CF 28 Posted August 24, 2020 Hello All. This is my newest little creation. Intended to rip it up indoors on flat floors, which it does. Powered by one (off-brand) buggy motor and a buwizz 2.0. Has 4wd with open differentials front and rear, and solid axles front and rear. The lack of suspension allows for a robust chassis which handles the power delivery with no drama. Front tie rods can disconnect if you run into something but is otherwise very reliable, and fun to drive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iLego Posted August 24, 2020 Looks like a lot of fun !! And thanks for the mandatory under chassis picture Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amorti Posted August 24, 2020 Looks very sturdy. Front tie rods could be considered a fuse? You could easily enough form lock them in place though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CF 28 Posted August 24, 2020 12 hours ago, iLego said: Looks like a lot of fun !! And thanks for the mandatory under chassis picture I didn't know it was mandatory, just got lucky 1 hour ago, amorti said: Looks very sturdy. Front tie rods could be considered a fuse? You could easily enough form lock them in place though. Yeah. They stay in place just fine under normal circumstances, it's just when you crash the thing. Really something has to give, it's better than breaking parts. That said, what do you mean by "form lock"? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amorti Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, CF 28 said: , what do you mean by "form lock"? Put a 2L axle in the cross hole on the steering rack, go down out the front with one of these , put a 2L axle in the bottom also, and use one of these to get over to the steering knuckle. Stick a 3L sliding pin through that. Now, it will be less likely to pop out because you're relying on the form locking from the 3L connector rather than only the friction locking of the sliding pin. Edited August 24, 2020 by amorti Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CF 28 Posted August 24, 2020 1 hour ago, amorti said: Put a 2L axle in the cross hole on the steering rack, go down out the front with one of these , put a 2L axle in the bottom also, and use one of these to get over to the steering knuckle. Stick a 3L sliding pin through that. Now, it will be less likely to pop out because you're relying on the form locking from the 3L connector rather than only the friction locking of the sliding pin. Oh I understand now. We're talking about two different connections. The grey pin isn't the problem, it's the red 2L axle can pull out of the knuckle if it takes a good hit. Problem is that the 1x3x1/2 lift arm has a round hole in the center, not an axle hole. So the 2L is only seated by 1/2L into the perpendicular connector. Again, this is a very minor problem but it is the weak spot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
amorti Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) Change the wheel axles from 5.5L to 4L with stop. That allows you to change the 2L axles in the tie rods for 4L with stop. Should do it? Edit: oops, forgot it's 4wd. Edit again: But a similar idea should work if you make the lower 4L with stop go in from the other end, and connect the tie rod 1L lower using a 1L liftarm as a spacer. Edit again: Or it might be in harm's way if you go lower, so maybe go higher by flipping the upper perpendicular connector (ball joint) the other way up. That also allows you to flip the other one, slightly improving ground clearance at that point. At that point one of these might be ideal: https://www.brickowl.com/catalog/lego-axle-1-5-with-perpendicular-axle-connector-6553 Edited August 24, 2020 by amorti Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CF 28 Posted August 25, 2020 1 hour ago, amorti said: At that point one of these might be ideal... Eureka! That's it. This forum is great. Thanks for your help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
