LEGO Power Function Train Sets

[Tearloch33]

I recently bought the LEGO train motor (#8866) from their website, along with the Power Function extension cord (#8886) that is required based on their product description, in order to convert a BNSF GP-38 to Power Functions. My issues started when I realized that the #8866 motor will not work on a standard train base plate since the connecting plate on the extension cord (from motor to IR reciever) has 2 studs and the standard PF electrical connection on top of the plate. When connected, the studs and electrical connection extend above the top of the integrated boogie plate on the #8866 train motor. The studs catch on the underside of the train base, essentially locking it in place and preventing it from turning as the train goes into a turn, causing derailments. I inquired about buying the train motor that is included with the recent Cargo Train (#7939) set and the Passenger Train (#7938) set, but LEGO has told me they are not available for individual purchase. That motor, I was told by LEGO, has more power and torque compared to the #8866 motor, as well as having an intergrated extension cable (so it does not have the rotation issue). It is a far superior product, in my opinion. What I was most shocked about was that LEGO seems to have no idea about the issue I brought up about the functionality of their product as they advertise it. I hope their Customer Service folks actually try to duplicate my issue.

Has anyone else encountered this isse in trying to use the #8866 train motor as it is advertised by LEGO?

[Andy Glascott]

Has anyone else encountered this isse in trying to use the #8866 train motor as it is advertised by LEGO?

Oh yes! I bought the same motor to power a MOC steam loco, and decided to put the motor in a separate coach/wagon rather than try and cram the motor and battery box into the tender. I ended up trying all sorts of combinations of long (28 to 32 stud) wagons with the motor and a bogie and to avoid the snagging issue have settled on putting the motor in one wagon with the battery box above it to help with traction and the IR sensor in another unit. I'm not impressed.

I'm also a bit miffed as this has highlighted the uneven nature of my 9v track on my 3-level layout, and the PF motor isn't all that happy with the gradient changes, but that's my building fault.....

Andy

Edited January 25, 2011 by Andy Glascott

[AndyC]

Could you resolve it by putting an old 9V power cable from the motor and then connect that to a PF extension cable within the train? I'm gueing that would be cheaper than getting a PF train motor from Bricklink.

[Andy Glascott]

Could you resolve it by putting an old 9V power cable from the motor and then connect that to a PF extension cable within the train? I'm gueing that would be cheaper than getting a PF train motor from Bricklink.

That does work, but it adds extra wiring which then needs to be hidden etc.

[Snapshot]

Could you resolve it by putting an old 9V power cable from the motor and then connect that to a PF extension cable within the train? I'm gueing that would be cheaper than getting a PF train motor from Bricklink.

That's what I do although, as Andy says, it does mean there's extra wiring to fit inside whatever you're building.

[hoeij]

I recently bought the LEGO train motor (#8866) from their website, along with the Power Function extension cord (#8886) that is required based on their product description, in order to convert a BNSF GP-38 to Power Functions. My issues started when I realized that the #8866 motor will not work on a standard train base plate since the connecting plate on the extension cord (from motor to IR reciever) has 2 studs and the standard PF electrical connection on top of the plate. When connected, the studs and electrical connection extend above the top of the integrated boogie plate on the #8866 train motor. The studs catch on the underside of the train base, essentially locking it in place and preventing it from turning as the train goes into a turn, causing derailments.

Does it matter which hole in the base plate the motor is attached to? The underside of the base plate has a part that is flat, a part where studs can't attach to. This flat part is there so that the studs (on top of the power cable that is connected to the motor) can slide under the base plate.

I'm puzzled why this sliding is not working?

Experts: does this work for some trains and not for others? Or is this an issue with that motor for pretty much any train?

[Snapshot]

Does it matter which hole in the base plate the motor is attached to? The underside of the base plate has a part that is flat, a part where studs can't attach to. This flat part is there so that the studs (on top of the power cable that is connected to the motor) can slide under the base plate.

I'm puzzled why this sliding is not working?

Experts: does this work for some trains and not for others? Or is this an issue with that motor for pretty much any train?

I think it's always an issue. The PF connector is thicker than the old 9V one and fouls the bottom of the baseplate.

[JopieK]

Of course that is not a very handy option, but it will work. Cut the old wire and the new wire in half and attach the outer cables of the new wire to the two wires of the old cable. Heat shrinking tube and/or hot glue and voila :)

[hoeij]

Of course that is not a very handy option, but it will work. Cut the old wire and the new wire in half and attach the outer cables of the new wire to the two wires of the old cable. Heat shrinking tube and/or hot glue and voila :)

If you have a lot of trains, and you cut and reconnect wires this way, it saves money because you only need to buy half as many cables (I did this for some of the wires for the lights in my 9V trains).

