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2 hours ago, T Lego said:

The pictures below show some different and ultimately unsuccesful front fender ideas. 

I love that you even tried part 18969! That would've been so baffling if that had worked out!

250x250p.jpg

3 hours ago, T Lego said:

Some don't care as much about that, and rather put mudguard panels on - a matter of preference.

Cheers mate! :pir-huzzah2:

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It's always nice to get a look behind the scenes, even if I might have seen a few of these pictures already :wink: . Most are still new to me, so thanks for sharing. I think the Bricksafe folder especially shows the amount of work that went into this build. It's interesting to see how many solutions were "rejected" even if the car still unmistakably looked like a LaFerrari. I think despite the few shortcomings this build is still one of, if not, the best 1:8 supercar out there.

That said: looking forward to seeing your future projects :laugh:

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@T Lego thanks for sharing your journey with the build! Makes me want to build it even more now. 
Definitely shows how much work goes into a project like this. I think it’s easy for people to see the finished model on YouTube or wherever and not understand the effort that actually goes into it. Then new designers get disappointed when they can’t make something to this level in just a few months…

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I just bought this set. I have the (of course) printed manuals, but I can see them better on a large lit screed, I see here that the instructions can be found on CaDA website, even mentioned on the box (doubleeagle-group.com), but I can't find them. I found the download page, but C61505W model simply isn't there. Anyone who has the instructions, can please forward a working link to me, or send me somehow (email, etc.)?

Thanks

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4 hours ago, phaenius said:

Anyone who has the instructions, can please forward a working link to me, or send me somehow (email, etc.)?

Sent links in a private message. This add-on can also help for proper assembly

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ciz1R7clO09X-gIp8QnhiiGc6ejqP3CA/view

The instructions repacked into 2 volumes can also be found here https://bricknbricks.com/en/cada-c61505-viva-hypercar/

 

Edited by Sokolov Edward

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Hello,

A few months ago I downloaded the instruction manuals from the Cada website and wanted to make this using Lego bricks. I completely forgot about it until now.

Apart from what has already been mentioned in previous posts, has anyone got any tips, methods or modifications for building the Cada model in Lego bricks? It looks like most of it has been covered. And is the part list uploaded on the second page still accurate given all the changes? Or is there an instruction manual available that shows steps for building directly using Lego?

Thanks in advance!

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Hi Thijs, is there a way to contact you regarding a collaboration an a CADA Moc build of the Savage Rivale Roadyacht GTS?

 

kind regards

 

Emile 

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Hi @T Lego,

I finished building your set yesterday, after more than 26 hours. I don't know whether to call you a genius or a madman, this was absolutely brilliant ! I am a fairly inexperienced Technic builder (I only did the Mclaren formula 1 and Peugoet 9x8), and this was my first experience with a non-Lego brand, it was smoother than I expected, all functions work properly

I loved every bit of challenge that the car gave me, thank you so much for this ! I look forward to your next 1:8 if there is one in the works (and I'll probably get the Centenario from Cada in the meantime)

(I loved it so much that I created an account specifically to thank you)

Kind regards,

Emile 

Edited by milmoul

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On 2/1/2024 at 6:33 AM, arcticgenes said:

For anyone looking for similar wheels to what are shown in the first page.  I know a link was given for 3d printed wheels from Technic Rims which has since closed up shop.  I found an amazing alternative that is way cheaper and available immediately. 

Thank you for sharing this! Their Tornado Hubs look like they'd be a good upgrade for the Lego Sian too.

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I've bought the Cada version (though I'm still waiting on my Nifeliz custom rims). Overall the set is an engineering masterpiece and I'm very happy with the product and value. The functions are superb and the panel work to replicate the real car is just as incredible. However, the set does have some issues that need addressing, mainly with a few very fragile areas, the front wheel wells, and the engine cover, so I thought I'd share the problems I've found along with the fixes implemented. I expect the designer, T-Lego, is well aware of these points (likely the result of translating from Lego to Cada parts for production), but other customers may benefit from these suggestions and I'd be curious to know if others here have had a similar experience. I'll start with the minor stuff first.

1. I personally don't mind the Cada solution to the gauge cluster, but I didn't like the dark grey and have switched it back to black. The removable winder for the HOG steering and front ride height also benefits from a colour change from tan to black.

QnDlrap.jpeg

 

2. Differing mold types required red pins connecting the flex axles for the door-windows, which I've switched back to black Lego pins (they are also not in full click position, which happens in a couple of places in the model). A major fragile area here though was the headrests on the seats, which kept falling off whenever I operated the doors. So I've reduced the height of each headrest by one stud (using a black 1x2 ingot to retain the hollow area).

