efferman

42131 Cat D11 Mods and improvements

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Posted (edited)

HELP:- having problems with calibrating.

Having received a the Cat 11 bulldozer at Christmas I have so far successfully built stage 1.

Stage 2 built as far as page 198 and down load C + to my iPad. & downloaded software and latest firmware OK.

How long should it take and should you wait until stage 2 is completed or until book 2 page 974 when blade tilt system installed?

1st attempt:-
Turned on hub and some movement from the long linear actuators and then nothing, later found the 20T DBG gear for the differential had dropped out !!

2nd attempt:-
Stripped gear box down and rebuilt making sure all gears correct and orange gear selector correctly positioned.
Tried calibration again without success.

3rd Attempt :-

Rebuilt gear box again and double checked all correct and that all cables correctly connected to the hub
This time the calibration started with both L.A rotating and after a long pause calibration moved onto the next step ( right hand image showing the blade tilting system)
But blade tilt system is not installed until page 974.

So far no further progress.
Should I continue you the to complete stage 2 before trying to calibrating again ?

Tempted to use the PF solution as I have enough PF motors and PF receivers to use this.

Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Now completed stage 2.

Doug72

Edited by Doug72
Added text.

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Posted (edited)

You should use "setup-ut test" (not calibration) after stage 2 / step 198 to verify that gearbox provides output to all function. This is indicated by the test procedure. However, I found that direction of turning is not always clearly indicated by the app.

It is useful to perform the test: I put in the yellow gear driving extension ring in the wrong orientation...

There is little use to perform a motor endpoint calibration during stage 2 as (all) the endpoints are not yet defined. Thus motors will rotate forever without getting to the "stop" point.

 

During calibration there could be an issue:

The height of the blade is calibrated first.
If the blade is fully tilted backwards, e.g. toward the chassis, the blade cannot be rised to its maximum possible height.

Therefore the blade should be tilted forward before calibration is started.

Edited by anyUser

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Thanks for the reply and the explanation.

Now completed stage 2.

I will follow your advice about tilting the blade forward before calibration.

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Hi, does anybody know if there is a mode to replace the two fake actuators at the back with two real ones (manual articulation) without redesigning the whole thing? I think it should be possible to fit two normal length actuators (plus gears to drive them) in the space availiable which are driven manually.
Most of the replacements for those two actuators are also coupled with motorizing this function which needs extensive redesign of the whole dozer. A simple fast attachable manual solution would be also great.

Thanks!

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, tmctiger said:

Hi, does anybody know if there is a mode to replace the two fake actuators at the back with two real ones (manual articulation) without redesigning the whole thing?

In my PF mod the two LAs are put directly onto the two vertical flip flop 11L beams through a 11L axle. I think you can use a longer axle and add a knob.

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-92919/nguyengiangoc/42131-pf-conversion/#parts

Edited by Ngoc Nguyen

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1 hour ago, tmctiger said:

Hi, does anybody know if there is a mode to replace the two fake actuators at the back with two real ones (manual articulation) without redesigning the whole thing? I think it should be possible to fit two normal length actuators (plus gears to drive them) in the space availiable which are driven manually.
Most of the replacements for those two actuators are also coupled with motorizing this function which needs extensive redesign of the whole dozer. A simple fast attachable manual solution would be also great.

Thanks!

You may check this out: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-93838

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2 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

In my PF mod the two LAs are put directly onto the two vertical flip flop 11L beams through a 11L axle. I think you can use a longer axle and add a knob.

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=42131-1

 

1 hour ago, A_C said:

You may check this out: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-93838

Hi, thanks guys, this will help alot. :thumbup:

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For those that have replace the manual track tensioning with a shock absorber, have you found that a single sock absorber provides enough tension? Which shock absorber did you use?

Any notes, suggestions, wishes you had done something differently?

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much progress had been made , it looks like the goal was reached to have all original functions the lego designed dozer had with the addition of 2 linear actuators to control ripper tilt , this means theres a total of 2 hubs and 7 motors , the dozer in the pictures is not finished just yet and comes in right under 13lbs with all batteries in the hubs 

 

if anyone knows how to slow down a motor in the lego technic powered up app please let me know , ive looked everywhere and cant find how to slow its rotation 

D11 upgradesD11 upgradesD11 upgradesD11 upgrades

 

Edited by nugnug115

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3 hours ago, nugnug115 said:

much progress had been made , it looks like the goal was reached to have all original functions the lego designed dozer had with the addition of 2 linear actuators to control ripper tilt , this means theres a total of 2 hubs and 7 motors , the dozer in the pictures is not finished just yet and comes in right under 13lbs with all batteries in the hubs 

 

if anyone knows how to slow down a motor in the lego technic powered up app please let me know , ive looked everywhere and cant find how to slow its rotation 

I haven't done any coding in the PU app, but for Mindstorms block programming there's an option to select the motor speed so it would be really strange if it was absent from the PU app...

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Are you using the controller function in the PU app? If so, you should be able to control the speed by adjusting the position of the slider you're using for control.

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10 hours ago, nugnug115 said:

if anyone knows how to slow down a motor in the lego technic powered up app please let me know , ive looked everywhere and cant find how to slow its rotation

There are two ways to control motor speed in the Powered Up app. Referencing the LEGO® Powered Up simple code block guide by Racing Brick, you could use any blocks that have either the symbol for motor power or motor speed (tacho motors only). Then, you control the input value (-100 to 100) for a proportional output.

