tripletschiee

8110 - Unimog - MODs and Improvements

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Good evening together,

my name is Toby (31) from germany, i am a passionate lego fan since the age of 7 years. a very long time i collected lego 9V railroad trains and still have some old classics on my own.

In 1992 i got a gift, it was a lego technic truck (set 8868). Roundabout 5-7 years ago i sold that truck on ebay.

No idea why, but recently has made me re-addicted for Lego Technic.

I have to say that today's models have nothing to do with the "old" models from the 90s. Motors, batteries, air tanks, wow ... It took not long so I decided yesterday to purchase a Unimog.

Quickly, I have become aware of this forum and found this thread. With all respect - it is damn long! I'll spend the next few days to learn about possibilities of this model.

What I have not found so far: There are already a number of models that can be controlled by remote control (steering and drive)

Is there a list of parts to realize this? I have no Lego Technic parts more in my possession, so I have to order precisely items.

Thanks for help in advance

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If you use bricklink, brickset etc, put in a factory set number and the catalogue will tell you the parts requested.

eg

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=8868-1

If you are talking about making a custom design, you'll have to find a parts list from them, or a list uploaded to rebrickable.com for example. Either way, the process is the same.

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Sorry, I have formulated my question wrong.

My plan is to remote control the Unimog. I am looking for instructions on how to change the unimog including the special parts which are required cause they are not part of the original set.

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at a basic level you will need IR receivers (with hand controllers), additional motors (either plain or servo) and a collection of bits from your imagination to couple the whole lot together.

Have you seen someone else's RC Mog that you wish to copy or are you asking how to do it from first principles? If the former, please post a link or ask the original posted for the parts he/she used. If the latter, how long is a piece of string?

I would suggest that you would be best off beginning with LPEPower's steering modifications which will make motor control of it much less harsh.

perhaps try these for inspiration

Edited by bonox

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Hard to believe, I have read through the ENTIRE thread. Cost "only" 5-6 hours, but it is very interesting. Neverless i have some questions.

First of all, what does a air tank exactly do? what kind of improvement?

I imagine so far that in every situation are enough air reserves. so large pneumatic cylinders can move quickly and do not have to wait for air pressure?

The second one is about rc steering.

In this thread are discussed two different ways of building it. The first one is realized with an M-motor into the cabin. The second solution is realized with a servo motor in the front axle.

Both results should be great. Which version is it really the best solution in terms of a reliable and stable steering?

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i have build and tested both alternatives:

a) steering with M-motor in cabin: advantage: slightly more suspension travel + working steering wheel (which is driven by the same m-motor) --> this is the solution i have finally used

b) steering with servo-motor on the front axle: advantage: simpler design, disadvantage: no working steering wheel possible, slightly less suspension travel

from a single steering viewpoint both versions work great - overall i prefer a (M-Motor in the cabin)

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First of all, what does a air tank exactly do? what kind of improvement?

An air tank is good for two things:

- you have air pressure left immediately after a movement, so you do not need to wait for the pressure to build up (although it doesn't take all that long with the compressor)

- you don't need to be running the compressor the whole time (vibrating and making noise) you operate the cylinders: the air tank lasts for a few movements (this is my main motivation using an air tank)

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First of all, what does a air tank exactly do? what kind of improvement?

I imagine so far that in every situation are enough air reserves. so large pneumatic cylinders can move quickly and do not have to wait for air pressure?

An air tank is not necessary, it can just add more immediate response. The basic issue is that the volume of the compressor pump is small compared to the volume of the actuating cylinders. Because of this, the pump needs to cycle a large number of times in order to fill an actuator, especially one under load. Since the pump doesn't move all that quickly, this can result in slow response. The advantage of an air tank is that it stores up pressure allowing the pump to store power over a longer period of time when there is no demand, and then release that power in a shorter period of time when needed. The more air tanks you have, the longer they take to fill but also the longer they will provide uninterrupted power. Note that the air tank does NOT add more capability. The force limit of an actuator is typically based on the pressure at which the seals leak or the hoses pop off. In either case, and air tank doesn't change the result.

The second one is about rc steering.

In this thread are discussed two different ways of building it. The first one is realized with an M-motor into the cabin. The second solution is realized with a servo motor in the front axle.

