Running 60337 on 9V+ (with FX R88)

[Sunil766]

Folks,

as a quick sunday afternoon layout I tried to see how fast I can run the new 60337. Or any new train if you will, but I used this one.

With the help of this topic to set up the transformers in series, I built an oval with FX Tracks' R88 curves. The outside edge is elevated by a full brick; 1 brick per track element (actually at the connecting point for additional stability, as it previously teared apart two pieces, leading to a catastrophic derailing ), with 2 straight pieces providing a ramp up/down with 1 and 2 plates respectively) and I used switches to address the loop's movement due to the inerta - with limited success, as you can see.

I didn't do any fancy comparison to "just" 9V or "just" 1 motor and I didn't keep track of how much voltage I applied for which take - so feel free to just enjoy the train running fast   (or feel free to calculate the real and lego-scale speed: The straights were 22 track pieces each á 16 studs)

If I looked correctly, the speed regulators have 6 distinct steps, considering 1 step equals 1.5V, this would mean that overall at 13.5V ([full speed] + [setting 3]) things started to get tense or to lead to crashes. Let's say it wasn't sustainable anymore at that point.

Let me know what you think and enjoy!

https://youtu.be/vWG_I64oi28

(PS: Youtube is still processing HD. Should be 1080p60)

Edited July 25, 2022 by Sunil766

[zephyr1934]

What a fun little experiment. For the sake of common viewers, is the train stable at full speed on one controller, without banked curves? If no, does banking the curves solve the problem?

Now for the more nefarious viewers, show closeups of the train leaving the track, with lots of angles and slowmo (AlmightyArjen is an inspiration for anyone who does not mind permanently damaging their lego trains). Also, having something to brace the track and keep it from sliding as the train goes around the curves might help, e.g., a low lego structure that pushes against the wall or furniture.

Looks like fun stuff.

 

[XG BC]

stupid question but did you remove the powered up battery box beforehand? that adds to a worse cg thus leading to crashes.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

I love this video and the 9 volt is a beast!

 

[Sunil766]

On 7/25/2022 at 5:34 PM, zephyr1934 said:

is the train stable at full speed on one controller, without banked curves? 

Absolutely. Even with the R72s.

1) Even when using 2 motors.

2) Even when using two motors with two controllers in parallel - shouldn't make much a difference in theory but I noticed quite some difference, also to be noted in my other video around time 00:18.

On 7/25/2022 at 5:34 PM, zephyr1934 said:

Now for the more nefarious viewers, show closeups of the train leaving the track, with lots of angles and slowmo (AlmightyArjen is an inspiration for anyone who does not mind permanently damaging their lego trains).

I know some of his videos (mainly the large 9v setups with a bit of automation) and love them. The crashing however... Hurts my feelings ;-) but it's entertaining. I wouldn't crash often on purpose just for the sake of different angles though and most of my 9v trains are dear to me, at least until I can pass 'em on. 

On 7/25/2022 at 10:35 PM, XG BC said:

stupid question but did you remove the powered up battery box beforehand? that adds to a worse cg thus leading to crashes.

Uhm, you're right. One was removed and in the other loco was my rechargeable PF box. So... Room for improvement. :-)

21 hours ago, LEGO Train 12 Volts said:

I love this video and the 9 volt is a beast!

Thanks all for your feedback. Main reason I shoot these videos (and so there's another, additional sense and gratification in building layouts) 

[zephyr1934]

19 hours ago, Sunil766 said:

Absolutely. Even with the R72s.

1) Even when using 2 motors.

2) Even when using two motors with two controllers in parallel - shouldn't make much a difference in theory but I noticed quite some difference, also to be noted in my other video around time 00:18.

Good to hear, and also neat is your experimental approach- you are willing to risk danger but not seek it out. I'm the same way with my trains at shows. I know that every now and then something will fall off the table, but I do not seek it out.

[Brickander Brickumnus]

This is very exciting and interesting!

Besides the electric metal tracks, which other LEGO parts did you use to make this work?

I recently bought a brand new sealed 60337 Express Passenger Train at a big discount (my first ever LEGO train! ) and I'm trying to figure out how I can make it run without batteries, but with AC-DC current directly from wall.

Edited February 5, 2023 by Brickander Brickumnus

[Sunil766]

On 2/5/2023 at 12:56 AM, Brickander Brickumnus said:

This is very exciting and interesting!

Besides the electric metal tracks, which other LEGO parts did you use to make this work?

I recently bought a brand new sealed 60337 Express Passenger Train at a big discount (my first ever LEGO train! ) and I'm trying to figure out how I can make it run without batteries, but with AC-DC current directly from wall.

Oh boy, welcome to the 9v world! 

