FREE! 3d Printed Parts and FREE! Wide Radius Curves+Wheels

[Coal Fired Bricks]

I know this hobby has been greatly influenced by 3d printed parts, from side rods to track even our wheels have been 3d printed.  I have been looking around for a solution to 3d printed stuff and I have seen the $300-$500 SLA printers that retrieve fantastic detail, though I found out that now most local libraries have 3d printers, some being top of the line, printing parts for little to no cost to us.  

Also, I have learned THINGAVERCE has some great lego compatible options for preexisting files.  Encluding r56, 72, 88, 104, and even 120 track even some of the in-between.  Also cross tracks, switches, etc. are also available for free. So I suggest call some library and ask if you can use their 3d printer.  If there is a course to use it, then take it because nothing can beat high-quality 3d prints for free. 

I was just about to start an NYC Niagra then the Corona happened so I don't have all of my wheels from my library printer.  I am hoping libraries will open back up soon. 

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799569- r120 track. The designer also makes 9v r120 and PF/PU r104 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3936354- Some smaller curves

I have not printed any of the above files so I am not sure if the geometry works out. 

 

Yes I know trixbrix and bricktracks you are probably mad.  But there are downsides, most libraries only let you print while they are open meaning you can only print a few pieces at a time with high quality(which may take a looooong time) or you will have to go for volume with low quality.  Also some designs are not tested or lower quality and it is not fun when a librarian gives you the stick eye because you have been printing 1/8 r120 circle every day for the past week(has not happened....yet).  And lastly, TLG has taken down many designs for some reason.  

 

Overall if you see no reason to spend on $150 high radius curves just to try them or if your wife hates you for buying $1000 of r120 curves from  Bricktracks try this see what happens maybe you want to have higher quality. Or if you are like me and don't want to spend big bucks on injection molded or highly developed tracks and just want something cheap and easy for your display, even if it's not perfect, try this. 

Still, I would rather get injection-molded tracks of BT and the vast selection of Trix, but this is still a pretty sweet deal. 

 

I may post some Xl and XXL drivers and r88, 104, and 120 me models like track on Thingiverse. 

Feel free to comment or share your experiences. 

 

-Coal Fired

 

 

Edited April 23, 2020 by Coal Fired Bricks

[Henry 991]

Hi,

I have been 3D printing parts with my SLA printer for a while.

E.g. wheels and connecting rods. You see images on my Flickr account below.

However, I do not intend to reduce the usage of Bricktracks and BrickTrainDepot and other manufacturers for the following reasons:

(1) It takes a lot of effort to get the manufacturing tolerances exactly right so that the parts clutch together. Eg with SLA, it’s down to the color of the resin which offset value you need to use

(2) SLA printers use resin which is brittle and not as strong as ABS plastic that the commercial printing services have

(3) Designing a part is a lot of work to get exactly right from design and functional aspects. I do respect and value the quality of the design work that’s been put into the available products from BT and BTD etc. and I want to support the businesses as they keep this hobby developing.

 

 

Edited April 24, 2020 by Henry 991

[Thai bricks]

Thanks for the links. I have saved a couple of the files, just in case. At this point I have no plans to buy a 3D printer, but there are community printing services around and I might give them a try. Here in Thailand I don't believe libraries have printers. At the same time, shipping from any of the existing services is prohibitive.

[dr_spock]

I used to use the library's 3D printer. I found it more convenient to have my own when I started designing and testing my own parts.  I built a cheapy FDM kit printer.  It is good enough to print functional parts like PU adapters and without some of the chemical handling requirements of SLA.

3D printing is slow. It may not be the correct process to use depending on the situation and application.

 

 

[TrainDragon]

@Henry 991, wow, those are beautiful wheels.  I never would have guessed they were 3d printed!

[Coal Fired Bricks]

Quote

 

Hi,

I have been 3D printing parts with my SLA printer for a while.

E.g. wheels and connecting rods. You see images on my Flickr account below.

