REVIEW: 7938 Passenger Train

[Carefree_Dude]

You don't need a second motor if you improve traction (see one of the other threads here on how to do that).

That's probably the problem. I tossed my cargo train in the front instead, and it just zoomed around the track. My PF super chief pulled it just fine too (plus a few Santa Fe cars). They are heavier than the passenger.

[hoeij]

I've now purchased two of these sets. Including the engine, the train is now 6 cars long. It pulls okay using only one motor, but slows down around corners. I'm thinking about adding another motor into the last car, which should help it a lot.

Wait, you were the one that wrote that if you have the RC wheels with the clear traction bands, then you get much more traction! Anyhow, putting one PF train motor in the front, and one in the back of the train, that causes problems when they are on different speed-settings, and it's hard to see how you can avoid this problem if the two PF motors are not electrically connected.

It would be easier to put both motors in the same car, and connect both to the same power supply, that way they'll always get the same voltage. That way you'll also have a spare battery box and PF receiver, surely those will be useful for something else.

Trains will always slow down in curves because a DC motor always slows down a little bit when you put an additional load on it (while keeping voltage the same). If your layout is lots of curves, you may want 2 motors to ease the load. If you have a lot of straights, it'll probably run just fine on one motor.

I also bought two of this set. It was a relatively affordable way to get some PF parts. The second one is still in the box. However it does give me the utter irrits that you get no straight track.

Right. The dollar value of the curved track is essentially zero. By the time you buy enough straight track for a reasonable layout (annoyingly you can't buy straights without buying an equal number of curves) you'll have lots of curved track that you'll never use.

I sold 32 curved track on eBay, but the only way to get more than essentially zero dollars for it, is to also include some useful stuff (I added some straights and switch track to the listing to get a price that's worth the effort). I still have more curved track that I want to get rid off though.

At the moment, straight 9V track is very expensive, but RC track is not cheap either. Curves (both for RC and 9V) have a value very close to $0, but for each 8 straights RC you can't really avoid spending $16.

[Carefree_Dude]

Wait, you were the one that wrote that if you have the RC wheels with the clear traction bands, then you get much more traction! Anyhow, putting one PF train motor in the front, and one in the back of the train, that causes problems when they are on different speed-settings, and it's hard to see how you can avoid this problem if the two PF motors are not electrically connected.

It would be easier to put both motors in the same car, and connect both to the same power supply, that way they'll always get the same voltage. That way you'll also have a spare battery box and PF receiver, surely those will be useful for something else.

Trains will always slow down in curves because a DC motor always slows down a little bit when you put an additional load on it (while keeping voltage the same). If your layout is lots of curves, you may want 2 motors to ease the load. If you have a lot of straights, it'll probably run just fine on one motor.

Right. The dollar value of the curved track is essentially zero. By the time you buy enough straight track for a reasonable layout (annoyingly you can't buy straights without buying an equal number of curves) you'll have lots of curved track that you'll never use.

I sold 32 curved track on eBay, but the only way to get more than essentially zero dollars for it, is to also include some useful stuff (I added some straights and switch track to the listing to get a price that's worth the effort). I still have more curved track that I want to get rid off though.

At the moment, straight 9V track is very expensive, but RC track is not cheap either. Curves (both for RC and 9V) have a value very close to $0, but for each 8 straights RC you can't really avoid spending $16.

you do get more traction with the clear bands. Its just still hard to pull heavy cars with a light engine. I'm trying some different O-rings to see if it helps without adding weight to the engine.

Also, you can buy straights. Contact lego using the replacement part form, and you can buy straights only that way.

[hoeij]

you do get more traction with the clear bands. Its just still hard to pull heavy cars with a light engine. I'm trying some different O-rings to see if it helps without adding weight to the engine.

Also, you can buy straights. Contact lego using the replacement part form, and you can buy straights only that way.

Your layout, does it have more curves than straights? If it has more curves, I'd try to put two motors in the engine. The amount of force it takes to go through say a 180-degree curve is easily double of what it takes to go over straights.

In the replacement part form, the maximum number of straights I can get that way is 8. If I try more then it says:

"Quantity for the selected part exceeds the quantity in this set"

If I can only get 8 straight RC tracks, then I'd save only a few dollars at the most, not really worth the effort (my layout at the local train show used 200 straight 12V and 300 straight 9V track, so 8 pieces more isn't going to make a big difference).

[hoeij]

I've now purchased two of these sets. Including the engine, the train is now 6 cars long. It pulls okay using only one motor, but slows down around corners. I'm thinking about adding another motor into the last car, which should help it a lot.

By the way, do you have two 3-car trains connected into one train (if so, how did you connect them?) or did you rebuild two end-cars to make them look like middle-cars?

[Carefree_Dude]

By the way, do you have two 3-car trains connected into one train (if so, how did you connect them?) or did you rebuild two end-cars to make them look like middle-cars?

I'll take a picture later.

Basically, I rebuilt the two end cars to have couplings in both front and back, rather than just the back. Then, I have 4 cars (dining, passenger, recreation, sleeping) in between them. I'm currently waiting for a few parts to finish the sleeping car to arrive.

Edited September 3, 2010 by Goldenmasamune

[StephanSz]

You mention that one motor is strong enough to pull the 5 cars. The motor has lots of torque. About traction, does your train have the gray or the clear traction bands? (people have complained about the traction of the gray bands, but have been very happy with the clear traction bands).

I've got the clear bands. With full batteries everything runs fine, but it looses grip when the batteries become less powerful :(

Haven't noticed a difference in traction between the clear and grey bands, but it will make an interesting experiment for tonight!

