Berthil

[MOC] Union Pacific Big Boy 4014, free building instructions

Recommended Posts

@BillytheKid This is because of the limited torque of the PU small motors unfortunately. It has trouble to get moving so it seems only one speed is possible although the motor is running on the different speeds. see the earlier remark of Toastie, I wan't aware of this. It's on my to-do list to see if I can get two PU L-motors in, they have a lot more torque.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Berthil, I just bought 2 motors of €40,- and they can't be used.......? I need 2 motors which I can use at different speeds with the Batterybox of Powered Up. And those 88008 can do that? Before I order again €40,- without knowing if it will work?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, BillytheKid said:

@Berthil, I just bought 2 motors of €40,- and they can't be used.......? I need 2 motors which I can use at different speeds with the Batterybox of Powered Up. And those 88008 can do that? Before I order again €40,- without knowing if it will work?

I don't know if the 88008 can do that as I didn't try that yet. Sometimes it can help to read all the posts in a topic. I expect it will run at different speeds with the 88008
In any case, this train will be a battery drainer because of its size, probably also with the 88008. You could try to switch to PF and use the rechargeable 8878 battery box if you have those lying around.

When I have more time I want to add a UP SD70 to my setup to aid the Big Boy. The plan is to have them controlled by one PU system with Pybricks that will work together at lower and higher speeds for smooth running like in real life.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, BillytheKid said:

I just bought 2 motors of €40,- and they can't be used.......? I need 2 motors which I can use at different speeds with the Batterybox of Powered Up. And those 88008 can do that? Before I order again €40,- without knowing if it will work?

@BillytheKid: Power wise, the 88008's will most probably do. They are geared down, but that only adds to the aesthetics of the Big Boy, doesn't it? Or do you want to go really fast?

With regard to the power stepping: You are using the City hub (#88009) with the PUp remote (#88010) and no smart device, is that correct? If so, and as far as I know, in this configuration, there is no way to step the power up and down (from 0 to 7) using any of the PUp motors other than the PUp train motor (#88011). At least this holds true for the PUp motors with tacho, and 88008 is one of them. Same with 88013, the PUp L motor.

With all PUp motors (except 88011) the PUp remote acts as "bang-bang" controller: It is either off, full forward (+ button) or full reverse (- button). As you most certainly do not want to use the train motor for the Big Boy, one way out is to make a little program in the PowereUp app - which means you need to use a smart device. You can then either use the smart device to control the motor power setting, or you not only pair the City hub, but also the remote in the PUp app program. Then you capture the +/- button activations of the remote in your program and translate that to power increase/decrease steps for the motor. I believe there are many examples out there, how to do that.

If you don't want to use a smart device "in between", but only remote and hub, then you have to use third party software, e.g. PyBricks or the like, to enable power stepping. 

 

This is just copied from my post above, in case you missed that:

On 7/26/2022 at 11:39 PM, Toastie said:

Now, I would not do that. Instead, I would go for two PUp motors with built-in rotation sensors; these would be the PUp medium motor (#88008) or the PUp L motor (#88013). Then use the PUp app to control the motors using the "set speed" (not "set power") programming blocks. What this does, is: You set speed to 5%. The hub then rapidly increases power to the motor to maintain that very speed, may even go to 100% power. When the loco begins to move (has overcome friction forces) it will certainly lower power, but you won't notice that, as it does that automatically. You can also select acceleration/deceleration profiles. And, if you don't want to use the app as a controlling device, you can pair the PUp remote and the PUp hub with the PUp app. You need to write a little program that translates pressing the remote buttons into increase or decrease speed - i.e. by 5% per +/- button press. 

Best,
Thorsten

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, Toastie said:

If you don't want to use a smart device "in between", but only remote and hub, then you have to use third party software, e.g. PyBricks or the like, to enable power stepping.

Thanks Thorsten for your excellent answer. It did not cross my mind Billy is trying to use the out-of-the-box (dis)functionality of the remote with the hub and without device.

On Rebrickable I have posted the Pybricks program with power stepping at the time of publishing.

Edited by Berthil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Toastie, Thx for the information. I tried to make an own device at the app, but I don't how it works :ugh: . But I found out that with the Batman thing, I can control both motors with different speeds. When letting it go, the motors will stop. It works for now, but not a fine device to work with. Feels like a driver, who needs to control the train all the time it's running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, BillytheKid said:

@Toastie, Thx for the information. I tried to make an own device at the app, but I don't how it works :ugh: . But I found out that with the Batman thing, I can control both motors with different speeds. When letting it go, the motors will stop. It works for now, but not a fine device to work with. Feels like a driver, who needs to control the train all the time it's running.

Use the Pybricks, take my program, flash to the City Hub (tutorial on Pybricks.com) and you're ready to go. No device needed, train keeps running, 2 speed steps, emergency stop.
It's always possible to go back to the original LEGO firmware on the hub, very easy.

Edited by Berthil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the app at PoweredUp, use the batman device and you can control the PU small motors (used in building-instruction) with different speed. You need both hands to control both motors at same speed. You be like a real steam-engine-driver to work hard to keep this big beast going. Even a 2d person might be needed to keep an eye at what happens around the train :grin: .

