Polarlicht

10300 BTTF DeLorean DMC-12 Time Machine

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2 hours ago, brickphisto said:

No, it is a brand new windscreen: 14 studs at the bottom, 10 studs at the top, 6 studs (=5 bricks) high. A very useful part. I can imagine dozens of car models that could benefit from that windscreen.

And the best part about this new windscreen is this:
r0gxERr.jpeg

BUT why not use the 49.5x20 tires for the rear and 49.5x14 for the front?  The rear wheel is clearly wider and bigger in diameter, the least LEGO could have done is use the existing wider ones. Also that hoverboard looks crap compared to this:6122461.jpg

Edited by R0Sch

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1 hour ago, R0Sch said:

BUT why not use the 49.5x20 tires for the rear and 49.5x14 for the front?  The rear wheel is clearly wider and bigger in diameter, the least LEGO could have done is use the existing wider ones. Also that hoverboard looks crap compared to this:6122461.jpg

They may have used the thinner tyre so that the hover mechanism works. I suspect wider tyres would get caught.

Agreed the original hoverboard looks better, but trying to achieve the same thing at the scale of the model as they have done, would be tricky, and probably end up looking even worse as you'd need more pieces, which would break up the design.

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1 hour ago, RichardGoring said:

They may have used the thinner tyre so that the hover mechanism works. I suspect wider tyres would get caught.

Agreed the original hoverboard looks better, but trying to achieve the same thing at the scale of the model as they have done, would be tricky, and probably end up looking even worse as you'd need more pieces, which would break up the design.

I'm pretty sure it's doable, just needs the hinging point to be deeper so the wheels wouldn't get caught in the fender arches.

As to the hoverboard. Why does the board need to be in the vehicle scale when there are 2 minifigures included? Does Marty use the board or the car?

Edited by R0Sch

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I wasn't previously aware of the Dave Slater model, so I just looked it up.  They both look good, but I think the official set looks just a bit better - and it has a much better mechanism for folding the wheels horizontal.  I remember when the 1989 Batmobile came out, the designers said on their Bricklist that they tried very hard to do everything differently than it was done on the Dave Slater model.  I wonder if the Delorean is also intended to be "100% NOT Dave Slater" in terms of the design solutions.

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15 hours ago, R0Sch said:

I'm pretty sure it's doable, just needs the hinging point to be deeper so the wheels wouldn't get caught in the fender arches.

As to the hoverboard. Why does the board need to be in the vehicle scale when there are 2 minifigures included? Does Marty use the board or the car?

I assume that the hoverboard was scaled to the car to be stowed in it as a prop just like the Plutonium storage (hence the lack of studs for Marty to attach to). The minifigures are nice to get but they're hardly the focus of the set, so I don't see the need for them to get scaled accessories.

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56 minutes ago, Lyichir said:

I assume that the hoverboard was scaled to the car to be stowed in it as a prop just like the Plutonium storage (hence the lack of studs for Marty to attach to). The minifigures are nice to get but they're hardly the focus of the set, so I don't see the need for them to get scaled accessories.

If anything, they would have kept the brick built hoverboard and given Marty the minifigure one as well. They wouldn't exclude the vehicle scale one, as it's meant to go with the model, not the figures. 

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About the door's falling on their own, I think that the designer used the old type of Technic pins and the new ones (without center slots) having less friction ridges + made of softer material don't have enough friction to hold the doors weight. Could someone who already got the review copy test this theory with the old pins (6558 for 3L and 2780 for 2L)? I'm really annoyed by these new pins (introduced last year) and how much more difficult they are to disassemble because they're so slippery.

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It's just me or the side windows are just off proportion wise?

I find it too short.

I like the model, but that detail is definitely wrong and I can't stand the side view.

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On 3/21/2022 at 11:57 PM, mudseason said:

It's just me or the side windows are just off proportion wise?

I find it too short.

I like the model, but that detail is definitely wrong and I can't stand the side view.

Take a look at 4:35 min. Balazs shows some kind of solution.

 

Edited by fo4saken

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On 3/24/2022 at 5:46 PM, fo4saken said:

Take a look at 4:35 min. Balazs shows some kind of solution.

 

Thanks, looks better but the side view still put me off.

It looks like a car was mod into a pickup. There's something goofy, I cannot explain it better. Most probably it cannot be done better a this scale, I'm not blaming at all the designers, I think it's a great detailed model.

 

 

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On 3/21/2022 at 5:43 AM, R0Sch said:

 I'm really annoyed by these new pins (introduced last year) and how much more difficult they are to disassemble because they're so slippery.

Me too but for a different reason, they are all bent as well, not straight. Which occasionally makes it slightly more difficult to join together parts with multiple pins sticking out, even moreso if like me, you orient all your pins the same direction.

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On 3/28/2022 at 10:49 PM, mudseason said:

Thanks, looks better but the side view still put me off.

It looks like a car was mod into a pickup. There's something goofy, I cannot explain it better. Most probably it cannot be done better a this scale, I'm not blaming at all the designers, I think it's a great detailed model.

 

 

I think its due to those silver and trans-blue "time machine-y" parts near the B and C pilar.

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I tried some door fixes digitally, since I didn't buy the set yet. Maybe someone can try them out and write back if they work.
These two ideas require the replacement of the 1x4 dbg plate with two 1x2 plate modified with tow ball (22890). The friction of the socket and the wedge pieces should keep the doors from falling down. Afterwards they can be removed of turned downwards.
cnvnefG.jpg5vbwMen.jpg

I think the last one should definitely hold the doors and can be easily removed. It's a stack of two 1x2 plates with the tow ball pieces at 90° to act as a stoppers.
dLaMe8t.jpg

Or even simpler a 3 piece stopper under the arch brick:
0VrAwXT.jpg

Edited by R0Sch

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I just finished building the DeLorean and equipped it with lights. :classic:
So if you are interested in how it looks illuminated this video might help you ;-)

 

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I've just built the Delorean and even compared to the Creator Expert Mustang and Porsche this seems like a step up in techniques and build experience. And the final product really is comparable to die-cast models in terms of accuracy and detail. Some of the build highlights for me were the modified 1x2 plates-with-bar securing the position of the seat backs, the flush finish of the closed bonnet, the tight and secure fit of the rear quarter panels, and of course the very impressive wheel rotating mechanism.

The set does have a few flaws though. The big one many reviews have identified is the self-closing doors. The first thing I tried was adding 1x2-2x2 Up Brackets to the black 1x2 plates (inside, near the hinge) to lock the doors in an open position. This is an easy display fix, and the removed brackets can be stowed either side of the plutonium box under the bonnet when the doors are closed. A better solution though is to switch the two black friction pins (#2780) in the door hinge mechanism for older 1980s-vintage friction pins (#4459). I can confirm that, on my set at least, this simple fix adds more than enough friction to keep the doors open on display.

Another issue for me was the lack of prints, especially for the dashboard area and the number-plates. For the number-plate, some minor modification makes it possible to mount a 1x2 tile behind the trans-clear window pane, which will work well for anyone who has the 1x2 'Outatime' printed tile from the 2013 Delorean set. One last simple modification I can recommend is to remove the two white half pins in the Mr Fusion sub-assembly, which will allow for a cleaner finished look.

It would have been nice if they'd included the five extra pieces needed to allow all the sequel version accessories to be pre-built at once. Overall though, this is a truly brilliant set, and the minifigures are a very nice added bonus.

Edited by BrickMonkeyMOCs

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Well I was on the fence about getting this set but after reading that, I will definitely be picking it up, lol. Thanks for letting us know your experience.

 

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Spoiler

 

Hi guys, I’ve made some changes to my DeLorean to improve flaws, add features and simplify the switch between movies configurations. :)

You can see them here:


Edited by Lock

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@Lock - Nice work on your video and mods, there are some clean and simple fixes included that I definitely like!  The License plate fix / with the reactor options is particularly good.

I too have modified and improved the model. ...it seems like this model needed 'fixing' by our community!

Fixes applied:

  • Swapped out all of the bright off-colour scheme parts for parts that match the colour scheme of the model/Time Machine.
  • Applied TOPACES superb door fix for the Gull-wing door closing issue.
  • Made a series of cosmetic improvements to address some issues and missing details on the model.

I've published details and free instructions for the mods on Rebrickable, see here:

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-110625/Simon Lenz/back-to-the-future-time-machine-mods-improvements/#details

1%20-%20Flying%20Front%20Quarter%20.png

More photos also available here: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjzP2HQ

Edited by lenzie

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Hi ! I posted a video of it on my YT Channel and the fix for gullwing doors. Really easy to it, hope this will help. You can improve it by using a double pin black instead of the original blue one : will increase the friction even more.

 

 

 

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