efferman

42131 Cat D11 Mods and improvements

Recommended Posts

Really like the blade on that other one. Something that really bothers me and with all the things that should bother me about this set, my number one gripe is that propeller shaft running on the outside of the tracks. I suppose if it was pretty easy to hide it inside the model, they would have done so, still I think it totally detracts from the looks of an otherwise cool looking bulldozer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, nugnug115 said:

has anyone figured out a way to use 2 more linear actuators for the ripper ? the 2 fake ones used look terrible , i would assume we would need to add another technic hub to power them though , also any chance of a triple shank configuration , i think that would look much cooler than just a single one  

I think the easiest way is to use the ladder manuell and the Rc function for the 2 new actuators or manuell switch between Rc ladder and Rc actuators

Edited by Al Ex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Al Ex said:

I think the easiest way is to use the ladder manuell and the Rc function for the 2 new actuators or manuell switch between Rc ladder and Rc actuators

thats a genius idea , i just now discovered that the range of motion on the ripper  is limited by the normal size linear actuators , with a slight modification of the attachment point of the ripper assembly you can get really an unlimited rage of motion with the ripper , with that mod plus removing the old actuators and installing the new XL actuators the ripper will actually be able to do its job , i will definitely be sharing some pics once i do this 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, nugnug115 said:

the ripper will actually be able to do its job

You know, the real machine in real life rips rocks etc quite deep.

But euhm...the LEGO version doesn't really need to rip the carpet :grin:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe a minor Problem, but the Trackwidth of the chassis is 4 studs to wide to be in scale. Should i make it more narrow to be in Scale, or should i let it be so Fat?

The picture is exact in the middle of the two options.

51550298333_335b5a1d84_z.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, efferman said:

Maybe a minor Problem, but the Trackwidth of the chassis is 4 studs to wide to be in scale. Should i make it more narrow to be in Scale, or should i let it be so Fat?

The picture is exact in the middle of the two options.

 

i would go with the fat version personally haha 

Edited by nugnug115

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, efferman said:

Maybe a minor Problem, but the Trackwidth of the chassis is 4 studs to wide to be in scale. Should i make it more narrow to be in Scale, or should i let it be so Fat?

In scale is definitely nicer if possible but if it's going to cause a lot of other problems I don't think it's very noticeable that it's too wide as is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just some thoughts . . Yes it needs narrowing by say 4 studs.  So do we still need the diff ?Has anyone tried the drive motors on the upper cog yet ?
Rather than the manual track tensioner I've kept the rack but adopted a small shock absorber to maintain front wheel tension over rougher ground
The cab seat is 'lost' in black beams . . . and the railings and ladder are way to heavy . . . . 

It will need 6 motors and 2 hubs but by getting rid of the gear boxes it might be possible . . . . . .

Just built it using older grey treads and feel it looks better

Yes I agree . .  manual ladder and get rid of the drive chain

As for the track to ground length . . dropping the lower 'cogs' seems essential and it looks better

I don't like the blue pin ends . .  so I've tried to use black where I can but the little axel to pin ones remain as they are so expensive

Unable to post photo's for some reason . . .  but these are just my initial thoughts

Edited by jon hirst
just more thoughts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think if you are changing other components to be more to accurate to the real machine, the overall width of the model should be changed.  But if you are able to get more machine components into the model with the extra 4 studs of width (more accurate ripper movement) then I think the extra width is justified. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My first attempt at modifying

Just a little longer and a brick higher, old grey treads and 'wheels' and a much longer tread footprint.

I've removed the manual tensioner, kept the rack and introduced a small shock absorber to allow for auto-tension

Yes I know the colours are not as it left the factory but I needed to use what I had . . and I think it looks kinda okay . . 

Another 1 or 2 rebuilds still planned (I'm not good at this stuff !) to do away with the motorised ladder (horrid) add 1 large and 1 small track support rollers and motorise the ripper . . then look at the over-heavy railings.
I will try again to post a photo but so far I don't seem to be able.  It says . . 

There was a problem processing the uploaded file. Please contact us for assistance.

. . . help please !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, jon hirst said:

My first attempt at modifying

Just a little longer and a brick higher, old grey treads and 'wheels' and a much longer tread footprint.

