[TC20] Volkswagen T1 Camper Van (10220)

[RuTechBrothers]

I decided to join the Technic Studless Recreation competition.
Someone starts building a car with a chassis, but I decided to start with ❤
The heart of the model will be a 4-cylinder opposed engine.

[kolbjha]

Sounds like a perfect choice of model: studless recreation of recreational vehicle 

[Mechbuilds]

7 hours ago, RuTechBrothers said:

I decided to join the Technic Studless Recreation competition.
Someone starts building a car with a chassis, but I decided to start with ❤
The heart of the model will be a 4-cylinder opposed engine.

Please share this engine in this thread: 

Instructions would be awesome! Great work! 

[caiman0637]

Ooh, that's a good idea. One of my favorite sets. 

That engine looks great, keep up the good work!

[RuTechBrothers]

19 hours ago, kolbjha said:

Sounds like a perfect choice of model: studless recreation of recreational vehicle 

 

13 hours ago, caiman0637 said:

Ooh, that's a good idea. One of my favorite sets. 

That engine looks great, keep up the good work!

Considering that the original from Lego was released in 2011, the set has a 10-year anniversary this year.
In addition, I was surprised that no one before me had tried to build this legendary car from Lego tech parts.

16 hours ago, Mechbuilds said:

Please share this engine in this thread: 

Instructions would be awesome! Great work! 

You have created a good theme. I will definitely add my own version, and I will visualize it in Stud.io

[Jurss]

https://www.sheepo.es/2014/10/volkswagen-type-2-t1-bus-11-windows.html

chinese comapnies even made copies.

[howitzer]

4 hours ago, RuTechBrothers said:

<snip>

Considering that the original from Lego was released in 2011, the set has a 10-year anniversary this year.
In addition, I was surprised that no one before me had tried to build this legendary car from Lego tech parts.

<snip>

I actually entertained the idea of building this briefly, as I have a friend who has this set and I could've borrowed it to check out the details. In the end I settled for another model and I don't have enough red parts for a proper reconstruction anyway, though.

[RuTechBrothers]

1 hour ago, Jurss said:

https://www.sheepo.es/2014/10/volkswagen-type-2-t1-bus-11-windows.html

chinese comapnies even made copies.

Thank you for the link. I follow the creativity of Sheepo, and collected his beetle, but I somehow missed T1.

I also want to keep within the scale of the original lego and use 43x14 wheels, as they are more proportional.

[Jurss]

2 hours ago, RuTechBrothers said:

I also want to keep within the scale of the original lego and use 43x14 wheels,

That's good, and will be challenging.

[RuTechBrothers]

I am happy to share the results of my searches. The final version of the chassis combined with the floor and the front of the body.

 

[RuTechBrothers]

Intermediate photo in the cutaway:)

 

Do not pay attention to the yellow rainbow on the roof. I hope that I will find the missing details before the end of the competition.

I buried the license plate. Now I'm thinking whether it's worth closing the engine with a luggage rack, as in the original, or is it better to leave it open in the style of a Technic?

[msk6003]

Using white wheel arch looks perfect!

[blondasek]

Are those links are not working only for me? :) Firefox here. Ublock turned off.

[RuTechBrothers]

55 minutes ago, blondasek said:

Are those links are not working only for me? :) Firefox here. Ublock turned off.

Try the link to my personal album:

https://vk.com/albums493874994

[amorti]

Looking good!

Try to lose the red bushes behind the front wheels. Without it, the wheels will swing back and forth less, so you'll be able to build a neater wheel arch.

Edited July 9, 2021 by amorti

[Jurss]

So far looks pretty OK, just seems too wide.

[Seasider]

Looks great so far but I agree with @Jurss I think you have the ratios of wheelbase, width and height off compared to the real vehicle / original model

Edited July 10, 2021 by Seasider

[RuTechBrothers]

12 hours ago, Jurss said:

So far looks pretty OK, just seems too wide.

 

9 hours ago, Seasider said:

Looks great so far but I agree with @Jurss I think you have the ratios of wheelbase, width and height off compared to the real vehicle / original model

I agree with your comments. My model is one stud wider and one longer than the original set, because it is difficult otherwise to make the transition from an even System to an odd Techniс. Making the model narrower is problematic due to the limited size of the wheelbase. To fully match the scale, wheels of a slightly larger diameter are required, but unfortunately, there is a problem with wheels having the correct aspect ratio in the Lego line.

[SaperPL]

I'm not going to comment on the original proportions, but the pivot on front axle will cause unnecessary trouble. Don't put that additional 1 stud long spacer between the steering arm and wheel, it doesn't make sense.

[Jurss]

10 hours ago, RuTechBrothers said:

My model is one stud wider and one longer than the original set

If You say so. From pictures didn't looked like that. SO then it is OK.

[RuTechBrothers]

On 7/11/2021 at 1:29 AM, SaperPL said:

I'm not going to comment on the original proportions, but the pivot on front axle will cause unnecessary trouble. Don't put that additional 1 stud long spacer between the steering arm and wheel, it doesn't make sense.

If I understand you correctly, you are talking about red bushings. I have already replaced them with yellow ones to deepen the wheels relative to the body, as in the original. But it will not be possible to completely remove them, because the front wheel is held on a brown axle, which does not fly out because of the limiter. If I remove the yellow bushings, the axle will interfere with putting the caps on the disks.

[howitzer]

2 minutes ago, RuTechBrothers said:

If I understand you correctly, you are talking about red bushings. I have already replaced them with yellow ones to deepen the wheels relative to the body, as in the original. But it will not be possible to completely remove them, because the front wheel is held on a brown axle, which does not fly out because of the limiter. If I remove the yellow bushings, the axle will interfere with putting the caps on the disks.

You could replace the brown axle with a frictionless axle-pin. That way there's no need to have a spacer between the wheel and its bearings and the pivot point would be only 1 stud apart from the wheel, making it possible to build smaller fenders.

[SaperPL]

1 hour ago, RuTechBrothers said:

If I understand you correctly, you are talking about red bushings. I have already replaced them with yellow ones to deepen the wheels relative to the body, as in the original. But it will not be possible to completely remove them, because the front wheel is held on a brown axle, which does not fly out because of the limiter. If I remove the yellow bushings, the axle will interfere with putting the caps on the disks.

You can use frictionless tan axle-pins to mount the front wheels if that's what you're worried about.

[RuTechBrothers]

4 hours ago, SaperPL said:

You can use frictionless tan axle-pins to mount the front wheels if that's what you're worried about.

This is really a good offer. I'll use it if necessary.

[RuTechBrothers]

Today I was building the roof of my Volkswagen. During the construction process, I realized that I would still have to reduce the width of the chassis by two pins, since otherwise it would be impossible to get into the scale at all.

The dimensions of the original are 4290x1750x1925. Now I will try to bring the dimensions to 35x15x16 studs.

I wish I had listened to your comments earlier, friends.: (