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Just finished my MOG, have a few questions.

1. My "hand" part of the grabber doesn't open and close that easily, I think it might be the small pneumatic shock that is used in that part, anyone have any suggestions to loosen it up a bit? It works if I give it a little push with with my hand to open up. It closes fine by itself.

2. due to the location of the battery box, it tends to lean to that side of the truck , anyone else experience that ?

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I had the same two problems. I lived with the leaning, but I had to switch out the pneumatic shock on the grabber. Now it opens just fine.

Others have relocated the battery box to balance the truck. I thought about centering it in between the cab and the bed, I just haven't done it yet.

Mike

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I just added a servo motor for steering, for those that have done that did you have any trouble getting the car to be perfectly aligned straight? I feel like it is off by one tooth on the rack gear, but I can't get to it easily so I may leave it for now. Also Can someone post pictures any 2-speed gearboxes they may have adapted to the Unimog? I am looking to implement that next.

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I thought I would share my ugly, but functional RC motor powered air compressor. it features an air tank, manometer and a RC buggy motor. Makes the pneumatic functions faster and more fun for my impatient 4 year old son :)

The air tank gets to abotu 50 psi in just shy of a minute.

I would love to make it quick and easy to remove , but I haven't mastered an easy way to connect and reconnect those air hoses to the valves, any tips on that ?

unimog_air_compressor.jpg

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I suggest you use some old, used light grey tubing. The new blue tubing is made of a different material which is much harder to stretch, therefore much harder to put on and take off.

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anyone shove a speed gearbox in this truck without modifiying the existing functions? i saw some post from brathendel but that requires a lot of modding to the chassis and eliminates the rear functions

Edited by kevman

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@kevman,

i think i have almost what you are searching for. I have modified the unimog with RC-control, two gear automatic, steering, while keeping all other functions. Also the design is preserved as much as possible. There are though many modifications.

- Steering is done by an M-motor located at the front axle with a gear 1:9 and a friction clutch. This location is better for a low balance point and there is no problem with the loose force transmission when the motor is placed in the driving cab.

- Two gear automatic drive. The fast gear is driven by an M-motor. If the rotation speed gets too low, an XL-motor takes over the driving with low transmission ratio. A freewheeling mechanism decouples the XL-motor in case of fast velocity. It can climb up to 100% slope. It is necessary a hand made part. Cut a half long bush in two parts and polish them with sand paper down to 1.2mm thickness (see photo). It makes a well defined friction at the freewheeling unit.

- Lockable middle differential gear. The cross-country mobility is much better if the middle differential gear is blocked. Alasdair Ryan suggested that solution at page 36. Unfortunately the unit with lock is one stud too long. so it need a bigger modification in the center box of the unimog. I also reinforced the differential with a fourth gear wheel. Then it stands more than twice the force.

- The left back wheel suspension is half a stud higher than the right one to balance out the weight of the battery box.

- LED lights front and rear

img_0371.jpg

img_0412.jpg

img_0505.jpg

k800_img_0505.jpg

k800_img_0503.jpg

http://www.brickshel...mog/Unimog2.mpd

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Markus53 that looks pretty interesting. I started working on the chassis design from Stefan_bentula_pendula and am looking to implement that.

I am definitely intrigued by what you have setup, the auto trans sounds interesting. I was wondering what the MPD file is that you linked ?

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kevman, the mpd-file is created in LDRAW. I am not yet able to convert it in an LDD. The mpd-file includes the complete model.

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kevman, the mpd-file is created in LDRAW. I am not yet able to convert it in an LDD. The mpd-file includes the complete model.

Thanks I was able to get it open.

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Hey all,

Having some trouble maybe you can help. I have tried two methods of integrating the servo motor for steering, one from Pat-Ard which is outlned in post 1322 here

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1300#entry1496377

And then I also tried a method done by Jovel in post 1425

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1425#entry1617453

In both cases the steering seems to skip on me and the wheels become misaligned. I maybe missing something in my setup. I made the front steering without the friction pins so it turns freely by hand, but somehow ends up skipping with the servo.

Any pics of your servo steering setup would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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Hey all,

Having some trouble maybe you can help. I have tried two methods of integrating the servo motor for steering, one from Pat-Ard which is outlned in post 1322 here

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1300#entry1496377

And then I also tried a method done by Jovel in post 1425

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1425#entry1617453

In both cases the steering seems to skip on me and the wheels become misaligned. I maybe missing something in my setup. I made the front steering without the friction pins so it turns freely by hand, but somehow ends up skipping with the servo.