However, I do not intend to reduce the usage of Bricktracks and BrickTrainDepot and other manufacturers for the following reasons:

(1) It takes a lot of effort to get the manufacturing tolerances exactly right so that the parts clutch together. Eg with SLA, it’s down to the color of the resin which offset value you need to use

(2) SLA printers use resin which is brittle and not as strong as ABS plastic that the commercial printing services have

(3) Designing a part is a lot of work to get exactly right from design and functional aspects. I do respect and value the quality of the design work that’s been put into the available products from BT and BTD etc. and I want to support the businesses as they keep this hobby developing.

 

 

 

I agree with @Henry 991, the tolerances needed for track and wheels is important, even when printing my NYC Niagara XXL(ish not tested for size) there was a lot of sanding needed to the pin and axel hole.  I ended up drilling through the pinhole to get the right size which is a delicate operation and I drilled halfway through the axel whole for less friction.  I do believe SLA printing might be our future though the brittle parts maybe SLA's downfall for drivers and side rods, other things my work such as handrails, lights/lamps, maybe track( no moving parts), and TLG parts that are getting super expensive on BL.  For your color concerns maybe you could airbrush your parts because of the huge range of colors, but I haven't tried that yet, I have only used spray paint which for black wheels works great with a dull coat.  

 

Still, library/public FDM might be a good option for people just getting into the hobby looking at price tags for custom wheelsets from Shupp ($44 for 6 wheels is not cheap for 3d printed stuff) and $120 for BT/BTD/TRIX R120 may scare some people away.  If we could get more people into the hobby because they can get low-quality tracks/wheels/etc for free I think that is good and will grow our community.  And eventually, these people might end up buying an R104 switch or buy a higher quality product because they want something better to suit their models of high quality/standards and may lead to more willing customers for BBB/Trix/BT/Shupp/etc.  I think free low-quality prints are better than nothing.  And I think BBB/Trix/BT/Shupp/etc. are great, highly developed products that have near-perfect tolerances are fantastic and I would buy them if I wasn't a college kid with a student loan. 

I believe I we are to print tract the connections should be like ME models' loose so they can be glued and the track should be able to print separately so there is little need for supports (only for FDM not for SLA).   Or the models should be completely broken up, for example, a pin should be broken in half do there is no overhang. 

Overall if you want to get into this hobby then go free to see if you like it, but when you want more products that are tested and fit with TLG part go 3rd party.   Do any of you agree with this or am I crazy.

 

Coal Fired

P.S. I don't want to buy an SLA only because of the small build volume. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 24, 2020 by Coal Fired Bricks

[Henry 991]

3 hours ago, Coal Fired Bricks said:

For your color concerns maybe you could airbrush your parts because of the huge range of colors, but I haven't tried that yet, I have only used spray paint which for black wheels works great with a dull coat.  

Indeed, I have bought Tamiya spray paints and I will use them to achieve DBG and Black surface coats.

Regarding the color of the resin, the issue is mainly that e.g. green and black behave quite differently when printing. I have figured out that with Anycubic black, you can achieve very tight fit between parts by offsetting with 0.15 mm.  With green, that figure must be at around 0.25-0.3 mm. The vertical tolerances are more complex.

You just need to experiment to get everything right. At the moment, most of my parts come out right from the machine without any or with very little post-processing.

I am indeed trying printing connecting rods with The SLA. I’m experimenting with the UP Challenger’s 1:48 scale versions. They have integrated ball bearings. The ball bearings should distribute the load quite evenly and the rods are reasonably stiff anyways. I don’t see why this wouldn’t work. I have steel axles and ball bearings everywhere so the setup is very tight. It shouldn't vibrate at all, which reduces the stress on the rods.

 

[coaster]

On 4/23/2020 at 11:15 AM, Coal Fired Bricks said:

Yes I know trixbrix and bricktracks you are probably mad.

Ha, I'm not mad.  A lot of people do this anyway, especially if they already have a printer at home.  When home printers start printing injection molded quality, then I'll start to worry.  Right now though, even quarter-million dollar machines can't match it (not that I've tried...). 

 

On 4/23/2020 at 11:15 AM, Coal Fired Bricks said:

...or if your wife hates you for buying $1000 of r120 curves from Bricktracks...

But MY wife would love you for it.  I'd even cut you a deal, give you 10 full circles for that. 

Seriously, try telling your wife you want to spend $20k to make some LEGO train tracks.  She still thinks we're all nuts.

