amorti

Brunojj1's mind-opener - red supercar - free instructions now available for static version

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54 minutes ago, Gray Gear said:

YourWOBB is selling Metal unniversal joints seperately if anyone is interested. About 8€ for a pack of 4. Link

It sad that the shipping is not available everywhere...

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55 minutes ago, Gray Gear said:

YourWOBB is selling Metal unniversal joints seperately if anyone is interested. About 8€ for a pack of 4. Link

Those look like the ones supplied with MouldKing kits. Quality is poor if so, notably worse than the ones in the CaDA set.

2 hours ago, astyanax said:

They're not exactly "laying around", but when I need some System parts, I "borrow" them from sets like 10265 (Mustang) or 76139 (Batmobile) that I have on display. They'll temporarily be a bit more fragile, but no-one will see they're missing a few brackets underneath. :pir-sweet:

It's like I learned nothing from the Koncept Mantis... :laugh_hard:

Worse, I have the tendency to interpret warnings as challenges... So on that note, let me share an idea for the mirrors. I had a few (minor) issues with those:

  • the rearview mirror has an exposed stud
  • the sideview mirrors don't have a trans-clear piece like the rearview mirror does -- a stylistic inconsistency
  • the sideview mirrors' connections are too low on friction, as pointed out in Sariel's video review (I expect also the rearview mirror to be wobbly)

If you use Lego pins, the side mirrors are fine in both planes. Again, your solution is nice but I fear you're going at this "challenge" a bit too hard :D

The fix on the centre mirror is nice. It's fully wobbly per instructions, zero friction.

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@astyanax Coming back on your idea of the rear- and sideview-mirror.

The sideview-mirrors look good but are too small for the model

50676524131_bdbb20b671.jpg

The rearview mirror just needs a little title..

50675777733_5d3f02e7bd.jpg

 

Ah.. That beautifull servo stepper...

(Hence the question to @brunojj1?)

But it works like a charm in my model, I still have no idea how it works...

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@JunkstyleGio Don't underestimate my appetite for fighting over tiny details! :pir-grin:

Even returning to the original size for the sideview mirrors, I maintain they look better with System pieces. My main reason for this claim is style consistency: if the rearview mirror gets a transparent plate, so will my sideview mirrors. :sweet:

Compare original and mod:

ferrari488pista_brunojj1_mirrors_v1.png

The driver side mirror is composed of 85x85p.jpg, 85x85p.jpg, 85x85p.jpg, 85x85p.jpg, 85x85p.jpg.

Edited by astyanax

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1 hour ago, Gray Gear said:

@astyanax You've been on a tiny detail improvement streak for a while now, and I like what you are doing :wink:

Yeah I was afraid you guys might be thinking I'm trying to turn this thread into a personal blog or something... :innocent:

As the next tiny detail, I might get rid of the 2 red pins at the top of the windshield... seems straightforward enough...

But I'm hoping to get some physical building done this weekend, reconstructing the gearbox as per Bruno's idea above. I'll be stuck indoors anyway, as they're expecting a meter of fresh snow to fall in my Alpine town tomorrow... :shrug_oh_well:

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On 12/3/2020 at 5:41 PM, astyanax said:

The servo stepper has found its way to Rebrickable. Not sure if this was an invention of @brunojj1, but the Rebrickable entry does not quote any source for the idea.

Basically the shown stepper is my idea. But I don`t want to claim anything here because my idea is based on an idea which is based on another idea from somebody else etc. I think the most progress on steppers in general has been made and shared here by @Didumos69 and other nice guys. I needed it to be compact and reliable and it is. The jamming which sometimes occurs, mostly in one of the both directions, is due to interference of the orange +0 beams with the red 16t gear on the middle axle - the CaDA parts have sharper edges and can collide sometimes (where Lego parts don´t!!). Easy fix #1 was offered in my video to deal with that.

On 12/4/2020 at 12:01 AM, astyanax said:

(..)

As the next tiny detail, I might get rid of the 2 red pins at the top of the windshield... seems straightforward enough...

(..)

