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I was planning to build an improved and updated version of my old 6x6 from 2013 when i got an offer for cooperation from Mouldking which gave me an additional motiviation to design this model.

I decided to go with a 1:10 scale, which would be perfect for the Unimog tyres. The final model dimensions are 60 x 22 x 24 cm

800x600.jpg800x600.jpg

Thanks to the all the amazing work done by fans updating the LDD, I was able to design the model as a modular build made out of a total of over 3100 pieces:

G63%206x6%20LDD.gif

A high number of pieces was needed to made this as detailed representation of the real model as possible. Starting under the hood, there is a detailed working V8 engine connected to the 2 drive motors:

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Inside the cabin there is a working steering wheel connected to the servo motor along with a detailed center console:

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Rear seats and the console between them can be folded to access the BuWizz bricks from the inside:

800x600.jpg

Or you can simlpy fold down the rear wall inside the bed:

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The rear suspension and axles have been designed in such a way to maximize the volume of the bed, which is 15 studs wide, 20 studs long and 6 studs deep, making it my biggest truck bed to date:

800x600.jpg

As you can see all the doors, hood and tailgate can be opened. The front doors even feature limiters:

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Now going from the aesthetics to functionality:

  • The model features a 6x6 drive which can be powered by a pair of RC, Monster or upcoming BuWizz motors.
  • Power is transfered to all the axles via a 2 speed gearbox.
  • Each axle has a 1:12,6 gear ratio, allowing the 3kg heavy model to crawl over larger obstacles with ease.
  • Low gear has a 1:12,6 gear ratiom while the high gear is overdrive, featuring a gear ratio of 1:7,56, allowing for higher speeds.
  • Just like the real vehicle, the model uses live axle suspension with different spring rates.
  • First and second axles use hard shock absorbers while the rear-most axle uses the soft version.
  • Each axle uses a panhard rod with the rear axles uses two for even greater robustness

Of course, I can't forget the most important photo:

800x370.jpg

And finally here's a video of the model in action:

 

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That is a great build.   Functions almost flawlessly.  Great power for such a big rig.   Thxs for sharing.   

and love the kids in the background...

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Thank you for sharing.

Looks great! Impressive power too. I didn't get a sense from the video of if/when you changed gear, was it going up those hills in high or does it have even more speed to give than that??

Wonder what batteries it'll come with from MouldKing? As long as they leave space for 2 buwizz then all good.

Edited by amorti

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Looks very nice! I like clean overall look.

I think it is a good development that Mould King is working with MOCers as well instead of stealing their work.

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8 hours ago, amorti said:

Looks great! Impressive power too. I didn't get a sense from the video of if/when you changed gear, was it going up those hills in high or does it have even more speed to give than that??

Most of the offroad scenes were recorded in low gear, high gear was used when driving on flat sand though.

The gear ratios are quite close, only being 1,67 apart. Originally I wanted to have more gearing down in the gerabox and less gearing on the axles, but it proved too much for the gearbox, so I had to redesign the driveline. Any more gearing up than 1,67 could cause the axles to start melting under such high RPM.

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That looks great! I am really impressed with the performance as well.

If you don’t mind me asking, is this going to be a MK exclusive? I would love to build this one but I honestly cannot support MK.

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Very nice, big vehicle.

But I was wondering about the design of the 2 speed gearbox. When I build a multiple speed gearbox the red gears always seem to slip in the coupling.

I also see that a central differential is not used. I did not use that on my 4x4 refeuler truck and that caused broken gears and couplings in my front axle differential.

The 2 speed gearbox looks simple can you show us the gearing of this model?

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Also: not a stolen MOC, arocs tyres, and blue seats. If anything from MouldKing could make it on to the Held der Steine Channel (=Hero of the Stones, a German Lego YouTuber) this could.

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2 hours ago, MikeTwo9398 said:

Very nice, big vehicle.

But I was wondering about the design of the 2 speed gearbox. When I build a multiple speed gearbox the red gears always seem to slip in the coupling.

I also see that a central differential is not used. I did not use that on my 4x4 refeuler truck and that caused broken gears and couplings in my front axle differential.

The 2 speed gearbox looks simple can you show us the gearing of this model?

The red gear might slip if you don't have anything pushing it inside.

That is why I'm using a combination of a worm gear and 8 tooth gear so the switching lever can't be pushed out.

I omitted the central differential because it would reduce the offroad performance.