[legotownlinz]

10 hours ago, coaster said:

Ha, I'm not mad.  A lot of people do this anyway, especially if they already have a printer at home.  When home printers start printing injection molded quality, then I'll start to worry.  Right now though, even quarter-million dollar machines can't match it (not that I've tried...). 

Even if I buy a printer one day I would still buy BrickTracks and Trixbrix products. I have absolutely no interest in reinventing the wheel.

[Henry 991]

2 hours ago, legotownlinz said:

Even if I buy a printer one day I would still buy BrickTracks and Trixbrix products. I have absolutely no interest in reinventing the wheel.

Same here. Even though I am fully-proficient in CAD and have a printer, I do not want to make track pieces or other elements where a small-scale manufacturer has a viable product available.

It’s not just worth it if you care about where you use your time and about the quality of the product.

[Coal Fired Bricks]

 

On 4/24/2020 at 9:07 PM, coaster said:

When home printers start printing injection molded quality, then I'll start to worry. 

What about SLA?

On 4/24/2020 at 9:07 PM, coaster said:

I'd even cut you a deal, give you 10 full circles for that.

I do it for 1500 if you throw in a few switches and ballast it all. 

[coaster]

13 hours ago, Coal Fired Bricks said:

 

What about SLA?

I do it for 1500 if you throw in a few switches and ballast it all. 

SLA prints are good, but still only print in about .002" resolution, when sounds small, but is barely accurate to make functional studs.  They also degrade over time; they aren't meant to be permanent.  I made some of the track prototypes on an SLA, and it's badly warped, yellowed, and cracked.  Polyjet printing is better, but you need some serious cash to own one of those.  Even so, it requires a longer print time, several hours of post-process to dissolve the support material, and then some additional sanding to get it to look molded.  Also, material alone would cost about $12 per track.

I'd throw in the switches for sure, but ballasting all of that would cost 4 times that amount. 

[patox]

On 4/23/2020 at 9:15 AM, Coal Fired Bricks said:

I know this hobby has been greatly influenced by 3d printed parts . .. 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3936354- Some smaller curves

I have not printed any of the above files so I am not sure if the geometry works out.

 

This week I started a new project with an underground track on a Nilo table.

Since the table is small, I wanted the tightest turns possible. I looked into Trixbrix, but the shipping doubled the cost of the R24 curve set. Also the Trixbrix pieces are not injection-molded, they are FDM printed. So I thought I'd try to print my own. I fired up my Prusa and printed out the tracks linked above.  For the R24 22.5 degree curve sections, they took 90 minutes each to print. I've printed up 10 so far and need 6 more. They fit together really well. And with the gray filament from eSun, the color is fairly close to the Lego pieces.

It's actually quite shocking how well they all work together.

[legotownlinz]

On 10/16/2020 at 10:08 PM, patox said:

And with the gray filament from eSun, the color is fairly close to the Lego pieces.

Are there manufacturers offering filament colors that exactly match Lego's colors? 

[dr_spock]

14 hours ago, legotownlinz said:

Are there manufacturers offering filament colors that exactly match Lego's colors? 

4DBrix.com listed the following as pretty close to LBG:

colorFabb Ral 7031
justpla Gray ABS
Paramount-3D Battheship Gray

 

[Electricsteam]

I just bought a bunch of TrixBrix stuff last week and it just got here today.  I am really impressed with the quality!  Got a bunch of pieces that just dont exist in lego and I dont need to take any power tools with existing bricks to make what I wanted.  Continous curve switch, some crossings, some track adapters.  I'm really excited for the dual gauge rails I bought!

I did get one half length of injected moulded track which surprised me.  

 

Not all of use have 3d printers... if someone is going to put in the work for new designs and quality control I'd rather just pay them instead of doing it myself.

[vaxx]

Well, I bought a 3d filament printer just to print track. I have had mixed results but after a lot of experimentation I seem to have it down to a reasonable quality.

If time is important and you can't let a printer just tick away in the background for 8 hours printing out a switch or crossing, then printing isn't for you.

I have a large assortment of track now, many different radii and lengths of curves and straights, lot's of different crossings and a good double switch file that has modular parts and can be changed a few ways