JohnsLegos

Looking to build a small model railroad

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I am looking for some help with an idea I have. I want to build a somewhat small railroad using the 60197 Lego passenger train and the platform will sit in a corner on 2-6 foot tables. I know the train is on backorder but I am on the email list once it gets back in stock. The base for the railroad will be 1/2 inch thick cabinet grade lumber (good stuff) and I want to use the Lego 10700 green baseplates to anchor the track to. I want to cover the wood in baseplates so after doing the math the base will be 30" wide by 70" long so each board would need 21 baseplates each (for a total of 42) and I plan to use a very small headed nail (like a finishing nail) to hold them to the board. Now here is where I am running into a small issue. I plan to use the track that comes with the set and also have a request with Lego for one set of extra track (item number 60205) (which is also on backorder)  and am wondering how many more of these track packs I might need. The train will just run on the outside of the layout and on the inside will be Lego kits I have been building over time. I might also order some trees and flowers from Bricklink to add a little to it just for fun. Also I plan to anchor the track to the baseplates with either 2 by 6 or 2 x 8 thin Lego pieces and on the corners use a Lego swivel (I've seen them on Bricklink but don't know the part number). Anyone??

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Hi John,

I think you mean to layout like so:

KVeeiHM.png

For a bigger image, click here.

So by my count that's 16 of the bend tracks, and 16 of the straights (maybe same again for the second table??).

I have quickly mocked this up using Bricklink stud.io, which is a software perfect for figuring out answers to exactly your type of questions. Well worth getting familiar with to trial things before purchasing too much.

I believe the swivel part you are talking about is the '2x2 turntable', which has several versions. Here is one type: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3680c01&name=Turntable 2 x 2 Plate with Light Gray Top (3680 / 3679)&category=[Turntable]#T=C but it's worth just searching the term 2x2 turntable to see others.

Edited by Yoggington
Two tables mentioned.

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You could use double-sided tape to hold the baseplates to your custom table surface.  You could also add a slightly raised trim edging around the table to hold in the baseplates.  Having nail heads on the baseplate can get in the way of putting LEGO pieces on top of those spots.

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Something to bear in mind is that while the straight tracks will fasten to the baseplates, the curves will not. Some people solve this by putting a layer or two of plates under the track to simulate ballasting and place tiles under the curves. of course you can also secure some of the straights and let the curves rest on top of the baseplates, the slight height differences won't be a problem.

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Do have a look into some software, as you will have more questions no doubt.

 

This is simple enough. We can work this much out from the diagram above already. Each right angle corner requires 4 bend pieces, so that's 24 total.

Straight runs start 1.5 baseplates from the end of the table, and each cover 16 studs length (half a baseplate). So that becomes 14 + 8 + 3 + 9 for 34 straight pieces.

Unfortunately due to the radius of the track, and the widths of your tables, the internal curve cannot fit correctly to this configuration. See this picture: https://i.imgur.com/6u6QWe5.png You could resolve that by adding a bridge/triangle of ground under it. Pushing the whole track right against the lip would *nearly* resolve. Or you could look at non-lego products with a tighter radius - though this may affect any long carriages you have, or carriages with fixed wheels/no bogeys.

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The LEGO track packs come with flex track pieces.  I think you could use some of them to angle the straights so that curve is a bit more in from the corner edge?

 

 

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12 minutes ago, dr_spock said:

The LEGO track packs come with flex track pieces.  I think you could use some of them to angle the straights so that curve is a bit more in from the corner edge?

 

 

i personally wouldnt use these as they are (atleast in my opinion) really ugly and dont look like traintracks at all

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Have you tried placing a nail through a baseplate yet? Unless you heated the nail I would be concerned that you could end up damaging the baseplate, though I haven't tried so it could work perfectly well, though as @dr_spock pointed out they could be inconvenient. Double sided tape or glue should be sufficient to hold the baseplates especially if they are all secured together well and the track is firmly connected, and the train shouldn't cause too much movement unless it crashed or hit a buffer at full speed.

