Paperinik77pk Posted April 11, 2020 (edited) Hi all, I've started to use again the 3D printer after a big time it was unused (I had to re-align it and still has some work to do). Thinking about a model of @Evans (a large steamer in 12v style with old 12v medium size wheels - those of 7750 , but in black), I tried to recreate the original 12v medium wheels design and I also tried to go further, enlarging them to 37mm size. The new wheels feature 10 spokes as the original old wheels, angled at 36° each. I used Tinkercad since it is easy and more than sufficient for my projects. And this is the result ,printed both in black and red (red filament is new - I have to understand why there is black filament residual - I'm still a total noob on 3D printing ). I printed on a medium quality setting for the red ones. The black wheels were printed on draft setting. The filament I used is PLA - a medium cost one but it works fine. The red color is somewhat between the red one used for new Large wheels and the old red of the 80s. I think there are darker and lighter red filaments, but it's really difficult to tell if the printed result will be of the correct color (the raw filament color is quite the same as the original Lego wheels, but once printed...they are a bit brighter). I used a pair of normal red wheels (the ones used on wagons - like in 7720) I removed the original wheels, kept the "red axle" and used it with my 3d printed wheel. Then I locked again in place the red pin on the black wheel holder brick - and that's all. I'll post here all my experiments - there's a lot to improve! If you have any ideas or suggestions - feel free to comment! Ciao! Davide Edited April 11, 2020 by Paperinik77pk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evans Posted April 11, 2020 Hello Davide! These first tests are promising! It will allow so much more possibilities in recreations of accurate models in pure 80's style. Non-German steamers, Swiss locomotives, I already see quite a lot of uses! I hope to see more soon! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pdaitabird Posted April 11, 2020 Your wheels look excellent! I have noticed when printing cylindrical parts at my job, there is often a "seam" where the print head starts and ends each layer. Did you experience this problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_spock Posted April 12, 2020 Nice. I printed in PLA some large train wheels last year. I ran them at all our events. They seem hold up fine so far. I don't think they'll see any events this year. I am going try ABS next. Have you done any ABS prints? 3 hours ago, Pdaitabird said: Your wheels look excellent! I have noticed when printing cylindrical parts at my job, there is often a "seam" where the print head starts and ends each layer. Did you experience this problem? Some slicers have a setting that allows randomly staggering of the start point of each layer so it doesn't form that seam. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zephyr1934 Posted April 12, 2020 What a brilliant solution... 16 hours ago, Paperinik77pk said: I used a pair of normal red wheels (the ones used on wagons - like in 7720) I removed the original wheels, kept the "red axle" and used it with my 3d printed wheel. Then I locked again in place the red pin on the black wheel holder brick <flinch> modifying a 30+ yr old part Here's a thought for you, if you are going custom wheels, why not go all the way to full custom wheel sets? You could use a pair of 1x2 technic bricks, and the same axles and roller bearings that folks are using for the low friction axles today. Thereby simultaneously eliminating the need for (and sparing the life of, grin) relatively rare parts and overcoming the biggest limitation of those parts- high friction. Of course you would then need to incorporate a fake axle head in your design. In fact roller bearing steam driving wheels would be of benefit to PF/PUP builds too, but that's a different thread. Returning to topic, your wheels look great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paperinik77pk Posted April 12, 2020 18 hours ago, Evans said: Hello Davide! These first tests are promising! It will allow so much more possibilities in recreations of accurate models in pure 80's style. Non-German steamers, Swiss locomotives, I already see quite a lot of uses! I hope to see more soon! Hi there Evans - yes -they were thought for this kind of use - Now let's see if they can be improved in some ways!!! 17 hours ago, Pdaitabird said: Your wheels look excellent! I have noticed when printing cylindrical parts at my job, there is often a "seam" where the print head starts and ends each layer. Did you experience this problem? I had the same problem - but I'm using a specific setting of my old version of Cura slicer which slowly designs the outer circle. This improved a lot the printing - I try to retrieve you the setting from Cura (it has been set for awhile - I've to find it again ). 14 hours ago, dr_spock said: Nice. I printed in PLA some large train wheels last year. I ran them at all our events. They seem hold up fine so far. I don't think they'll see any events this year. I am going try ABS next. Have you done any ABS prints? Some slicers have a setting that allows randomly staggering of the start point of each layer so it doesn't form that seam. I'd like to try ABS mainly for the smoothing thing that can be done with acetone fumes. Never tried it (I still have the black PLA sold with the printer - I've used it rarely) but it is on my ToDo list! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evans Posted April 12, 2020 2 hours ago, zephyr1934 said: modifying a 30+ yr old part In fact, it's not even a modification, because 12V wheels holders and wheels can be disassembled. I've found one sort that can very easily be disassembled, and another one which I haven't been able to disassemble yet. I've not found a way to differenciate them externally neither. It's useful to dismantle them in order to clean the «nail» or axle, to remove dust, hairs and friction dust that makes those wheels even more inefficient. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paperinik77pk Posted April 12, 2020 1 hour ago, zephyr1934 said: What a brilliant solution... <flinch> modifying a 30+ yr old part Here's a thought for you, if you are going custom wheels, why not go all the way to full custom wheel sets? You could use a pair of 1x2 technic bricks, and the same axles and roller bearings that folks are using for the low friction axles today. Thereby simultaneously eliminating the need for (and sparing the life of, grin) relatively rare parts and overcoming the biggest limitation of those parts- high friction. Of course you would then need to incorporate a fake axle head in your design. In fact roller bearing steam driving wheels would be of benefit to PF/PUP builds too, but that's a different thread. Returning to topic, your wheels look great! You opened a world I did not consider - till now! I could try: 1) A simple version without bearings: a Technic brick with hole, a wheel with a 2mm semi-axle included to be inserted in an half pin. Not so much friction-friendly, but better than using old parts. 2) Wheels with a Technic axle hole (half bush deep), a 5-long axle, and Technic bricks (this would also allow traction) 3) Your solution + some things seen on RailBricks: MR52zz bearings in a Technic brick, a 2mm steel axle (I've to find it somewhere), wheels with 1.9mm hole, so the steel bart remains locked inside the wheel. It could work!!! Well... it seems I've a lot to do!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LEGO Train 12 Volts Posted April 12, 2020 What a great and professional work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paperinik77pk Posted April 14, 2020 On 4/12/2020 at 10:56 PM, LEGO Train 12 Volts said: What a great and professional work! Thanks Emanuele!!! I've some updates: I tried the big wheels on PF track - they work fine until they reach a switch...then they got stuck or derail The problem is the following: they hit the point where the curving rail has little gap and get stuck. At high speed this transforms in a derailment. It seems the problem is due to the smoothness of the printed wheels. Lego wheels edges are smoothened, while the printed ones have pretty sharp edges. Plus, the original Lego wheels are kept in place better than mine, which have a bit of lateral wobbling (they should be 0.2 millimeter wider - probably this is due to printing tolerance). Back to work!!! Ciao! Davide Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
