12v- general discussion

[Reker1000000]

Hi Eurobricks train fans,

I'm relatively new to the 12v community (and to Eurobricks), but have done extensive research on MANY aspects of it. I bought a 7745 off of Bricklink, thankfully it had all of the stickers. Sadly as I live in the US, shipping is expensive and I had to buy a voltage converter from Amazon, but everything is working OK right now. I'm planning on ordering a 7858, a 7859, and 2x 7860 for the holidays and some more stuff, such as wires and extra lights to light up the station. Anyone have any tips about the system? Also, my only motor that I have, the contacts on the bottom are starting to wear out. I am going to order a 1151 off of Bricklink so I can break those open and open the motor to replace the contacts and clean the motor if it gets bad. Currently I have 24 curves, 24 straights, and 1 cross track, which is a decent amount of track for starters. I am planning on expanding this layout/setup long-term, hopefully in a couple of months I might actually be able to buy a nice condition 7740! I'm excited to follow the 12v road wherever it may take me, and I am definitely invested in this long-term. Just post anything about the system, from favorite trains to maintenance tips. I appreciate it!

[harry27]

Adding extra power feeds to the track helps keeping it running more smoothly without loss of power. Also keeping the power rails clean. I would recommend isopropyl alcohol (IPA) but only the 99% content as lessers may contain water.

[hsousa]

Woah, I've never even known that the metal contacts beneath a 12v motor could be replaced ! Many thanks for the tip !

I'm also relatively new to the community, and also bought a 7745, and also had all stickers. Also the contacts on the bottom of the motor did wear out and I tried to clean them the best I could with IPA. To clean the track I just used a common orange rubber, works a treat.

@harry27, You mean if one get another controller, it can be connected to another part of the closed layout and it won't interfere with each other?  If so, it's good to know, thanks.

Edited November 21, 2020 by hsousa

[harry27]

11 hours ago, hsousa said:

You mean if one get another controller, it can be connected to another part of the closed layout and it won't interfere with each other?  If so, it's good to know, thanks.

You only need the one controller, just take the track power feeds add extra wires and contacts and attach them at different intervals around your track. Just remember to keep the positive and minus in the same order. Its standard model railway practice as you cannot always rely on the 'teeth' of the power rails to effectively carry the current consistently around track.

[zephyr1934]

14 hours ago, hsousa said:

Woah, I've never even known that the metal contacts beneath a 12v motor could be replaced ! Many thanks for the tip !

I think 3 or 4 years ago someone posted a thread in the forum about replacing the contacts crafted from metal rods rather than donor parts

[Stux]

5 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

I think 3 or 4 years ago someone posted a thread in the forum about replacing the contacts crafted from metal rods rather than donor parts

This one?
 

https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/113994-12v-train-motorbb12v-disassembly-and-repair/

 

thread discusses opening, cleaning and replacing contacts in a 12V motor, with custom machines brass replacements. Then using donor replacements (not ideal), and has CAD measurements for making replacements. 

Edited November 21, 2020 by Stux

[*thomas*]

I don't want to troll this thread, but just my toughts on the 12v system. I grew up as a kid in the 90s, a time when the 9v system was mainstream but 12v was cheap to buy second-hand (30€ for 7750, 50€ for 7740 are just a few examples).

I persisted with the 12v system until my darkages 15 years ago, but have since sold all my 12v track and the majority of the motors and have switched to 9v and PF. The brittle rails drove me nuts and the track has a very narrow geometry.

So, my advice, put the tracks and motors in storage and convert the trains to PF (or 9V) and enjoy them at least as much.

[Stux]

4 hours ago, *thomas* said:

The brittle rails drove me nuts and the track has a very narrow geometry.

So, my advice, put the tracks and motors in storage and convert the trains to PF (or 9V) and enjoy them at least as much.

Yep, I very quickly replaced my 12V tracks with modern RC. So much faster to build and this way I don’t shed a tear every time the kids break a 35 year old rail ;)

[zephyr1934]

18 hours ago, Stux said:

This one?
 

https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/113994-12v-train-motorbb12v-disassembly-and-repair/

 

thread discusses opening, cleaning and replacing contacts in a 12V motor, with custom machines brass replacements. Then using donor replacements (not ideal), and has CAD measurements for making replacements. 

Probably yes, but there may have been a separate thread about making the brass contacts

[Dav1d]

The 12V system is great and I was very disappointed when it was replaced with the 9V system. But the 9V system is much easier to use, for example the track is just one piece rather than 5, and the fact that changing the points isolates the track (with 12V you need two sets of signals). The 12V system has some advantages the sets seem to be have been designed as a system that complement each other. The electric are mixed - you end up with too many wires all over the layout but the remote controlled points, levelling crossing, uncoupler, signals, etc. are all clever.

I still run my 12V trains but with a 9V motor.   

[hsousa]

Hello again everyone. I'm trying to give a second shot at 12v but I'm facing some loose contact from the cable to the transformer, as seen in this video:

I don't have a spare cable attached to a track to test so I don't know if the issue is in the trafo or in the cable. I suspect both, as the holes in the trafo also show some signs of rust. Does cleaning with an Electric-contact spray helps remove the rust? I'm also planning on using that spray to try to lubricate the only 12v motor we have, fingers crossed !

 

[brummer]

Clean the contakt and wide the fingers from the conektor a little bit.

Then it will be work better

 

 

Torsten

[Andy Glascott]

I use a thin knife blade to widen the connector a little - simply push it gently into the connector from the end. I’ll post a picture later. 
EC061B10-842B-4ADD-8471-3D3B14B0C119 by andyglascott, on Flickr

Edit - photo added

 

Edited March 13, 2021 by Andy Glascott

[Black Knight]

If you want to stick with 12V, get some bb053 -- a brick that should be extremely long lasting -- then you can use PF motors with your tracks and do not have to rely on getting 12V replacement motors.

Edited March 16, 2021 by Black Knight
fix typo

[hsousa]

Those are excellent tips, thank you. @brummer and @Andy Glascott I'm using an X-acto and it seemed to improve the situation a bit, maybe I'll try with a larger blade knife.

 

 @Black Knight I do want to use 12v in the future although sets' prices keep getting more and more expensive. Maybe it's the collectors that are pushing the market rather than pure hobbyists, I don't really know.

 

I also did not knew that that Power Pickup part could be used to power a 12v, any tutorial I could follow in order to learn how to do that?

Cheers / MfG

[bricks n bolts]

On 3/15/2021 at 12:56 PM, hsousa said:

I also did not knew that that Power Pickup part could be used to power a 12v, any tutorial I could follow in order to learn how to do that?

 

That'll be one of mine :