LEGO Trains 2024

[R0Sch]

90€ and no motor, lights, remote or magnetic couplings!  At least we don't have a giant gap between platform and train again.

[*thomas*]

I don't dislike it. I think it would look good with the current trainstation.

[Space78]

Very nice!  I'll be getting this for sure.  Interesting that they are going with just a short section of track with the "on/off" rails at the ends like 60335 Train Station.  I like having those ends available.  Might make it easier for young kids to "rail" a train or a car, though for this set to be really useful as part of a train set, you obviously need a lot more track.  I can only guess Lego wanted to keep the price down by excluding additional track sections to make a circle or oval.  Anyone know or can guess at a more specific release date for this?

Edit: I see on Lego.com it is slated for August 1.

7 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

Cool! And indeed, looks like a scaled down and updated version of 7938. Not bad looking and neat that they actually put it on rails. Hard to hide a motor, but might be able to use circuit cubes to be more discrete.

Yes, given where the wheels are located, it's unclear how you would motorize this.

The curved window over the driver's area looks to be only two studs wide, so I'm wondering how the minifig is going to get in and our of that compartment?

Edited May 1 by Space78

[Stereo]

56 minutes ago, Space78 said:

The curved window over the driver's area looks to be only two studs wide, so I'm wondering how the minifig is going to get in and our of that compartment?

It is wedge shaped, maybe the side panels fold open?

[Murdoch17]

1 hour ago, *thomas* said:

I don't dislike it. I think it would look good with the current trainstation.

I'd love to see somebody combine them together to make longer platforms for 60335.

[Feuer Zug]

It appears to be a take on the Baureihe 428 class. The angled in section of the nose appears interesting with the hinges. I'd like to see how they managed the windscreen/canopy gap.

[Vilhelm22]

5 hours ago, Feuer Zug said:

It appears to be a take on the Baureihe 428 class. The angled in section of the nose appears interesting with the hinges. I'd like to see how they managed the windscreen/canopy gap.

I was thinking an Alstom Citadis 302 actually - the Nottingham ones are like that as well as several other 302s around the world.

[vclarke]

I think the Artemis rocket launch pad features the element 6583 train wagon 1x6 end plate in light blueish grey 

[Ondra]

This train reminds me a lot 7725, which was my favourite set of 12V era .

Im already planning to buy two sets, and made one train longer and one small. Price is kinda ok in my country.

 

I really hope it will be start of smaller and hand operated trains in near future.

[R0Sch]

I see no easy way to motorize this tram. Maybe if the whole middle car was filled with battery box, but the axle distance is wider than a train motor.

Edited May 3 by R0Sch

[Brickviller V2]

I really like the tram and the little builds. The front is also quite original 😁

[Dav1d]

On 5/3/2024 at 4:52 PM, R0Sch said:

I see no easy way to motorize this tram. Maybe if the whole middle car was filled with battery box, but the axle distance is wider than a train motor.

Could you put the motor between the carriages as in a Jacobs bogie ?

[Desvejk]

I used the method below for the lovely yellow tram from 60271 LEGO® City Main Square

 

 

https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/188622-maximizing-integrated-use-of-the-powered-up-hub/&tab=comments#comment-3476354

Edited May 5 by Desvejk
Accuracy

[Stereo]

9 hours ago, Dav1d said:

Could you put the motor between the carriages as in a Jacobs bogie ?

Interesting idea, testing a mockup with Stud.io it looks like it would lose 1/3 of the red brick under the window (for clearance above the motor's tiled area), and need an extra stud of length (neon yellow) making the car 18 instead of 16 studs long, plus the floor would be ~2 plates taller in the end section.  But the gap between cars can remain 3 studs minus 2 tiles, it's still more than enough clearance to use R40.

(upper one is my copy of the set's basic dimensions, to get wheel height and such, limited photos so it's not really accurate) 

I don't have good ideas for hiding a whole battery box though.  Maybe you could blank out the windows of one end of a car like this, decorate it as a billboard ad or something.