Any pics of your servo steering setup would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

This is likely down to the force required to turn it by hand which is quite excessive. I'd recommend using the alternative steering design made by one of the geniuses on here which will work much better with motors.

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So I build the front steering and suspension from LPE power and while it is fantastic for playabilty, it simply did not work for motorization. The Servo motor was unable to turn the unimog. So back to the drawing board...

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Lack of parts for my Grazi build I took out my Mog and tried some minor mods on it!

Aligned the front axle etc.

Those PP wheels are da*n big! :)

0AAC38EB-24AD-4F44-9EDE-67E84A232A7B_zpszfqdx005.jpg

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Un saluto a tutti. Ho scoperto lego technik regalandoli a mio figlio nel 2013.

Mi sono appassionato all'Unimog e ho fatto le seguenti modifiche/miglioramenti:

- 3 assi indipendenti 6x6

- inserimento frizione di blocco diff. centrale

- motore XL sulla trazione

- sterzo con motore, frizione e riduzione sull'asse

- telecomando

- serbatoio aria ecc.

Ciao

Luca

post-118391-0-06136400-1388798729_thumb.jpg

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Si prega di provare a scrivere in inglese, perĂ², e avere un buon tempo sul forum!

Wow, your unimog looks very cool, 'lucapif'! Great job fitting all the RC functions in such a small space. :thumbup:

You can go introduce yourself in the 'Hello! My name is...' forum.

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Si prega di provare a scrivere in inglese, perĂ², e avere un buon tempo sul forum!

Wow, your unimog looks very cool, 'lucapif'! Great job fitting all the RC functions in such a small space. :thumbup:

You can go introduce yourself in the 'Hello! My name is...' forum.

sorry I do not speak English and I have to use google translated

Luca

ey82.jpg

jofi.jpg

aklv.jpg

x5be.jpg

Edited by lucapif

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Hello,

Wanted to introduce my self and ask for information. I'm 79 and just became acquainted with Technic LEGOs at Christmas time after seeing a LEGO user group display in a nearby mall. Fell in love with the 8110 Unimog and immediately bought one. I have read the entire contents of this forum and realize I want to "PF" it as I build it. Prior to this time I've never had any experience with or knowledge about LEGOs. But first a general question:

What do the abbreviations PPTO, PPF, and S@H stand for? I finally figured out what LA and HOG stand for. No too impressed with the HOG abbreviation, however.

My main question is this: Is there a place where I can find a list of all motors and parts needed for PFing the Unimog? I'm thinking there must be an "Ultimate 8110" sort of rendition somewhere which would have PDF instructions and a list of extra parts needed. I see that others have asked this same sort of question but haven't gotten an answer that is completely helpful. I've looked at many videos on YouTube but still remain perplexed about how to make the changes needed. Perhaps I'm just not finding the right spot for what I have in mind. Would appreciate helpful directions as I would rather not purchace unrequired parts or incorrect parts.

And one comment: If the pneumatic tubing is intended to represent hydraulic lines, why is the tubing grey and blue? Is there a source for black tubing which would make the final assembly look less toylike?

Many thanks for your help.

Roger Bush

Central Texas

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Hello,

Wanted to introduce my self and ask for information. I'm 79 and just became acquainted with Technic LEGOs at Christmas time after seeing a LEGO user group display in a nearby mall. Fell in love with the 8110 Unimog and immediately bought one. I have read the entire contents of this forum and realize I want to "PF" it as I build it. Prior to this time I've never had any experience with or knowledge about LEGOs. But first a general question:

What do the abbreviations PPTO, PPF, and S@H stand for? I finally figured out what LA and HOG stand for. No too impressed with the HOG abbreviation, however.

My main question is this: Is there a place where I can find a list of all motors and parts needed for PFing the Unimog? I'm thinking there must be an "Ultimate 8110" sort of rendition somewhere which would have PDF instructions and a list of extra parts needed. I see that others have asked this same sort of question but haven't gotten an answer that is completely helpful. I've looked at many videos on YouTube but still remain perplexed about how to make the changes needed. Perhaps I'm just not finding the right spot for what I have in mind. Would appreciate helpful directions as I would rather not purchace unrequired parts or incorrect parts.

And one comment: If the pneumatic tubing is intended to represent hydraulic lines, why is the tubing grey and blue? Is there a source for black tubing which would make the final assembly look less toylike?

Many thanks for your help.

Roger Bush

Central Texas

Welcome to Eurobricks! i believe PPTO stands for Pneumatic Power Take Off. I'm not sure what PPF is but someone more qualified can probably answer that. S@H is the official Lego site http://shop.lego.com/en-US/#shopxlink

I don't believe there is any Ultimate 8110 although there are many RC mods and this truck is easliy motorized

Here is one video to help you RC it

Hope that helps!

