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Good, that this allow to make really compact V or flat engines, or even some star like arrangement.

This also allows to make some "realistic" valving (but maybe not timing) for some bigger fake engine.

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Really cool new part!

Looks like even the Lego designers were fed up with coming up with partly horrible solutions for the clicking engines (looking at you, 42164).

 The ridge should be in normal bar size for c-clamps, I think we will see this part also in some fancy Lego System builds (wave motion for example).

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nice to see new engine parts, I wonder if the crank ends fit into finger  joints as well as over the new cam piece.

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4 hours ago, SNIPE said:

nice to see new engine parts, I wonder if the crank ends fit into finger  joints as well as over the new cam piece.

Huh, eyeballing it, it might fit over the single finger side and be able to rotate without the clicks.  Neither's really a simple enough shape to know for sure.

 

Crossing my fingers the Koenigsegg Jesko comes with them, much more likely to buy that than this bike, unless I see a sale.

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Posted (edited)

Looks like Goc Guyen forgot to put RB's review link :laugh:

 

Edited by thekoRngear

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Posted (edited)

I've just built the Ninja and can report that it's a brilliant model, and a worthy successor to the 42107 Ducati. I made only four minor adjustments: (i) replacing the stickered 1x2 tile on the dash with a printed part; (ii) adding 85861 1x1 round plates under the wing mirrors to secure the connection; (iii) replacing the #32028 1x2 plate on the loose section behind the fuel tank with a #48336 plate; and (iv) replacing the stickered 2x2 round tile at the exhaust tip with #15535 (round tile with hole). The model is an improvement over the Ducati in at least two respects, in that the windscreen is hard plastic and the transmission doesn't rely on a rubber band.

I saw Racing Brick's excellent review video and would like to address the fault in the stepping mechanism he reports (at 3:19 in the video). There is a potential issue here in that the mechanism may malfunction in a minor way, even if built correctly. But it is hard to explain, so I will try some pictures.

tpZXQ5R.jpeg

Changing from 2nd->Neutral->1st is fine. The black knob gear will rotate anticlockwise, pushing the stepper L-Beam upwards each time from below. No problem at all. The issue only concerns changing gears in the other direction.

Za0AG6n.jpeg

This is what changing from 1st->Neutral->2nd should look like. The black knob gear is now turning clockwise, and should again push the L-Beam upwards. But... if the L-Beam is sitting a little low then the black knob gear will hit it nearly square-on from the side, meaning you might get this malfunction instead...

xfhuTYq.jpeg

It is possible for the L-Beam to get pushed downwards instead of upwards. This doesn't have any major effect, but it feels weird and is the fault you can see in Racing brick's video. The issue is that the L-Beam provides resistance via a flexible rubber connector, which determines the exact height at which the L-Beam sits. If the L-Beam sits a little low and starts getting pushed downwards, this will stretch the rubber connector, and the stepper will tend to continue malfunctioning, going down instead of up. One simple solution is to push the L-Beam upwards and keep it there for a while, until the rubber connector gets used to this position, and the L-Beam will then naturally sit a little higher and should be less prone to getting pushed downwards. The stepper here should only ever be moving upwards, regardless of which way you are going through the gears.

Edited by BrickMonkeyMOCs

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@BrickMonkeyMOCs thanks for the detailed explanation, it's easier to understand with pictures :) Your solution is quite clever, it does work and it is fairly easy to implement, although I still think the stepper could have been designed to be more reliable out of the box :) 

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Posted (edited)

I found a mistake in the instruction. In 94 the handlingbars are in the model, in 95 they are gone and in 96 they are back again.

42170_instructie_fou_kleint.png

Some minor mod/correction:

The submodel  in step 131 stays kind of wobbly when added..

It is easily corrected with the adding of a 1l liftarm. The part is an extra.

Spoiler

(or this was originally in the instruction but later removed because there are 6 of these in the partslist.) EDIT: sorry made a counting mistake...

 

42170_stap_113_correction_klein.png

 

 

Edited by JunkstyleGio

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Would using the new gray knob gear have any effect on the stepper mechanism?

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It could be out of index, gear, as it has 45' angle difference

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Posted (edited)
On 3/7/2024 at 5:09 AM, kbalage said:

@BrickMonkeyMOCs thanks for the detailed explanation, it's easier to understand with pictures :) Your solution is quite clever, it does work and it is fairly easy to implement, although I still think the stepper could have been designed to be more reliable out of the box :) 

Cheers. I agree it is something of a design flaw, but a minor one whose effects are easily avoided. A better depiction than mine of the correct/intended stepper motion is shown below from TBB's review. Sariel also seems to note the same flaw with the mechanism occasionally jamming.

LEGO-Technic-42170-Kawasaki-Ninja-H2R-TB

 

On 3/7/2024 at 8:19 AM, JunkstyleGio said:

Some minor mod/correction:

The submodel  in step 131 stays kind of wobbly when added..

It is easily corrected with the adding of a 1l liftarm. The part is an extra.

Are you sure this works? It was my first thought too, but I found it wouldn't fit without disengaging the connection to the rear of the fuel tank. Here's an LDraw image showing the confliction of parts. The added 1L liftarm is in trans pink, and hits the grey connector in front of it. I've been using 48336 (1x2 plate w/ handle) in place of 32028 (1x2 plate w/ door rail), shown here in yellow, as an alternative solution.

DZS2fVD.png

Edited by BrickMonkeyMOCs

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29 minutes ago, JunkstyleGio said:

@BrickMonkeyMOCs

Sometimes LDR gives no tolerance where irl Lego does.

Sure, but it doesn't fit for me IRL either. The LDraw image was just for illustration. If it's working for you then that's great, but is the connection for the rear of the fuel tank actually staying connected for you when the 1L liftarm is added? For me, the added liftarm pops that connection open.

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So we all have our own solution!

As we say in dutch: "Er zijn meerdere wegen naar Rome" ( Or translated in English: "The are several roads to Rome.")

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