentioned, the half stud offset can be a nightmare. A good example is the Akiyuki Ball Factory which I re-engineered in V3 with frame.

And I like the F1 models of RoscoPC a lot (have 14), a good example of studded and studdles for car models in one build, for me perfect as studless only cars to my designer eye  look messy with lack of details despite the fact that some studless builds are (engineering) masterpieces in the eyes of my engineering other split personality half :)

Edited by Berthil
typos

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Thanks to my niece I am getting back into lego having not used much since the 90's so studless beams are all very new to me.

I still have loads of vintage technic stuff the prize set been the 8860 car, all the parts are mixed up now so would struggle to fully build it again. Just bought the 42095 power functions remote racer and a few other bits and pieces on ebay (extra studless beams, steering rack, servo motor, balloon wheels and differential) to update my collection. Went for a studless set over the 76112 Batmobile as I already have a lot of the old studded parts.

Loving the new construction options the studless parts bring but will keep mixing with old parts in my own builds. Not so bothered about looking realistic or clean, just like experimenting with different wheel setups etc. I find the old studded parts better for random embellishment with classic lego bits which my niece enjoys.

 

Edit: I'm envious of all the elaborate suspension setups posted on here. Don't think I can manage much more than the setup used on the 8860 with the parts I have. Is there any cheaper way of getting started with the custom hubs, ball joints etc rather than buying another expensive kit like the 42099?

Edited by I Am Jon

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46 minutes ago, I Am Jon said:

Edit: I'm envious of all the elaborate suspension setups posted on here. Don't think I can manage much more than the setup used on the 8860 with the parts I have. Is there any cheaper way of getting started with the custom hubs, ball joints etc rather than buying another expensive kit like the 42099?

While 42099 has nice suspension parts, it isn't worth the price unless you also want the Control+ stuff or the new CV-joints. You'd better off buying suspension parts separately from Bricklink or whatever if that's the only thing you want for now. Another option is to search for some older (large) car sets secondhand, as they are probably less expensive than buying something that's still on the market and will get you lots of other parts too. There are lots and lots of different suspension setups though, so it can be difficult to decide which parts you will need, so looking at MOCs in here Eurobricks or for example in Rebrickable can help.

As for studless vs. studful, I'm also one of those who returned to Lego long after studful had been phased out so almost all of it is somehow new to me. Studless is much more difficult to begin with, and building something that's actually functional while being rigid enough but not using parts wastefully is a learning process where you build, take apart and rebuild it over and over again. Building with studs is so much easier when you always have more connection points and the structural parts themselves are more rigid. It's especially difficult when you don't know well the final dimensions of whatever you're building, as it can be difficult to decide ahead which pins and beams to select to whichever part of the build.

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3 hours ago, howitzer said:

While 42099 has nice suspension parts, it isn't worth the price unless you also want the Control+ stuff or the new CV-joints. You'd better off buying suspension parts separately from Bricklink or whatever if that's the only thing you want for now. Another option is to search for some older (large) car sets secondhand, as they are probably less expensive than buying something that's still on the market and will get you lots of other parts too. There are lots and lots of different suspension setups though, so it can be difficult to decide which parts you will need, so looking at MOCs in here Eurobricks or for example in Rebrickable can help.

That's what I've already been doing off ebay, just got a new set to get me started then a few extra bits. It looks like for the useful suspension bits: shocks, ball joints, arms, hubs etc I either need to buy a truck kit or buy parts individuality in which case it's hard to figure out what bits to get. Managed to find a basic stubless beam steering rack and differential as mini kits. I remember the steering in my 8860 was very fragile and the old style diff doesn't look up to running the newer high torque motors.

Already been on a spending spree and have loads of new parts to play with so will see what I can do with them before spending more.

Edit: I see you can order replacement parts direct from lego.com. Probably the best way for me to go, already got an idea of some parts I want. Will build up a list and put in an order sometime.

Edited by I Am Jon

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