Gratings and Hatch Coamings (and other deck furnishings)

[kurigan]

I see a lot of builders still using the old panel of 4070 (headlight bricks) on their side, to cover hatch ways. It works, I suppose, but it's limiting and not quite the thing, honestly. There is a much simpler method that looks more realistic and opens up a lot of options for including other elements, that I've used for years now and wanted to share. I've seen a few pick-up on this, or something like it, but I don't think I've seen any one break it down yet. Keep in mind; this is not so much "look what I've done" as it is "Look what you can do!"  While I invite you all to add to this list with your own innovations, I have to say: If you're only chiming in to "show me up" or "tell me off" you can go start your own thread, where you can sit atop your hill and be king all by yourself . What I'm offering here, obviously, is adapted, specifically to my own MOCs, as I took the images right off my various constructions on display in my office, in different states of completion. That doesn't mean that there aren't myriad ways to apply any of it to you're own builds. For instance, if you're not OK with gravity connections you can google methods for stud flipping and enjoy a feast of clever ideas.

 

Let's quickly cover the terminology and then I'll get to showing you what I've got to offer. Those large holes in the deck which allow passage between levels are called hatch ways. Often, they can be covered with a hatch, which is a hinged or removable plank(s) that close them off. There can also be a number of different constructions, like skylights. Most commonly modeled, especially on men-o-war, are gratings which are a latticework of wooden bars which allow light and air to pass through, but still provide a platform so the deck space is not lost to the void. Around these hatch ways is a frame that called a coaming, which discourages water on the deck, from flowing through the hole to the deck below. These can also support such handy accessories as hand rails and shot garlands which are boards with carved depressions that hold cannon balls so they are ready and near by the guns.

 

Ok, first, a really basic set, the likes of which I think you could work into most any kind of MOC. These are on Reckless and are made up mostly of 3005 on a plate(s) with a few 4070s and 87087s to hold tiles that make that coamings. These just plop down in the hatch way and rest on the frame below. Again, there are a number of ways you could flip studs to lock these in place, or prop them up the keep the removable, depending on your own build.

 

This one is on the current iteration of Scorpion and is similar but needed to be tiles on the bottom so the coamings make up part of the structure. The all black looks neat in context, but makes it hard to see the detail of what parts were used, how. Tan or brown are definitely better and would look more realistic.

 

 

These are on Snake, which I'm modeling on the historic HMS Snake. Here I changed up the coamings to include some 4865s and such which now act as shot garlands. You can also see how I used a combination of 4070s and 87087 to divide the forward hatch between a companion way and the open hatch, though which the chimney passes. The shot are actually air soft pellets I painted black. At 6mm they're a little over sized for a 3062b barrel, but what ever, they look neat. The little slip of card stock just props it up to be more level with the sloping deck.

 

These are on a MOC I haven't revealed yet and go a step farther with alternative parts. The spacing of the deck precluded the usual tiles, so I used the 4856s as shot garlands again but to complete the coaming I slipped some rubber bands around each. They are Lego rubber bands but the shot are pin heads, I blacked with a Sharpie.

 

 

 

So that's what I have so far, what have you got to offer? I know I'm not the only one to use this method, nor is it necessarily best, so let's make it a conversation. Add your clever solutions to the hive mind.

 

Cheers!

Dave

 

P.S. Sorry for the dust and poor lighting. I had this idea and literally, just went around the room, snapping pictures with my phone where the ships lie as they are. There's definitely a dust problem down here

 

Edited February 18, 2021 by kurigan

[Capt Wolf]

It's always good to see informative posts like this, and you offer some good techniques. Thanks!

26 minutes ago, kurigan said:

what have you got to offer?

Seeing your apparently hand-carved wooden belaying pins in the first pic, I thought I'd add that I've found that piece 13790, the club that comes with the CMF constable, makes a reasonable belaying pin.

[kurigan]

@Capt Wolf Thanks and you're most welcomed .

On the other thing though: Bit off topic but we can expand the conversation to include other deck furniture, why not? Yeah the long and the short of it is, that I tried a lot of Lego parts, including the truncheon, but nothing quite worked how I needed it to. The hand turned ones are a throw back all the way to Ramcat. When I tore her down to build Reckless, I was on a dead line and wanted to keep part of her in the new version anyway, so I made the several more I was lacking for the new rig and kept her that way. After Ramcat I started working on 3D printed pins, that kind of worked out. The first run went on Nonesuch, but the second run didn't fit as well. I never yet ordered more, since Shapeways prices went up and it stopped being economical. As I need them again in the future I'll reach out find someone to trade a favor with, who can print them with more care.