BlueStar1 Posted January 17, 2022 Hello! I would like to ask some questions about the Mold King Powered Module: What is the nominal output voltage on a Mold King Powered Module 4.0 and a 6.0? What are the capabilities of a Mold King Powered Module compared to a Buwizz? What is the range of the remote control? In a Mold King Powered Module 4.0, I saw that there was a 7.4v battery. Can this be replaced by a 12v battery, and would this make sense? Thank you for your help, BlueStar1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amorti Posted January 17, 2022 (edited) You're in the wrong place, buddy. Come join us Darksiders over here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/435499980976191 Edited January 17, 2022 by amorti Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2GodBDGlory Posted January 17, 2022 I just got a 6.0 a couple days ago, so I can give you a bit of info on it: I'd assume the nominal voltage is the standard 2S lithium voltage of 7.4V, but I tested it (at full charge) with my multimeter at about 8.4V. Compared to a Buwizz, the Mould King 6.0 has two more ports than the older Buwizzes, and 6X PF outputs compared to 2X PF and 4X PU outputs on the 3.0. It can be controlled from a physical controller with proportional control on four channels via two joysticks and non-proportional control on two channels through bumpers. This has 2.4 GHz connection, I would assume, because it requires a connection step. Alternately, it can be controlled through the Mould King app from a phone, allowing for some very basic programmability, and for proportional control on all six channels. It should also be noted that the remote has a rechargeable battery charged through USB, rather than replaceable batteries. The output voltage of the Mould King hub is nominally only 66% of that of Buwizz, and (from what I've seen) only runs one buggy motor, as opposed to the claimed two of the Buwizz 3.0. Also, the Mould King hub has six electrical contacts per channel, as opposed to four all throughout the PF system and Buwizz, and similar to the PU system. Theoretically, this should allow for support of smart servos and sensor inputs, but no hardware yet exists for this. I haven't tested the range, but being 2.4GHz I'd assume it's pretty good. I've never had issues with it losing connection. I like the idea of replacing the battery with something higher voltage, since I'd love something with 11-12V and proportional remote control at a price lower than a Buwizz, but I'm not sure how it would be done. I'm not sure where you'd find a battery of the correct size and voltage, but if you could, and the electronic components could handle it, it'd be a pretty cool controller! I hope this helps! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amorti Posted January 17, 2022 2S is correct. 7.2v nominal is right but it's normal for those to give 8.4v with a fresh charge. When you're running a properly fast model (My RC bike has been tested at around 20km/h) then you'll run out of range quick enough. BW3 has Bluetooth 5.0, which ought to be better. There are some German users who got pretty involved in changing the power cells. I think 10.4v LifePo was the easiest way to go, but you can also use a 3S LiPo with a voltage reducer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2GodBDGlory Posted January 17, 2022 29 minutes ago, amorti said: There are some German users who got pretty involved in changing the power cells. I think 10.4v LifePo was the easiest way to go, but you can also use a 3S LiPo with a voltage reducer. Sounds interesting! Could you point me towards some more information on this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FriedlS Posted January 17, 2022 1 hour ago, amorti said: 2S is correct. 7.2v nominal is right but it's normal for those to give 8.4v with a fresh charge. When you're running a properly fast model (My RC bike has been tested at around 20km/h) then you'll run out of range quick enough. BW3 has Bluetooth 5.0, which ought to be better. There are some German users who got pretty involved in changing the power cells. I think 10.4v LifePo was the easiest way to go, but you can also use a 3S LiPo with a voltage reducer. Oh really? Never heard about it. Where do you read it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2GodBDGlory Posted January 17, 2022 (edited) Wow, that was a very in-depth mod in the video! Not quite what I'm looking for, but still interesting. Thanks for sharing it! Do you have any idea where people were buying these 10.4V batteries? I can't seem to find any for sale. Edited January 17, 2022 by 2GodBDGlory Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_spock Posted January 21, 2022 You can try your local RC hobby shop. If you're ok with waiting, aliexpress.com. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueStar1 Posted January 21, 2022 Thank you for all these answers! In amorti's video, you can see that the 7.4v battery is connected to a motherboard. Could the motherboard control the charge level of the battery? In this case, we would not know when the battery is charged or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_spock Posted January 21, 2022 There are battery management boards available to control the charging. They also keep the battery from overcharging and over discharging. Both which are not so good for lithium type batteries. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueStar1 Posted January 21, 2022 OK, but how could this management board change the flashing of the green LED to indicate full charge? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2GodBDGlory Posted January 21, 2022 14 hours ago, dr_spock said: You can try your local RC hobby shop. If you're ok with waiting, aliexpress.com. I was looking on Ali, but I really wasn't finding anything at 10.4V other than maybe a laptop battery or two. It just doesn't seem like a common voltage, but I guess there must be something out there! