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If I were doing this, I'd probably just design and 3D print a bunch of these weight parts in two halves that can be glued together, with designed-in slots to put nuts or washers inside them. I might even try making weights that are twice the height of the stock ones, to enable more metal to be put on the inside relative to surface area

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28 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

If I were doing this, I'd probably just design and 3D print a bunch of these weight parts in two halves that can be glued together, with designed-in slots to put nuts or washers inside them. I might even try making weights that are twice the height of the stock ones, to enable more metal to be put on the inside relative to surface area

I like your idea. I think 3D printed shells made of 2 pieces + concrete poured inside = success. Finally, I would remove 3D printed shells to have concrete exposed. 

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32 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

If I were doing this, I'd probably just design and 3D print a bunch of these weight parts in two halves that can be glued together, with designed-in slots to put nuts or washers inside them. I might even try making weights that are twice the height of the stock ones, to enable more metal to be put on the inside relative to surface area

Once I finally get this set, that was my plan. 3D print blanks and fill with something heavy. If done correctly, they would look nicer than the true LEGO piece and work better. 

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Does anyone know how well the set sells at the Lego Store? I went to mine and not many were sold it seems. 

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51 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

If I were doing this, I'd probably just design and 3D print a bunch of these weight parts in two halves that can be glued together, with designed-in slots to put nuts or washers inside them. I might even try making weights that are twice the height of the stock ones, to enable more metal to be put on the inside relative to surface area

This is a good idea if you have access to 3D printer. I'd also make them twice the height for the reason you mentioned.

Cast fully metallic counterweight pieces with the same shape/size as the Lego ones would look great though, while being more than heavy enough. It's hard to make them with enough accuracy though, as the shrinkage in various stages of the process will affect the result - not that the official ones seem to be very accurately molded either...

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15 hours ago, merman said:

Does anyone know how well the set sells at the Lego Store? I went to mine and not many were sold it seems. 

I've seen people who bought it there, but most don't buy at the Lego store. As it's 543€ constantly from 3rd party sellers, and still 680€ in Lego store. So for 5% VIP points you're still paying 100€ to much there.

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17 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

If I were doing this, I'd probably just design and 3D print a bunch of these weight parts in two halves that can be glued together, with designed-in slots to put nuts or washers inside them. I might even try making weights that are twice the height of the stock ones, to enable more metal to be put on the inside relative to surface area

This has got me thinking. I think I have some left over lead flashing in the shed, easy to cut with tin snips. I could get some grey PLA filament, though I have some in yellow already, make them twice as tall and cut rectangles of lead flashing to fit inside.

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Finished my initial build. My observations: the instructions are good but fall short of great. There are a few instances of failure to clearly show positioning of parts, and as noted in an earlier post, they lack Lego's older method of including a template on each page of the sizes of beams used. There were also several small parts left over, which is better than being shorted parts but still indicates quality issues in packaging. The build is easy and there were no problems. Again, as someone mentioned stringing the line for the hook is a bit fiddly, and the first time I did the set up with the app, something went awry and it resulted in uneven winding on one spool, requiring a re-do. Two areas I was not pleased with: the operators cabin is pretty funky when compared to other Lego sets and the grid plates over the crane motors are uneven and look bad, IMHO. It's one area I plan to re-do in the future.

Operating with the app works great though I agree the crane turns way too fast for a machine of this nature. I did not try it on carpet, but it ran OK on a large area rug. While I would have liked to have the boom a bit longer in length, I'm not losing any sleep over the matter. Same thing for the width of the tracks - wider would have been more appropriate but I can live with it as is.  

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Someone parted out +50 of these so there are loads of "counterweights" for sale on BL for 5.30EUR/each

(The idiot is screwing up the priceguide and are most likely in violation of TLG's terms but that's another story)

Interestingly enough, the thousand trusses are NOT for sale ...

Cheers,

Ole

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22 minutes ago, 1974 said:

(The idiot is screwing up the priceguide and are most likely in violation of TLG's terms but that's another story)

Why is that so?

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1 hour ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

Why is that so?

Lets say that today the only God is Juno Moneta

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My hook stops halfway!

If you look at Liebherr's documentation and use the lower structure as a reference, the Lego upper structure is only 45 till 55% of the original.

I have extended the booms to 85% and therefore also had to use longer ropes. The calibration in the app seemed to work fine with those longer booms&ropes.
The app works well with the longer booms&ropes, except for the hook. During calibration, the app rolled up the longer rope completely. When I use the app now to pull the hook, the motor stops halfway. Even the joystick in de app will not move up anymore. Down still works. Then you can again pull the hook till halfway.

Even in the REcalibration of the hook (separate option in the app), everything seems fine, but the problem remains. Has someone the same problem?

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7 hours ago, Lego Tom said:

There were also several small parts left over, which is better than being shorted parts but still indicates quality issues in packaging.

If you're referring to pins, bushings, etc., having them leftover is intentional as the part counting machines are not accurate enough to reliably separate the smallest parts, so they rather add a bit extra than have a part missing. Those parts are also most likely to go missing while building, so including some extra will go a long way to ensure customer satisfaction.

2 hours ago, 1974 said:

Interestingly enough, the thousand trusses are NOT for sale ...