Both results should be great. Which version is it really the best solution in terms of a reliable and stable steering?

A servo has a fixed output range of +/- 90 degrees. This means that, for a given steering lock, you really only have one gear ratio option. Depending on the size of your vehicle (and 8100 is very large), you may not have enough power to drive the steering, especially when the vehicle is stopped. The advantage is that it automatically returns to center and, with a proportional controller, can be commanded to intermediate positions.

An M-motor can be geared to whatever ratio you like. This means you can get more effective power to your steering system for big models, albeit at the cost of a slower rate. The disadvantage is that it does not return to center. A high speed steering system can be very difficult to center properly to get the vehicle to drive straight, but if it is slow enough this is no problem.

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Thanks for the infos regarding the air tank.

What type of order-number does it have?

A servo has a fixed output range of +/- 90 degrees. [...] Depending on the size of your vehicle (and 8100 is very large), you may not have enough power to drive the steering, especially when the vehicle is stopped. [...].

aha? after reading this thread i thought that it is the strength of the servo, that he has a lot of power for steering without any reduced gearing?!

Edited by Draco

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Thanks for the infos regarding the air tank.

What type of order-number does it have?

I don't know what you mean by this. I don't think you can order this part directly from LEGO since it is not included in any current sets. You can get it at Bricklink or from LEGO Education.

aha? after reading this thread i thought that it is the strength of the servo, that he has a lot of power for steering without any reduced gearing?!

The servo does have internal gearing between the motor and the output, so it does have decent power. However, you are still limited by the small output rotation range which you cannot modify and still maintain a good steering lock. It may or may not work depending on your application.

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Good evening together,

my name is Toby (31) from germany, i am a passionate lego fan since the age of 7 years. a very long time i collected lego 9V railroad trains and still have some old classics on my own.

In 1992 i got a gift, it was a lego technic truck (set 8868). Roundabout 5-7 years ago i sold that truck on ebay.

No idea why, but recently has made me re-addicted for Lego Technic.

I have to say that today's models have nothing to do with the "old" models from the 90s. Motors, batteries, air tanks, wow ... It took not long so I decided yesterday to purchase a Unimog.

Quickly, I have become aware of this forum and found this thread. With all respect - it is damn long! I'll spend the next few days to learn about possibilities of this model.

What I have not found so far: There are already a number of models that can be controlled by remote control (steering and drive)

Is there a list of parts to realize this? I have no Lego Technic parts more in my possession, so I have to order precisely items.

Thanks for help in advance

Like most of the Unimog RC Mod's mine has an XL motor for driving. but for me it was or to slow or it had not enough torque so i made a gearbox just above of the central dif. It is a 2 speed heavy duty gearbox just like the one of Sariel. this meant i had to put the stearing in the front axle instead of in the cabin and also the batery box is moved to the top of the truckbed so it is more stable

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Is there any way to control pneumatic valves with power functions? Has anyone ever made this?

I just upgrade to full RC when pneumatic continues to be used. I love pneumatics in techic models.

@thenextlegodesigner:

any informations regarding your 2 speed gearbox? How does ist switch the gears?

My unimog has enough torque at all wheels because of reduced gears in all 4 axles. But he has no speed.

P.S.:

Happy Christmas

IMG_8633.jpg

Edited by Draco

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Is there any way to control pneumatic valves with power functions? Has anyone ever made this?

LOTS of people have made motorized autovalves. Check Sariel's website for some examples.

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I don't know if this is really considered a MOD, but I turned my Unimog into a GBC module...

http://www.eurobrick...3

The only things that are not Unimog parts are the baseplates and the bricks that secure the model to them, a 1x4 brick to give the motor a studded mount point, and two of these to secure the frame around the slightly-wider-than-one-stud spring.

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Hello fellow unimogists. I would really appreciate if people could help me find:

:thumbup: 3 sided tipping bed instructions or pictures (Thank you kumbbl!)

:thumbup: a way to rc driving and steering in best way possible (Thank you kumbbl!)

:thumbdown: grit box and spreader instructions

:thumbup: how to order black wheel rims and sprockets (Thank you me :laugh: )

(thumbs down indicating this hasn't been helped with. I will edit them if they are helped with.)