In terms of securing track to baseplates, there are many track geometry resources which can show where curved track aligns with baseplate studs, though even placing just a layer of tiles underneath for aesthetics and support should be enough with just the ends of the straight ends of the curves attached to the baseplate for R40 curves. Regardless I look forward to seeing more of the end result.

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Flex tracks aren't pretty.  But they'll have to do for my group of purists.  Luckily for me, they didn't notice I 3d printed wheels on my camelback steam engine running over their flex tracks.   :pir_laugh2:

show4.jpg

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Well as for the nails going through the baseplates, I plan to pre-drill the plates before putting the nails in and also using a nail with a small head and using a punch to get it all the way down. Also, does anyone out there know how long the straight pieces are?? The Lego site tells you how many are in the set but gives no dimensions.

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1 hour ago, JohnsLegos said:

Well as for the nails going through the baseplates, I plan to pre-drill the plates before putting the nails in and also using a nail with a small head and using a punch to get it all the way down. Also, does anyone out there know how long the straight pieces are?? The Lego site tells you how many are in the set but gives no dimensions.

But why would you drill those base plates? You'd better use tiles/jumper tiles. I mean (imho) the advantage from LEGO over model railroads is the reusability of all parts. I just read the newest version of "Railhobby", a periodical about model trains and I am always fascinated by them, but the fun thing about LEGO is you can keep reimagining things and realize it as well without the need to throw away virtually anything.

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One stud is 8mm. That is the most important figure when you try to estimate the space required for your design. As for nails through the plates or double sided tape, well they certainly do the trick. The problem is they are messy (tape) or leave permanent damage (nails). I would rather use something like 3176s or 3738s. They have holes by default. Place some around the side of the plates with holes going off the plate. Add a washer below for spacing, a washer above for protection and drive bolts through them into the table. Or you can even try to drill into the table and then use use long Lego axles or pins. One positive aspect of this solution is that you can kinda slide the board on one axis even after finish. Just loosen the bolts, take off the the 3176/3738s from the base board, slide the board and retighten everything. 
Alternatively, you can create some framing around the Lego plates using something like HDF plates. HDF is easy to cut yet pretty durable. Cut strips of HDF, create the Lego base the way you want it, then bolt down strips all around the base. This way your plates are not damaged but still fixed firmly into place. There are many different ways to fix the plates to a table without damaging your Lego.   

Edited by Pendra37

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If you just connect the straight track to the baseplates, you will wind up with a very large mass that does not need to be taped, nor nailed, nor bounded. It will do a pretty good job of staying put on its own without help. For the other baseplates, they will probably be fine with the ring of track around, but you could use green plates or tiles to pin them together if you find any problems arise. I'd hold off nailing or taping until if/when you have problems.

As for dimensions, standard 32x32 baseplates are 10"x10" (so the large gray 48x48 are 15"x15"). It is two track segments per baseplate, or 5" per straight track segment.

If you buy two copies of a lego train set you will have enough curves for two loops, so there is a good chance you will not need any additional curves. Lego straight track is always bundled with something. So even on bricklink it tends to be expensive. TrixBrix offers molded "double straights"  (10" long) that are probably cheaper than a pure lego solution, but that all depends on where you fall on the lego purity scale.

Most importantly though, have fun and don't overspend

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7 hours ago, JohnsLegos said:

Well as for the nails going through the baseplates, I plan to pre-drill the plates before putting the nails in and also using a nail with a small head and using a punch to get it all the way down. Also, does anyone out there know how long the straight pieces are?? The Lego site tells you how many are in the set but gives no dimensions.

I wouldn’t drill and nail the plates, but use good quality grab adhesive, like Gorilla Grab, or No More Nails.  Make sure your wooden boards are cleaned off, and have at least a little bit of a key, (maybe a low grade sanding) and then use the adhesive and spread on the underside of the baseplate, in a zig zag fashion.  Place this board down in the corner of your board, and press down firmly.  Scrape any squeezed out adhesive from the edges.  

Repeat with the second baseplate.  It’s important that you then attach the two glued baseplate together with some 10x2 bricks, make sure they have bottom tubes, as this will maintain the right distance between the studs, and keep the studs in line.  I would suggest a minimum of 4 stretching across the join, NOT along it.  Repeat until all the plates are glued down.  Leave in place until the adhesive dries.

