SaperPL

[TC20] 8816 ATV Off Road Racer Remake (Free Instructions)

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Posted (edited)

I've been looking for a model that would suit me, but I don't really want to make anything big. I went through Blakbird's Technicopedia yesterday and I stumbled upon the 8816 ATV Off Road Racer and the nostalgia did hit me and I knew I had to do it.

I went through the original instructions here: https://lego.brickinstructions.com/en/lego_instructions/set/8816/ATV_Off_Road_Racer

So here it goes - the original (image taken from Technicopedia, just reuploaded it for the embedd)

x2cPWKW.jpg

My studless remake:

GAK9azJ.jpg

The thing that hit me just now that I didn't figure out as a kid is that it's a toy car, one of those small electric cars for one child to drive around, those proportions can't lie :)

I will have to go through the pins to try and get rid of the black pins as these are not that common. I'm not 100% sure about the round light tiles, these may be expensive as well.

I'll have to think about the B-model as well, maybe handling the motor modification with PF XL motor would work as well?

032.jpg

I'm not sure though if I'll make it on time with the physical model and actual colours - will have to design fast and get parts asap.

Edited by SaperPL

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Posted (edited)

This was my second Technic set I got as a kid. Good job. My only comment would be that the bonnet should be one stud longer.

Edited by MajklSpajkl

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Thanks!

I know about the bonnet, but I'm reluctant to force it to be longer because it would overcomplicate this significantly. The bonnet is half stud shorter from the front and back due to the change from beams to liftarms and I want to use the frame here because it simplifies things and is also a sign of times here. I can't add liftarm at the back of it, which would make most of the sense to correspond with the original, because it would interfere with steering column and I would also need to move the windshield to the back somehow. At least for now I don't have a good solution for that, but I'll try to figure something out.

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Posted (edited)

The B-model concept:

UZahtb6.jpg

Most of the big pieces should add up - I used the A-model and deconstructed it while build this next to it. The pin count may not add up and I duplicated few pieces that I had to.

I'm not sure about the steering - it might be too tight, but I don't have a good plan to move the gear rack up by one stud here.

EDIT: the motorized B-model is pretty doable, but I suppose the mod will not be as neat as the original one as I'll need to take whole rear apart. It'll also need some additional pieces, but I guess this was the same with the original set. I also had to shift the rear arches a bit to handle this properly.

QMlPvPO.png

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This is a pretty weird motorized set in the first place - it didn't have motor for steering, just the drive:

 031.jpg

 

Edited by SaperPL

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I think I'm pretty close to the final layouts. I'm trying to make it work in a way the I'm not using a lot of additional parts for B and C models of this set. So far so good, but there are few places I'd like to do better than original set 

G8kt8ST.jpg

 

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I will have to build the physical prototypes and order parts ASAP...  And I just figured out the alternate way to handle steering in the B-model that should work properly.

@MajklSpajkl how do you think this looks now? I did make the bonnet longer

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First prototype round:

source.gif

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The B-model seems to be designed properly although there are few details I need to fix for it to be easy to disassemble for motorized variant.

The suspension on the A-model though is something that I will have to redesign as this behaves not as I expected - it seems that either the similar setup with Technic beams is more rigid or that original shock absorber for this model was significantly softer or both. I also need to tweak few details to attach the bonnet around the steering wheel as I totally missed that.

Obviously the colours are not there yet and the new round tile has a different element in the middle - I will have to get the original tiles as the can be attached to two studs thanks to a cross in the middle instead of a circle.

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16 hours ago, SaperPL said:

@MajklSpajkl how do you think this looks now? I did make the bonnet longer

It looks much better now! I love it :thumbup: Great overhaul package indeed! 

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Posted (edited)

Got some missing parts delivered. Sadly I couldn't get my hands on original light tiles with that mesh printed without greatly overpaying so I had to improvise a bit. Also I couldn't get the LBG liftarm 7L and I got very light grey? ones hoping these were going to be really close, but they are significantly lighter.

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I shifted the shock absorber positions from the original one for it to be softer - the liftarms are not as rigidly connected as the original beam and plate connections and they started twisting/bending significantly at original shock configuration with slim wheels used in the prototype. The difference is slight, but after changing the wheels to the baloon ones, it works properly.

source.gif

And the B-model:


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Here's what's left after taking apart the A-model to make it into B-model (the original also had significant amount of leftover parts, even more than this)


FLhtiBq.jpg

I had to add the 12-tooth gear, two short stud-pins, two 3L long pins to complete the B-model from the parts in A-model. I potentially could use the grey 3L pins somewhere to reduce the required added parts.

Edited by SaperPL

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I've made the first iteration of instructions. I made them in portrait mode like the original ones, not sure if that's the good choice.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xrz2zn2qvt0icv0/8816 Studless A Instruction.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4w538xilqe36b5v/8816 Studless B Instruction.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sy2xikg2uqj1g7r/8816 Studless C Instruction.pdf?dl=0

1aIp1Ds.png

W9FAR8r.jpg

The interesting use case is the C-model where you have to disassemble the back of the B-model first.

XMi8PzL.png

9XcIqXt.png

I will have to go through the parts lists to make sure what the final parts list will be before submitting this to rebrickable. And of course some video is a must...

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