If anyone helped with any of these things I will be so happy :thumbup::laugh:

Part 2:

Today I did some research on how to fix the leaky pneumatic small cylinder used in the frame of the claw. I realized that i was one of the lucky few that got faulty ones. I did some research finding out that id have to call up Lego customer service to receive a new pneumatic cylinder. called up, was greeted by a 2 minute wait, a very enthusiastic gentleman who was helpful kind and generous and ended with a pneumatic service pack (every pneumatic part from the unimog)

another extremely happy Lego customer service customer :thumbup::laugh:

Ending note:

Thank you all for reading and thanks in advance for helping!

This is my first "official" post so expect this content from me in the future!

Photos of my Unimog u400 coming soon

Edited by JVMCPlays

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Hello fellow unimogists. I would really appreciate if people could help me find:

:thumbdown: 3 sided tipping bed instructions or pictures

here is mine (as described in the linked postings it is strongly inspired by the solutions of eurobricks members barman and tripletschiee): http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1939279

here the detail photo pics: http://bricksafe.com...ide tilting bed

:thumbdown: a way to rc driving and steering in best way possible

do not know if it is the best possible way (probably not), but here is again mine: and if you want RC + tipping bed you have probably not another chance - at least you can not apply the typical approach shown in this thread... anyway, here is my approach... decide for yourself if it can satisfy your needs...

posting: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1970587 (and some before)

pics: http://bricksafe.com.../Remote Control

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LOTS of people have made motorized autovalves. Check Sariel's website for some examples.

In addition to autovalves, there are reasons to control pneumatic valves with PF functions manually, not automatically. I have created such a unimog with a combined electric regulator. Big and clunky, it could serve a purpose for some builds. You can use actuators to control LEGO pneumatic values.

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a video of my modified to power functions Unimog.

After a lot of tests i decided to usw a servo motor into the front axle for steering. The motor is invisible and has enormous power. Furthermore, the steer automatically returns to zero position. In order for the suspension has no limitations, a few modifications to the vehicle frame had to be made. Also, I have improved the coupling of the springs at the top and eliminates the bending. The shocks are no longer bending.

I used a xl motor for drive in addition to lot of instructions in this thread. Together with the reduction in all 4 portal axles, the Unimog has much torque.

In the front area of the vehicle frame I have installed an M engine for the front PTO. This motor is connected to an IR receiver together with the standard m-motor for pneumatics/rear-pto. If the yellow switch is set up for "pto" i can remote control the rear PTO too.

The snow shovel in the video only demonstrates the remote control function of the front PTO (i have not enough parts to build a nice shovel.... will be made in the future may be....)

Here is the youtube link:

http://youtu.be/i1eAXEolh60

Edited by Draco

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This is my take on the Unimogs they use in Dakar, I simply dub it the Unimog U400 Off-Road Support Truck. I revised the side mirror mounted lights to replicate those used by US-spec Freightliner Unimogs, while the wheels have been blacked out, my take on the cab mounted light bar inspired by the newer Unimog U423/U523. The winch attachment has been modified to cater for ramming-like bumper and it also has a tow hook mount for the winch, the lower bumper sees additional component for a "Road Armor" like bumper that simulates exposed stamped steel courtesy of the grey grille panels, I also loosened the small gear inside the winch as I discover that slows the release and recovery of the winch cable, the motor has been changed from M- to L-motor for more power. The main feature of this 'Mog is the custom bed with a large hatch that doubles as a loading ramp for the spare wheels and tires.

I started with the basic bed design and added panels on the second layer playing on the technic turn table as the mounting point for the wheels, I was inspired by the expedition style cages used on some Unimogs so I played on that part and replicated it to create a blacked out roof with mounting rails for the cargo area.

post-93242-0-46848600-1422199455_thumb.jpg

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Is there any way to control pneumatic valves with power functions? Has anyone ever made this?

I just upgrade to full RC when pneumatic continues to be used. I love pneumatics in techic models.

@thenextlegodesigner:

any informations regarding your 2 speed gearbox? How does ist switch the gears?

My unimog has enough torque at all wheels because of reduced gears in all 4 axles. But he has no speed.

P.S.:

Happy Christmas

IMG_8633.jpg

sorry its so late but i used a m motor to shift it. same as my TC6 car's gearbox witch i am planning to place on the forum this week.

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