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On 1/5/2022 at 3:16 PM, Yoggington said:

Do have a look into some software, as you will have more questions no doubt.

 

This is simple enough. We can work this much out from the diagram above already. Each right angle corner requires 4 bend pieces, so that's 24 total.

Straight runs start 1.5 baseplates from the end of the table, and each cover 16 studs length (half a baseplate). So that becomes 14 + 8 + 3 + 9 for 34 straight pieces.

Unfortunately due to the radius of the track, and the widths of your tables, the internal curve cannot fit correctly to this configuration. See this picture: https://i.imgur.com/6u6QWe5.png You could resolve that by adding a bridge/triangle of ground under it. Pushing the whole track right against the lip would *nearly* resolve. Or you could look at non-lego products with a tighter radius - though this may affect any long carriages you have, or carriages with fixed wheels/no bogeys.

OK. I'm a little peeved at Lego right now because I put in a request to be emailed when the track packs came back into stock and apparently if you do not order within 30 seconds of getting the email you are not going to get any track. So I have come up to the conclusion that to get what I need, I might have to buy the track from someone on Bricklink. Now my problem is, the passenger train I want to run, the 60197, comes with some track 16 curved pieces and 4 straight pieces. I know I need 8 curved pieces to make the 2 half curves but how many and which track do I need?? There are different variations on Bricklink and I do not know the track voltage. Anyone??

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The easiest way to figure this out is to look up 60197 on Bricklink itself, look at what parts are supplied - then get more of the same :)

For the record, 60197 is driven from a motor & wheels on the train itself - so no voltage required in your track, they are just plastic rails. It's been a long time since Lego released a train with metal tracks.

The straights are this piece (and 4 are supplied with the set) : https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=53401&idColor=85#T=C&C=85

The bends are this piece (and 16 are supplied with the set) : https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=53400&idColor=85#T=C&C=85

 

By my math above, you'll want to buy 30 additional straights, and 8 additional curves.

Edited by Yoggington
Clarity

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6 hours ago, Yoggington said:

The easiest way to figure this out is to look up 60197 on Bricklink itself, look at what parts are supplied - then get more of the same :)

For the record, 60197 is driven from a motor & wheels on the train itself - so no voltage required in your track, they are just plastic rails. It's been a long time since Lego released a train with metal tracks.

The straights are this piece (and 4 are supplied with the set) : https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=53401&idColor=85#T=C&C=85

The bends are this piece (and 16 are supplied with the set) : https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=53400&idColor=85#T=C&C=85

 

By my math above, you'll want to buy 30 additional straights, and 8 additional curves.

Thanks for the info! I knew about the curved sections but did not know how many straights I needed. As for the straights, are they all the same length?? I nticed the track pack comes with a smaller piece of straight so I probably don't need any of these right? Thanks again.

 

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1 hour ago, JohnsLegos said:

Thanks for the info! I knew about the curved sections but did not know how many straights I needed. As for the straights, are they all the same length?? I nticed the track pack comes with a smaller piece of straight so I probably don't need any of these right? Thanks again.

The smaller pieces of straight are flexi-track. They have a bit of give & tolerance in them, and can be used if some unusual layout just won't quite connect. You can see them in use in the image Dr Spock posted up thread.

This L-shaped layout I posted earlier ( https://i.imgur.com/6u6QWe5.png) doesn't need any of these.

However, it does have an issue on the inside corner you will need to consider.

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After getting the info for what extra track I need, I put the info into Bricklink and cannot believe how much some people on there want for a section of straight track. Some want around $8.oo per piece, unbelievable, but if I look for the curved track it costs next to nothing. How is that?? 

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there are much more curves on the market than straights simply due to the fact that lego produces more curves than straights. the rest is supply and demand

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21 hours ago, JohnsLegos said:

After getting the info for what extra track I need, I put the info into Bricklink and cannot believe how much some people on there want for a section of straight track. Some want around $8.oo per piece, unbelievable, but if I look for the curved track it costs next to nothing. How is that?? 

$1.40 for the equivalent of a single straight track at TrixBrix. There are probably Chinese clones for a lot less

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