As requested here is the driveline of the vehicle:

1280x680.jpg

40 minutes ago, amorti said:

Also: not a stolen MOC, arocs tyres, and blue seats. If anything from MouldKing could make it on to the Held der Steine Channel (=Hero of the Stones, a German Lego YouTuber) this could.

Actually, the wheels are from Unimog, it's a 1:10 scale. I do hope Held gets it eventually!

Edited by Zerobricks

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I know MouldKing is a tough sell around here and that's because they've stolen designs from various members.

Even so, this one is licensed to the designer, and it's going to be imported to Europe by my favourite alternate bricks seller bluebrixx.de so no need to send out money in a red envelope to some unknown Chinese seller.

Also while it won't come with a proportional remote, it'll be fitted with MouldKing's new proportional servo motor and battery, which can be proportionally controlled via app if you don't have the proportional remote.

https://youtu.be/CgqvLZQLpjg

...And two higher powered buggy motors.

I don't know what the price will be yet, but if it's anything under 300€ for this model, with MouldKing's part quality (absolutely negligible colour variation and very smooth technic functions) and that list of PF parts... I'm definitely in.

Thanks in advance to @Zerobricks, I'm already excited for this one!

Edited by amorti

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@Zerobricks how hard would it be to convert this to buwizz 3.0? Seems like the powered up M motor 45303 would fit fine for the gearbox, but I'm not sure what powered up motor could best be used for steering?

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Just now, amorti said:

@Zerobricks how hard would it be to convert this to buwizz 3.0? Seems like the powered up M motor 45303 would fit fine for the gearbox, but I'm not sure what powered up motor could best be used for steering?

Good question.

I'd use the L motor for steering, though the front axle might need a bit of a redesign.

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It seems worthwhile to try, as there's not really any good stepless steering solution with power functions.

I just had another Lego servo (nowadays ~80€ worth!!) fail yesterday. Same thing as the last two, the metal tracks in the circuit board get continuity between neighbouring pads, and then you need to open it up. The first two times I sent to Lego for a new one before opening the broken one (how much more broken can it be than broken?) Now though, they don't have new ones.

2/3 I opened works again after that (one couldn't be saved or was my learning curve), but once opened its obvious and those are not worth 80€ anymore.

They're working on it but MouldKing's PF servos still don't really do proportional steering properly, yet.

So, considering everything I think it might be worthwhile to try mixing pf and p-up...

Edited by amorti

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There are a lot of cases where the CV joint between the exhaust pipes is causing enough friction to waller out the hole in the large frame, and snap the CV joint.

25:40

 

6:45, and this guy confirms the problem is well known in the Chinese forum.

It would be easy to put the failure on Chinese part quality, however I don't think it's the case. Let's look closely at this pic (deliberately high resolution), focussing on the area between the exhaust tips.

IMG_20201006_133544.jpg

The central suspension link is 9L long, the driveshaft is only 6L long. The suspension link and driveshaft pivoting points aren't even near the same location. These two things will mean the driveshaft needs to grow and shrink quite a bit with suspension movement, but the joints at each end don't slide.

Also, I think I see the panhard rod pulling that centre axle "up" in the picture. This will also create friction exactly at the point where the CV joint has been failing.

Any thoughts, @Zerobricks?

Edit: I noticed the panhard links between the rear axles are from opposite side, and quite short. As the suspension travels, that's going to twist the axles in some interesting angles.

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Well, I have yet to have a failure at my end, though I'm using a different differential and gear ratio.

The location of the axle and joint is irrelevant, since they all move in perfect parallel - all links are the same length - 9 studs

The maximum difference in height between axle and chassis is 1 stud in positive or negative and U joint and the CV joints have enough slack to absorb the difference in length.They are also posiitoned and centered to be at minimum angle as possible.

I don't know what to add, again my model configuration had no issues even after recording the model outdoor in the sand and such, I can send you the photos of the CV joint if you are interested.

 

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Well, if your original is fine, I guess it can be that MouldKing used a slightly different type of plastic and it melts easier.

There's not much other explanation since with two buwizz, yours would be packing more speed into that shaft.

Or... MouldKing's version uses 3* identical 9.5L shocks. No idea how the spring rate is. Does yours use 6.5L shocks in the middle axle?

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I'm using hard shock absorbers on the first and second axle, third one uses soft ones, so mine may lie a bit lower, so the drive axle angles are lower too.

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Hi. I dont find this Moc on Rebrickable. 

When I have bought it, I want to be able to use the Brickset on rebrickable. Is there a parts list on the Mould King Build Instructions? Or how should I register 3686 parts on rebrickable?

Edited by Tiox

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