[MOC] Diesel Switcher

[Legownz]

One of the biggest issues I find with building in 6 wide is hiding PF/PUP elements, especially when I want to have walkways down the side of the locomotive. A few years back, I started on a locomotive design to put the battery pack partially below the base, between the two sets of wheels. I never finished this design, so when I wanted to create a switcher a few days back, I thought of this old design (as I didn't want the loco to end up being huge to conceal the battery box and end up looking bloated).

This is what I came up with. The engine is essentially symmetrical front to back, so it is meant for going in and out of sidings all day in a yard. The cab comes off in one assembly below the 1x1 cheese slopes. Inside, there is a seat that is directly on top of the PUP box, so easy access for power/linking. Unlike some of my other models, I did not make space for a PF receiver so it can only be powered by PUP or 9V. I felt this was ok though, as I really wanted the electrical components to not dictate the shape of the engine too much. I have never tried putting the battery box in this location and since it is not above the powered wheels, traction may be a problem? There should be enough open space to put a ballast brick in above the wheels, should there be any issues.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with this MOC. I feel the cab looks off in the side view, but other than that, I think it turned out nicely. As usual, there is a download for the Studio file. From now on though, I will just be putting all of my files into one folder so any links on my posts will grant you access to all my models. Thanks for reading! 

File Download: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Legownz/legownzs-train-mocs

[Pdaitabird]

I love the color scheme and detailing. Great job!

[ColletArrow]

Nice work with such clean colours and lines, and a very low profile to the machine! The handrails and textured walkways look awesome.

I agree the cab looks a little unusual from the side; I'd say it needs to be a couple of studs longer so it matches the underbelly and the roof. That would also give a little more space inside, but you wouldn't be able to use those window pieces.

I've also just noticed it's an odd number of studs long, and there's some interesting techniques where the cab meets the bonnets. You've not made things easy for yourself, but overall it's a tidy little engine!

[zephyr1934]

13 hours ago, Legownz said:

One of the biggest issues I find with building in 6 wide is hiding PF/PUP elements, especially when I want to have walkways down the side of the locomotive.

That is probably the biggest issue of PF/PUP.

Anyway, excellent solution. From a logistical perspective, do you have enough room to also get the PUP wires in/out with the top of the battery box? You know, if you flipped the color scheme around (white on the bottom) you might be able to hide the lowered the PUP in a 4 wide hood.

It would be interesting to see what it looks like if you tried a varient where you added one more brick of height to the two hoods.

[Coal Fired Bricks]

Great model. Lots of detail to be packed into 6-wide

[ivanlan9]

That engine looks very Japanese.  Add a middle truck and extend the hoods, you'd have a DD51:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JNR_Class_DD51

Metta,

Ivan

[Legownz]

9 hours ago, ColletArrow said:

Nice work with such clean colours and lines, and a very low profile to the machine! The handrails and textured walkways look awesome.

I agree the cab looks a little unusual from the side; I'd say it needs to be a couple of studs longer so it matches the underbelly and the roof. That would also give a little more space inside, but you wouldn't be able to use those window pieces.

I've also just noticed it's an odd number of studs long, and there's some interesting techniques where the cab meets the bonnets. You've not made things easy for yourself, but overall it's a tidy little engine!

Thank you! I agree the cab should be longer, but I love those window pieces a lot. I might change it down the line, though. For some reason while I was designing, I thought it had to be an odd number of studs long. After revisiting it, I found that was not the case at all and was able to shorten it by one stud. I am much happier with the result and I do not miss those weird little gaps.

7 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

That is probably the biggest issue of PF/PUP.

Anyway, excellent solution. From a logistical perspective, do you have enough room to also get the PUP wires in/out with the top of the battery box? You know, if you flipped the color scheme around (white on the bottom) you might be able to hide the lowered the PUP in a 4 wide hood.

It would be interesting to see what it looks like if you tried a varient where you added one more brick of height to the two hoods.

I see what you're saying about flipping the colors to hide the battery box, but I don't totally follow you with the wires. PF had the wires connect to the top of the box, but PUP connects to the end, doesn't it? I have yet to get my hands on PUP components, so I could be easily mistaken/confused. There is space inside to connect the wires to the box and for excess to be (tightly) tucked away along with a hole in the chassis for the wire to reach the motor. There is also access to the top of the box with the cab off. I hope these photos help?

1 hour ago, ivanlan9 said:

That engine looks very Japanese.  Add a middle truck and extend the hoods, you'd have a DD51:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JNR_Class_DD51

Metta,

Ivan

Oh wow! Those are similar! While designing my own model, I felt like I had subconsciously based it off of something I've seen before in real life, but the closest I could find was a GE 44 ton switcher or a DB Class V 90. Very cool though!

[AlecDGeneric]

That's actually too tight, the plugs come out to the width of a 1 stud brick. So to acommodate the cables you need to put at least one of those L shapes in front (what Studio calls a Panel), though not directly in front as the plugs are too wide to fit inside of it.

[zephyr1934]

15 hours ago, Legownz said:

I see what you're saying about flipping the colors to hide the battery box, but I don't totally follow you with the wires. PF had the wires connect to the top of the box, but PUP connects to the end, doesn't it? I have yet to get my hands on PUP components, so I could be easily mistaken/confused. There is space inside to connect the wires to the box and for excess to be (tightly) tucked away along with a hole in the chassis for the wire to reach the motor. There is also access to the top of the box with the cab off. I hope these photos help?

The wire comes out of the end of the block, either the left 2 or right 2 studs on the top "front" (for lack of a better word for one of the 4 stud long sides). You need at least 1 stud clearance beyond the end so that you can pull the top of the battery box since the wire(s) will be attached. Probably 2 studs is better on the wire end and at least for the top of the box you would want at least one stud on the opposite end for clearance. Probably best to leave the top unscrewed and use the bottom of the box structurally. You will either need room to also get your fingers in there to pull the top of the box out make sure the sides are slack enough that you can flip it over to dump out the top of the box.

[Legownz]

8 hours ago, AlecDGeneric said:

That's actually too tight, the plugs come out to the width of a 1 stud brick. So to acommodate the cables you need to put at least one of those L shapes in front (what Studio calls a Panel), though not directly in front as the plugs are too wide to fit inside of it.

 

3 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

The wire comes out of the end of the block, either the left 2 or right 2 studs on the top "front" (for lack of a better word for one of the 4 stud long sides). You need at least 1 stud clearance beyond the end so that you can pull the top of the battery box since the wire(s) will be attached. Probably 2 studs is better on the wire end and at least for the top of the box you would want at least one stud on the opposite end for clearance. Probably best to leave the top unscrewed and use the bottom of the box structurally. You will either need room to also get your fingers in there to pull the top of the box out make sure the sides are slack enough that you can flip it over to dump out the top of the box.

Ah. I think I get it now. Thank you both for explaining it to me/giving the heads up.