Guess: someone with way too much money wanted those truss parts in large quantity for some project and didn't need the counterweight parts so they put the counterweights for sale.

I could think of better uses for the money but then, who am I to judge others for the ways they use their money...

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Part is gone as I reported the sale to BL. There's still heaps of motors and the grey triangle parts though ...

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Regarding small leftover parts, I believe their counting machines are highly accurate. I have purchased several hundred sets, and to this day I have never experienced a single missing part, also the leftover parts are the same as in "official" lists (BL etc.), never missing anything. Perhaps somebody have other experience? I think the main reason for these extra parts, as howitzer also mention, is simply to ensure customer satisfacton. The extra parts are the ones most likely being lost during the building process.

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There have been "leftover" parts since day one in the Technic theme. My first set was the 850, that had a few pins and bushings extra

(No, I don't remember but I bought a MISB one years ago)

Better for TLG to put a few extra bits in than to have the builder call CS to complain :thumbup:

I too never had any parts missing (+3000 sets) , but I did get a shortshot arch in the 6067 and that made me go :pir-bawling: when I was a wee lad

 

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1 hour ago, Pruimke said:

My hook stops halfway!

If you look at Liebherr's documentation and use the lower structure as a reference, the Lego upper structure is only 45 till 55% of the original.

I have extended the booms to 85% and therefore also had to use longer ropes. The calibration in the app seemed to work fine with those longer booms&ropes.
The app works well with the longer booms&ropes, except for the hook. During calibration, the app rolled up the longer rope completely. When I use the app now to pull the hook, the motor stops halfway. Even the joystick in de app will not move up anymore. Down still works. Then you can again pull the hook till halfway.

Even in the REcalibration of the hook (separate option in the app), everything seems fine, but the problem remains. Has someone the same problem?

Guess the app can't deal with longer rope then. Good to know for those of us also wanting to try different configurations.

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2 hours ago, howitzer said:

If you're referring to pins, bushings, etc., having them leftover is intentional as the part counting machines are not accurate enough to reliably separate the smallest parts, so they rather add a bit extra than have a part missing. Those parts are also most likely to go missing while building, so including some extra will go a long way to ensure customer satisfaction.

 

They are indeed small parts. Such as an extra clear and red lens, and a variety of pins and bushings. I've had a couple left overs with other kits but this one had 44, with nearly half of them being black pins (always handy to have!).

1 hour ago, pleegwat said:

Guess the app can't deal with longer rope then. Good to know for those of us also wanting to try different configurations.

Perhaps because of the self test unit does, starting with both spools empty. While the unit could count the number of motor revolutions from empty spool to the hook reaching the limit, how the thread places on the spool will vary, depending on how evenly it stacks onto the spool, so I'm not sure if that's what the app uses to determine travel or not. I wonder if you determined how much extra thread was used, divided that amount by 2 and wound that amount on each spool, then did the calibration again if it would fool the app?

Edited by Lego Tom

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13 hours ago, allanp said:

This has got me thinking. I think I have some left over lead flashing in the shed, easy to cut with tin snips. I could get some grey PLA filament, though I have some in yellow already, make them twice as tall and cut rectangles of lead flashing to fit inside.

Yeah, that should totally work!

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12 hours ago, Lego Tom said:

Perhaps because of the self test unit does, starting with both spools empty. While the unit could count the number of motor revolutions from empty spool to the hook reaching the limit, how the thread places on the spool will vary, depending on how evenly it stacks onto the spool, so I'm not sure if that's what the app uses to determine travel or not. I wonder if you determined how much extra thread was used, divided that amount by 2 and wound that amount on each spool, then did the calibration again if it would fool the app?

I did not buy the set, but built the set with my own bricks. So I also had to rebuild the spool (left on photo). By adding 2 wheels now (right on photo), I have increased the diameter to reduce the number of windings.

1972823995_20230809_085230(2).jpg.37c9aebcf424cc43c3de23e610d21728.jpg

After recalibration it was better, but still not completely.

I don't know how much extra thread I used. Winding up a piece of thread beforehand will not solve the problem. It will then roll up completely, but will not unroll completely.
I made the thread twice 25 cm shorter, without recalibration. Now it rolls up and down completely. Only when the crane is in its highest position, the hook will no longer touch the ground.

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33 minutes ago, Pruimke said:

I did not buy the set, but built the set with my own bricks. So I also had to rebuild the spool (left on photo). By adding 2 wheels now (right on photo), I have increased the diameter to reduce the number of windings.

1972823995_20230809_085230(2).jpg.37c9aebcf424cc43c3de23e610d21728.jpg

 

How do U suppose right spool will work - those wheels inside are freely rotatable and the string won't collect there :)

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2 hours ago, Aleh said:

How do U suppose right spool will work - those wheels inside are freely rotatable and the string won't collect there :)

I clamp the rope between the axle and the disc, in both cases. It doesn't matter that the wheels can turn, as long as the rope is tight.

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On 8/9/2023 at 12:07 PM, Pruimke said:

I clamp the rope between the axle and the disc, in both cases. It doesn't matter that the wheels can turn, as long as the rope is tight.

OK then :)

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