[TC20] Indy Storm (8445)

[dickylaban]

I found the nose was too thin, so I modified it.
I also re design the mounting of the front wings, now it looks more solid.

 

[Brickend]

That looks much better!

Would it help if the horizontal panels above the engine were one stud lower, to better frame out the side pod intakes and reduce the gap next to the wing?

Edited June 11, 2021 by Brickend

[dickylaban]

4 hours ago, Brickend said:

That looks much better!

Would it help if the horizontal panels above the engine were one stud lower, to better frame out the side pod intakes and reduce the gap next to the wing?

Thank you.
Yes, I also noticed that the side of the center air intake is too high, so I lower it 1 studs & it looks more streamline.
I'll post the picture tomorrow.

 

[langko]

I like it a lot! Super clean and uncluttered. A shame it's not yellow like the original, but I understand most people won't have those parts in yellow.

[dickylaban]

1 hour ago, langko said:

I like it a lot! Super clean and uncluttered. A shame it's not yellow like the original, but I understand most people won't have those parts in yellow.

Thank you.
I'm sorry, unfortunately I didn't have yellow parts to create this.
Maybe I'll do it in red, still under consideration.

 

[Erik Leppen]

I like this model, it's very clean and well paneled. I'm not sure I'd be immediately reminded to the original 8445 set, until I notice how the sides move together with the raised engine cover.

It's alsmost too black-and-white. As a set, this would definitely be plastered with ugly screamy stickers. You might want to toy around with yellow as a secondary color somehow? Not sure that would improve anything though, but it may be worth trying. But right now, because it doesn't have color other than white, and it's so clean, it feels as if it's a "template" of some sort.

By the way, nice usage of the new black 3x2x1 panel extender part :)

[dickylaban]

4 hours ago, Erik Leppen said:

I like this model, it's very clean and well paneled. I'm not sure I'd be immediately reminded to the original 8445 set, until I notice how the sides move together with the raised engine cover.

It's alsmost too black-and-white. As a set, this would definitely be plastered with ugly screamy stickers. You might want to toy around with yellow as a secondary color somehow? Not sure that would improve anything though, but it may be worth trying. But right now, because it doesn't have color other than white, and it's so clean, it feels as if it's a "template" of some sort.

By the way, nice usage of the new black 3x2x1 panel extender part :)

Thank you for your advice.
You're right, this build is my approach to get the recreated model so I build it in white.
I will consider to build it red or yellow.
I still working on the bodywork, I try to replicate the real one with the scale of the 8445.

[dickylaban]

On 6/5/2021 at 1:52 PM, dickylaban said:

The set 8445 (Indy Storm) is a beautiful race car, it was the last studded set before lego technic goes studless.

I start with the steering system
It was the most difficult part to replicate due to its size.

 

New engine setup with complete exhaust system :

New bodywork same as the original set

Edited June 15, 2021 by dickylaban

[Jurss]

These colors look much better.

Maybe for white, You just needed different background.

[dickylaban]

49 minutes ago, Jurss said:

These colors look much better.

Maybe for white, You just needed different background.

Thank you.
I am planning to do the same color as the original, I have order it but maybe it will took a months to deliver.

[dickylaban]

While waiting for my yellow panels arrive, I am going to do comparison between the original set & my studless build, so I will build the set & rebuild the studless one more time.
1.Engine comparison:
Original set on the left, studless on the right.
The mounting for the studless got extend 1 stud at each end, so it add 2 studs to the total length of the engine.
The 1x8 plate replaced by a 6L axle, the mounting bricks replaced by 2x Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Double (part #32291) & an Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular (part #6536) at the center for the drive shaft.
The engine mounting consist of 2x Liftarm Thin 1 x 2 - Axle Holes (part #41677) connected by a 2L axle with 1x Liftarm Thick 1 x 2 - Axle Hole (part #60483) in perpendicular way.
The driving gear also replace with the new 1x Gear 20 Tooth Double Bevel (part 32269)

[dickylaban]

2.Chasis (Frame) with engine & steering.
This picture shows the studded one (right) & the studless one (left).
Both are at the same size.

Edited June 17, 2021 by dickylaban

[Jurss]

Not in width ;) but it is according to contest spirit, because converting to studless means also converting to odd width.

But really good conversion.

But I'm also really struggling with 8440. Basically with front, as on original steering arms goes trough pin holes. With actual steering arms I can't do that, and because of that front becomes pretty massive, I can't build it so compact.

