amorti

Brunojj1's mind-opener - red supercar - free instructions now available for static version

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2 hours ago, Ludo Visser said:

@Jim can the "community future direction"-part of this discussion be split into a separate topic? I agree with @howitzer that the scope of this topic is not suitable for this, indeed, very important discussion...

I sympathize with your sentiment, but I'm not sure this is a good idea (if possible at all). Although we could wish to have a thread to discuss only the model per se (its design and functionality), I think we have to accept that this model, its beauty, and the respect commanded by its designer, are all important catalysts for the "other" discussion, namely about the competition facing TLG and the community's stance on that. Perhaps we should pragmatically accept that in this case these 2 topics will remain mixed.

(As always I'm respectful and open to counter-opinions!)

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For me, i always compare the Gears, that's the important factor for me, because gears do the hard work! If some other brand get close to lego gears(90%) then i will give that brand an attention of mine! I'm a Technic Construction/Mining Vehicle Man, not a Fan of Super Cars, but if the quality is Good and the Price is way Lower than Lego, then i will give a Try.... 

Hey LEGO..watch out....???

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7 hours ago, SNIPE said:

Here's a problem that I see:

If more and more companies copy lego's part molds,

Then how do we tell what is genuine lego ?.

No rules stipulate that they have to be the same quality.

And, a butt ton of lego parts do not have the lego logo printed on it so "just print the lego logo on real lego parts" is not really a solution.

I don't want the lego brand to perish because of people mistaking bad quality parts for real lego.

idk if this reply is off topic or not, so pls delete if so.

I think we should deal with MOCs and sets differently:

I'd like to see us allowing Technic MOCs that use clone pieces. We allow 3D printed parts (see Efferman) and custom electronics (see MaxBrix), so I don't like the idea of discriminating against someone because they can't afford the premium cost of Lego, yet still wish to share and discuss building techniques with us (we could make them do it through a digital program, but that's just hurting their user experience by making them jump through hoops). For Technic MOCs, I think the building experience is more important than the brand loyalty.

However, for set discussion I'm happy sticking only to official Lego sets, as long as we allow special cases like Bruno and Thijs (T-Lego). Another special case where I thought clone discussion was relevant was in the 42115 topic thread, when MK's Lambo Sian leaked and it turned out to be an original creation, much to our surprise.

That being said, I understand that when you make more complex rules like this, it can become harder to manage and to get people to stick to them.

Edited by Bartybum

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6 hours ago, Dylan M said:

For me, i always compare the Gears,

We won't talk about Lepin gears! But MouldKing's and CaDA's seem to be 100% as good as Lego, except the thin 12t gears. Only because they replicate the old hard plastic grey ones rather than the newer softer tan plastic gears. 

Did you find same?

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20 minutes ago, amorti said:

We won't talk about Lepin gears! But MouldKing's and CaDA's seem to be 100% as good as Lego, except the thin 12t gears. Only because they replicate the old hard plastic grey ones rather than the newer softer tan plastic gears. 

Did you find same?

My experience is the same. GoBricks, MK and Cada gears feel much harder than the tan LEGO ones, and quite similar to the older lg/lbg LEGO gears. They work quite well.

But personally I only use the older (harder) lg/lbg LEGO gears in my MOCs. I always buy used ones that have already passed their break-in-period, those run the smoothest out of all I have tested.

Edited by Gray Gear

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1 hour ago, amorti said:

We won't talk about Lepin gears! But MouldKing's and CaDA's seem to be 100% as good as Lego, except the thin 12t gears. Only because they replicate the old hard plastic grey ones rather than the newer softer tan plastic gears. 

Did you find same?

In my humble experience, I have bad experience with the cada differential, the gears have to much clearance with result they skip teeth under power.  Although I have also another brand less differential where the gears are just a little bigger then those of TLG and these can handle the power of a buggy motor powered by 11V.  But in general for these critical parts I prefer lego, 

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17 minutes ago, roeleman said:

In my humble experience, I have bad experience with the cada differential, the gears have to much clearance with result they skip teeth under power.  Although I have also another brand less differential where the gears are just a little bigger then those of TLG and these can handle the power of a buggy motor powered by 11V.  But in general for these critical parts I prefer lego, 

Yeah I agree the differentials are not completely up to LEGO quality. But I think the half 12t bevel gears are too thin and that causes the skipping. I use knockoff differentials in some of my MOCs with LEGO gears inside. Never had a problem with skipping gears inside the diff.

Edited by Gray Gear

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I did find differentials could be unreliable under a lot of power but also put it down to the thin gears. They're absolutely fine for manual models though.

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2 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

the half 12t bevel gears are too thin

Indeed, I already saw fixes where they use thin spacers between the back of the gears and the housing so the teeth have a bigger contact area.

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This is a really, really beautiful model and I'm ordering it for sure...

As for the discussion of "fake lego", I think it is good to talk about it.

In my opinion, this kind of cooperation should be supported by the community, because, I believe this would not hurt Lego as much as it would hurt other companies that are stealing or just cloning and that "do not bring anything to the table"...

I have few Cada sets I bought mainly because of electronics, but I liked the bricks also, the quality was good and I like the changed design so I can mix or separate them from Lego easily however I want... 

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11 hours ago, Bartybum said:

I don't like the idea of discriminating against someone because they can't afford the premium cost of Lego

That, is an excellent point...

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On 9/25/2020 at 10:45 AM, amorti said:

I did find differentials could be unreliable under a lot of power but also put it down to the thin gears. They're absolutely fine for manual models though.

