42172 - McLaren P1

[LvdH]

Just did some testing. Has anyone mentioned that the gearbox paddles are once again wrong? Pulling the left paddle shifts up, and pulling the right paddle shifts down, or they inverted the gears.
Or I somehow made a mistake which I highly doubt.

Or, the P1 is somehow operating differently from my own car (which is not a P1 sadly) that also has paddle shifters.

Oh, and the gearbox really doesn't like being shifted while the differential is spinning. The new type of changeover is not as reliable at making 45 degree shifts than the 90 degree shifter was at making 90 degree shifts. Anyway, as I said, I don't care that much, but at this price surely there is a level of realism expected?

[Anio]

5 minutes ago, LvdH said:

Just did some testing. Has anyone mentioned that the gearbox paddles are once again wrong? Pulling the left paddle shifts up, and pulling the right paddle shifts down, or they inverted the gears.
Or I somehow made a mistake which I highly doubt.

You are not supposed to pull, but to push.
Hence it is correct.

[nerdsforprez]

3 hours ago, Anio said:

You are not supposed to pull, but to push.
Hence it is correct.

?  Is the P1 different than all other cars?  I have an old hyundai sonota.  Gears change by pulling.  Gave that to my kid.  Now I have one of the new M2s.  Pull.  "pushing" makes no sense.  I believe it is pull.  

Actually... I am editing my response.  For Lego, perhaps it is push.. but that is not how it is in real cars.  In real cars, gears change by pulling on the paddle shifters... 

Edited August 9 by nerdsforprez

[astyanax]

You'd have to check some source materials. Regular cars and sports cars can have opposite shifting motions. 

For example, when I was rebuilding the Pagani Huayra BC, I noticed that in videos of the real car, the central shifter would need to be pulled to shift up. In contrast, in regular cars with central shifter, pushing means shifting up. 

[nerdsforprez]

3 minutes ago, astyanax said:

You'd have to check some source materials. Regular cars and sports cars can have opposite shifting motions. 

For example, when I was rebuilding the Pagani Huayra BC, I noticed that in videos of the real car, the central shifter would need to be pulled to shift up. In contrast, in regular cars with central shifter, pushing means shifting up. 

we are talking about paddle shifters.  Not central shifter, which are very different.   Just basic ergonomics don't really lend themselves to "pushing" the paddles, at least as I understand it.  When one drives, palms are facing driver.  Hand muscles are stronger, and more refined, when pulling fingers towards oneself as opposed to flaying them outwards.  Of course I could push the shifters by reorienting the hands, like if you were pushing something aways from you, .... but obviously that does not work as it takes additional time to take hand off steering wheel, reorient, etc... As I mentioned, our family has both a crappy, old car (2011 hyundai sonata) and a modern sports car (2024 M2).  Both are "pull" in terms of using paddle shifters...  

[astyanax]

@nerdsforprez Sure, I was just saying I've been surprised before by opposing implementations of shifting. So since then, I'd be checking actual car reviews instead of relying on my own common sense. 

[nerdsforprez]

5 minutes ago, astyanax said:

@nerdsforprez Sure, I was just saying I've been surprised before by opposing implementations of shifting. So since then, I'd be checking actual car reviews instead of relying on my own common sense. 

Yup.  Agreed.  But for paddle shifters, just based on basic hand ergonomics, I don't see any variability in how paddle shifters can even work, unless the "opposing implementations" mean they aren't even paddle shifters.  I.e. like the center console shifter... 

But it does bring up a good question that I hadn't even considered for the Lego cars.  Are these supposed to work like the real thing in that the shifting is pulling and not pushing?  I dunno... 

 

[Aurorasaurus]

I had always assumed you were meant to push them, so perhaps they were designed, like everything else about the set, for people who know near nothing about cars.

[jb70]

On 7/26/2024 at 9:01 PM, thekoRngear said:

@jb70 come out come out and join forces (when it's time) 

The story has been started:

 

[LvdH]

As promised, for those interested, some comparison shots of the MOC by Bruno and the LEGO version.

