TRAIN TECH Help, General Questions & Talk to the Staff

[cgarison]

So I might be building a train, but it will be made out of technic pieces as that is my realm of expertise. My question is should I post it on this forum or the technic one?

P.S. I hope to make very fast.

I don't think that it matters which forum you post, but if you need help related to train specific questions, those answer will be in this group due to the level of train expertise in this forum.

If you are building a "fast" train, the first word of advice is to watch the weight of your build. I tried on more than one occasion to make my heavy, very detailed trains fast and have found many failure points along the way ranging from issues with motors to couplers pulling apart. Even once, I pulled a car into several pieces when I cranked up the speed, but I blame that on the poor quality tables my layout was arranged.

Best of luck and feel free to bring your train issues here.

[zephyr1934]

Hi guys, Im a newbie to Lego train and just recently got an Emerald Night for a decent price. Did a quick research and ended up buying another set(60052) mainly for the PF and tracks. Also acquired an XL motor so I hope I've made the right basic set-up anyways i will soon be adding tracks and someone suggested ME models and Bricklink.

What are ME models? Are they compatible with Lego trains and tracks? Are there any Aussie supplier? Thanks a heaps for the help.

Welcome aboard, you should have a lot of fun with the lego trains and you have a great starting point. ME models is a third party supplier of lego compatible parts. Their web page is here, and the whole discussion on their new tracks can be found here. If you are just starting out and building lego sets you should be fine with the standard lego curves. At some point you may find that the standard curves are not sufficiently realistic or you may start building longer MOCs, at which point the wide radius offered by the ME tracks becomes a wonderful solution.

[Mesabi]

Can someone point me to a list of all the Lego rail gauges? I've been looking for a list to compare them, but I can't seem to find anything. I just want to see a list kind of like this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Track_gauge only with Lego.

[cgarison]

Can someone point me to a list of all the Lego rail gauges? I've been looking for a list to compare them, but I can't seem to find anything. I just want to see a list kind of like this https://en.wikipedia...iki/Track_gauge only with Lego.

This is one of the better resources for building in the dimensions of Lego L-Gauge (http://l-gauge.org/wiki/index.php?title=Welcome_to_L-Gauge), but I am not aware of anything similar in the smaller gauge of Lego track. Larger gauge layouts use brick built track to accommodate the the size of the trains being built.

[Duq]

Can someone point me to a list of all the Lego rail gauges? I've been looking for a list to compare them, but I can't seem to find anything. I just want to see a list kind of like this https://en.wikipedia...iki/Track_gauge only with Lego.

Here's the list:

• 6-wide
  
• 4-wide
  

6-wide is the standard Lego train track, also known as L-gauge. It's called 6-wide because from outside to outside it's as wide as a 6 stud plate. The Centre Line Gauge is 5 studs or 40mm and the Track Gauge is 37.5mm. That size is the same for blue and grey 4.5V and 12V track, 9V track and RC/PF track.

In recent years Lego have produced 4-wide track; Centre Line Gauge is 3 studs or 24mm making the Track Gauge 21.5mm. Curves exist for this track as well as 'rollercoaster' straights that have a steep slope in them. Lego have not (yet?) produced regular straight track in this width. You can make those straights yourself with ME Models straight rails.

[Marty]

How does everyone buy their huge collections of straight tracks? Since Lego stopped selling them individually, do people just bricklink the cheapest stores? Is their any cheaper or easier way to get straight RC tracks?

[Whofan88]

How does everyone buy their huge collections of straight tracks? Since Lego stopped selling them individually, do people just bricklink the cheapest stores? Is their any cheaper or easier way to get straight RC tracks?

LEGO sells packs of 8 straight and 16 flex track segments at a not too unreasonable price. Plus if you collect the train sets there are straights in those as well.

[PeteM]

If you're patient you can sometimes get the straights and flexi pack for around 40% off, and there are four straights in station sets as well. Very infrequently you can also get a good deal on eBay, but you have to be lucky as everyone else is after straights as well!

[Niku]

Hello, I am wondering where the metal axles that connects the train wheels  can be acquired? I am missing two from a set.

[MagnusE]

52 minutes ago, Niku said:

Hello, I am wondering where the metal axles that connects the train wheels  can be acquired? I am missing two from a set.

You can buy it from shop.lego.com or at bricklink.com

 

[Buzzetta]

Sooo...  I have a value question...

I am looking to try out the power functions thing as I was still a 9v guy.  According to the LEGO site here is what I am looking at in order to power a train using the current tech: 

8878: Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box: $49.99

8884: Power Functions IR Receiver $14.99

8879: Power Functions IR Speed Remote Control: $12.99

88002: Power Functions Train Motor: $13.99 

45517: Tranformer 10v DC: $29.99

 

This comes to $121.95.  Am I better off value wise just buying one of the Power Functions train sets on Amazon?  Maybe I am missing something...   Any insight is appreciated in advance.  