I´m wondering which differentials you are referring to (offroader?)

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRWrWepipASehFTk2BO3Joimages?q=tbn:ANd9GcR7krqGPL1W3XU41bt5bFI

The latter is working fine at the rear axle of my car, being engaged from both sides in the gearbox.

Another nice part which somebody might find useful for heavy duty RC applications, is the metal U-joint featured 3x in the set as possible alternative, which I found really cool. These are two aluminum pieces connected by a brass joint. You can buy them separately as well here.

640x386.jpg

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3 hours ago, brunojj1 said:

I´m wondering which differentials you are referring to (offroader?)

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR7krqGPL1W3XU41bt5bFI

It would be this type. It was in kevinmoo's forklift, and there was a clicking from the differential area when it had a big difference in speed between the two wheels. To be fair I think it was something else; the 5.5 axles in that model had the shorter short ends (I forget if it was earlier or later Lego 5.5 axles which have this) and they were able to slip in the cross holes of the 12t gears. I changed the diff housing and those two axles at the same time, and so in fact the diff housing might have been fine.

I've posted a previous topic on metal universal joints here. I haven't seen CaDA's version yet, would be interested in which quality level they have in terms of the parts I've seen. The picture you've posted looks better than MouldKing/AliE joints, but not as good as darkicedesigns joints which are made of steel.

Edited by amorti

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7 hours ago, brunojj1 said:

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR7krqGPL1W3XU41bt5bFI

 

I'm talking about this differential.  The gears have to much clearance inside in that matter they start vibrating.  Due to the vibration they skip gears. As a result they start shaking more until they get lose from the axle.  But my situation is not a reference as I use a lifepo4 battery with the 2.4rcbrick (-> https://vk.com/24rcbrick ) which can provide a lot of amp's to the motors.  Aside from this, the lego differential doesn't has this problem.

About the cardan piece, it's on my to buy list as I have already broken a few original cardan pieces on my crawler.

 

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28 minutes ago, roeleman said:

I'm talking about this differential.  The gears have to much clearance inside in that matter they start vibrating.  Due to the vibration they skip gears. As a result they start shaking more until they get lose from the axle.  But my situation is not a reference as I use a lifepo4 battery with the 2.4rcbrick (-> https://vk.com/24rcbrick ) which can provide a lot of amp's to the motors.  Aside from this, the lego differential doesn't has this problem.

About the cardan piece, it's on my to buy list as I have already broken a few original cardan pieces on my crawler.

I can´t confirm the mentioned issues, but could be plausible at least for older generations. CaDA parts are constantly improving and there is a big quality jump from parts used in 2018-19 (e.g. offroader) sets to the parts we are having now. Regarding axles sliding out the diff - I always secure them properly so it can´t happen accidently.

2020-09-27%2020_09_42-Window.png

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Actually @roeleman now that you mentioned it, I recall the pin on which the 3rd gear rides was slightly undersized, and so maybe it clicked due to that when that gear had to turn.

I never did a detailed analysis of the fault. Where everything is Lego compatible, I just swapped it for a genuine part from a non powered model on which you'd never know the difference.

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18 minutes ago, brunojj1 said:

Regarding axles sliding out the diff - I always secure them properly so it can´t happen accidently.

That's indeed a good solution.

I was talking about C51043w, the buggy.  It had a lot of problems: the servo got stuck in steering to the left side.  L-motor broke after approx 10x driving.  The bleu pins brake (probably if I should take it appart now, there would be broken pins inside), bad fit of the axles what made the steering and suspension come lose, remote started to behave weird (for example forward is forward but backwards was also forward).  After complaining including pictures and movie, they send me new parts and new motors, but not the remote.

So I decided I wouldn't buy CADA anymore.  But I beleive you when you say the quality is improved, so maybe I should give it another chance. 

 

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A very detailed building review (part 2 also released). Folk says the design was almost flawless although few parts had issues- the axle-pin connectors had zero clutch power. The longer axle was too stiff. But overall it was, to me, awesome. I accidentally found about CaDa on YouTube. Seriously wanting to get one.

 

Edited by thekoRngear

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2 hours ago, thekoRngear said:

Folk says the design was almost flawless although few parts had issues- the axle-pins connectors had zero clutch power.

Oh my god yes, thank god I'm not the only one. I bought T-Lego's blue Lambo recently and like 46 of the 54 axle-pin connectors had no friction whatsoever. I got sent a few replacements (still waiting on the rest), was promised that I'd receive hand-picked ones, yet a lot of the replacements I've gotten so far also have almost no friction.

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Wish we could build this masterpiece in Lego form! Great job one more time Bruno, the P1 needs Pista's company. ;)

Lorenzo (or anyone else who had built it in Lego), is it possilbe to make it without motors as a static model only?

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I think for a few pieces that seems no clutch power I should not be as much worried...

Edited by thekoRngear

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1 hour ago, vded said:

Wish we could build this masterpiece in Lego form! Great job one more time Bruno, the P1 needs Pista's company. ;)

Lorenzo (or anyone else who had built it in Lego), is it possilbe to make it without motors as a static model only?

You could, but you will miss out on the genius gearbox shifting mechanism. The motors have a bit of a structural purpose so you’ll have to replace those. You can still shift with the indicator behind the engine and push it along though.

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Hey @brunojj1,

 Just wanted to congratulate you on another amazing design.  Looking forward to building this one day.  I am extremely happy that you’ve found the way of sharing your designs with others that work for you.  To me the only thing that matters is creativity and sharing with the community.  
Well done!

KD123

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