First off, you have two ways of achieving your goal:

1) power functions with rechargeable battery box. I have 1 of those and they're quite expensive, but have a great power delivery (basically constant output power until empty). Advantage: you don't need metal tracks. But if I read a few comments correctly, power functions equipment starts getting more expensive now that they're discontinued. Oh, and you always need quite some space in your loco for the battery box and the infrared receiver. (since you're new to the game: the battery box and motor connect to the ir receiver, which you then control via remote) 

2) 9v - old (however being revived these days thanks to fx bricks' effort), reliable, convenient. You need the metal track, a 9v motor (with those metal wheels), a power feeder cable, and a speed regulator. Which again needs a power supply to the wall. 

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=4548-1#T=S&O={"iconly":0}

Look on the 2nd hand market for those pieces or get one of the cheaper 9v train sets that had those included e.g. 4559.

The original track pieces (16 studs long) are pretty expensive though, mostly at or above 3€/piece, and you never know what life they had and in which condition they come. I do suggest directly getting into fx track as they're new, high quality and 32 studs long (fewer connection joints mean less resistance along the track and more juice for your train). When I got out of my dark ages and heavily into 9v trains 3 years ago, I researched like crazy for long gone alternative experiments to replace original metal track pieces until, and I couldn't believe it, fx track actually came out with their new track pieces. It's great, but unbelievable (and low probability?) to me that reviving this 30 year old system is viable at all. Anyway, lucky us! 

9v provides endless hours of fun for very cheap and much much much less environmental footprint. 

I hope this is useful information for you. Feel free to ask any follow up questions! 

Best 

[Brickander Brickumnus]

On 2/7/2023 at 10:38 AM, Sunil766 said:

Oh boy, welcome to the 9v world! 

First off, you have two ways of achieving your goal:

1) power functions with rechargeable battery box. I have 1 of those and they're quite expensive, but have a great power delivery (basically constant output power until empty). Advantage: you don't need metal tracks. But if I read a few comments correctly, power functions equipment starts getting more expensive now that they're discontinued. Oh, and you always need quite some space in your loco for the battery box and the infrared receiver. (since you're new to the game: the battery box and motor connect to the ir receiver, which you then control via remote) 

2) 9v - old (however being revived these days thanks to fx bricks' effort), reliable, convenient. You need the metal track, a 9v motor (with those metal wheels), a power feeder cable, and a speed regulator. Which again needs a power supply to the wall. 

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=4548-1#T=S&O={"iconly":0}

Look on the 2nd hand market for those pieces or get one of the cheaper 9v train sets that had those included e.g. 4559.

The original track pieces (16 studs long) are pretty expensive though, mostly at or above 3€/piece, and you never know what life they had and in which condition they come. I do suggest directly getting into fx track as they're new, high quality and 32 studs long (fewer connection joints mean less resistance along the track and more juice for your train). When I got out of my dark ages and heavily into 9v trains 3 years ago, I researched like crazy for long gone alternative experiments to replace original metal track pieces until, and I couldn't believe it, fx track actually came out with their new track pieces. It's great, but unbelievable (and low probability?) to me that reviving this 30 year old system is viable at all. Anyway, lucky us! 

9v provides endless hours of fun for very cheap and much much much less environmental footprint. 

I hope this is useful information for you. Feel free to ask any follow up questions! 

Best 

Thanks a lot for all this information!
It seems I have a lot of reading and studying to do.

So I need the ones below?

1. Electric, Train Motor 9V with Wheels
2. Electric, Train Track Contacts with Wire and 2 x 2 x 2/3 Brick
3. Electric, Train Speed Regulator 9V
4. Electric, Train Speed Regulator 9V (12 VAC) Power Adapter 120V 60Hz

The Power Adapter needs to be exactly this? Or can I use any aftermarket one?


For tracks, I was thinking of trying this trick (since I may be able to get set 60205 City Trains: Tracks for half a price and I need few tracks at the moment):

 

 

Edited February 14, 2023 by Brickander Brickumnus

[Brickblock1]

On 2/14/2023 at 12:45 AM, Brickander Brickumnus said:

The Power Adapter needs to be exactly this? Or can I use any aftermarket one?

Any aftermarket one with the same plug and voltage should work but I doubt that the one you found would work in Greece as it is an American plug. 

[Sunil766]

On 2/14/2023 at 12:45 AM, Brickander Brickumnus said:

For tracks, I was thinking of trying this trick (since I may be able to get set 60205 City Trains: Tracks for half a price and I need few tracks at the moment):

Isn't there a video of him saying he wouldn't do it again? 

I mean be my guest to try it, I just know I'd be happier with the proper tracks. I rediscovered the 20y old tracks in my mom's basement and was more than happy that they could be refurbished to a near new state. That durability is something I appreciate and happily spend some bucks on. 

Your list of components is correct though. 

Best

[Brickander Brickumnus]

On 3/4/2023 at 12:10 PM, Sunil766 said:

Isn't there a video of him saying he wouldn't do it again? 

There is?
So he changed his mind?

I haven't seen it.

On 2/15/2023 at 10:34 AM, Brickblock1 said:

Any aftermarket one with the same plug and voltage should work but I doubt that the one you found would work in Greece as it is an American plug. 

Besides the 9V Voltage, does the Ampere need to be also the same?