[hoeij]

I think it's always an issue. The PF connector is thicker than the old 9V one and fouls the bottom of the baseplate.

I see the problem, this PF connector is a tiny little bit thicker and longer than the old 9V connector, but that's enough to cause problems.

It's surprising that lego is still selling this motor (instead of the much better motor that sits in the current train sets).

To the original poster, I would ask lego for a refund for your motor, and then buy the new motor from bricklink. There's one listed for $15 (that's without the wheels) (actually, to get these wheels, you probably have to keep the motor you bought from lego.com).

Note that this new motor doesn't just fit better, it also runs much better, so you'll enjoy your train more if you have that motor in it.

PS. In case you're new to bricklink, the motor that you want is this one:

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x1688a

PS 2. I have both the old and the new motor, and compared them side by side. Given the same voltage, the new motor is about twice as strong. This allows you to pull longer trains, and moreover, it also gives you much better speed control. A cargo train needs to be able to go slowly without stopping in curves. The old motor can't do that, and the new one can. Batteries will also last a lot longer with the new motor. You definitely will like your cargo train much better if it has the new motor in it. It's really a shame that lego is still selling the old one instead of the new one.

Edited January 26, 2011 by hoeij

[Tearloch33]

Does it matter which hole in the base plate the motor is attached to? The underside of the base plate has a part that is flat, a part where studs can't attach to. This flat part is there so that the studs (on top of the power cable that is connected to the motor) can slide under the base plate.

I'm puzzled why this sliding is not working?

Experts: does this work for some trains and not for others? Or is this an issue with that motor for pretty much any train?

My initial attempt was using the 8866 motor on the Cargo Train from set 7939. That is where the binding occurred. Last night I tried it out on the BNSF GP-38, and it worked. The kicker is that in does depend on the hole in the base that the boogie plate is attached to. On the Cargo Train, it connects to a different hole, I think due to the BNSF train having an extension past the normal base plate. So it does work in some instances, but not all. I did recommend to LEGO to modify the power function extension cable to be like a flat tile on one end to prevent this issue, since I can't think of a single instance where you would need to add an electrical connection to the truck on the motor. Anyway, hadn't tried it on the BNSF since it still requires mods to get the battery box and IR reciever into the 4 stud wide body. I think I plan to make decals to cover the sides of the battery box and IR reciever. Will post pics once I get going on it. Thanks for the advice.

I see the problem, this PF connector is a tiny little bit thicker and longer than the old 9V connector, but that's enough to cause problems.

It's surprising that lego is still selling this motor (instead of the much better motor that sits in the current train sets).

To the original poster, I would ask lego for a refund for your motor, and then buy the new motor from bricklink. There's one listed for $15 (that's without the wheels) (actually, to get these wheels, you probably have to keep the motor you bought from lego.com).

Note that this new motor doesn't just fit better, it also runs much better, so you'll enjoy your train more if you have that motor in it.

PS. In case you're new to bricklink, the motor that you want is this one:

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x1688a

PS 2. I have both the old and the new motor, and compared them side by side. Given the same voltage, the new motor is about twice as strong. This allows you to pull longer trains, and moreover, it also gives you much better speed control. A cargo train needs to be able to go slowly without stopping in curves. The old motor can't do that, and the new one can. Batteries will also last a lot longer with the new motor. You definitely will like your cargo train much better if it has the new motor in it. It's really a shame that lego is still selling the old one instead of the new one.

I was a bit shocked when Lego told me that the new motor not only has more power and torque, but draws less current. So that supports what you just said. I too wonder (and asked) why they still sell an inferior product. But after multiple emails with Lego, they are sending me a new motor from the cargo train to shut me up, I guess. I did find them on BrickLink after I started all this, so that is where I will go from now on until they start selling the new one.

Has anyone else converted a standard BNSF train to PF with the motor and reciever in the engine? I would love to see ideas on how to hide the 4 stud wide battery and reciever in the 4 stud wide body.

[Toastie]

... Has anyone else converted a standard BNSF train to PF with the motor and reciever in the engine? I would love to see ideas on how to hide the 4 stud wide battery and reciever in the 4 stud wide body.

