Building a small modular railroad layout

[verybricks]

I don't have a dedicated space for a train layout in my flat, so I set out to build a small modular layout that I could easily setup and tear down, or even bring to display somewhere else. I have been documenting the process so I figured a topic here could be nice to show and discuss my progress.

The plan

I wanted a couple loops, a yard to do some shunting, and an aera that could be a passenger station. So i came up with this layout made up of 8 modules, each 2x2 baseplates :

 

Ballast is very parts intensive, so I wanted to avoid MILS and went with 8mm MDF boards to secure the modules :

 

The result

It's small but still enough to operate a couple trains and have fun 😊. The sidings on the right can be used as an Inglenook shuntting puzzle.

 

The future

I plan on adding decorations, some buildings, some MOC trains and rolling stock. Also the MDF boards turned out to be not so practical, so I might end up with something else soon 

I will keep on sharing my progress in this topic, and you can also follow my posts on Instagram or Flickr

 

Edited February 23, 2022 by verybricks

[mostlytechnic]

Nice compact layout! That's a lot of bang for the space. I also like that you've got the track basically at the same location on all the panels. So if you needed to go even smaller, just leave out the straights on the short side of the oval. Going somewhere with more space? Add a couple more modules in any direction and make it a bit bigger. 

Curious - what didn't you like about the MDF underneath? 

Second question - I see you changed the switch layout for the sidings. Now you're stuck with a switch across the joint of sections. I liked the original layout that didn't need that. I'd be tempted to do the switch the way you have it in the diagram at the top and (*gasp*) cut the plain track pieces so your joints in the track are at the joint of the sections. 

[verybricks]

55 minutes ago, mostlytechnic said:

Nice compact layout! That's a lot of bang for the space. I also like that you've got the track basically at the same location on all the panels. So if you needed to go even smaller, just leave out the straights on the short side of the oval. Going somewhere with more space? Add a couple more modules in any direction and make it a bit bigger. 

Thanks for the kind words ! Yes that's the idea of the modules. I can for example just do the following 

58 minutes ago, mostlytechnic said:

Curious - what didn't you like about the MDF underneath? 

First, I didn't wanted to glue or screw the baseplates to keep them relatively reusable, so I used a bit of double sided tape, but it's not strong enough ; the baseplates tend to move when I assemble or disassemble the modules.

The connection between the modules is not very strong since it's only connected by the train tracks, so it doesn't work well on uneven surfaces.

You cannot take the modules appart in smaller pieces (think 32x32 baseplate size) which is not great to store or transport.

You cannot build "below" the baseplate level, for example to make a bridge crossing a river.

Those are only relatively small problems, but it was just annoying, so I took it all appart, started racking up bricks and plates, and will share the new modules soon 

58 minutes ago, mostlytechnic said:

Second question - I see you changed the switch layout for the sidings. Now you're stuck with a switch across the joint of sections. I liked the original layout that didn't need that. I'd be tempted to do the switch the way you have it in the diagram at the top and (*gasp*) cut the plain track pieces so your joints in the track are at the joint of the sections. 

The layout on the sidings is basically an inglenook shunting puzzle. The initial plan used the idea from here : https://www.bricksmcgee.com/blog/lego-track-geometry/ 

When I was building the modules, I went with the layout aligned with the studs of the baseplates to make it easier to build, and because I didn't have enough DBG tiles to support the tracks on an angle.

On the next iteration, I think I will try the initial layout, it will look cooler, especially if I can put some decoration and some kind of warehouse on the same angle.

[zephyr1934]

I like it, good work! One thought, to save space on the layout, you might want to consider the TrixBrix R40 yard ladder.

[verybricks]

19 minutes ago, zephyr1934 said:

I like it, good work! One thought, to save space on the layout, you might want to consider the TrixBrix R40 yard ladder.

Thanks ! Yes i have been considering it, same goes with the two cross over switches which are modified lego switches and could be replaced with a Trixbrix double cross over. I really prefer injection molded tracks, such as their R56 curves that I am already using, that's why I haven't made the switch (pun intended) yet.

