Captain Zuloo Posted August 28, 2009 I think that's a little harsh. It is designed to run on PF track (or 9v) which as standard has 8 studs between each track. I can see how it would be a problem on your 12v layout, but I think you're being a bit harsh - just because it doesn't work on a layout it wasn't designed for. Having said that, it's a mighty shame because I would have loved to see it going around on your awesome layout! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillytheKid Posted August 29, 2009 It does look impressive on box, but when build the train is small looking. This train is a big locomotive, so if it looks small compared with other trains......I think the design is failed. I prefer the old traindoors, which lego could used for the wagon. Sorry guys, I'm disappoiment with this train. Properly it will be sold when the price is going up, when it's out of sale. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillytheKid Posted August 29, 2009 (edited) This is my first modification of the trainmagnets: I had to cut this piece off, otherwise it will bump on the inner track of 12v. This is a sign that future trains form lego will not be combined with 12v tracks without modification. It depends on design now, if I gonna buy future trains form Lego. Big change it will not. Here a few pic's of a Emerald train at 12v. I had to remove a few bricks which make the train too wide for 12v. And the front light has a 12v light and also the wagon has 2 12v lights, that's why the wire in the tender. Edited November 13, 2010 by AFOL12v Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muffinman42 Posted August 29, 2009 express locomotives where designed to be smaller and more steamlined instead of large and bulky. if you dont like it give it to me! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillytheKid Posted September 3, 2009 (edited) My gf loves the look of the Emerald train. I do like the look of it, only I stay put it does look small when build and compared with other trains. Before I could run on 12v, I modified this train a little bit. First of all, it was too wide. Second I had to think how to build a 12v motor in it. Logic choise was in the tender, like set 7750. Only the tender of Emerald has 4 wheels and an 12v motor 3. I thought about the way of 727, but that was too long. I decided to use an 12v motor and add a few things, which can be seen at the pic below. Only the connect rods I have to change, before the complete transformation for 12v is done. Click on pic to get a bigger one On the 12v track: Click on pic to get a bigger one And here the modified tender: Click on pic to get a bigger one Let's show that 12v Emerald again : Click on pic to get a bigger one I know I complained about this train, while I build it. Afterall, I think a great add to my collection. And al those wire you see, I've put a light in the locomotive and 2 lights in the wagon. Looks fantastic. What you think of this modified Emerald for 12v? Ideas are welcome for keep it like original as possible. Edited November 13, 2010 by AFOL12v Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Topsy Cret Posted September 20, 2009 Nice review. I'm gonna be getting mine (hopefully) sometime before Christmas. It'll look great under the tree. Although I'm going to have to be doing some customization with the passenger car to make it 8 studs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andreas L. Posted September 27, 2009 (edited) Hi Panda9001100, Thanks for your info about the problems of running 10194 on the good old 12V tracks. I have build a large 12V blue rail layout with my son (pictures will be posted within the next couple of months) and was considering buying this train as the first new Lego train in 30 years. However, with your info it seems that we saved ourself some trouble and some cash. Too bad. We must reconsider getting the 7897 Passenger Train instead. Do you know if the 7897 train has the same problems with the magnets and the 12V switches? Edited December 9, 2009 by Andreas L. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain Zuloo Posted September 27, 2009 Do you know if the 7897 train has the same problems with the magnets and the 12V switches? That train hangs out over curves waaaaay too much. That would be just as much of a problem if not more that 10194. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillytheKid Posted September 27, 2009 I guess that train will have also problems to run over a 12v switch, because the front and back hang indeed a way over the track when it takes a curve. Never thought of that, because I don't like battery trains and besides I never liked that train. Maybe you can get a 4511 second hand. They can be found easily at ebay. The magnets will not be a problem. Only the emerald has the new 12v problem magnets . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beej Posted September 27, 2009 Only the emerald has the new 12v problem magnets . The Emerald has a problem with it's magnets? Mine seems fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoryoCox Posted December 8, 2009 Sorry if this has been asked before, but does the Emerald Night come with tracks as I see many people with the train on the tracks but not sure if they actually come with the set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randamatrix Posted December 8, 2009 The core set only has the train, so there are no tracks if you just buy the Emerald Night. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
