Detroit-Funk

Powering 2 Horizon Express Trains

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58 minutes ago, Gimmick said:

... since they have no tooltip :)

*sigh*

Yes. And nobody knows what's that difficult with it.

With the Boost-App some tiles have sometimes tooltips....and when they appear they are in the correct language. A miracle.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Gimmick said:

No problem.

It was just an example to show what could be done and what types of blocks exist and what they do, since they have no tooltip :)

i greatly appreciate it. it's awesome that the coding ability exists. i'm just thinking of little 6 year old hands and having apps open and controllers going seems daunting knowing i will most likely have 2-3 other trains going simultaneously. at some point we will want to get good at the code program.

  • would you agree that if I go PowerUp that running one on channel A and one on Channel B in opposite direction would be the best way? just get good at hitting the acceleration button at the same time? :) 
  • or others have mentioned running the train motor in the front of one engine and motor in the back of the second engine so they both stay on channel A?
  • I suppose last resort to keep things easy would go Power Functions with like 8 extension wires for the polarity. that could be a quick way to get us going as well. 
Edited by Detroit-Funk

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1 hour ago, Detroit-Funk said:

i greatly appreciate it. it's awesome that the coding ability exists. i'm just thinking of little 6 year old hands and having apps open and controllers going seems daunting knowing i will most likely have 2-3 other trains going simultaneously. at some point we will want to get good at the code program.

  • would you agree that if I go PowerUp that running one on channel A and one on Channel B in opposite direction would be the best way? just get good at hitting the acceleration button at the same time? :) 
  • or others have mentioned running the train motor in the front of one engine and motor in the back of the second engine so they both stay on channel A?
  • I suppose last resort to keep things easy would go Power Functions with like 8 extension wires for the polarity. that could be a quick way to get us going as well. 

If it's possible: just turn one motor around.

Second best option in my view: Go with @Lok24 's modified controller. You need just a few parts and it's a good looking simple solution. :)

 

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3 minutes ago, Gimmick said:

If it's possible: just turn one motor around.

Second best option in my view: Go with @Lok24 's modified controller. You need just a few parts and it's a good looking simple solution. :)

 

not sure. @ps1flyer mentioned he did this utilizing PF. But i'm not sure if "reversing" the motor in the train requires any further modifications. i assume that means the motor uses the front bogeys in one train and the back in the other. don't know if that causes any issues with traction or not. or if any other considerations are necessary. 

And yes @Lok24's modified controller looks like a great setup. i may have to bricklink some parts, haha. 

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2 hours ago, Detroit-Funk said:

not sure. @ps1flyer mentioned he did this utilizing PF. But i'm not sure if "reversing" the motor in the train requires any further modifications. i assume that means the motor uses the front bogeys in one train and the back in the other. don't know if that causes any issues with traction or not. or if any other considerations are necessary. 

And yes @Lok24's modified controller looks like a great setup. i may have to bricklink some parts, haha. 

With Power Functions, a PF switch can be used to reverse the polarity of a motor without having to rewire the motor.  You would connect the switch between the PF IR receiver and the PF train motor.

2motors.jpg

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6 minutes ago, dr_spock said:

With Power Functions, a PF switch can be used to reverse the polarity of a motor without having to rewire the motor.  You would connect the switch between the PF IR receiver and the PF train motor.

2motors.jpg

so can all of the wiring be contained in each engine segment? so basically what you have above x2 (with only one engine getting the polarity switch i assume)? why do i see folks running wires down all of the cars to the other engine? is it so they talk to each other? or is it for lights or some other purpose, maybe using a single battery box? i'm trying to reduce wiring and keep things simple.

Edited by Detroit-Funk

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The wire in the trains is to have only one battery box and one receiver on one end.
With PF you could not be sure that the signal always  reaches both seperate receivers.

The picture shows two motors in one engine. Taking one motor to the other end needs cables.
A simple solution: use just one motor ;-)

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Lok24 said:

The wire in the trains is to have only one battery box and one receiver on one end.
With PF you could not be sure that the signal always  reaches both seperate receivers.

The picture shows two motors in one engine. Taking one motor to the other end needs cables.
A simple solution: use just one motor ;-)

 

 

i see. so both motors in one engine, but using only one IR receiver so it should control both concurrently, correct?