[Morvayn]

On 5/4/2024 at 6:36 PM, Dav1d said:

Could you put the motor between the carriages as in a Jacobs bogie ?

Something I was thinking of is inserting a powerpack car in between the carriages, similar to what is used on the Stadler GTW (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stadler_GTW). The tram even looks a bit like the third generation GTW. The powerpack car can have the motor, and the battery box on top of it. Not sure what the height of that combination is compared to the rest of the tram.

The rest of the tram can remain the same, or it is possible to also change the axle layout to make it more similar. Either by just removing one axle per car, or make the cars even longer and use bogies at the end of each car. In both cases the connection between cars needs to be changed to use a ball joint.

Edited May 5 by Morvayn
typo

[Space78]

20 hours ago, Stereo said:

Interesting idea, testing a mockup with Stud.io it looks like it would lose 1/3 of the red brick under the window (for clearance above the motor's tiled area), and need an extra stud of length (neon yellow) making the car 18 instead of 16 studs long, plus the floor would be ~2 plates taller in the end section.  But the gap between cars can remain 3 studs minus 2 tiles, it's still more than enough clearance to use R40.

(upper one is my copy of the set's basic dimensions, to get wheel height and such, limited photos so it's not really accurate) 

I don't have good ideas for hiding a whole battery box though.  Maybe you could blank out the windows of one end of a car like this, decorate it as a billboard ad or something.

Very nice solution!  For those using 9V track, one can use your modifications to just put a 9V motor in that position.

[Desvejk]

21 hours ago, Stereo said:

Interesting idea, testing a mockup with Stud.io it looks like it would lose 1/3 of the red brick under the window (for clearance above the motor's tiled area), and need an extra stud of length (neon yellow) making the car 18 instead of 16 studs long, plus the floor would be ~2 plates taller in the end section.  But the gap between cars can remain 3 studs minus 2 tiles, it's still more than enough clearance to use R40.

(upper one is my copy of the set's basic dimensions, to get wheel height and such, limited photos so it's not really accurate) 

I don't have good ideas for hiding a whole battery box though.  Maybe you could blank out the windows of one end of a car like this, decorate it as a billboard ad or something.

Excellent idea. Will look forward to seeing the build. 

[Aanchir]

On 5/4/2024 at 10:07 PM, Stereo said:

Interesting idea, testing a mockup with Stud.io it looks like it would lose 1/3 of the red brick under the window (for clearance above the motor's tiled area), and need an extra stud of length (neon yellow) making the car 18 instead of 16 studs long, plus the floor would be ~2 plates taller in the end section.  But the gap between cars can remain 3 studs minus 2 tiles, it's still more than enough clearance to use R40.

(upper one is my copy of the set's basic dimensions, to get wheel height and such, limited photos so it's not really accurate) 

I don't have good ideas for hiding a whole battery box though.  Maybe you could blank out the windows of one end of a car like this, decorate it as a billboard ad or something.

For what it's worth, the liftarms connecting the carriages of the tram together in the official set are four studs long rather than three, to ensure that the carriage doors line up evenly with the sliding gangways on the station platform. So that actually gives you even more space to fit a motor in between the two carriages!

I definitely like both the look of this new tram and the sliding gangway function! The build of the carriages (lowering the doors without relying on prefab train/trailer base elements) is also pretty clever.

If it's any help, here's my stud.io mock-up of the official set from the limited photos we've seen so far. The piece count is quite a bit lower than it should be, so I know for sure that I've gotten some details wrong (I'm particularly uncertain about the parts holding the bottom of the locomotive cab together, so a lot of what I have there that is just educated guesswork). But I believe most of the details of the middle carriage and the station platform should be correct, along with the parts that make up the exterior of the locomotive.

Edited May 6 by Aanchir

[Stereo]

1 hour ago, Aanchir said:

For what it's worth, the liftarms connecting the carriages of the tram together in the official set are four studs long rather than three, to ensure that the carriage doors line up evenly with the sliding gangways on the station platform. So that actually gives you even more space to fit a motor in between the two carriages!