Anyway, I'm want to show how far I'm with building progress. Building itself is slow, because I need build form an Iphone. I asked how much it cost to print it out at a printshop €150,- *huh* . That's half of budget of the train itself.

Anyway picture:

img_1055.jpg

To give an idea how big the bigboy actually is, I put set 7740 beside it. Than you realize how big this monster is. I do believe it will run smooth at track, curves and switches. The problem will be it's size........... Crossovers needs to be adjusted, etc.

Edited by BillytheKid

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good. You can use any color you like for the yellow parts as that isn't visible when finished (also stated in the description on Rebrickable).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw it, but I keep as you made it. For future, whatever happens :wink: . It was a big pile of parts before I started to build. When finished, I post a pic and maybe a movie here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look how massive this train is, compared with other trainsets:
img_1062.jpg

 

Looks odd, just made a mistake with not ordering the longest technic bricks for the 2d wheels :wall::

img_1063.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here 2 pictures how far the building progress is at the moment of the BigBoy 4014.

img_1106.jpg

img_1111.jpg

 

I put the Sante Fe beside it, to give you an idea how big and long the model is of the BigBoy 4014. Unfortunately it doesn't run that smooth in corners as shown in movie at YouTube. The front wheels can't move with the corners, so it derails. Needs to adjust that little problem.

Now this beast is almost build, it is a beast of a train. And Sante Fe is already big.......... Can't wait to make a movie when running at mine lay-out.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Little update about those medium linear 88008 motor 88008-1.t1.png. They have a little more torque, but are also slower. Compared with the WeDo 2.0 medium motor 21980.t1.png , I prefer the last one. Is also more compact to build in and trains can run faster.

I've also made/busy with an upgrade to transport the whole set itself easier. Whole idea is to remove the upper part easy with the gearpart still on the wheels:

img_1126.jpg

img_1127.jpg

I did this, because the train is so large it is difficult to pick it up and move it around.

Only I need to adjust the front wheels, because it derails in corners. And the connecting rods are also not running smooth, first things first. It will run like I want to :sweet: .

img_1125.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

On 9/28/2022 at 3:57 AM, BillytheKid said:

I've also made/busy with an upgrade to transport the whole set itself easier. Whole idea is to remove the upper part easy with the gearpart still on the wheels: 

img_1126.jpg

img_1127.jpg

I did this, because the train is so large it is difficult to pick it up and move it around.

Indeed, even the prototypes were monsters that were difficult to deal with in their day. You might want to do some tests under load. It looks like your bevel gears will only be held together by the weight of the boiler. I would imagine that could allow the gears to skip when pulling a heavy train around curves, and especially when running over uneven track. Slipping gears could cause stalling and wearing out of the gears more quickly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to pull the trigger on this.  Amazing model and the instructions are wonderful.  I'm not scared of pybricks.

Do we have some confirmation that the 88008 PU medium motor will work?  From @Toastie's comment above, it looks like this is the best option?  It does not look like the large motor will fit without modifying the boiler quite a lot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/2/2022 at 3:56 PM, zephyr1934 said:

It looks like your bevel gears will only be held together by the weight of the boiler.

The two under carriages have studs to hold on with via 4 x 4 round brick and attached turntable so not only by weight of the boiler.
 

2 hours ago, iragm said:

Do we have some confirmation that the 88008 PU medium motor will work

Haven't tested that but inside the boiler is 4 studs wide so should fit. Instruction are free so it is easy to have a look or do a small tryout with real bricks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Slowly working my way through building this; a couple of notes about the instructions:

Step 40-41 - I found it hard to spot where the 1x1's were going, they'd be better in a step on their own.
Step 196 - The 1:1 callout shows a 5xale but the diagram looks to be a 6 axle. I'm assuming a 6axle given that track is 6wide.
Step 198 - Again, 1:1 callout shows a 5 axle but the diagram looks to be a 6 axle.
Step 199 - Where does the black 2x2 plate go? I assumed it was under the 4x8 plate as there's a 2x2 space there and the other 1x2 technic bricks all have 2x2 plates atop them.
Step 201 - It wasn't immediately clear that the 3off black 1x4 plates go underneath, it might need one more step on the sub-assembly to illustrate that properly
Step 204 - I think the pin and pin/axle are the wrong way around to accept the L shaped liftarms a step or two later. Not difficult to work out and fix, but I went back to double-check that I hadn't got it wrong.
Step 207-209 - Ordering here is wrong, the L liftarms of step 209 need to have gone on earlier, otherwise the bluish-grey 1x1s of 207 block them.

Part 3065 - A 1x2 without pin in yellow. I couldn't work out where it was needed; everything could have been done with a standard 3004 1x2 with pin. Is this a case of the wrong brick picked by mistake in the digital tooling? I know that's something I've done before.

 

I'm still only about halfway through and running slightly out of order due to bricks I thought I'd ordered not being in the order, so there may be more later.

Putting together the instructions for something like this must be a Herculean task, take the above as constructive improvements rather than complaint. It's been great fun so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@The_Cook Thank you for your feedback! I think I have solved most of your mentioned points with the remark that it is not possible to change building steps anywhere without the need to rebuild all pages from that point on forward. As you already noticed, a Herculean task so can't make any step changes without starting over again.

Edited by Berthil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.