soc399 Posted December 8, 2009 The magnets will not be a problem. Only the emerald has the new 12v problem magnets . Unfortunately, all the new production runs have the sealed magnets that will not work with 12v track. I just got the Cargo Train Deluxe, and it had the new couplers, even though the box showed the old ones. Safety concerns involving swallowed magnets caused Lego to change the part, and this also led to the new design for minifig magnet sets. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brickthus Posted December 8, 2009 This is my first modification of the trainmagnets: I had to cut this piece off, otherwise it will bump on the inner track of 12v. This is a sign that future trains form lego will not be combined with 12v tracks without modification. It depends on design now, if I gonna buy future trains form Lego. Big change it will not. ... 12V layouts for wider trains need to be designed to keep track centres further than 8M apart, like this. After all, real railways don't have the tracks so close together. The distance between tracks is referred to as the "six foot" so there's at last 4M between sleeper ends IRL, allowing trains to be 11.5M wide and still pass on the straight! I was tempted to do a similar coupling mod but I thought about it further and decided not to, for these reasons: - The snowplough coupling has more than just the redundant round tube below the critical height. - The 9V and PF train motors (10153 ans 8866) would not traverse track with ballast above rail height anyway. - Ballast should not be higher than the rails because it isn't on the real railway. This means Flexi-track ballast has to stay within 2 plates height with no studs on top, so the track in this picture and this picture will need to use 1x3 tiles (alternate grey and black for trains, but also solid dark bley or black for tram track in streets!) when the 1x3 tiles are available in 2010. That said, new buffer beam mod considerations were for running the Emerald Night train on my layout and experimental tracks. My usual MOC trains are wider than the EN anyway, but they don't use standard buffer beams because they are 8+ wide where the buffer beams are for 6-wide trains. Instead I use a 2x3 plate with hole for the coupling, or an upside-down Technic plate 2x4 with holes (which keeps the coupling straight), with separate buffers, either jumper plates or boat studs. TLG used to produce individual buffers on a 1x2 plate, for the blue era truck bases. They'd work well for wider trains. Bring them back TLG! Mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
j3tang Posted January 7, 2010 could someone measure up the length of the loco+tender connected? also the length of just the passenger? measured tip-to-tip please :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duq Posted January 7, 2010 Quick look at the pictures/instructions: The box says the whole train is 69cm long. Engine is 32 studs long, tender is 14, so that's about 37cm. Add buffers and a gap between the two and you're just over 40cm for the combination, leaving just over 25cm for the passenger car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
escortmad79 Posted January 7, 2010 I'm desperate to get my hands on this one! Don't need the carriage as it doesn't feature in my plans, just the loco & tender for a sweet MOC I'm planning on building Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CopMike Posted January 7, 2010 I'm desperate to get my hands on this one! Don't need the carriage as it doesn't feature in my plans, just the loco & tender for a sweet MOC I'm planning on buildingCheck Bricklink, cheapest for your needs right now is $69. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
escortmad79 Posted January 7, 2010 I've looked at the ones on Bricklink but they're abroad. Need one in the UK to cut delivery costs ideally Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
j3tang Posted January 7, 2010 Quick look at the pictures/instructions:The box says the whole train is 69cm long. Engine is 32 studs long, tender is 14, so that's about 37cm. Add buffers and a gap between the two and you're just over 40cm for the combination, leaving just over 25cm for the passenger car. Thanks for the estimate! It sounds like it'll fit snugly into my display case, as long as it's just over 40 cm and not much more :) I'm running out of room to display my trains but I still purchased the set anyways and it's already shipped! I'm super excited :p Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sens1992 Posted January 7, 2010 I am thinking of buying Emerald Night and I wonder if I should... I don't think I would buy the power function pack, just the train set... Can anyone tell me if the train alone is worth it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duq Posted January 7, 2010 There's five pages here of people telling you whether or not it's worth it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sens1992 Posted January 8, 2010 There's five pages here of people telling you whether or not it's worth it... Cynicism is an unpleasant way of telling the truth... Come on be nice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain Zuloo Posted January 8, 2010 Cynicism is an unpleasant way of telling the truth... Come on be nice. No, he's right. The very first post contains my review of the set, which I suggest you read as is has some good quality images showcasing the set, as well as my personal opinions of it. The posts/pages bring up the pros and cons of the set, also worth checking out. Be resourceful, make use of what is already here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites