Drewgie

12v train running on powered up?

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Just hoping for a little help please? 
 

I have a 12v motor (red one) that I want to motorise with powered up battery box. 
 

Could someone please advise how to connect the wires from the powered up battery box to achieve this. I will buy a sensor or motor or something and chop the cable to be able to attach to the hub. 
 

has anyone designed a connector to suit this purpose please, or does anyone have any advice which wires work to power the motor, and is it able to provide variable speed to the 12v motor please? 
 

Any help or link would be great please? I don’t want to just put a powered up motor in the train as I want to maintain the look of the old grey era train. 

Thanks in advance. 

Andrew

 

 

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Hi Andrew, and welcome!

I think that the Powered Up battery box is a bit "feeeling" what you connect to it - but it's a story apart.

There's this thread on PuP to PF, it should work also for some tests on 12v and 9v motors, and this should be useful for your goal.

My 2 cents on the topic of keeping the 12v models alive, even with some "modernization".

Apart connections and communication methods, the train motor shape is the same from the 80s. The red color is not, and this is the big problem for Gray Era steamers converted to PuP/PF.

I prepared on Tinkercad some wheels that can be 3D printed and connected to the Technic axle some time ago:

12v 3D Printed Wheels for PF/PuP motors

These can be printed in red or black (or whatever color, but it would not be serious :pir-tongue:) and attached to a PF/PuP motor.

You've to attach a pin to the central wheel hole, and guarantee some "suspension", otherwise it will act as fulcrum and leave a pair of wheels in the air. It's something I work on from years, but no results until I got my own 3d printer!

The design is public so anyone can access and make it better. 12v rods can be attached. Just "clean" them with some sandpaper and rub internally the rod hole with a small screwdriver (some residual material could prevent the rod locking or turning freely).

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gerklkxBwoV

One thing I tried to solve the color problem was to attach an adhesive wrapping to the sides of the PF/PuP motor, and then use the 3D printed wheels. There are so many colors and red tones, and buying online is a mess so it's a bit of trial and error.

I hope it can be useful too! :sweet:

Ciao!

Davide

 

 

 

 

Edited by Paperinik77pk

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Thanks Davide, I appreciate that info, yes I was thinking the same sort of strategy. Those wheels look pretty good, well done. How do you get ‘suspension’ on the middle wheel may I ask please?
 

I might try the powering the red motor with the battery box as that’s my easiest option, but then I think I will go down that road if I can’t get it to work. 
 

I’m interested if others have had success getting speed control on the 12v motor?
 

Thanks,

Andrew

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Wire the train motor to pins 1 and 2 on the PU connector.  Connect pins 4 and 5 together on the PU connector.  Connect pins 3 and 6 together.  This will ID the motor as PU train motor to the PU hub.

I don't have a 12V train motor to test.

pu2pf2a.jpg

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8 hours ago, dr_spock said:

Wire the train motor to pins 1 and 2 on the PU connector.  Connect pins 4 and 5 together on the PU connector.  Connect pins 3 and 6 together.  This will ID the motor as PU train motor to the PU hub.

I don't have a 12V train motor to test.

pu2pf2a.jpg

Thanks for the info, much appreciated, I’ll give that a try!

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On 10/16/2021 at 12:59 PM, Drewgie said:

Thanks for the info, much appreciated, I’ll give that a try!

Cool, great it helped you! Welcome to Eurobricks and Train Tech b.t.w.!

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This is not an answer to your question (sorry), but altough I FULLY understand you wan't to keep the 'stock' 12V unit to maintain the original look from the set, I would switch to a new PF or PU unit. The 12v units are becoming very rare (and expensive) and I went trough the same process as you.

In the end, I just completely switched to RC (yes, with the bulky base), 9V and PF/PU. Never been happier. 

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On 10/9/2022 at 10:00 AM, *thomas* said:

This is not an answer to your question (sorry), but altough I FULLY understand you wan't to keep the 'stock' 12V unit to maintain the original look from the set, I would switch to a new PF or PU unit. The 12v units are becoming very rare (and expensive) and I went trough the same process as you.

In the end, I just completely switched to RC (yes, with the bulky base), 9V and PF/PU. Never been happier. 

I would tend to agree. Just today I hacked my 88005 leds and successfully hooked up a 12V motor from set 7740.

I must say, I am rather pleased with the fact that this method works!
That said, I noticed that the motor lacks oomph, which on a heavy train like 7740 is not great news. 9V is not the same as 12V…

Once again in my life I’m learning that factory solutions work best. I’m sticking to a complete PuP system even though I’d love to see classic bogie wheels and connecting rods like on 7735. 

Edited by Szubi

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Posted (edited)

Hello.

I would like to ask about the template for 3D printed replacement wheels.

Is there a variant that would not have the hole for coupling rods, just plain wheel? Or would it be possible to modify it?

I understand that back in the eighties it made sense to make only one default mold for the wheels, but now that they are being printed one by one, there are locomotives like 7740 that would actually slightly profit from having wheels without rod holes.

Thank you,

Best regards,

Jan

 

Edited by Colonel32

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