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legonerd54321

[MOC] Frisco #1501 (4-8-2 Mountain Type)

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On 6/3/2020 at 11:37 PM, steele said:

I'd be interested in seeing more of the tender trucks----so many MOCs seem to just use the pre-made bogies under the tender, even when it's quite inaccurate.  (I'm trying to do trucks for a Daylight----I'm surprised I've never seen a three-axle Buckeye truck done by anyone AFAIK, when so many different things used them).  

I actually used the three-axle freight truck design from the L-gauge wiki. It was relatively the same size of the truck size I needed and the same style. 

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And here she is.... almost complete! Just waiting for some decals and a remoted6RMf9f.jpg

ZjNOVtL.jpg

 

And if you were wondering how the 1501 is doing after her cosmetic restoration.. She's looking quite beautiful.gi4MXiS.jpg

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19 minutes ago, Coal Fired Bricks said:

Looks amazing.  Can't wait to see it finished.  To be pick you need to realign the connection between the boiler and the cylinders.

Yeah I noticed that whenever uploading the photos, it sits in there usually without a problem

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On 7/12/2020 at 6:55 AM, SteamSewnEmpire said:

Oh, wow, you built it! How does it run?

Well, it rolls for right now :grin: I had to rebuild the driving truck and I had to order a longer axle, along with a PF wire extension. I'll upload a video of it running soon, though

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Congratulations. With the rework a really good locomotive. I like it and the details.

I have one suggestion for the conical expansion of the boilder. Instead of steps I have used hinge elements in my upcomming LMS Class 5 "Black Five":

LMS Class 5 Seitenansicht Kessel

 

Ok, in my case is the step only one plate heigth but maybe is also two plates possible (or need a longer boiler)

Thomas

 

 

 

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Decals from OKBrickWorks came in today, and WOW it really sells the entire look. She also runs and has sound, now!

 

0ma4ZaZ.jpg

NWLRTnF.jpg

VkbG53D.jpg

I'll be taking the locomotive to me tomorrow for the ribbon cutting and open house for the locomotive. I'll be taking pictures with both locomotives together as well as myself and the other volunteers together at the locomotive after 3 long months of cosmetically restoring it.

 

 

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Looks really good and i like the decals and details. I can´t wait to see this locomotive in a video.

One thing: The big hole under the cap in the side view. Looks like too much free space.

Thomas

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1 hour ago, zephyr1934 said:

Great work! Can't wait to see photos of the model next to the prototype

Speaking of which...

tkp8u4F.jpg

olAWzoJ.jpg

uQmFkmL.jpg

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GlJTHhF.jpg

Some pieces fell off of during transport from my house to the event, I was in a bit of a rush. 

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I decided to tackle my first rebuild and get it knocked off before I move onto other projects. This rebuild was mainly for functioning purposes, such as having it handle r56 corners. 

This rebuild also includes

-rollerbearings in the front and trailing axles

-detail beneath the cab, such as tubing

-improvement of the conical expansion

-new piston design

-moving speaker into the locomotive

-adding a functional headlight and glowing firebox light

 

I still need to add some valve gear to either side, but overall, it looks good. I'm planning on doing the tender later, as I need to do research on powered truck designs and battery options. I've been thinking about using a 9V battery with adapter, but I have no idea how much a 9V battery can power.

lVFt29W.jpg

urO4K0R.jpg

QVJaXpl.jpg

Of course, as tradition, something is out of place and missing in my photos. The coupler is missing, and the bell is out of place. :grin:

 

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For what its worth, I've looked at non-LEGO power options for when a LEGO battery box won't fit, and I decided on 2S Lipo batteries.

9 volt batteries (and better yet, rechargeable ones) work fine too, but they are surprisingly big, especially if you put them in a battery holder with a switch.  I do Not have any data on how long a 9V battery would last but I'm sure its not as long as a LEGO battery box with its 6 1.5 volt batteries.

Note on Lipos - if you go this route, DO take the time to educate yourself on them and use a Balanced Charger.  A 2S Lipo battery outputs 7.4 Volts, but that is what LEGO used in their rechargeable battery box and 7.4 Volts vs 9 Volts isn't a problem.  Lipos are safe as long as you take care with them.  They come in several sizes so fitting them in is not that hard.  I have not used Lipos that long yet, but I timed my first one.  I had a small 300 mAh Lipo run an engine pulling a car as fast as it would go without flying off the oval and it ran for 20 minutes and used 10% of the battery - that's just anecdotal, but that's what I found.  Something to consider.  You'll find advice on all sides of Lipos but if you read enough you should be able to get a good feel as to whether they will work for you or not.

Finally, if I may ask, what did you use for Sound and Speaker?  (Enclosed speaker vs open, etc.)  That's also on my list to try!  :classic:

 

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4 minutes ago, JWBDolphins said:

For what its worth, I've looked at non-LEGO power options for when a LEGO battery box won't fit, and I decided on 2S Lipo batteries.

9 volt batteries (and better yet, rechargeable ones) work fine too, but they are surprisingly big, especially if you put them in a battery holder with a switch.  I do Not have any data on how long a 9V battery would last but I'm sure its not as long as a LEGO battery box with its 6 1.5 volt batteries.

Note on Lipos - if you go this route, DO take the time to educate yourself on them and use a Balanced Charger.  A 2S Lipo battery outputs 7.4 Volts, but that is what LEGO used in their rechargeable battery box and 7.4 Volts vs 9 Volts isn't a problem.  Lipos are safe as long as you take care with them.  They come in several sizes so fitting them in is not that hard.  I have not used Lipos that long yet, but I timed my first one.  I had a small 300 mAh Lipo run an engine pulling a car as fast as it would go without flying off the oval and it ran for 20 minutes and used 10% of the battery - that's just anecdotal, but that's what I found.  Something to consider.  You'll find advice on all sides of Lipos but if you read enough you should be able to get a good feel as to whether they will work for you or not.

Finally, if I may ask, what did you use for Sound and Speaker?  (Enclosed speaker vs open, etc.)  That's also on my list to try!  :classic:

 

Thanks for the info! I'll definitively look into Lipos too, I'll take anything that's smaller than a regular battery box.

As for the sound and speaker, I used Fx Brick's XL speaker. I first tried using an open speaker method facing down from the tender. It wasn't ideal, but it was for the space I had. The sound came out just fine, but was a bit muffled since it did come out from the bottom vs the top. My second round of using it I enclosed it within the boiler of the locomotive. The sound came out a lot better from the locomotive, and I didn't have to worry about it fitting with the rest of the electronics. I'll update this a with a video showing the sound from it being enclosed soon.

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While I never noticed any lack of details before your most recent additions, now that you mention it that detailing really helps the overall look.

19 hours ago, legonerd54321 said:

Of course, as tradition, something is out of place and missing in my photos. The coupler is missing, and the bell is out of place. 

I know, its like you need a printed checklist of all the little things that could be out of place if you look at the model funny. Still though, glad it happened otherwise I would never have noticed your clever solution for a dummy coupler that I'll probably borrow.

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