I´m interested in such a solution. Though I think you will have to modify the construction under the roof quite a bit, at least.

On 12/4/2020 at 12:01 AM, astyanax said:

(..)

But I'm hoping to get some physical building done this weekend, reconstructing the gearbox as per Bruno's idea above. I'll be stuck indoors anyway, as they're expecting a meter of fresh snow to fall in my Alpine town tomorrow... :shrug_oh_well:

If you get it running at this gear combo, using 4x CaDA motors and double BuWizz at ludicrous speed and make a video of it - that would be the icing on the cake of everything, my friend  :excited:!!

In the meanwhile there is the possibility to have a more moderate upgrade by swapping the rear gears like this:

800x416.jpg

Edited by brunojj1

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11 minutes ago, brunojj1 said:

 a more moderate upgrade by swapping the rear gears like this:

800x416.jpg

I struggle to decode gearboxes. Will this just influence two if the speeds?

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On 11/29/2020 at 7:47 PM, amorti said:

I should make a video.

As you can see top speed isn't up much, but it is now much happier to start in 4th.

Edit:

Unfortunately at the time my wife was willing to humour me and hold the camera, the batteries were low at 7.6v. it is a little faster with 8v. Either way, that's a 2.7kg model about moving pretty well, I'd say.

Edit again: sorry for potato quality. I think YouTube is still processing it for HD? IDK.

Edited by amorti

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I'd rather build this through rebrickable at least. I don't really like off brand bricks. I'm sorry. It's an amazing car & I'd rather have it in Lego instead.

Edited by Robo-Knight

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1 hour ago, Robo-Knight said:

I'd rather build this through rebrickable at least. I don't really like off brand bricks. I'm sorry. It's an amazing car & I'd rather have it in Lego instead.

Fair enough, if brand loyalty is so important then it's your choice. Unfortunately the instructions aren't available without buying the set from CaDA. Would you go so far as to buy it, use the instructions to build it out if Lego, then sell the CaDA kit on? Because that's basically the only option you have to build it out of Lego.

Ps. Don't confuse CaDA with Lepin or any other IP theft brands. The CaDA parts aren't as good as MouldKing parts but are way better than Lepin. But at least you can buy CaDA kits with a clean conscience.

It's no different than buying an "off brand" car because it's not got Benz written on it. After all, they were the first, right?

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On 12/5/2020 at 12:17 PM, brunojj1 said:

In the meanwhile there is the possibility to have a more moderate upgrade by swapping the rear gears like this:

....

 

On 12/5/2020 at 12:31 PM, amorti said:

I struggle to decode gearboxes. Will this just influence two if the speeds?

Ok, maybe we should explain a bit better how a „simple“ 4-speed RC gearbox concept can work and how you can step up the game. Using Sariel`s Gear Ratio Calculator makes life easier.

We are skipping equal meshes and count all gear reductions till the differential.

1.GEAR: 12/20 + 20/24 + 20/28 = 1 : 2.8

640x333.jpg

2.GEAR: 12/20 + 20/28 = 1 : 2.3

640x333.jpg

3.GEAR: 20/24 + 20/28 = 1 : 1.7

640x333.jpg

4.GEAR: 20/28 = 1 : 1.4

640x333.jpg

By swapping the gears behind the differential we are having the following sequence:

1.GEAR: 12/20 + 24/20 + 20/28 = 1 : 1.9

2.GEAR: 12/20 + 20/28 = 1 : 2.3

3.GEAR: 24/20 + 20/28 = 1 : 1.17

4.GEAR: 20/28 = 1 : 1.4

Somebody might say we have messed up the sequence now. It´s not the case if you simply reverse the sequence and change numbers (in your mind first :wink:) :

2 → 1; 1 → 2; 4 → 3; 3 → 4

Edited by brunojj1

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On 12/5/2020 at 12:17 PM, brunojj1 said:

I´m interested in such a solution. Though I think you will have to modify the construction under the roof quite a bit, at least.

Maybe I'm too naive, but I was thinking in this direction...

