WesternOutlaw

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In one piece.... 15461:

15461.png

Or 33299 with an axle-pin (no friction!):

33299.png

Or 6632 with two axle-pins (no friction!) or two 2L axles:

6632.png

You get the idea...

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53 minutes ago, Duq said:

In one piece.... 15461:

15461.png

Or 33299 with an axle-pin (no friction!):

33299.png

Or 6632 with two axle-pins (no friction!) or two 2L axles:

6632.png

You get the idea...

@Duq I can't thank you enough – thank you so much! I'm sure this is basic stuff, but to get to grips with elements and MOCs is something that I'm completely unfamiliar with besides modifying a bank truck once to pair with the Brick Bank colour scheme. I'm going to buy these pieces now! I'll be sure to share a film of the resulting tram!!! :D Thank you!!! 

Here's my winter Christmas train. I'll try to do a similar one for the tram!!! Thanks again, Duq! Can't thank you enough!! 🙌 

 

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i managed to put magnetic couplers on but i dont know if articulation is enough.

stud.io file can be found under the link in my signature.

 

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14 hours ago, XG BC said:

i managed to put magnetic couplers on but i dont know if articulation is enough.

stud.io file can be found under the link in my signature.

 

Thanks for this – great design! I've already ordered the Lego parts suggested by @Duq so I will give that a go this coming weekend, as we're going to try to build all 4 trams on Saturday – looking forward to it! Hope your design gets a chance to be made! Thanks for helping too! 

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Have anyone else not been able to access Big Ben Bricks for the past week or so? I was thinking about ordering a set of XL-drivers for a upcoming model.

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11 hours ago, -DoNe- said:

Have anyone else not been able to access Big Ben Bricks for the past week or so? I was thinking about ordering a set of XL-drivers for a upcoming model.

I can get on the website just fine...

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9 hours ago, Murdoch17 said:

I can get on the website just fine...

Hmm how peculiar. I've tried both Safari and Chrome neither seem to do the trick. At least I now know it's still there so I can keep trying. Thank you.

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5 hours ago, -DoNe- said:

Hmm how peculiar. I've tried both Safari and Chrome neither seem to do the trick. At least I now know it's still there so I can keep trying. Thank you.

Interestingly, periodically I lost access to the site, and sometimes it loads normally :\ maybe they got problems with the server/hosting  

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Hello Train Tech! I've got a few Q's regarding LEGO train-ing; I've always wanted to make some but never had an idea of where to start until now. The basic idea I've had is an as-small-as-possible layout, but still at minifig scale, with the subject matter a Swiss metre-gauge line. So...

1. Track-wise, I'd like to avoid the 8-wide track in the interest of compactness. I know LEGO made some 4-wide track, what are custom options like for this size? (I've also considered using rollercoaster rails, but they seem a bit more restrictive for a 'normal' train.)

2. I'll happily be corrected if I'm wrong, but for standard gauge trains 7-wide seems to be a common building standard. Is there a similar one for the smaller gauge trains (I would assume 5-wide), or is it entirely scale-dependent?

3. Finally, are there any options for motorising trains this small? Again, I assume if it is possible it will require some custom parts?

Hopefully you can help - no doubt I'll be coming here a lot if I get around to tackling it! Otherwise, any general resources for starting out in LEGO train land are much appreciated!

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To provide some answers:

1 - Lego only provide a sharp curve in 4-wide track, not even a straight.  You can build a straight using individual rails though.  If you go non-Lego then Trixbrix do a range of 4 wide track, including wider curves, straights and points.

2 - For standard gauge you can see 6, 7 and 8 wide, even 10 wide.  They all have their compromises.  If you're looking to use 4 wide track to represent 1m gauge, then the scale is about 1:42 (1000mm/24mm) which is about minifig scale.  Narrow gauge trains in real life are around 2.5m wide.  At 1:42 scale that would be about or between 7 and 8 studs wide.