I've removed the manual tensioner, kept the rack and introduced a small shock absorber to allow for auto-tension

Yes I know the colours are not as it left the factory but I needed to use what I had . . and I think it looks kinda okay . . 

Another 1 or 2 rebuilds still planned (I'm not good at this stuff !) to do away with the motorised ladder (horrid) add 1 large and 1 small track support rollers and motorise the ripper . . then look at the over-heavy railings.
I will try again to post a photo but so far I don't seem to be able.  It says . . 

There was a problem processing the uploaded file. Please contact us for assistance.

. . . help please !

If you have photos, please note that they must be linked from an external site, Eurobricks won't host your photos. Many people use for example Flickr, Brickshelf or Imgur for image hosting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, howitzer said:

If you have photos, please note that they must be linked from an external site, Eurobricks won't host your photos. Many people use for example Flickr, Brickshelf or Imgur for image hosting.

lets see some progress pics , im doing some very heavy mods on my dozer as well , ill give some status updates in about a week 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many thanks to Howitzer and Nugnug115
Not sure (I'm way too old) how to use external sites to link photo's . . . but progress here is going well and the build is looking quite good, and although not quite true to the original . . it's slowly becoming a great dozer.
Tread to ground length is around 36 studs, seat in medium grey, the access ladder has been done without using flip-flop beams and now considering a double blade ripper and new roofs . . . . all a bit time consuming

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, jon hirst said:

Not sure (I'm way too old) how to use external sites to link photo's

You can upload to Imgur, and then just copy the .jpg/.png/whatever file type URL link and it'll automatically embed

Edited by Bartybum

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, jon hirst said:

Not sure (I'm way too old) how to use external sites to link photo's

Hey Jon.
it is really easy. As guys said, just make an account on Flickr, Bricksafe or use other sites that do not require an account (Postimages, Imgur). Then upload your images there (mind the EB's allowed size) and just paste the link here. Images will be shown in your post.

Here is a step by step guideline:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Testing

 

photo . . . if this works (from FB !) a very early build photo should be seen . . . apologies, the top section very roughly added for photo245076899_6793374100680368_3070896003673

Edited by jon hirst

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No laughing . . it is very early days.  temporary actuators and 5th (small() motor in after removing the gear-chain to the ladder and lots of gearbox parts.  I don't need a dummy engine drive either (silly exposed pistons) so all I need now is to pick up the courage to rebuild the whole lot from the ground up . . and the second control box may have to go where the dummy motor now sits !
I dunno . . . !245088274_6794592680558510_7215195304527

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good and nobody is laughing, that is just part of the design process, using temporary stand in parts. I often moc up temporary whole vehicle bodys, just to get a rough idea of what the chassis needs in the way of connection points and size limitations.

Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you kind people . . . I'm kinda new to modifying so learning all the time . . and finding even simple solutions are difficult and very time consuming, but it's they're interesting challenges !

Yup . . . time to strip the main body down again and see if there is a way to fit 2 control box things into it, and then attend to the dozens of little details that bother me.:pir_laugh2:
One thing I can say is that stretching it, even that little, looks more realistic when sat on the table . . . I'll post more photo's as things develop.


A quick update . . All 6 motors and 2 magic boxes in, 3 studs narrower, (no dummy motor), 1 stud longer, an auto-tensioned track footprint of 35 studs and, a half decent ripper and guess what . . . half built only to discover the connection to the blade arm pivot drive was 1 stud too low !  . . . back to the drawing board as the whole lot will need rebuilding yet again . . .  

 

Edited by jon hirst
update

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, i will, when i find the time, go to the scale width. Especially after this vid. sorry, it is in German

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well then . . . several re-builds later (and a few more to go) . . the 'chassis' is finished and finally working.  The proportions are looking reasonable, I need to strengthen the track unit supports and think about colour mixes, then that dreadful ripper assembly, the horrid railings and finally it'll be attention to the little details . . . Such Fun !245841298_6810951908922587_8697862331537

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, jon hirst said:

Well then . . . several re-builds later (and a few more to go) . . the 'chassis' is finished and finally working.  The proportions are looking reasonable, I need to strengthen the track unit supports and think about colour mixes, then that dreadful ripper assembly, the horrid railings and finally it'll be attention to the little details . . . Such Fun !

Well done, Jon! Great to hear you're enjoying yourself with the D11. The smaller tracks actually look pretty decent as well. :thumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.