[dickylaban]

On 6/17/2021 at 12:20 PM, Jurss said:

Not in width ;) but it is according to contest spirit, because converting to studless means also converting to odd width.

But really good conversion.

But I'm also really struggling with 8440. Basically with front, as on original steering arms goes trough pin holes. With actual steering arms I can't do that, and because of that front becomes pretty massive, I can't build it so compact.

I keep the original size, so this is even build involving a lot of even-odd conversion building technique.
You can use my approach for the steering system, you have to replace part of the front bodywork with the steering system.(can not use a long liftarm, should be split into 2 part)

I do a small changes to the steering system, now it looks more compact & the arm is looking more stand alone.(without connectors in the previous one)
This changes also make it possible to dismount the front bodywork like the real one.

Edited June 19, 2021 by dickylaban

[Jurss]

9 minutes ago, dickylaban said:

You can use my approach

Thank You, but I wan't also make it as close as possible to original, so  steering arms should be at the back. I hope, I will figure out something better than I have now.

[dickylaban]

3.Front bodywork & Cockpit (monocoque)
I use the new lego technic panel to replace the studded brick to form the bodywork, the result is the width get increment of 1 studs at each end.
The Front wing section can be detach as the real one.
I also change the supporting structure for the front wing by removing the side support axle in the original set, so now it looks more clean.(without sacrified the sturdiness)
Note: I have not received my yellow panels, so I use the white one instead. This will be replace after I got the yellow one.

Edited June 19, 2021 by dickylaban

[SaperPL]

The subject is really cool and you're doing good on the mechanics, but I feel like the vibe of your model is completely different than the original one.

The original was sleek because it was barely covered by the panels with few lines marked with studded beams, what you are doing is completely changing the amount of body work and it feels a lot bulkier than the original one. Sometime less is more and I think you overdid it with amount of panels.

I would also favour using currently manufactured wheels for such modernisation.

[dickylaban]

9 hours ago, SaperPL said:

The subject is really cool and you're doing good on the mechanics, but I feel like the vibe of your model is completely different than the original one.

The original was sleek because it was barely covered by the panels with few lines marked with studded beams, what you are doing is completely changing the amount of body work and it feels a lot bulkier than the original one. Sometime less is more and I think you overdid it with amount of panels.

I would also favour using currently manufactured wheels for such modernisation.

Thank you for your kind words.

I'm trying to convert the overall look of the model with the panels, I also try to keep the original dimension in the conversion.

I will consider & look for the same size new wheel.

[dickylaban]

After reviewing the last condition, I found that the engine are 1 stud behind.
So I rework the mounting position & now it have the same position as the original set.(4 studs from the seat)

I also move the pivot point for the rear engine hood 1 stud closer to the seat in order to utilize the fake pneumatic arm.

I replaced the flex axle with panels to form the side bodywork (bottom part) & extend it to cover the exhaust system.
Following are the comparison

Rear view


Front view


Side view
I also put a similar opening button to open the engine hood behind the seat, so it can be push in order to open it.


Rear view with opening engine hood.

Height comparison

Rear height (Air intake)


Front height (Cockpit)

Edited June 24, 2021 by dickylaban

[dickylaban]

Note: The white panels will be replace with a yellow one when I have got it on hand.

[marcus2388]

why don't you use the panels on the wing also for the nose? Lego did the same thing on the studded model by using the brick in both places. this might help achieving a more similiar (and thinner) look. 

 

[SaperPL]

I think the nose was better on this version - currently the drop/angle is too big and it looks bad from some angles.

The original set had it elevated as well.

[dickylaban]

13 hours ago, SaperPL said:

I think the nose was better on this version - currently the drop/angle is too big and it looks bad from some angles.

The original set had it elevated as well.

Thank you for your suggestion, I will consider it.
 

14 hours ago, marcus2388 said:

why don't you use the panels on the wing also for the nose? Lego did the same thing on the studded model by using the brick in both places. this might help achieving a more similiar (and thinner) look. 

 

Thank you for your suggestion, I will consider it & try to get it works.
 

[dickylaban]

This is the final design of the compact steering system, it has the same width as the original set.
More sturdy and bigger turning angle.

[dickylaban]

I try to use the part #71708 as the nose of the front bodywork, it was not easy to connect it with the other parts behind.
The far right is most possible & looking good setup but it didn't connected to the 7L liftarm.