Ah, I was only working from the box photos on Lego.com which don't really show that connection.  Quite likely it can use the original carriage lengths, then - it only gets close to the hooks on the end of the motor, so I'd probably want to test run it on an actual track.  The 1x6x6 doorframes are the only part I definitely don't have, so maybe I'll build the middle carriage when I get a chance.

[Aanchir]

10 hours ago, Stereo said:

Ah, I was only working from the box photos on Lego.com which don't really show that connection.  Quite likely it can use the original carriage lengths, then - it only gets close to the hooks on the end of the motor, so I'd probably want to test run it on an actual track.  The 1x6x6 doorframes are the only part I definitely don't have, so maybe I'll build the middle carriage when I get a chance. 

Yeah, I was using the box photos also, but I realized after building the platform that it needed an extra module between the carriages for everything to line up, and that sure enough the carriages seemed further apart in the box pics than they did on stud.io until I lengthened the couplings. That also explained why the couplings use half-thickness Technic beams instead of full-thickness ones — only the former is available at this specific length.

Edited May 6 by Aanchir

[Stereo]

Whoops, I forgot the wire comes out of PF motors in the least convenient spot for this.

Had to move the pivot right off the end of the motor, so the car is half a stud away from where I wanted it.  The other car can make up for it, it's just unfortunate that the motor won't be exactly halfway between the cars, and the other one will need more parts removed to make room, this one's only using about 15 parts not from the set.  Only rare one is 2x2/2x4 inverted red tiles, I'm using a regular 2x6 plate and it catches on the wire a bit when the track changes direction.

Edited May 7 by Stereo

[Desvejk]

Great implementation. 
Good luck with it. 

17 hours ago, Stereo said:

Whoops, I forgot the wire comes out of PF motors in the least convenient spot for this.

Had to move the pivot right off the end of the motor, so the car is half a stud away from where I wanted it.  The other car can make up for it, it's just unfortunate that the motor won't be exactly halfway between the cars, and the other one will need more parts removed to make room, this one's only using about 15 parts not from the set.  Only rare one is 2x2/2x4 inverted red tiles, I'm using a regular 2x6 plate and it catches on the wire a bit when the track changes direction.

 

[Stereo]

Version 1 above was functional but with some downsides.

Here's version 2.  Rarer parts, that get things exactly where I want them.

64799 plate 4x4 with 2x2 hole lets the PF wire end through; 4x4 with 2x2 round hole is better but won't fit a 2x2x2/3 brick.  PU plugs should manage it?  Of course you can also just build a square 2x2 hole without this piece, but I wanted at least some degree of sturdiness and only have 2 plates worth of height to build in.

1871 brick round 1x1 quarter dome leaves a quarter of the hole free for the wire.

68013 brick round half 1x2 should be part of the solution but I don't have any, so I used another 1871 as placeholder.

3396 tile 2x2 with quarter round cutouts should seal the deal, turning that square hole round... I don't have any of these either.

And of course some 1x2x4 panel (or 2x 1x2x2) to make space under the car for the 2x3 plate it all sits on.  In the future it could use a 2x3 plate with pinhole, and a 1745 half circle jumper upside down to get rid of those corners that interfere.  Another part I don't have; they would reduce the modification to the set a bit.

Anyway, it runs well on R40 track even without the 68013, and has a 4 stud gap between carriages.  I'd probably simplify the non-wired end to use a 2x2 round brick so the construction is similar.

[CastleRail]

15 hours ago, Stereo said:

V

3396 tile 2x2 with quarter round cutouts should seal the deal, turning that square hole round... I don't have any of these either.

27925 has the same interior curvature doesn't it?

[Stereo]

32 minutes ago, CastleRail said:

27925 has the same interior curvature doesn't it?

Yeah it does, I forgot all about that part.