Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, M_longer said:

I have finished design proces of alt build for this set, preparing it for disasembly and making a 3D model :)

https://www.instagram.com/p/C-TQRCjOnc2/?img_index=1

That one looks better than both Unimog U400 and G wagon, tires have perfect pattern for Unimog...today I was looking at 42178 set and my wife said that Unimog would look better in that color than in ordinary orange. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Paul B Technic said:

it is great to watch some of these reviews and see the differences of ideas and opinions on this. I am still on the fence, it would my first large set in a few years.

I say why not? If you are a MOC enthusiast/deep into modifications you can buy this set, fix all the loose parts of the body structure, maybe slimming down the rear solid axle and all other things that you wanna change. I actually forgot to mention a point that Sariel said in his video review:

Quote

I have to admit that this set has way too many flimsy body parts for my liking, but on the other hand, it can take a surprising amount of abuse without anything falling off. No matter how rough I play with it. I only managed to loose the spare wheel

Yes, it has too many flimsy body region/parts compared to Defender [FACT] but it does not mean someone who is into modifications should not buy it. Even, the [arguably] best non18+ function-oriented set of this decade [so far], that is the 42145 H175 has bends, flimsiness, and wobbliness and rooms for improvement. So, you can buy it.

Edited by thekoRngear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Interesting what he says about them not being able to design hollow wheel arches that would allow the wheel to go underneath as the suspension works; since the Defender's wheel arch is just like that :D

I think the problem is not the wheel arch, but most Lego wheels being too wide in proportions and resulting in overly wide axles sticking out from underneath the body. In my Volvo alternate that uses the same wheel arches as the Defender, I was surprised how well the (steered/suspended) wheel can pass under the wheel arch even with much bigger wheels. Although that uses pendular axle, which pulls the wheel inwards as it articulates, while the independent suspension with its basic geometry pushes it outwards.. Furthermore, brick built wheel arches are not buildable for circular shapes, and even when buildable, look very much out of style due to all the pinholes. So I'm still waiting for nice wheel arches for off-roaders :)

I don't exactly get why the rear diff had to be offset by half a stud. Both axles could just use red differentials with 12T pinion gears (or the yellow diffs if the red results in too much speed and friction), if the rear diff was also centered; the space for the locking ring would just be enough on one side of the frame.

Another thing that's not clear to me is why the model does not use Audi hubs in the front to increase the steering angle and to get more of those parts out? I guess cost, but we are talking about a $250 model..

Nice that he discusses some issues that people have been commenting on, like the fragmented doors. I don't know if anybody said specialized parts should be made for doors, what I proposed is smaller panels like 5x7 or even 5x5 (and 4L / 6L liftarms). Those would be very useful elsewhere as well, so definitely not specialized. Pity that Lego never made the flat panel system more systematic, it could be very well used to build good looking continuous surfaces of any size; one could even build larger surfaces from smaller flat panels, but the large panels are not useful for smaller surfaces..

I like the amount of articulation, very nice!

Yeah, let's all design Unimog alternate models out of this set; seems like everybody had the same obvious idea :D

Edited by gyenesvi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, NV Lego technic said:

Can't you just stack 2 thin 6L liftarms?

You could, but.. For one, it's more flimsy, especially when used structurally and connected by friction pins or axles. Second, it looks worse; and when things already look fragmented enough even when full beams are stacked, then making it look even worse is not something we're looking for.. Remember the motto of Lego: Only the best is good enough.. So why make it worse when it could simply be alleviated with parts that would be super useful in many areas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, M_longer said:

 

I was hoping that something was left for poryal axles...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, 1gor said:

I was hoping that something was left for poryal axles...

Like these?
453792482_862642071957755_58657232930441

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
54 minutes ago, M_longer said:

Like these?
 

Yes, not bad idea after all; this I suppose is rear axle..

 

...or you have steering with links, so you attach link on red ball joint...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Yes, not bad idea after all; this I suppose is rear axle..

 

...or you have steering with links, so you attach link on red ball joint...