3 - For motorising you can maybe fit a Lego linear motor in the loco and use technic gears and axles to drive the wheels, but it's usually a challenge.  The standard Lego train motor is not so useful, although I think I saw one mounted in the body on it's side.  There's a chap on here @LEGOTrainBuilderSG who does excellent models of Malaysian railways narrow gauge, check this out for example:

Hope this helps a bit.

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5 hours ago, idlemarvel said:

To provide some answers:

1 - Lego only provide a sharp curve in 4-wide track, not even a straight.  You can build a straight using individual rails though.  If you go non-Lego then Trixbrix do a range of 4 wide track, including wider curves, straights and points.

2 - For standard gauge you can see 6, 7 and 8 wide, even 10 wide.  They all have their compromises.  If you're looking to use 4 wide track to represent 1m gauge, then the scale is about 1:42 (1000mm/24mm) which is about minifig scale.  Narrow gauge trains in real life are around 2.5m wide.  At 1:42 scale that would be about or between 7 and 8 studs wide.

3 - For motorising you can maybe fit a Lego linear motor in the loco and use technic gears and axles to drive the wheels, but it's usually a challenge.  The standard Lego train motor is not so useful, although I think I saw one mounted in the body on it's side.  There's a chap on here @LEGOTrainBuilderSG who does excellent models of Malaysian railways narrow gauge, check this out for example:

Hope this helps a bit.

That's very helpful, thank you! And thanks for doing the maths for me - as it turns out the vehicle in question is 2.65m wide, so 8 studs would be bang on the money!

Well, I do like a challenge... I do remember seeing that Malayan Railway vehicle the first time round, nice to be reminded of its existence! It seems the weight of the vehicle is enough to prevent wheel slip without too many carriages, which is another thing I was wondering.

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One problem with 8 wide is that the loco or cars will be correspondingly long. That means wider curves which in turn means you need more room for your proposed "small-as-possible" layout. You should consider 7 wide as a "near enough" compromise if scale matters to you. Perhaps you would need to go for a simple short shunting style layout.

My rough calculation of scale was based on centre of rail rather than inside of rails. That would make it 1000/22.5 = 1:45 approx which would make your 2.65m wide loco nearer 7 than 8 studs.

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9 hours ago, idlemarvel said:

One problem with 8 wide is that the loco or cars will be correspondingly long. That means wider curves which in turn means you need more room for your proposed "small-as-possible" layout. You should consider 7 wide as a "near enough" compromise if scale matters to you. Perhaps you would need to go for a simple short shunting style layout.

I'm certainly not super worried about scale - it matters to me until it becomes inconvenient! But that's a good point. Space is at a premium in my place which is where the size restriction comes from, but perhaps I should start with the loco(s) and see what fits best.

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The conventional Lego track is 4 studs between the rails, for 6 studs outside of one rail to the outside of the other on 2x8 ties. It is common for people to build 6 wide trains to 8 wide trains to run on this track. Most trains from lego have been 6 wide, but some of the AFOL sets have been up to 8 wide. 6 wide is cheaper to build and easier to run due to size and weight but 8 wide offers much more options for details.

Small trains are easily powered with the third party circuit cube system. Look for the bluetooth expansion kit. Works great in the current Harry Potter express train set.

 

 

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I have been thinking about getting into 9V trains on the cheap, using plastic tracks with copper tape and my own DC adapter. The ghetto trick with the copper tape should be very well known by now. However, I haven't found any info online on ghetto switch tracks. Can it be done? I suspect the 3 ends of a switch tracks are somehow connected electrically underneath the plastic, so I should probably solder some wires underneath the tracks, but I don't have access to any tracks right now and I can't find any photos of 9V switch tracks underneath. Could someone advise me on the matter or simply examine their own 9V switch tracks and upload photos? Cheers.

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2 hours ago, johnnytifosi said:

Could someone advise me on the matter

When you go here

you'll find a (crude) schematic of the 9V LEGO switch and what it does in the very first picture. The remaining part of that reply is addressing an issue that came up in a very complex layout, discussed above that reply.

