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42115 Lamborghini Sian MODs and Improvements

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I finally bought an built this recently - went straight to @jb70's pimped version, as always now. My impressions - it is really big, nice lines, best use of flex axles I have experienced (by this I mean they flow well with panels, are well-secured, and end in the right place). 

I do find it odd that in a set that includes black as well as red 2- and 4-axles (so recognising that the red stands out visually in certain places, and that the builder can manage the difference) that there remain places where the red versions peep out in the finished car. Why not provide more black ones for e.g. the hinge of the bonnet/hood? I am not an anti-blue pin obsessive, but I find this - well inconsistent. And use the grey axle-pin connectors rather than red as well. 

So it looks lovely, and the functions all work well - doors, spoiler, gears & engines. It is definitely the best of the Lego 1:8 supercars. And yet it is all slightly ... unsatisfying. Maybe I have too much lego, or I just need to make some function-filled MOC. 

Anyhow, I am in awe of the technical improvements to the gear box, HOG, etc. There is one outrageously lazily-made bit that I want to share my improvement of.... drumroll...

the luggage!

The stock version has gaps at the sides and bottom - I can't imagine how the bottom was deemed ok. 

Here is my pimping contribution, all 100% legal, I would suggest:

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My painted rims again :purrr:

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Bought these rims for the 42056 Porsche, but also tried them on the Sian. They look alright, but the offset is too much with the Sian.

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On 2/2/2021 at 5:55 PM, jb70 said:

I finally found an easy solution to pimp up the spoiler lift mechanism. By the use of a worm gear we get a self-locking HOG spoiler control, that will keep locked in position either low or high or in every position in between. With this mechanism we can replace all friction pins in the mechanism with frictionless ones to get an easy and smooth operation.

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Thanks for the mechanism, I did it on mine and it works much better, and stary up if I want it to.

That's how I attached it (original mechanism left), and managed to modify it without having to remove many parts from a complete build.

spoiler mech.JPG

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You model seems very nice, good job !

But is it normal that the wheels turn to the opposite side of the steering wheel? (1:12 in the video) 🤔

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17 hours ago, Celeri said:

You model seems very nice, good job !

But is it normal that the wheels turn to the opposite side of the steering wheel? (1:12 in the video) 🤔

Hi, bro.

Thank u,I have fixed it after making this video 

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13 hours ago, Supercar Enthusiast said:

guys i might be modding this car soon does anybody have a virtual file (any format that stud.io can open) of an unmodified sian? thanks!

Try this one: https://omr.ldraw.org/files/1773

Edited by jb70

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Hi all
I'm working on this awesome MOC on my Sian and encountered two major problem right now
1. There is an issue with the gearbox on speed no 1,3 and 5 when I have the V12 engine installed; the car is very hard to move on that position;  however if I remove the v12 engine (disconnect the main shaft from the v12 to the middle axle), the whole gearbox works perfectly fine.
2. I just finished chapter 2 of the instruction and I find the paddle shifting mechanism doesn't  work. Is this normal and will it work later after I completed the whole car?
 

I've dismantled the car twice and rebuild it slowly to the same exact point and still encounter the same issue above 

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On 1/31/2023 at 11:38 AM, dtmodelworks said:

Hi all
I'm working on this awesome MOC on my Sian and encountered two major problem right now
1. There is an issue with the gearbox on speed no 1,3 and 5 when I have the V12 engine installed; the car is very hard to move on that position;  however if I remove the v12 engine (disconnect the main shaft from the v12 to the middle axle), the whole gearbox works perfectly fine.

Hi.

I have exactly the same situation. First gear is almost unusable. Did you find any solution for this? I am sure I have everything right and without friction.
I noticed one more interesting thing. If I lift the car a little bit (all wheels are still on the ground) than the gearbox works perfectly. If the car lays all the wight on ground it is almost impossible to move it on the first gear.

 

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Hey i figured out mine. There is no issue at all, the problem is due to the weight of the whole car causing bending on the center of gravity. Once more support parts are installed the chassis is much more rigid 

 

Let me know how yours going after you try it further 

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Hey all,
Spent the weekend modifying my Sian.  Managed to convert it to a roadster with minimal/no additional parts (can't remember if I raided the draws for a few blue connectors).
It has rear `tubes` behind the seats (with the door controls still accessible) and a lower profile, still removable, engine cover!
Only issue is the additional struts to hold the windscreen - blue pins are visible - need to either workout a different connection, or cover with black, but was trying to do this without additional parts!

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Edited by pocoyo

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I'm currently rebuilding a friend's busted up Sian, and have reached the beginnings of the paddle-shifting mechanism at Step 169. I know in my own model this mechanism now tends to not fully engage the 90deg switching. Would it help to use black friction pins here in place of the frictionless grey pins? (I have a vague memory of seeing this suggestion somewhere before but couldn't find anything in this thread on it.) Or does anyone have any other easily implemented suggestions for improving the mechanism?

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I've finished rebuilding both my friend's and my own Sian models, and in both models I have removed the rubber-band mechanism added in building Steps 273-275, instead using the grey 1x3 cross-block (#32184) to lock the vertical axle (i.e. the assembly added in Step 246) in place. There is still enough give in the assembly for it to work, and I'm finding that this modification provides more positive pressure to the reverse side of the switching mechanism, resulting in smoother and more reliable gear changes. I'd be curious to know if others have tried something similar.

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4 hours ago, BrickMonkeyMOCs said:

using the grey 1x3 cross-block (#32184) to lock the vertical axle (i.e. the assembly added in Step 246) in place. There is still enough give in the assembly for it to work

Screen_Shot_2019-01-17_at_4.22.43_PM.jpg

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44 minutes ago, astyanax said:

Wait. That's illegal.

You'll never take me alive. Seriously though, I don't think it's putting significant stress on the parts. Certainly not as much as the front suspension already puts on the white 4L bars used as travel-limiters.

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I cannot tell whether this is illegal or not, but to me, a working solution to replace a rubber band (perishable by design) is always — at least — worthy of interest.

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8 hours ago, Celeri said:

I cannot tell whether this is illegal or not, but to me, a working solution to replace a rubber band (perishable by design) is always — at least — worthy of interest.

Depends on the rubber band types. The colorful, silicone ones with rounded edges hold up really well, while the black, rectangular ones seem to be from a different, more brittle material.

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