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locoworks

Couplings

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i have the new passenger set, and when it trys to get above speed step 4 on the loop of track the coaches get left behind by the drive unit!! is this the norm? i can't believe that effectively 2 coaches is too much for the couplings to have enough power to stay coupled. also, do the new couplings connect to the swivelly ones on the 9v trains?? and if not is the coupling buffer unit a direct swap onto the older stock??

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All the magnetic couplings are compatible (old and new).

I have a few that don't stay connected in a long train - both old and new types.

Two tips :classic:

- the new ones have studs on, so a plate can be used to hold them together.

- the old ones can be removed from the buffer beam. A 1x1/2x6 technic liftarm can be used to connect the wagons. If you're buying used parts from bricklink this is useful because the bufferbeams sell separately from the magnets, and are reasonably cheap.

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Well I have the coupling problems with some of my new cars from the new cargo train. I believe it's normal and when this occurs it needs to be re-coupled several times until it stays good together. And yes they work with normal 9 volt era magnets

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The only time I had a problem was when I had too much weight in the back, or when I try to accelerated too quickly.

But I've been pondering switching to technic coupling anyway, just to be more realistic (for some reason).

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i have the new passenger set, and when it trys to get above speed step 4 on the loop of track the coaches get left behind by the drive unit!! is this the norm? i can't believe that effectively 2 coaches is too much for the couplings to have enough power to stay coupled. also, do the new couplings connect to the swivelly ones on the 9v trains?? and if not is the coupling buffer unit a direct swap onto the older stock??

Sometimes you have to try a couple of times before they connect properly (the magnet inside it doesn't always turn the right way in the first try).

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Sometimes you have to try a couple of times before they connect properly (the magnet inside it doesn't always turn the right way in the first try).

ok, i didn't realise the magnet could turn!! i thought it was fixed N-S horizontally so from above the same pole was always on the same side...

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ok, i didn't realise the magnet could turn!! i thought it was fixed N-S horizontally so from above the same pole was always on the same side...

If you hold a fridge magnet close to your coupling and keep the coupling from swivelling you can make the magnet turn somersaults inside the coupling, you can hear this.

Edited by Pet-Lego

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The only time I had a problem was when I had too much weight in the back, or when I try to accelerated too quickly.

But I've been pondering switching to technic coupling anyway, just to be more realistic (for some reason).

I have more problems with coupling detachment because I run heavy trains.

In this picture the two similar wagons have a 1x5 liftarm and pegs instead of the couplings.

Coupling magnets will weaken over time. It is possible to strengthen them by stroking them with a more powerful magnet, but the plastic surround might prevent this being very effective. I might go for liftarms for the whole train because a train of 8 wagons detached in 2 different places on different occasions. I would have used plates or tiles on the new couplings but I don't find the buffer beams compatible with the scale I build to, so I'll keep them on the train sets rather than using them in MOCs. Emerald night couplings have a tube that protrudes too low too. The later ones have been trimmed so they don't foul the crossing rails on the points.

I haven't found attachment problems with either old or new types. Sometimes repeat shunting is necessary to get the magnets in the right range or orientation but that was always the case way back into the 1970s with red and blue magnets!

Using sections of the chain with a stud on each end would look the best for old wagons but would not be nearly strong enough!

Mark

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