To put it quickly: Bruno's version is still one of the best supercar MOCs out there, no question. However it isn't flawless. The functions are great but they take an enormous amount of time to operate, and even more difficult now that my model has been sat gathering dust for a few years. I much prefer being able to open things directly, and even better if it is sprung.
The engine cover lifts up not needing to remove the spoiler, but is also much flimsier than the LEGO solution (which you could probably drive over with a tank). The frunk is also quite flimsy in Bruno's version.
Now the LEGO version: the front end is quite wrong. I think it's partially result of using these bigger size wheels (same as the Daytona). This makes the wheelarches higher, which then makes the lights mounted higher, and so on. The wheels are absolutely beautiful, both color and design. No complaints there. Not all the details are present either. The windscreen is pretty much just a rectangle which is not how the real P1 looks. The rear end for the most part is really, really well done. The shape is quite perfect. However the area where is usually a fence or such, is completely missing and makes the whole thing look more open than it should be. The side profile looks great, up until where the front wheelarch ends. The door hinge is very similar to the Daytona but it's also not accurate. In any case, I did really enjoy building this set. It's built quite well. The gearbox is a thing of beauty, and hope to see the pieces in MOCs soon.

Many more photo's here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/LvdH/p1-lego

Edited August 10 by LvdH

[Anio]

14 hours ago, nerdsforprez said:

?  Is the P1 different than all other cars?  I have an old hyundai sonota.  Gears change by pulling.  Gave that to my kid.  Now I have one of the new M2s.  Pull.  "pushing" makes no sense.  I believe it is pull.  

Actually... I am editing my response.  For Lego, perhaps it is push.. but that is not how it is in real cars.  In real cars, gears change by pulling on the paddle shifters... 

I meant on the Lego set.
Sorry for the confusion.

[LegoHoops]

The McLaren P1 arrived fairly quickly from TLG last week with the accompanying GWP, which I have zero interest in.

Naturally I’m a McLaren fan boy being from New Zealand - home of Bruce McLaren Cars & Motorsport. Grew up with stories of Bruce McLaren’s involvement in motorsport as a Constructor and racing in F1 (winning the 1962 Monaco GP), the Can-Am series and LeMans 24 Hours (winning 1966 race with fellow Kiwi Chris Amon). A few MOC Lego Technic McLaren Cars, have been built over the years, Bruno’s original McLaren P1 and two of Charbel’s McLaren 720S’. Having brought the last four Lego 1:8 scale cars, had to add P1 to the set. Spent the best part of yesterday building the P1 with a few modifications along the way.

The complete car is solid and robust - no issues picking this one up.

The seats have been infilled with an extra 11.5 Bent Liftarm through the centre. One thing that was noticeable with Blue 3L Pins, colour bled through the Bright-Light Orange Liftarm, ended up substituting with Tan 3 L Pins. There is not a Lime Pin in sight! - all replaced with LBG and Black. 

Curved Slopes fitted to the back of the clamshell to cover the exposed Liftarm Frame. 

 

Bruno’s McLaren P1 alongside its Lego counterpart. I had constructed another P1 front end, prior the sets arrival to work through cleaning up size of lower grille area (too big) and of course headlights. Built the shape of the P1’s headlight in wire form using scaled drawings, trying to best replicate the shape is the Lego P1. I have brought a few 47L lengths of 3mm Rigid Hose in White, plan is to use these rather than using Soft Axles, to provide tighter curves.

 

Edited August 12 by LegoHoops
Image

[zonoskar]

I don't get the fuss about the front. To me both look similar. I wouldn't want to trade the nice wheel arches for the flimsy flex axles, nor the sturdy hood and bonnet for more flimsy ones, so I'm glad Lego made this choice. I still need to get the set though, so I'm basing this on internet images alone. 

[langko]

Cool to see the comparison shots from you guys that own Bruno's one as well. Thanks for sharing!

7 hours ago, zonoskar said:

To me both look similar. I wouldn't want to trade the nice wheel arches for the flimsy flex axles, nor the sturdy hood and bonnet for more flimsy ones,

Does this look the same to you?

And for the record I think you could still get nice wheel arches and a sturdy bonnet whilst respecting the proportions... It just didn't happen here.