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He

Hello,

Wanted to introduce my self and ask for information. I'm 79 and just became acquainted with Technic LEGOs at Christmas time after seeing a LEGO user group display in a nearby mall. Fell in love with the 8110 Unimog and immediately bought one. I have read the entire contents of this forum and realize I want to "PF" it as I build it. Prior to this time I've never had any experience with or knowledge about LEGOs. But first a general question:

What do the abbreviations PPTO, PPF, and S@H stand for? I finally figured out what LA and HOG stand for. No too impressed with the HOG abbreviation, however.

My main question is this: Is there a place where I can find a list of all motors and parts needed for PFing the Unimog? I'm thinking there must be an "Ultimate 8110" sort of rendition somewhere which would have PDF instructions and a list of extra parts needed. I see that others have asked this same sort of question but haven't gotten an answer that is completely helpful. I've looked at many videos on YouTube but still remain perplexed about how to make the changes needed. Perhaps I'm just not finding the right spot for what I have in mind. Would appreciate helpful directions as I would rather not purchace unrequired parts or incorrect parts.

And one comment: If the pneumatic tubing is intended to represent hydraulic lines, why is the tubing grey and blue? Is there a source for black tubing which would make the final assembly look less toylike?

Many thanks for your help.

Roger Bush

Central Texas

Welcome to EuroBricks Longhorn!

It's great to see new members and people new to Technic. You kind of remind me of my grandpa ('88) who got his first Lego set for Christmas, the Sopwith Camel.

To answer some of your questions: The pneumatic tubing is colored to make the building process easier. Blue stands for basic undirected airflow within the system up to where a valve comes to enable a function. Black and grey tell you wether the air goes to the top or bottom inlet of the piston. I got myself additional silicon tubing from ebay: 4mm wide, 2mm opening, wall strength 1mm.

To acquire the parts for making the Unimog remote controlled (driving), turn to S@H (official Lego online shop or BrickLink, which is an unofficial marketplace for Lego parts new and used). You would need an L-Motor for propulsion and a M-Motor or Servo for steering. The M-Motor would sit upright in the cabin and be geared down, the Servo on the front axle. Than you need an IR-Receiver, probably 3 short extension wires and the IR-Remote. I would get the electric parts from Lego and the other parts from BrickLink, though there is no list for the required parts. you also might want to try nicjasno's modded front axle for better steering.

Anyway, enjoy your Unimog. It is the best set owned so far, and i have quite a few flagships.

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I would recommend getting an XL motor for drive because I actually just tried my L motor in the a unimog and it has barely any power to move on brand new batteries

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- Two gear automatic drive. The fast gear is driven by an M-motor. If the rotation speed gets too low, an XL-motor takes over the driving with low transmission ratio. A freewheeling mechanism decouples the XL-motor in case of fast velocity. It can climb up to 100% slope. It is necessary a hand made part. Cut a half long bush in two parts and polish them with sand paper down to 1.2mm thickness (see photo). It makes a well defined friction at the freewheeling unit.

- Lockable middle differential gear. The cross-country mobility is much better if the middle differential gear is blocked. Alasdair Ryan suggested that solution at page 36. Unfortunately the unit with lock is one stud too long. so it need a bigger modification in the center box of the unimog. I also reinforced the differential with a fourth gear wheel. Then it stands more than twice the force.

Hi Markus,

I've built your Unimog (very interesting modification :thumbup: ), but I've some problems with the functions. I would send you a message to describe the problem, but your message box seems not to work. Can you send me a message instead, then I can explain the exact problems. Sorry, my english is very poor, that's why I'll describe the problems in german.

Greetings

Alex

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I would recommend getting an XL motor for drive because I actually just tried my L motor in the a unimog and it has barely any power to move on brand new batteries

I put an L motor from 9398 to Unimog (under the bed) just a couple of days ago and it works quite well. Did you remember gear down the portal axles (3:1)? With that it's still quite fast (certainly not a crawler) and cannot climb much. I'm planning to put 25:9 gearing to the rear (will leave room in front for the servo, and I'm also avoiding putting too much torque to the universal joints there). The central diff should take care of speed / torque distribution, right? Of course XL would have more power (and maybe no need for gearing it further down?).

Edited by arik

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So I build the front steering and suspension from LPE power and while it is fantastic for playabilty, it simply did not work for motorization. The Servo motor was unable to turn the unimog. So back to the drawing board...

Where did you mount the servo?

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