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Hello and good afternoon, a really great model, I have a problem opening the pdf file. I always get the message (file is not compatible with Adobe Reader). Have fun building such great models. Greetings Hyperion

Sorry, I got it.
Thanks again.

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Instructions for all modules uploaded on Bricksafe.

Please note that I have made some changes to the main module - The new version is named 1.1, change history is included. If you downloaded the previous version please replace it with the new one.

Thanks everyone. If anyone needs help, let me know.

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Epic model and many thanks for providing the instructions for free. I am really concerning to disassemble my liebherr and to build yours. Do you have a complete parts list to import into bricklink somewhere? 

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21 minutes ago, myvideo000 said:

Epic model and many thanks for providing the instructions for free. I am really concerning to disassemble my liebherr and to build yours. Do you have a complete parts list to import into bricklink somewhere? 

I was concerned too, but in the end I concluded that the main use of lego must be to build.
By the way, now I have some doubts whether to dismantle this new moc, sooner or later I'll have to decide to go ahead...

you're right, now I see how to create a complete list

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Thanks for the parts list. Sadly there are some color mistakes and I cannot import it into bricklink. Can you create a xml-Version? That would be nice.

Why did you connect the flat liftarms often with 1/2 pins and not 3/4 pins?

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4 minutes ago, myvideo000 said:

Thanks for the parts list. Sadly there are some color mistakes and I cannot import it into bricklink. Can you create a xml-Version? That would be nice.

Why did you connect the flat liftarms often with 1/2 pins and not 3/4 pins?

The problem is that for some part it was still not available an official LDraw model. For example for the new motors. So I had to use an unofficial library for them. Let me have a look at it, but I think that by now the only way is to use  a list without the new parts.

1/2 pins give strong connections with the flat liftarms when conncting from below and allow you to connect stud pieces when used on top.

You use 3/4 pins when you want the lift arm to rotate around the pin, but the connection is not strong. If I remember correctly, there is no such case in this moc. If you refer to a precise step number in my instructions, send it to me and I will check it.

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16 minutes ago, Flybum said:

You use 3/4 pins when you want the lift arm to rotate around the pin, but the connection is not strong. If I remember correctly, there is no such case in this moc. If you refer to a precise step number in my instructions, send it to me and I will check it.

For example step 53 at the right track. or step 94 at the cabin.

An example of wrong colors is step 68 at the cabin. The part only exists in dark bluish grey. Instead you can use another connector no 3, two connectors no 6 and vertically two connectors #26287 in black.

Do you have any suggestions and / or photos regarding cable management?

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I imported the .csv into Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/users/tvroenho/lists/75852/

The Volvo Excavator shares 55% of the parts with the 42100-1 Liebherr R9800:
2282 parts in common (99 unique) that appear in both 
 42100-1 Liebherr R 9800 Excavator and  VOLVO EXCAVATOR 2020
1497 parts (177 unique) are in  VOLVO EXCAVATOR 2020 that are not in  42100-1 Liebherr R 9800 Excavator (excluding spare parts).

https://rebrickable.com/sets/compare/slow/?1-set=42100-1&1-inv=37842&1-user_list=&2-set=&2-user_list=75852

No go find a cheap 42100 set! :wink:

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2 hours ago, myvideo000 said:

For example step 53 at the right track. or step 94 at the cabin.

An example of wrong colors is step 68 at the cabin. The part only exists in dark bluish grey. Instead you can use another connector no 3, two connectors no 6 and vertically two connectors #26287 in black.

Do you have any suggestions and / or photos regarding cable management?

OK following your points:

Step 53 in the right track: there you need strong resistance perpendicular to the pin. You don't need a resistance along the pin, and besides the 3/4 is likely to protrude and interfere with the movement of the tensioner (while you are safe with the 1/2).

Step 94 at the cabin: as I said, the connection is stronger with the 1/2. Try it and you see what I mean. Of course it's just a matter of taste.

Step 68 at the cabin: I am afraid rebrickable db is not updated. I see that error too, but I used the black color because I have plenty of those pieces 87082 in black. See my photo on Bricksafe

Any case I uploaded a part list on Bricksafe that you shoud be able to use. I have removed the engines, the hubs and the actuators that have no updated model at the moment, at least according to what I know. Updated the  color for the axles with stop, 3L and 5L, from brown to reddish brown.

Cable management: the only real constraint is that the farthest motor in the main arm has a short cable, so it can only be connected to the hub in the position I have indicated. The hubs are mounted lifted to allow cables to pass from one side to the other. The cables are bulky, but the outside is detachable and you can easily check inside.

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2 hours ago, Theo van Vroenhoven said:

 

No go find a cheap 42100 set! :wink:

It's probably worth repeating that this moc may be of interest to those who have already bought Technic products, including the 42100, and are perhaps wondering if two motors directly connected to the tracks are a worthy solution for that price.

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6 hours ago, Flybum said:

OK following your points:

Step 53 in the right track: there you need strong resistance perpendicular to the pin. You don't need a resistance along the pin, and besides the 3/4 is likely to protrude and interfere with the movement of the tensioner (while you are safe with the 1/2).

-> that makes totally sense. Thanks

 

Step 68 at the cabin: I am afraid rebrickable db is not updated. I see that error too, but I used the black color because I have plenty of those pieces 87082 in black. See my photo on Bricksafe

-> If I have to guess, than that are not real lego parts. But there are more umportant things since that part won't be visible from the outside. 