[wtorbeyns]

The new passenger train resembles the Alstom built trains used by Arriva in Denmark. Except for the color, obviously and the fact that the Arriva trains have doors...

edit:

There is also some resemblance to the Siemens built DMU's operated by DSB. Here the color is more or less right, but again: the DSB train has doors. Still looking for a full scale example without doors that could have inspired the design of 7938...

Edited August 31, 2010 by wtorbeyns

[LegoFreak5]

It's actually the best train set I ever had.

[Legoist]

Still looking for a full scale example without doors that could have inspired the design of 7938...

Isn't that going to be a little hard?

[Carefree_Dude]

Turns out my problem was bad batteries. After a fresh change, all 6 cars were pulled fast around the track with no slow down. In fact, I had to slow the train down myself around the curve for fear of derailment. I'm gonna have to buy more rechargeable battery packs. I only own two so far (one for my 7898, one for my emerald night).

After I get more money, I'm going to add doors to the train. They will have to be brick doors, as the train wont allow for standard size lego doors.

Holy crap! with the fresh batteries, the passenger engine can not only pull the 5 passenger cars with ease, but also the 5 santa fe cars as well!!!

Edited August 31, 2010 by Goldenmasamune

[wtorbeyns]

Isn't that going to be a little hard?

We went on holiday to Denmark this summer and I saw one of the Arriva trains in real live. I think it's very likely that this time the Lego designers found their inspiration very close to home. The large windows are a very prominent feature that the Arriva DMU (and also of the DSB DMU) share with the new passenger train.

So the new passenger train is probably not a high speed, long distance train, but a commuter train. No need for additional coaches, in fact: with 3 cars, this train is already 1 car longer then most EMU's in commuter service. But it would be prototypical to connect multiple EMU's in one train.

[pinioncorp]

... But it would be prototypical to connect multiple EMU's in one train.

Too bad you can't! There's no coupler on the front.

[hoeij]

Too bad you can't! There's no coupler on the front.

That sounds like a challenge... Any takers?

[Carefree_Dude]

That sounds like a challenge... Any takers?

I've already done it.

Edited September 3, 2010 by Goldenmasamune

[jamzee]

Hi everyone

Great review - I'm trying to work out if PF lights can be added (to the front). The lamps seem to be held in place by an unusual white brick. Does anyone know if you can get the light bulb PF pieces to the lamps?

Thanks for any advice...

[pinioncorp]

Yes, you can. The wiring is tight but the white brick has holes in the forward facing studs - the perfect shape to slide the PF lights into.

[jamzee]

Super, thanks Pinioncorp, have you managed to get the PF lights in ok? I can't quite see how they'll fit in the white block that holds the clear lamps although I can see the holes in the front-facing area of the piece, I wonder if the sides of the middle part are open? If anyone has any pics of this I'd hugely appreciate it - I hope this set is a favourite amongst us train fans, especially as a MISB 7740 (yes really) has just gone on ebay for £1,551!

Btw, your review re where are the lady minifig's clothes is v.funny!

Edited September 5, 2010 by jamzee

[Bachus]

Right now this set costs only €79,95 in Holland (bol.com)

[LegoSjaak]

Right now this set costs only €79,95 in Holland (bol.com)

Jee..zag het..en ik vond 86,- euro al weinig bij webgigant.nl al ie ie daar nu ook al duurder geworden...!!

[LegoSjaak]

Right now this set costs only €79,95 in Holland (bol.com)

I just ordered this set for only Eur 81,94 incl post an package (delivery) so that is véry cheap.... Bol.com offered this set for a very low price... Now i will have 2 sets....and i already ordered parts for 2 passengercars... zo, that wil be 2 longer trains... !!!

Maybe i sell parts/cars, but maybe i'll keep them all...like this train, though it doesn't have doors....!!

Greetz, LegoSjaak

[pinioncorp]

...like this train, though it doesn't have doors....!!

I admit, some doors would have been nice. You can't use the standard train doors because they're too tall, and really would look out of place. But you can emulate the Emerald Night doors easily with few parts, all easily aquired on bricklink for a few coins. When the doors are shut, it looks practically the same, save for the door hinge on the outside.

passenger car.zip - Lego Digital Designer Ver. 3.1.3 (Universe Mode)

[Carefree_Dude]

I admit, some doors would have been nice. You can't use the standard train doors because they're too tall, and really would look out of place. But you can emulate the Emerald Night doors easily with few parts, all easily aquired on bricklink for a few coins. When the doors are shut, it looks practically the same, save for the door hinge on the outside.

passenger car.zip - Lego Digital Designer Ver. 3.1.3 (Universe Mode)

Yup, I plan on going this route with mine, but with only 2 doors per car. maybe have one or two without doors. Also, I plan on using the smaller windows where the doors are.

[Pet-Lego]

Nice review.

And thanks for the heads up in the comments on the price at bol.com

ordered one right away.

The way I see it this set has about € 38,- in power function parts that can be used to motorize the Emerald Night.(Remote, IR-receiver, Battery Box)

Guess I'll build it and have it running until I got enough cash for 2 Emerald Nights.

[bullet8542]

The only reason that I have not bought this set is because of the lack of rolling stock, One passenger car that was my problem with the last passenger train set I bought no way to add to the set without MOC ing or buying two which is the method I went with when will Lego come out with some more rolling stock how many Fire helicopters or rehashed Coast Guard fire sets? I love the fire themes and have most of them but how about some rolling stock please !