Some day, I might go with a R104 yard with bricktracks switches though 

Edited February 23, 2022 by verybricks

[LegoDW]

See your issue, 36 to 40 MILS plates would be expensive.  Also to get adhesion to your MDF would need to permanently mount your base places.  You mentioned wanting to add buildings also. 

If it were me, think I would abandon ballasting the tracks and just set them directly on the floor.  Would start build buildings on your baseplates that would accommodate track on them or on the floor.  You would need a bookcase for shelf to store your baseplates with buildings, move them to the floor when you wanted to play with your trains.  Really hard to have a non permanent layout.  Lego track are great for setting up on the floor, playing with them for a bit, and then putting everything way.

 

What you have done does look great!

[dr_spock]

Our LUG don't have a permanent layout.  We basically assemble it at each public event.  In one design, the buildings weren't permanently mounted to baseplates.  We tiled spots for buildings to sit on.  Members brought buildings to drop in and take home afterwards.  Then we stacked and packed the baseplates with tracks.

[verybricks]

48 minutes ago, LegoDW said:

See your issue, 36 to 40 MILS plates would be expensive.

It's eventually not so bad 

48 minutes ago, LegoDW said:

If it were me, think I would abandon ballasting the tracks and just set them directly on the floor.  Would start build buildings on your baseplates that would accommodate track on them or on the floor.  You would need a bookcase for shelf to store your baseplates with buildings, move them to the floor when you wanted to play with your trains.  Really hard to have a non permanent layout.  Lego track are great for setting up on the floor, playing with them for a bit, and then putting everything way.

30 minutes ago, dr_spock said:

Our LUG don't have a permanent layout.  We basically assemble it at each public event.  In one design, the buildings weren't permanently mounted to baseplates.  We tiled spots for buildings to sit on.  Members brought buildings to drop in and take home afterwards.  Then we stacked and packed the baseplates with tracks.

That's basically what I used to do, and indeed lego is really good at that.

But I wanted to have something quick to setup but with still the possibility to add details like ballast and decoration around the tracks, hence the "macro" modules idea. Also I'm a software engineer so I like the idea to have reusable modules 

48 minutes ago, LegoDW said:

What you have done does look great!

Thanks ! 

[LegoDW]

On 2/24/2022 at 12:44 PM, verybricks said:

But I wanted to have something quick to setup but with still the possibility to add details like ballast and decoration around the tracks, hence the "macro" modules idea. Also I'm a software engineer so I like the idea to have reusable modules 

 

Ok, as you are planning on adding buildings (assuming roads also) think MISL plates are your best option.  Have concerns your wood MDF will eventually warp.  Aware MILS will be expensive, but think you will like the flexibly of this option.  , 

I

[verybricks]

On 2/26/2022 at 4:16 AM, LegoDW said:

Have concerns your wood MDF will eventually warp.  Aware MILS will be expensive, but think you will like the flexibly of this option.

That's a good point, it might eventually wrap, especially since I used quite thin sheets. I do agree I am expecting to like MILS 

Also today a quick update with the glorious crocodile, a bit tight on the R40s but it works just fine. I really love the power given by the motorization on this loco, can't wait to build some rolling stock for it !

[Merlict]

Taking notes here.. Think I need to accept that I can't have trains -and- a good little city in the space I have. 

So having a seperate train setup that can be stored away is probably best.

[XG BC]

19 hours ago, Merlict said:

Taking notes here.. Think I need to accept that I can't have trains -and- a good little city in the space I have. 

So having a seperate train setup that can be stored away is probably best.

wat about going narrow gauge or monorail or rollercoaster track based? this way the trains can take sharper curves thus not needing as much space

[Merlict]

On 3/11/2022 at 9:48 AM, XG BC said:

wat about going narrow gauge or monorail or rollercoaster track based? this way the trains can take sharper curves thus not needing as much space

I haven't really seen a 'home made' monorail setup that I like, but I might have a tram that shuttles back and forwards or something. 

[verybricks]

Here's my latest bricklink haul for the new modules 

[verybricks]

I started building MILS modules:

Here are the first 16 modules that will be used for the corners :

 

Building MILS modules is repetitive, but I find it actually relaxing just like ballasting