Who knows...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

You could, but.. For one, it's more flimsy, especially when used structurally and connected by friction pins or axles. Second, it looks worse; and when things already look fragmented enough even when full beams are stacked, then making it look even worse is not something we're looking for.. Remember the motto of Lego: Only the best is good enough.. So why make it worse when it could simply be alleviated with parts that would be super useful in many areas?

Stacking two thin liftarms is mariginally flimsier yes, but looks-wise it's not an issue, the thin liftarms stack with much less of a seam than thick liftarms as they have much sharper edge profile. So yes, stacking two 6L liftarms would work well unless the build requires rigidity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, NV Lego technic said:

Why does the model have only 3 wheel hubs?

Because 3 were needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, howitzer said:

Stacking two thin liftarms is mariginally flimsier yes, but looks-wise it's not an issue, the thin liftarms stack with much less of a seam than thick liftarms as they have much sharper edge profile.

True that they stack tighter, but I have good eyes :) I think fragmentation is worse / more visible when lines that break the surface go in all directions and positions; it's less noticeable when they line up nicely. But thin liftarms usually introduce extra fragmentation lines that don't line up with the surrounding full beams. That said, yeah, having 6L thin liftarms is better than nothing, but they exist in much fewer colors than regular beams.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing that wasn’t mentioned at all by any reviewer so far - how does it feel to roll the Gwagen with central/both diffs locked, any resistance windup effect?… Any observations are welcome, as I still not sure what to expect with Lego wheel traction, and hence whether it makes sense to include locking diffs into manual models

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Urbal said:

One thing that wasn’t mentioned at all by any reviewer so far - how does it feel to roll the Gwagen with central/both diffs locked, any resistance windup effect?… Any observations are welcome, as I still not sure what to expect with Lego wheel traction, and hence whether it makes sense to include locking diffs into manual models

What else can be shown from mechanical functions except for the gearbox and differential lock? Now this is the ceiling of Lego's capabilities and a standard set of functions for such models. In MOC and Chinese Lego it is now fashionable to adjust the suspension height, but these are already supercars with more than 4000 parts. If you want a lot of different mechanics, assemble Fantasma from Cada - it has a bunch of different mechanisms and more than 100 gears.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Sokolov Edward said:

What else can be shown from mechanical functions except for the gearbox and differential lock? Now this is the ceiling of Lego's capabilities and a standard set of functions for such models. In MOC and Chinese Lego it is now fashionable to adjust the suspension height, but these are already supercars with more than 4000 parts. If you want a lot of different mechanics, assemble Fantasma from Cada - it has a bunch of different mechanisms and more than 100 gears.

Sorry but would be great to hear real life experience, let’s not speculate on what else can be shown or what is fashionable in MOC, or Chinese Lego… The question is: Does locked diff make model rolling noticeably harder or drivetrain low tolerances (and I can also think tire skidding) mitigate the wind-up effect? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Urbal said:

Sorry but would be great to hear real life experience, let’s not speculate on what else can be shown or what is fashionable in MOC, or Chinese Lego… The question is: Does locked diff make model rolling noticeably harder or drivetrain low tolerances (and I can also think tire skidding) mitigate the wind-up effect? 

I don’t want to upset you, but the direct purpose of this model is to stand beautifully on a shelf, and not to roll it on the floor. You are the only one who cares about the effect of the differential lock on the ride. The design of the differential lock in the rear axle worried me only in terms of replacing part 4159 with an adequate design while maintaining functionality.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
48 minutes ago, Sokolov Edward said:

I don’t want to upset you, but the direct purpose of this model is to stand beautifully on a shelf, and not to roll it on the floor. You are the only one who cares about the effect of the differential lock on the ride. The design of the differential lock in the rear axle worried me only in terms of replacing part 4159 with an adequate design while maintaining functionality.

Hafta agree with that. While I don't want to upset Urbal too, it seems the stock build has been designed for that purpose.

Edited by thekoRngear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.