amorti

Brunojj1's mind-opener - red supercar - free instructions now available for static version

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Guys. From all your helpful comments,

I understand:

  • Cada's older type diff is inferior to Lego's.
  • To replace the diff with newer type requires couple of changes.

I decided to use Lego's older type differential to use in the red beauty. I will take the diff from the Le man's racer moc (42093, Grohl) and use the newer type diff in the orange beauty :pir-blush:

Before pouring all that efforts (I'll note down all the suggested workaround to fit the new one) I want to give the old (Lego) diff one more go.

@astyanaxif you show or point me to your workaround in any form I'll be helped. 

Edited by thekoRngear

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The workarounds costs you 3 extra knob gears, but maintains the 90-degree stepping and works fine. I'll post some pics as soon as I get to my computer.

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7 minutes ago, astyanax said:

The workarounds costs you 3 extra knob gears, but maintains the 90-degree stepping and works fine. I'll post some pics as soon as I get to my computer.

I have em (2 in black, one in yellow though). Much appreciated!!!

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@thekoRngear First, extend the topmost gearshift axle by 1L and mount a knob gear, for example as at the top of the image below. NOTE: on both sides of the yellow knob gear you see 2 blue long pins sticking up out of the H-frame; you need those too.

 

800x519.png

Then, on those 2 blue long pins, attach the following contraption with the HOG shifter:

800x439.png

Note: don't push down this contraption too firmly onto the 2 blue long pins, otherwise the knob gears will have undue friction.

Edited by astyanax

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1 hour ago, thekoRngear said:

Cannot wait to see your stock vs pimped video!!!

Cannot wait for PaB to open up again!! Missing some panels to build a 2nd model....

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2 hours ago, astyanax said:

Cannot wait for PaB to open up again!! Missing some panels to build a 2nd model....

Why didn´t you ask me?

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Wow I didn't know you have the power to open up PaB again!! :head_back:

But seriously, it's been supposed to open up 'imminently' since a month... Each day I think I can wait another day, and then here we are...

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Guys, is there any ways to make the battery box mounting a bit secured without making any changes in the default front design? It sits normally fine howevr, a bit collision and the batterybox gets displaced.

Again happens rarely, just the 1/2 pins seem a bit weak for holding it. I tried but the hood's position poses challenge. 

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Hello 

If you check my pics on page 23, you'll see how I secured mine.

I had an extra beam to go across behind the batbox, some extra pins, 2x1 plate on box and ... :)

No movement any more and it can still be charged in car.

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53 minutes ago, El Barto said:

Hello 

If you check my pics on page 23, you'll see how I secured mine.

I had an extra beam to go across behind the batbox, some extra pins, 2x1 plate on box and ... :)

No movement any more and it can still be charged in car.

Hey! I am pretty much sure I went through your post back in late February 2022 and the problem still persists- the pics don't load or are shown broken like this Edri7CH.jpg. Could be a problem viewing from this region of world.
Sharing them or at least the batbox & changing hood support mods from Google drive with link or any other link is highly appreciated.

Edited by thekoRngear

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@thekoRngear somewhere deep down in this thread is another idea by @amorti (iirc) to secure the hood itself using 3L axles with stud. There's a photo of how to do it. I also used this trick in my version on Rebrickable.

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2 minutes ago, astyanax said:

@thekoRngear somewhere deep down in this thread is another idea by @amorti (iirc) to secure the hood itself using 3L axles with stud. There's a photo of how to do it. I also used this trick in my version on Rebrickable.

That is also noted. Yes, he did something like that iirc back in 2021. I'll check that. Thanks!

Edited by thekoRngear

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7 minutes ago, El Barto said:

This is how mine looks under the hood nowhigqpUn.jpg

Using the VPN does the trick. Thanks a lot man!

Edited by thekoRngear

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Hi all this is my first post so I hope I do it right! I finally received my yellow version of @brunojj1’s beautiful 488 pista. This is my very first car I’ve tied to build not to mention the size and number of pieces lol. I am an auto mechanic and working 4 speed gear box is the what really intrigued me to get this one ( not to mention all the other insanely cool functions she comes with ). I’ve already received the 2 extra Cada motors and have been researching how to add them properly to the build as I build it. @amorti has been very helpful with some pics on the Cada Facebook page. If anybody has any other helpful tips or pics I would greatly appreciate. I don’t have a computer to look and things like stud.io, Ldraw and such, im kinda limited to what I can see with my ol iPhone lol. Thanks so much in advance

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Sorry, late to the party on @brunojj1 Ferrari 488 Pista (Manual Version) with @astyanax headlight and wheel arch modifications.
Built in 100% LEGO, such an enjoyable build and the finished car looks good too - better than the Ferrari Daytona that it’s sitting next too! 
Used a selection of black connectors for the bottom of the windscreen, instead of the red soft axle, slight mod to tail-lights and side mirrors a work in progress. A standard New Zealand ‘FERRARI’ registration plate in place, just waiting a few more printed ‘Scuderia Ferrari’ items to arrive to finish it off.


800x600.jpeg
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Edited by LegoHoops
Text

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I have the static version of this beauty, but I noticed that when I shifted the gears with the knob in the back it didn’t move the paddles behind the steering wheel.

The problem was that in the instructions provided by CaDa they are not connected, both sides have a 4 knob gear, I replaced with a 4L pin and two axel connectors and works great!

The only issue now is that you can’t completely turn the knob to change gears but it’s not a motorized version so it is not that terrible.

01sy52O.jpg

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Hi, I don’t know if this is the place to ask this type of questions, but I’m having trouble in the last part of this build:

When I insert the “red clamps” they are extremely loose so they fell out.

one solution could be to put the grey half pin in the car upside down (the short side up), in that case the clamps stays put because is tighter.

I’m I missing something or it should be loose?

 

kvrGZOg.jpg

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Ferrari 488 Pista with Yellow stripes added using leftover parts from a Bugatti Bolide kit. Finished off with printed Ferrari Liftarm and assorted Tiles
800x600.jpeg

800x600.jpeg

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