 

- Andrew

 

 

[dr_spock]

27 minutes ago, Buzzetta said:

Sooo...  I have a value question...

I am looking to try out the power functions thing as I was still a 9v guy.  According to the LEGO site here is what I am looking at in order to power a train using the current tech: 

8878: Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box: $49.99

8884: Power Functions IR Receiver $14.99

8879: Power Functions IR Speed Remote Control: $12.99

88002: Power Functions Train Motor: $13.99 

45517: Tranformer 10v DC: $29.99

 

This comes to $121.95.  Am I better off value wise just buying one of the Power Functions train sets on Amazon?  Maybe I am missing something...   Any insight is appreciated in advance.  

 

- Andrew

 

 

You can also use the 88000 AAA battery box with AAA or rechargeable AAA batteries for less than the cost of the rechargeable battery box and charger.   The Power Function train sets come with the AAA battery box.  The rechargeable battery box and charger are not included.  The train sets are good value for tracks and other parts. 

 

[Buzzetta]

On 11/25/2016 at 11:31 AM, dr_spock said:

You can also use the 88000 AAA battery box with AAA or rechargeable AAA batteries for less than the cost of the rechargeable battery box and charger.   The Power Function train sets come with the AAA battery box.  The rechargeable battery box and charger are not included.  The train sets are good value for tracks and other parts. 

 

Many thanks for the response.  That's next in the Lego queue.  There were so many Amazon black Friday deals this past weekend it has to take a backseat until the day after Christmas. 

[fred67]

Just some observations from my experience this year; any comments or insights are appreciated.

For the past six or seven years, I've only dug out my 9V trains for my holiday set up; I get to set it up the week of Thanksgiving until after Christmas, and I usually just had the Holiday train (that I had to build from my own and BLed parts).  I don't have room for a permanent layout, so it's the one time of year I really get to play with my trains.  This year I got the new train, modified the tender to run the 9V motor, and noticed a few things.

1) The new holiday train seems to have a lot of friction.  It seems to me the old style wheels (with the metal axle) offer the least resistance; the newer style offers more resistance (even if I play with how far onto the axle I push the wheels to keep them loose).  It's even worse with the rotating Christmas tree gearing.  The older one could pull all the cars from the original set plus a couple of MOT passenger cars (hey, green and red... Christmas-y enough) with no problems, but just with the addition of those two small cars (and using the new engine, which also uses the new style wheels with the plastic axles), the motor overheated after running it for just a few minutes.  After letting it cool off, I took off the additional passenger cars, and it seems to run fine.... but I haven't let it run all that long either.

Curious if running the motor at a commensurate speed for the size of the train and the curves it has to go through... and the fact that it's a relatively modest sized train layout (two folding tables in an L), I'm wondering if running them slowly makes the motor overheat more than just running at a higher speed.

2) I also noticed, for the first time, I needed to weigh down the tender with the motor, or else it slipped terribly.

3) Even after weighing it down, the train still slipped on the older ME models metal track.  I know it's long been discontinued, and people had connectivity problems (thus the metal tape it came with), but I found that if I didn't run two sections together... IOW, I alternated them with LEGO track, there were no connectivity problems.... but the train would only slip on those sections.  I've removed them and dug out some more straight LEGO track...

4) ... track that was on display on a double-wide trestle I made probably 15 years ago and just had on my shelf with a couple of trains on it for display.  The track was dirty... and a bit oxidized.  I blew them with compressed air and then wiped them down, but the train still slowed going over them.  I found a regular pink pencil eraser worked wonders.... it runs perfectly now.  Is that a problem?  Is there a better or easier way?

With my LEGO collection sprawled throughout various shelving and closets, and tucked away here and there, I decided to dig through all of it and really get a handle on what I have.  To my surprise, I discovered I had not the three or four motors I thought I had, but six - including a brand new one still in the box in  sterilite drawers with variety of other train parts.  I thought NOT running them for too long might cause a problem, but I've run them all (except the NIB one), and they all seem to work.  Anything I should be worried about?  Do they need to be exercised every so often?

I also found my Railway Express.  The ugliest 9V set ever made... but also the one that started it all for me.  I was disappointed when I got it because it wasn't a classically styled train, and when I discovered LEGO offered a lot more, it kind of went in a box, not to be seen for nearly 15 years.  But I ran it... and you know what?  It's not all that bad for a modern looking city people mover.  Closer to a monorail/train hybrid looking thing...