Cable management: the only real constraint is that the farthest motor in the main arm has a short cable, so it can only be connected to the hub in the position I have indicated. The hubs are mounted lifted to allow cables to pass from one side to the other. The cables are bulky, but the outside is detachable and you can easily check inside.

-> Thank you.

See the arrows for my comments. 

I hope that programming the brickcontroller app won't be too difficult. But building your epic model is a large first step which will take a while. 

By the way, for cost efficiency I decided to use the color scheme of the Liebherr since I have most of the required panels in white. 

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@myvideo000

Right, that piece is not visible. If you wonder why I made the roof of the cabin so thick, it's because I wanted to make room for the lights and only see light from the front. Anyway, there are Lego sets with 87082 in black. For example 42053Volvo EW160E.

The Brickcontroller application is tricky at first, but when you start using it you don't leave it . And there are tutorials and people who can help you, including me. What you need to check is if you have a controller that can be connected to your phone.

Wise choice for colors. This is a moc designed to reuse what we already have, especially in cases where lego did not provide a model B.

 

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1 hour ago, Flybum said:

@myvideo000

Right, that piece is not visible. If you wonder why I made the roof of the cabin so thick, it's because I wanted to make room for the lights and only see light from the front. Anyway, there are Lego sets with 87082 in black. For example 42053Volvo EW160E.

 

Now I see the confusion. I didn't mean part 87082, which exists in black, but 26287. It is the same as 87082 but with axle connectors on the sides instead of pin connectors. 27940 only exists so far only in dark bluish grey, 87082 in various colours, but not in dark bluish grey. See here:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=87082&idColor=11#T=C&C=11

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=27940#T=C

 

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36 minutes ago, myvideo000 said:

Now I see the confusion. I didn't mean part 87082, which exists in black, but 26287. It is the same as 87082 but with axle connectors on the sides instead of pin connectors. 27940 only exists so far only in dark bluish grey, 87082 in various colours, but not in dark bluish grey. See here:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=87082&idColor=11#T=C&C=11

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=27940#T=C

 

You're right. Looking carefully my excavator from below I see that I had to use a dark gray 27940 piece. Luckily it is barely visible from the outside :wink:.

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1 minute ago, Flybum said:

You're right. Looking carefully my excavator from below I see that I had to use a dark gray 27940 piece. Luckily it is barely visible from the outside :wink:.

lol. My suggested workaround ist completely black :-)

Can you control the powered up LED in brickcontroller just like a motor? I only used the old LEDs via sbrick and this one via brickcontroller.

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1 hour ago, myvideo000 said:

lol. My suggested workaround ist completely black :-)

Can you control the powered up LED in brickcontroller just like a motor? I only used the old LEDs via sbrick and this one via brickcontroller.

Yes, of course. You just plug it into a hub port. The difference with previous power functions is that you can't stack multiple connections on the same port. So if you only have one free port, as in this case, you can only connect one pair of LEDs.

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well I just finished your terrific MOC the other day and it is a beauty!! I had the chance to test the motors with the brickcontroller 2 but am having a terrible time to set up a full program to use with a game controller. Having a heck pf a time to get both hubs to connect at the same time...any help with this??

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1 hour ago, AFOLegofan66 said:

well I just finished your terrific MOC the other day and it is a beauty!! I had the chance to test the motors with the brickcontroller 2 but am having a terrible time to set up a full program to use with a game controller. Having a heck pf a time to get both hubs to connect at the same time...any help with this??

I'm glad you like my moc but worried because you're not the first one to ask me how to control it.
If it's any consolation, I can tell you that I too had some difficulties at first that seemed impossible to overcome. After the first time you can use bricklink2 you'll see that you don't leave it anymore.
It is always ready immediately and the difference between using the touch screen on the phone and a real gamecontroller is huge.
I'll try to tell you the two critical points where I almost gave up:
1. The phone: I tried it with my Samsung at first, but it didn't connect. Then I realized that it was a company phone set up to block unknown connections, without giving warnings. Then I used an old Sony Z2 and it connected immediately. Obviously I take it for granted that you have a gamecontroller that claims to be connectable with Android.
2. Definition of new commands: for me in the tutorials available on the net it is not clearly explained that every time you enter a new definition you have to click the v check mark in the top right corner. If you don't, the command is lost without any feed back from the app.
I hope this will help you. Look at the comments of the video in the link below and you will find other suggestions I gave to someone in the same situation as you. Good luck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D12Oa5e3KEI

 

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Great model. Congratulations.
I'm currently building it with a colour change and some simplifications to the bodywork, still waiting on some international orders for parts but I've completed the main body and a modified cab.

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2 hours ago, AussieBrett said:

Great model. Congratulations.
I'm currently building it with a colour change and some simplifications to the bodywork, still waiting on some international orders for parts but I've completed the main body and a modified cab.

Nice. Which colour scheme do you use? I chose the Liebherr style und made some modifications. In the mean time I replaced the wrong coloured parts.

The huge size you can compare best with its smaller brother 8043.

 

Unbenannt.png

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Thank you and I'm very pleased to see your work.
I've ordered some Lego parts me too these days. Lego had announced a bit of a delay due to the Covid, but the orders were fulfilled perfectly as always.

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