And your second point about one motor, would that be enough to power this train? from what i hear it is rather heavy once combined. 

Edited by Detroit-Funk

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9 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said:

so one motor. is that enough to pull this heavy megablocks train?

I don't know, presumeable not, why would some people use two and cables through the train?
But it's simple. A fully cabled train is difficult to handle, if you want to take it from  the rails, so you have to open it and disconnect the cables to separate the parts.

Why don't you just use two Powered Up hubs, two motors and a handheld?

Edited by Lok24

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22 minutes ago, Lok24 said:

I don't know, presumeable not, why would some people use two and cables through the train?
But it's simple. A fully cabled train is difficult to handle, if you want to take it from  the rails, so you have to open it and disconnect the cables to separate the parts.

Why don't you just use two Powered Up hubs, two motors and a handheld?

i was leaning that way, but hitting two buttons at the same time for little hands might be troublesome. so i was just considering all options. 

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44 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said:

so can all of the wiring be contained in each engine segment? so basically what you have above x2 (with only one engine getting the polarity switch i assume)? why do i see folks running wires down all of the cars to the other engine? is it so they talk to each other? or is it for lights or some other purpose, maybe using a single battery box? i'm trying to reduce wiring and keep things simple.

The simple thing with one battery box is to put two motors in the front engine.  Otherwise, you'll have to run PF extension cables from one end of the train to the other end.  I could run one motor at home on flat level track and replacing the technic axles wheels on the second engine with metal axle wheels.  I had trouble at train shows where the tables and tracks aren't level.  I'd say try it with one motor on your layout.  If it works, great.  If doesn't, then go through the effort adding more motors.  If the interior isn't important, you can also lighten the cars by removing bits not needed.

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2 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said:

i was leaning that way, but hitting two buttons at the same time for little hands might be troublesome. so i was just considering all options. 

But I send you a picture how to solve this? in this thread and in the other one? What's wrong with that?

What about a shorter train (needs less power, which makes things much easier)?

I have only very short trains, because driving a long train in circles is not that exiting? And freight trains, not passenger trains. Just like the 60198, much fun for kids (with some extra rails, of course)

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I think I saw reports that the weight of the train can cause the magnets to not be able to pull some of the wagons behind it if there's only motors in the front, but I think your mileage may vary. My preferred solution is motors in the front and back just to make sure. :)

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3 minutes ago, Lok24 said:

But I send you a picture how to solve this? in this thread and in the other one? What's wrong with that?

nothing other than me sourcing similar parts. i don't have any technic pieces so have to figure what they are and order them. like what is that black knob thing for example? haha.

What about a shorter train (needs less power, which makes things much easier)? 

sure, but this is our only passenger train and we have two. i can source more track to run around the house.

I have only very short trains, because driving a long train in circles is not that exiting? And freight trains, not passenger trains. Just like the 60198, much fun for kids (with some extra rails, of course)

60198 is our other train right now. we'll add the crocodile shortly as well. 

 

Edited by Detroit-Funk

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3 minutes ago, Detroit-Funk said:

we'll add the crocodile shortly as well. 

Ok, then you have to use a smartphone in any case. Then you can use the same smartphone for your horizons as well.

That sounds good!

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5 minutes ago, Lok24 said:

Ok, then you have to use a smartphone in any case. Then you can use the same smartphone for your horizons as well.

That sounds good!

so maybe smartphone for 60198 & Crocodile and a physical handheld with your technic contraption on the HE

17 minutes ago, Mr Hobbles said:

I think I saw reports that the weight of the train can cause the magnets to not be able to pull some of the wagons behind it if there's only motors in the front, but I think your mileage may vary. My preferred solution is motors in the front and back just to make sure. :)

i think so too. i think it needs the two motors.

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I run the pictured set up above, 2 motors in the lead powercar, I have to have a plate on the first coupler otherwise it would pull away. I also have wires running back to the rear for the marker lights and interior lighting. It's a pain to move the train off the tracks but it looks cool and has plenty of power with that arrangement.

SD

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12 hours ago, Detroit-Funk said:

i can source more track to run around the house.

Then bluetooth is not recommended, if the train gets to far it will stop.

Not with PF: the trains don't stop when loosing connection.

But if you have that all at home, why don't you try hanging some Horizon stuff  to the 60198 engine and see if it works and with how many cars?
Would be interesting to know.

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