800x484.jpg

 

As you're undoubtedly aware, the headlights are sitting slightly too low. Clearly this was done to have room from behind for inserting the LED. But somehow I never bothered to acquire LEDs. So I'm building without lights. Which to me raised the question whether I can move the headlights to a better position. I'm not happy yet with the exact connection, but the position seems better to me. Compare original and mod:

ferrari488pista_brunojj1_front_v0.png

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38 minutes ago, astyanax said:

Maybe I'm too naive, but I was thinking in this direction...

800x484.jpg

You'll see the black pin, peeking proudly out from the top. I think it looks worse overall than the existing solution, YMMV.

2 hours ago, brunojj1 said:

 

2 → 1; 1 → 2; 4 → 3; 3 → 4

Thank you.

I think it does make sense. I am confident the motors can pull the extra speed and (I think) it's easy enough to access those gears on the constructed car, with less modification needed overall.

Edited by amorti

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33 minutes ago, amorti said:

You'll see the black pin, peeking proudly out from the top. I think it looks worse overall than the existing solution, YMMV.

But you see black pins everywhere among the red bodywork, so it doesn't distract at all. IMO it's better to see black where red was expected, than to see red where black was expected. :sweet:

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800x450.jpg

800x450.jpg

So, I gave it a go.

It does run a little faster, however it also introduces a clicking of gear teeth upon first acceleration in the fastest gear. So, time to inspect it and work out what's happening. I wasn't able to catch it in the act, but I found some suspects.

You can see there's some plastic dust on the teeth of the differential. This is the only bevel connection with power going through it, and it shows. 

20201206_182732.jpg

This mesh blue/black is also showing wear. You can also see some plastic dust on the red gear at the bottom right of frame.

20201206_182740.jpg

These are both clutch gears, which have slop on the axle by design. 

No idea if a gearbox made of exclusively Lego gears would be better, but I wouldn't count on it. As far as I can tell without deconstructing the gearbox, these don't have noticeably more slop on an axle than Lego gears.

Before anyone declares CaDA as China junk, keep in mind that my copy of the model now weighs 2.7kg, and has 4 high power motors (they really are a lot stronger than Lego motors) and two battery boxes which albeit at 8v, are capable of kicking out good amperage. That's a lot of torque for plastic gears to handle.

Might be time to quit the quest for more power and speed; I think plastic gears are dropping some pretty major hints that they don't need more power. Maybe CaDA even found this and that's why they sent the model with only 2 motors :pir-sad2:

Edited by amorti

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If you want a higher top speed could remove the gearbox to reduce friction and skip the weight of the additional servo as well. While the working gearbox is a great achievement, I doubt it really helps with top speed.

The only way to get that much power to the ground without wearing out LEGO pieces is to build a car with a solid rear axle, and using 4 Buggy Motors to power the rear wheels directly unsing an aftermarket steel axle. Only this would skip all weak links. I'd like to do this on a MOC myself, but this is $$$$$ :hmpf_bad:

Edited by Gray Gear

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@Gray Gear you are right, the gearbox can't help with top speed, but it is cool and the main thing that convinced me to build a 1:8 supercar. I learned from the 1:10 Lego Porsche RSR and Madoca's Icarus, that sticking panels together isn't my idea of fun. That said, on this model it was more enjoyable than those, because the connections used were so inventive and the most sturdy and well-interconnected that I've seen so far.

So, this one stays as it is. If I want to drive a large model fast I have Koncept Mantis with 4* MouldKing motors. That one is stupidly fast :)

Edited by amorti

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I felt like the headlights could be slightly bigger, wanted to see how that looks.....

ferrari488pista_brunojj1_altheadlight_v1

Hmmmmmm..... *huh*

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2 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

@astyanax have you tried to use the clutch ring extension?

Well, my idea was to try and use a 85x85p.jpg to truly make the light itself bigger. A minifig head fits inside a barrel (kinda gruesome thought, now that I'm writing that down...). But nothing bulb-like fits inside a clutch ring extension.

Anyhow, I don't think this is gonna lead to any improvement over my earlier brick-built solution that just lifts and moves out the 85x85p.jpg a bit...

Edited by astyanax
pic included

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