Hi there,

I guess even purists might consider for a moment going along with this - TLC uses stickers all over the place - so you could try and get decently colored adhesive tape and stick it onto the receiver/battery. I did that on my BR23 PF conversion; Ben uses a 7 wide base, the tender coal compartment is 4 wide. No chance to get PF stuff in there other than - well chea(s)ti(cky tape)ing. But: It is fully removable, no harm is done to the PF stuff - and it works reasonably.

Regards,

Thorsten

[legoboy3998]

Has anyone else converted a standard BNSF train to PF with the motor and reciever in the engine? I would love to see ideas on how to hide the 4 stud wide battery and reciever in the 4 stud wide body.

I have a GP38 built very similar to the BNSF one with two of the 8666 motors on it one with the 9V wire (to reverse it) and theother with the PF wire. I dont have any troble with it locking up because with the added ladder and spacer brick to the outer end of the truck it sets it back enough to not catch on the stud undersides. I also added the PF battery box to that locomotive and used custom stickers to cover it. You can see pics on My Flickr

[Tearloch33]

I have a GP38 built very similar to the BNSF one with two of the 8666 motors on it one with the 9V wire (to reverse it) and theother with the PF wire. I dont have any troble with it locking up because with the added ladder and spacer brick to the outer end of the truck it sets it back enough to not catch on the stud undersides. I also added the PF battery box to that locomotive and used custom stickers to cover it. You can see pics on My Flickr

Thanks. That is pretty much what I was planning on doing with mine. I was thinking of moving the IR receiver back two studs from where you have it, and using the empty cab for wires and probably mount it high enough to route the cables under it, but for the most part, same idea. Any ideas on making an on/off "button" for the battery? I was thinking of using a technic axle connected to a fan blade on top that sits on the on/off switch.

[roamingstop]

Has anyone else converted a standard BNSF train to PF with the motor and reciever in the engine? I would love to see ideas on how to hide the 4 stud wide battery and reciever in the 4 stud wide body.

Build a B unit and hide it in the bodywork - possibly using what appears to be a trick of the 10219 maersk - i.e. a flat plate 12x4 with studs only along the side... mounted at right angles to cover the grey colour of the battery pack. It should work and look fine - if they exist in Yellow.

[legoboy3998]

Thanks. That is pretty much what I was planning on doing with mine. I was thinking of moving the IR receiver back two studs from where you have it, and using the empty cab for wires and probably mount it high enough to route the cables under it, but for the most part, same idea. Any ideas on making an on/off "button" for the battery? I was thinking of using a technic axle connected to a fan blade on top that sits on the on/off switch.

For the on/off switch, I just remove one roof plate and press the button on the battery by hand, works fine for me. I have tweaked the wiring from that picture. Now it goes a extension wire from the battery to a stack behind the cab which contains the IR reciever wire and lights (so the lights are on when the battery is on). From the IR reciever there is an extension wire to another stack behind the cab which contains the two motor wires (I used the short PF extension wire with the old 9V end to connect the old 9V wire fot the second motor. I now am adding a sound module to the locomotive which provides primemover sound and horn and bell, it will be connected with a PF extension wire with the 9V end to the first stack of connectors comming from the battery so it is always powered. Ill post pictures once I get the connection soldered.

Sal

WFB, WI

[Tearloch33]

For the on/off switch, I just remove one roof plate and press the button on the battery by hand, works fine for me. I have tweaked the wiring from that picture. Now it goes a extension wire from the battery to a stack behind the cab which contains the IR reciever wire and lights (so the lights are on when the battery is on). From the IR reciever there is an extension wire to another stack behind the cab which contains the two motor wires (I used the short PF extension wire with the old 9V end to connect the old 9V wire fot the second motor. I now am adding a sound module to the locomotive which provides primemover sound and horn and bell, it will be connected with a PF extension wire with the 9V end to the first stack of connectors comming from the battery so it is always powered. Ill post pictures once I get the connection soldered.

Sal

WFB, WI

I finally started experimenting last night, and I actually was able to come up with a "push button" for the on/off switch identical to the one used on the 7939 cargo train (it sits directly under one of the fan blades, so you just push down on it), although you cannot see the lights on the battery. To charge it, I have to build in a removable section of the roof, but only a small one on the rear to go with the removable back plate. Just got my pack of decal paper in the mail, so next step is covering the battery box and IR reciever, and getting a few misc. parts to complete the mod. I will post pics soon, and hopefully make directions that step through the modification, and any other "improvements" I make.