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I have mode some progress :classic:

Fist of all I made some changes to the front frame to allow the radiator to be mounted like this: 

IMG_20210726_101645.jpg

 

Second I started with the interior. The gaps will be filled with the new 1 stud wide panel (Part 71708)

IMG_20210726_101434.jpg
 

Turning the blue gear 1/4 turn switches between 4wheel steering and 2 wheel steering.

The LBG gear is to control the pop-up headlights.

 

And last I finished that top slope of the front bumper (studs are only temporary, I don't have the needed brick modified). And I made a hood:

IMG_20210726_101542.jpg

I am not really happy with how the hood looks, as I expected such a big flat surface looks kind of plain. Hood Vents it is!

 

One thing I would like to show in detail is the use of 5L plates with rounded corners. they work really well here, because they look very similar to liftarms. This buildding technique was needed to give the headlights enough space to open and close.

IMG_20210726_101350.jpg

 

That's all for now!

 

@syclone yes the window frame would bend under the weight of the trunk  The folding mechaism is probably my best bet I think.

Edited by Gray Gear

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I love how all the pieces comes together, you are truly good at handling the joints, Especially on the zone of the pop up headlights.

Edited by sebulba56

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That engine bay:wub:

Interesting solution with 5L liftarms, I see you're also using a 1x1 round tile with a pimple (tube?) to continue the curve, looks fantastic :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 

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I made a new hood design with a big hood vent. I think it suits the car very well!

IMG_20210729_074641.jpg

It was very difficult to make a hood vent because the area that connects the front piece of the hood to the rest is only very thin. Thinner that a Liftarm between the pop-ups. I had to use some more snot- techniques, but it worked out fine I think.

IMG_20210729_074516.jpg

I know beam staking ist a beginner technique, and I usually avoid using it. But I can't use a 5x11 panel because the rounded edge is needed for the hood to close properly. 

I think beam stacking is the best solution in this case, because my alternative looked like this:

IMG_20210728_180705.jpg

Not very good either, right? I think I prefer the beam staking.

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The vents looks great! Very clean bodywork as usual. It might be just me but I prefer the 3x11 panel over the beam stacking. Although neither looks ugly tbh. 

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I prefer the second design, I feel like it breaks up the monotony of beam stacking on the rest of the hood. 

This model is coming along awesome! I don't build right now (dark ages) but I think this will be a good model to get me back into things after college!

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Well, somehow prefer the beams, as they look much cleaner :laugh:

Hood vent fits great, specially in combination with that rear spoiler :wub_drool:

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I disagree with the fact that beam stacking being a beginner technique, especially when it can be made to create masterpieces like this! :wub:

 

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Finally have time to post how drool worthy that engine looks! Takes me back to my sr20 days. So good. :thumbup:

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This is what it looks like when creator expert 'builds for real' :grin:

Man I love the pop up headlights! My first car was a 1993 Celica with pop up lights so it brings back a lot of memories. 

I personally prefer the beam stacking in the hood... It doesn't look out of place with all the system elements and flows into the front bumper well. I think it also looks smoother without the 4 holes from the panel as well.

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21 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

I made a new hood design with a big hood vent. I think it suits the car very well!

This is the same vent as on the R32, isn't it? It's cool and seems to be very common on S13s, but why don't you go for something different this time? E.g. two smaller vents, one on each side of the hood or something like that (if it can be adapted to the 180SX style front)?

cs.s13.hood.jpg?v=1619732953

I personally would like an opening in the upper part of the bumper of your 180SX, but that wouldn't modify your otherwise clean hood - not that I'd consider it need be. I hope you'll also make a red version with black roof, I like red more than black. :classic:

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@johnnym it is the same style of hood vent as on my R32, yes, but the design is not the same. The new design has only 3 blades instead of 4, and the gap between the blades is larger.

I do think the vent you shared is cool too and would be possible to build for sure. But it is less common and you can't see the engine moving through the vents :wink:

Building instructions will include a version where every bodypanel of the real car has have a different color, and a digital LDCad model too. That way everybody will be able to "paint" the MOC in LDCad the way they like and export the parts list afterwards. I hope this will inspire people to modify my MOC and make it their own!

Edited by Gray Gear

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1 hour ago, Gray Gear said:

@johnnym it is the same style of hood vent as on my R32, yes, but the design is not the same. The new design has only 3 blades instead of 4, and the gap between the blades is larger.

I see, sorry, I didn't look too closely, just noticed the similarity. Thanks for the clarification.

1 hour ago, Gray Gear said:

I do think the vent you shared is cool too and would be possible to build for sure. But it is less common and you can't see the engine moving through the vents :wink:

I agree, that's a really good reason to keep that vent.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

Building instructions will include a version where every bodypanel of the real car has have a different color, and a digital LDCad model too. That way everybody will be able to "paint" the MOC in LDCad the way they like and export the parts list afterwards. I hope this will inspire people to modify my MOC and make it their own!

I have a feeling this won’t be as easy as it sounds due to the extremely limiting LEGO color palette. Not that anyone can build this anyway without paint or 3rd party parts, but would still be difficult I think.

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@LvdH I am aware of this problem. I hope to provide a paintsceme that will be possible with only LEGO, but of course non-LEGO bricks or paint will probably be needed if you want to get creative yourself :sadnew:

But I don't think that is a big problem because some people still build my MOCs even though non-LEGO bricks or paint are needed. LEGO purists might not like it, but I prefer to build a better MOC for myself that to worry about what bricks I am allowed to use during the build :grin:

 

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Amazing progress! It would be nice if this could drift by having each rear wheel moved by its own motor, I wanted to try this with an AE86 MOC.

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@StudWorks The 180SX has been more or less complete for a while now, but i have still been making minor improvements. But since I have reached a stage now where I can't find anything I could improve any more, I have started working on making building Instructions two days ago. The MOC is splattered in subsections all over my table right now :head_back:

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Okay, I need some quick feed back. While making building instructions I have of course made a few changes regarding structural integrity and ease of assembly. But I have made some further improvements to the bodywork as well.

This is an alternative to my previous solution regarding the curved 3x13 panels used on the roof. 1 Stud row was missing, I am sure many before me faced this problem. What do you think looks better? Old (right) or New (left) solution?

800x450.jpg

Also, if you know of any better way to solve this problem please let me know :D

Gray Gear

Edited by Gray Gear

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I like the one on the left better, can't even say why though. The one on the right follows the contour more closely but looks a little odd to me.

I'm sure others may think just the opposite though. Very well done vehicle as well, always enjoy following and seeing where these projects end up.

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I also vote for left one. It looks cleener. I am glad you are making instructions already. I followed your work from beginning and I really looking forward to build this. Is there more non-lego parts beside mudguards?

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The right one breaks the lines in the horizontal direction. I think it can work if you incorporate the relief pattern; if you're going for a smooth effect I like the left one better.

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