Best regards,
Thorsten 

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@Toastie Wow thanks that is a nice schematic. So the left side (red) of the switch is powered on both branches, but the right side is switched between branches? I was hoping for a photo of the actual rail piece but this will also do.

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1 hour ago, johnnytifosi said:

I was hoping for a photo of the actual rail piece but this will also do.

Well, Google has lots of photographs ... duh, I know. We had another interesting discussion here on EB some 4 years ago:

Now, when you look at the very first photograph in that thread (which is a bit blurry, but it's all well discernible): On the diverging track, the left (curved) rail is covered with one piece of solid metal all the way through - as is the right (straight) rail on the straight track. The lever inside the body of the track does the switching, as it is partly plated with a metal piece. I believe this is discussed in the thread as well. If not, let me know, I have modified almost all of my LEGO switches, so there is less friction when throwing them with a motor.

If you still need photographs, I'll take one apart again.

Best,
Thorsten

Edited by Toastie

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On 12/8/2023 at 12:35 PM, johnnytifosi said:

I have been thinking about getting into 9V trains on the cheap, using plastic tracks with copper tape and my own DC adapter. The ghetto trick with the copper tape should be very well known by now. However, I haven't found any info online on ghetto switch tracks. Can it be done? I suspect the 3 ends of a switch tracks are somehow connected electrically underneath the plastic, so I should probably solder some wires underneath the tracks, but I don't have access to any tracks right now and I can't find any photos of 9V switch tracks underneath. Could someone advise me on the matter or simply examine their own 9V switch tracks and upload photos? Cheers.

do you need the if the switch is turned the other way the track is turned off functionality? if not here is a Tutorial (not made by myself): https://youtu.be/8stHQgi9_Yw?feature=shared

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@XG BC Thanks, that was a great video. I have a question. How is the right side of the track switched left to right? Is it by the contact of the pieces highlighted in the red rectangle below or is there some connection underneath? I did not understand quite clearly from the video.

Eventually I might try a similar trick for a crossing piece, these are even more expensive (over 30 euros for an original, but less than 2 for a plastic knock off).

Merry Christmas.

aBdPD1U.png

Edited by johnnytifosi

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On 12/22/2023 at 11:37 PM, XG BC said:

do you need the if the switch is turned the other way the track is turned off functionality? if not here is a Tutorial (not made by myself): https://youtu.be/8stHQgi9_Yw?feature=shared

Man, checking this guy's channel has been quite a rabbit hole. He even made his own 9V motor using a PF motor and slot car brushes and a power supply with a laptop charger and dc/dc regulator. Being a lot into electrical DIY myself, I just decided to build my own 9V railway with a DIY electrical system and some Bluebrixx locomotive and wagon. The estimated cost for everything, including 40 track pieces, 2 switches, 1 crossing, electronics from aliexpress and bluebrixx bricks is about 90 euros. Way larger and better value than buying some overpriced 9V train set on Ebay or Bricklink, and the fun of building it would be immense compared to a plug and play Lego 9V set. If I ever get around to buying all the stuff and building it I can post the progress if the forum allows DIY/ alternative bricks.

 

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i did the slot car brush mod, works incredibly well (cant check with a switch, only have pf switches, need to buy some copper tape first).

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Hi Everyone,

I've had a modular city of lego for a while and have recently started complementing it with more trains. I'm working on a "modular" train station at the moment that would fit, but wnat to start working on trains later.

My first question is mostly focused on power systems and controls. Is there maybe some guidance on how best to approach it. I was curious how others do it. For example some of the more recent lego trains come iwth the standard lego controller and battery powered motors. I don't think these are bad but at the same time super annoyed with the amount of batteries that we go through and was wondering whether there isnt a better way to approach it.

My second question is around controls. If you want to run multiple trains, how do people do it?

Thanks for all the help. Love the forum so far!

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