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aFrInaTi0n Posted January 21, 2022 One of my observations: MK has a greater range with the hardware transmitter than the MK App / the Buwizz 3.0. Reason here will be the limitation at the side of smartphone antenna-design (tested with two Samsung Smartphones, S7 and S20 FE) or I would even point towards radio radiation regulations, only allowing smartphones to give a certian maximum output to not give harm to humans. As in the video shown, the "mainboard" (receiver + drivers for the channels) will support up to roughly 11 Volts, but you need to take into consideration to also have a fitting BMS (battery management system) which knows about 3 cells to charge them seperately. Next question which would come to my mind: Would it be possible - or how long would it take - to have the regular voltage of the 5V / 500mAh charging those 3 cells up? One thing I could think of in regard of doing battery replacement is: Opening the MK4 box, leaving only the top for having lego studs there as supports for the connectors and maybe glueing both parts together. Cutting off the connector from the BMS (or searching replacements of fitting connector in the internet or finding one from old IT hardware like fans) and soldering it to a regular rc-hobbies-compatible connector to plug it in a regular 3c battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueStar1 Posted February 28, 2022 (edited) I'm asking this question a little late, but: Le 17/01/2022 à 15:59, 2GodBDGlory a dit : Je viens de recevoir un 6.0 il y a quelques jours, donc je peux vous donner un peu d'informations à ce sujet Are you satisfied with it? I'm hesitating to buy a mold king 4.0 Edited February 28, 2022 by BlueStar1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2GodBDGlory Posted February 28, 2022 1 minute ago, BlueStar1 said: I'm asking this question a little late, but: Are you satisfied with it? I'm hesitating to buy a mold king 4.0 Yeah, I am really happy with it! The proportional control from a dedicated controller is amazing, it's rechargeable (so is the controller!), and it's not too expensive. The only cautions I would have are these: 1. To fully utilize the proportional abilities, you need a Servo that supports it, and the only options I know of are old (expensive) original Lego servos, and older Mould King ones. Apparently they stopped making the proportional ones at some point, and while you may be able to find some seller on AliExpress who still has some old ones, it could be a shot in the dark. 2. I was doing some unusual stuff with my controller (I'm using it in a 3D-printed/lego/RC shell RC car at the moment, until I need it again for Lego, with 3D-printed PF plugs running generic motors off of this controller), and at the time I was having troubles with getting the remote to connect to the hub. I've worked out some kinks in the car now (it was having electrical issues in the custom parts), and I haven't had the problem again, so it's hard to say whether this issue is something I caused or not. Anyways, I wouldn't worry too much about it, because of the weird circumstances, and the fact that it has seemed to stop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shroomzofdoom Posted October 4, 2022 Anyone have issues with pairing the MK6.0 and the remote? Or know the button press sequence to re-pair them? I just picked one up and...no joy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kladovec Posted December 30, 2022 Hello guys, I´d like to to ask. If or how works two or more MK Power module 6 in one MOC. Is it even posible to control 12 or more functions/motors simultaneously? Has anyone tried it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DKTechnik Posted October 19, 2023 I see nobody write in this old topic , but if someone experiment with this two controllers with battery change mod to 11,1V please write . My desire is to buy one of the two models, but to make it run on a 11.1V battery. Which of the two models do you think is better? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2GodBDGlory Posted February 17 (edited) [EDIT] This might not be such a great idea; I tried it, but it doesn't seem to have a proper amperage output, so motors stall easily, causing the battery to squeal a bit. I'll be going back to the original battery Not much action on here, but today I got thinking that an easy performance upgrade to do to this hub would be to drop in a USB-rechargeable 9V lithium battery, like one of these, to up voltage from 7.4 to 9.0. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08D925V8H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I think all you'd have to do would be solder a 9V battery plate (scavenged from an old alkaline 9V, most likely) to a couple Dupont jumper wires with a female end, and then plug that into the correct spots on the original internal wire. I'm not sure what would happen if you tried charging it from the normal port, and I certainly wouldn't try it, so unless you want to unscrew the battery box every time, I'd also recommend cutting a hole in the side of the case to allow for charging the 9V battery off of its USB port. It wouldn't be a huge power jump, but I think it could easily be worth the effort, especially if you already have this type of 9V battery just lying around, and it wouldn't even have to be permanent (other than the hole in the side of the case), since you could always drop the original battery back in. Thoughts? On 10/19/2023 at 8:55 AM, DKTechnik said: I see nobody write in this old topic , but if someone experiment with this two controllers with battery change mod to 11,1V please write . My desire is to buy one of the two models, but to make it run on a 11.1V battery. Which of the two models do you think is better? From the research I did, it was concluded that 10V was about the safe maximum for these to run at, and 11.1V would burn it out, unfortunately Edited February 17 by 2GodBDGlory Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