Edited August 12 by langko
grammer

[LegoHoops]

8 hours ago, langko said:

Does this look the same to you?

And for the record I think you could still get nice wheel arches and a sturdy bonnet whilst respecting the proportions... It just didn't happen here.

@LvdH ‘s image probably represents a true perspective of the front overhang vs the TLG sliding image.

Plan is to retain existing guards and most of the bonnet, it’s just getting that front curvature right plus that headlight shape. It doesn’t help there is bigger cartoon wheels to deal with, the actual P1 has 19” front (245/35 R19) and 20” (315/30 R20) rear rims (tyres). Would have been too difficult for TLG to implement, just didn’t need to be the Ferrari Daytona size. 

[zonoskar]

9 hours ago, langko said:

Cool to see the comparison shots from you guys that own Bruno's one as well. Thanks for sharing!

Does this look the same to you?

 

So the nose should have been 2 studs longer. I still think Lego still did a better job than Bruno, but they also had more (newer) parts available. Must be me then, not a real petrol head, not a Lego fanboy as I hate all the unicorn vomit inside of these cars.

[langko]

1 hour ago, LegoHoops said:

image probably represents a true perspective of the front overhang vs the TLG sliding image.

I just took the official images from LEGO and the MOC designer. They’re all from a side view so it’s still a decent comparison. That photo makes it looks better but I think it’s still noticeable that it’s too short on the LEGO one.

I don’t have either model (and correct me if I’m wrong) but looking at photos from the underside both models have the same amount of studs from the middle of the front axle to the tip of the front splitter. But given the bigger scale due to the cartoonish wheels you mentioned the LEGO one should actually be longer. So as well as fixing the light position and the front curvature I also think you need to pull the front nose out by 1 or 2 studs as well.

[Anio]

13 hours ago, langko said:

That photo makes it looks better but I think it’s still noticeable that it’s too short on the LEGO one.

It is not.
You can see on Lego picture that the photo is taken a bit from the back. I mean, have a look at the Bright Light Orange 3x5 liftarm near the wheel arch.

[LvdH]

For those who believe they missed out, the GWP is once again being offered on Lego’s official webshop with purchase of the P1.

[msk6003]

Seems like TLG did similer thing but something different. It has very lot of C+ L motor on backside of car but it isn't work in video. I'm guessing they took the chassis of a real car and put a Lego cover on it, so the car in the video runs at the same high speed as the real P1.
 

Anyway, TLG did something similar to what they did with the Bugatti and Sian: using a lot of parts in non-existent colours. In the video, you can see a lot of 7L flip-flop beams (probably yellow), as well as a stop axle of unknown length and possibly a 3L friction pin, all in yellow.

[R0Sch]

Looks like they can keep the proportions right at 1:1 scale and still use blue pins. ;)

On 9/11/2024 at 3:32 PM, LvdH said:

For those who believe they missed out, the GWP is once again being offered on Lego’s official webshop with purchase of the P1.

Hoping it will just end up as a VIP reward for a couple of points after they realize that nobody is willing to pay full price for such a weak GWP.

[StudWorks]

40 minutes ago, R0Sch said:

Looks like they can keep the proportions right at 1:1 scale and still use blue pins. ;)

Agreed dude, the proportions and shaping are way more accurate than the 1:8 set, despite the 1:1 car looking like a Cheeto-Mobile.

[astyanax]

7 minutes ago, StudWorks said:

1:1 car looking like a Cheeto-Mobile.

Cannot be unseen 

[Zerobricks]

3 hours ago, R0Sch said:

Looks like they can keep the proportions right at 1:1 scale and still use blue pins. ;)

Hoping it will just end up as a VIP reward for a couple of points after they realize that nobody is willing to pay full price for such a weak GWP.

I didn't hear anything mentioned about the power source of the 1:1. I doubt they used an ICE, that would melt bricks though...

[1gor]

1 minute ago, Zerobricks said:

I didn't hear anything mentioned about the power source of the 1:1. I doubt they used an ICE, that would melt bricks though...

Probably huge abount of Large motors...