For example, to run a motor at full speed when a button is pressed, the button input needs to be multiplied by 100 (button values are 0 or 1), and the result could be fed into a motor control block (see below). If you want it to run at a different speed, adjust the value the button is multiplied by. To go in reverse, negate the number. For inputs that range range from -100 to 100 (such as a slider), you can divide the number before feeding it into the motor control function.

QmaGrrqYpQ9GVdMNbqYG8m1Sm8qe4gpKeYiVCYCD

Motor power (gauge icon in lower-right corner):
035.png

Motor speed (upward arrow icon in the lower-right corner):
041.png

Edited by westphald

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@Ngoc Nguyen

I have followed your PF Conversion instructions  for the CAT D11 dozer. as far as making the White motor unit for the ladder page 165.

Then changed to the Lego instructions page:- 658 to 887. I am struggling to get any further than page 663.

I can fit the White Ladder drive in place and then tried moving on with the build and connect the drive to the ladder.

Added the yellow side panels ( page 687 ) and the drive out to the ladder but a 5 x 3 angle beam fouls.

Not sure if the vertical black beams with alternating holes are correctly placed.

Your instructions are very clear unlike some Lego instructions.Any help appreciated.

See photos :-

51856222636_d06e08ed36_z.jpgIMG_8510

51856306498_2fc89b7fc2_z.jpgIMG_8511

51856306538_d80ecbdd3b_z.jpgIMG_8512

Edited by Doug72

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23 minutes ago, Doug72 said:

Your instructions are very clear unlike some Lego instructions.Any help appreciated.

I've just disassembled the cabin module in my own set. Can we discuss over direct messages? I don't really understand where the problem is.

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I wonder if you can control control+ via a PF remote, using an sbrick or PF IR reciever connected to a buwizz 3.0

The buwizz 3.0 has 2 PF ports and 4 control+ ports.

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4 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

I wonder if you can control control+ via a PF remote, using an sbrick or PF IR reciever connected to a buwizz 3.0

The buwizz 3.0 has 2 PF ports and 4 control+ ports.

Well, if you ran the IR receiver off of the Buwizz I don't think it's outputs would be connected to the PU outputs of the Buwizz. Now, if you used either two PF extension wires connected via 9V (or one of the non-9V-adapting Chinese extension wires) to connect the output of the receiver to one of the PF outputs of the Buwizz, I suppose it could theoretically read that signal as something to control the PU, but that would require a bunch of new programming, I assume.

Is that what you were thinking?

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3 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Well, if you ran the IR receiver off of the Buwizz I don't think it's outputs would be connected to the PU outputs of the Buwizz. Now, if you used either two PF extension wires connected via 9V (or one of the non-9V-adapting Chinese extension wires) to connect the output of the receiver to one of the PF outputs of the Buwizz, I suppose it could theoretically read that signal as something to control the PU, but that would require a bunch of new programming, I assume.

Is that what you were thinking?

Basically, I tried connecting a PF IR reciever to a buwizz 2 and it worked with every PF motor and the PF switch

The PF LEDs worked too IIRC. I tried both types of PF remote on it.

So I was wondering if there is some sort of connection between the PF and control+ ports of the buwizz 3.0.

Edited by SNIPE

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53 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

Basically, I tried connecting a PF IR reciever to a buwizz 2 and it worked with every PF motor and the PF switch

The PF LEDs worked too IIRC. I tried both types of PF remote on it.

So I was wondering if there is some sort of connection between the PF and control+ ports of the buwizz 3.0.

I don't think there'd be a connection between the PF remote and the normal Buwizz outputs; it seems to me that you're just running the receivers off of the normal constant-voltage output on all RC PF-platform outputs, similar to the old trick of running a PF receiver off of the output of a second receiver. Likewise, you can run an IR receiver off of the outputs of various Chinese-make RC hubs (I've tested CADA and Mould King) to add two outputs, while still having the original one work normally.

I think this connection has to be there on the Buwizz to make the wiring for PF Servos work properly, and has the pleasant side effect of letting receivers work properly, rather than being an intentional design.

I could be wrong, though!

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1 hour ago, SNIPE said:

I wonder if you can control control+ via a PF remote, using an sbrick or PF IR reciever connected to a buwizz 3.0

The buwizz 3.0 has 2 PF ports and 4 control+ ports.

In this case I would recommend to simply use the PU remote with pybricks or PU app.

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On 1/26/2022 at 3:56 PM, Dafgek81 said:

@nugnug115

How long do you think it will take to make instructions for your version??

sadly i wont be making instructions , i have no clue how to either lol , but if your building your own version ill help the best i can with any questions you have :classic:

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On 2/3/2022 at 7:26 PM, nugnug115 said:

sadly i wont be making instructions , i have no clue how to either lol , but if your building your own version ill help the best i can with any questions you have :classic:

Well, I'm not that good of a builder, so building a two hub version with all functions working simultaneously I can  not do myself. That's why I'm always on the lookout  for instructions.

So I'll be waiting patiently for someone to make them. If not, I won't be buying the set, the playability is so bad, I won't spend the money on a original version without modifying it to a more playable version.

But have to wait a little longer for someone to make it and sell the instructions.

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I don’t expect to be able to take this project much further for a while so I found this thread and figured I would post this. I have some experience working with actual D11s and wanted to improve the roller frame.  Main differences are linking the front and rear idler‘s with the rollers and adding one more set of rollers.  It ends up being two studs longer, which when I scale out the actual machine is probably a little closer to correct anyway.
The next steps in this project would be converting it to high drive and suspending the front end from an equalizer bar (versus being rigidly mounted).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/195025644@N08/51864855927/in/datetaken/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/195025644@N08/51866475150/in/datetaken/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/195025644@N08/51865826801/in/datetaken

 

 

Edited by thor_64

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