AUrBx5V.jpeg

 

3. The small section at the center top rear of the engine cover (just behind the Italian flag) was incredibly fragile, popping off constantly, so a redesign here is needed to use a bit more Technic and a bit less System for a stronger connection. This change (along with point 6 below) also allows the engine cover to be lifted by gripping here instead of having to grab the fenders from each side.

cB20kXT.jpeg

 

4. A final fragile section is the System-built insert at the rear between the diffuser flaps. Filling in some of the hollow area inside and behind this helps to prevent the section from collapsing and falling off when bumped. (I don't remember where I got this printed tile, but it looks appropriate here.)

lDFDMep.jpeg

 

5. My biggest initial disappointment with the set was finding that the brilliant steering and dynamic suspension on the front axle couldn't be properly enjoyed or shown off because the front wheels were immediately hitting the wheel wells at both the front and rear. At the front an easy fix is to add a spacer as seen below (I've used a silver #11010 ring, but a half bush should work too). At the rear I replaced the red 6L axles holding the red tail-fins with 5L axles (or 2L + 3L axles and a red axle joiner). This lets this whole section be angled outwards a little more without popping off the #15068 2x2 slope behind it.

NM2fQe2.jpeg   GIYe4Lq.jpeg

 

6. The other major issue I had was with the overall stability and functioning of the engine cover. The panel-work is impressive but the whole thing was very flimsy and would drop by about 15-20degrees after being fully opened. I found an easy fix is to use 3mm rigid hose to connect the top-left and -right sections to the central top section of the hinge assembly. There is only a small initial difference in alignment, and it was this gap that would enlarge greatly with the sagging of the opened engine cover. With this fix the engine cover stays fully up when opened and feels much more sturdy to operate.

aYFm6e6.jpeg

 

The designer, TLego, spoke of a possible V3 version which may implement fixes for most or all of these points, but with the current V2 edition the above should give you some idea of what you may want to modify. I should also reiterate that I think this is a fantastic overall build, and I am very happy it has been made available in mass-produced form at an affordable price.

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@BrickMonkeyMOCs 

Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts and modifications - It is greatly appreciated!:thumbup:  I fully agree with you and, of course, I am well aware of the mentioned flaws. 

I do want to elaborate on the sagging engine cover: In many cases, this occurs because of incorrect orientation of the tri-connector as illustrated here:

attention%20point%20engine%20cover.png

 

I do recommend trying to re-establish the encircled connection below, which the R&D department removed.  The red pin connector would clash with their new panels, which don't have the half-stud gap below the #13/14 panel. This will add some needed rigidity in the engine cover. A fix for this is included in my V3 as well, but I currently cannot provide a better illustration unfortunately. 

 

attention%20point%202%20engine%20cover.png 

 

 

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15 hours ago, T Lego said:

Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts and modifications - It is greatly appreciated!:thumbup:  I fully agree with you and, of course, I am well aware of the mentioned flaws. 

You're welcome, and thanks for your reply. It's great that you are still happy to support customers so long after the set has released.

15 hours ago, T Lego said:

I do want to elaborate on the sagging engine cover: In many cases, this occurs because of incorrect orientation of the tri-connector as illustrated here:

Yes, you are right! I had that part built incorrectly. Unfortunately, fixing this still didn't really help with the sagging of the engine cover, so I've reinstalled the 3mm rigid hose connection. This continues to add a lot of rigidity to the engine cover, however it then started coming apart at the axle connections underneath the black liftarms framing the engine window. What is needed to prevent this is a connection from these liftarms to the connection points below (towards the flag-end of the window). See below:

bnQM9e3.png

I've found two possible solutions to this, one purist and one not. The purist solution uses 15100.jpgplus 3L pins (in place of the 3/4 pins). This works, but pushes the tip of each red panel above slightly upwards so it doesn't sit flush with the black liftarm framing the window.

 

The non-purist solution fixes this, using 87618.jpg instead, with the long end pushing through the center of each 3/4 pin below. The non-purist part is that the extending long ends need to be cut short to avoid hitting the engine below. Here's a picture of this solution implemented along with the 3mm rigid hose reconnected at the top of the engine window (I'll be swapping the cut grey bars to black as soon as I can get some):

 

7jBy7Rw.jpeg

 

Edited by BrickMonkeyMOCs

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My NifeliZ custom wheel finally rims arrived, so I can now share pics of my completed CaDa version of the La Ferrari, alongside my lightly modified Sian also sporting NifeliZ wheels. Everything on the La Ferrari is now sturdy and functions perfectly. The wheel rims look great and are of high quality (they do sit maybe a couple of mm wider than the originals, so I had to replace the #11010 spacers I'd inserted earlier with Technic half bushes so the tires won't rub the front fenders when steering). I couldn't be happier with how both models now look.

rqfWqzo.jpeg   QPRD6Mc.jpeg

9KMxuPi.jpeg   m8z9MDZ.jpeg

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21 hours ago, Ahbao1983 said:

finally i joined the family.

amazing design.

here's my chromed out laferrari

Very impressive. That's a lot of chrome! Was it expensive to do? I'm not sure I would have chromed the seats, but the exterior is amazing. The tire printing also adds a lot. Is that something you've done yourself? The front fenders are different too - are they Cada parts?

Edited by BrickMonkeyMOCs

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