Anyway, just a bunch of minor observations and questions - I didn't think any of them was worthy of a new thread, so figured I'd recount my experience and questions here.

 

[Criosphynx]

On 9/1/2016 at 3:33 PM, Marty said:

How does everyone buy their huge collections of straight tracks? Since Lego stopped selling them individually, do people just bricklink the cheapest stores? Is their any cheaper or easier way to get straight RC tracks?

I buy large lots used track, sell the curves  and keep what I want. You have to do some math first to make sure its worth it, often I get my desired parts for nearly free doing this.

[jtlan]

On 11/25/2016 at 7:57 AM, Buzzetta said:

45517: Tranformer 10v DC: $29.99

In the event that you do decide to go with the rechargeable box later on, there's no need to get this overpriced wall wart. The box will charge with anything between 8V and 18V; odds are you already have a transformer from some old electronics in your house with the right plug and voltage.

 

1 hour ago, fred67 said:

This year I got the new train, modified the tender to run the 9V motor, and noticed a few things.

Why under the tender, and not the locomotive where the instructions suggest it to go? Just curious.

1 hour ago, fred67 said:

1) The new holiday train seems to have a lot of friction.  It seems to me the old style wheels (with the metal axle) offer the least resistance; the newer style offers more resistance (even if I play with how far onto the axle I push the wheels to keep them loose).  It's even worse with the rotating Christmas tree gearing.  The older one could pull all the cars from the original set plus a couple of MOT passenger cars (hey, green and red... Christmas-y enough) with no problems, but just with the addition of those two small cars (and using the new engine, which also uses the new style wheels with the plastic axles), the motor overheated after running it for just a few minutes.  After letting it cool off, I took off the additional passenger cars, and it seems to run fine.... but I haven't let it run all that long either.

Curious if running the motor at a commensurate speed for the size of the train and the curves it has to go through... and the fact that it's a relatively modest sized train layout (two folding tables in an L), I'm wondering if running them slowly makes the motor overheat more than just running at a higher speed.

I've always been suspicious of using technic half-pins to connect the wheels, rather than a 6L axle. Try swapping in an axle for the two pins; removing the tires from the wheels may also help.

1 hour ago, fred67 said:

4) ... track that was on display on a double-wide trestle I made probably 15 years ago and just had on my shelf with a couple of trains on it for display.  The track was dirty... and a bit oxidized.  I blew them with compressed air and then wiped them down, but the train still slowed going over them.  I found a regular pink pencil eraser worked wonders.... it runs perfectly now.  Is that a problem?  Is there a better or easier way?

This is pretty typical, and it's a problem faced by all model railroaders. The eraser is pretty much ideal for cleaning the tracks, although if you have a lot of tracks to clean up you may consider building some sort of track-cleaning vehicle. Some members of my LUG have found that running the train for a while tends to clean up the track as well, but I worry about where the grime is actually going in that case...

[fred67]

34 minutes ago, jtlan said:

Why under the tender, and not the locomotive where the instructions suggest it to go? Just curious.

Thanks for replies.... the answer is because I'm using the old 9V motor, not the new PF motor.  I did do that to the Toy Story train, which I converted to run on PF, but you can't drive the large wheels with the old 9V motor.

I mean, I realize they are both 9V, but it just seems, for consistency sake, easier to refer to the last metal rail system as 9V (as opposed to 12V), and the newer system as PF.

 

Edited November 28, 2016 by fred67

[jtlan]

6 hours ago, fred67 said:

Thanks for replies.... the answer is because I'm using the old 9V motor, not the new PF motor.  I did do that to the Toy Story train, which I converted to run on PF, but you can't drive the large wheels with the old 9V motor.

The front truck (the "4" in "4-2-0") of the locomotive is the same size and shape as a train motor, and is designed to be replaced by it (the PF train motor has the same form factor as the 9V train motor). The only difference is that the wheels won't be red.

[fred67]

^ I realized that a little bit after I wrote it; I was thinking of the Toy Story train, but yes - the wheels wouldn't match.  I think it would look terrible.

[dr_spock]

The ancient model railroader in me would say, "color matching paint would fix that wheel problem."    The LEGO purist in me say, "just put some LEGO boat weights in the tender." 

 

[M_longer]

Hello

I have decided to buy my first Trains set and I am considering two of these:

60052:

60098

Which one would be better for a begginer?

[Murdoch17]

1 hour ago, M_longer said:

Hello

I have decided to buy my first Trains set and I am considering two of these:

60052:

SNIP

60098

SNIP

Which one would be better for a begginer?

Depends of whether you like the American-style engines (60052) or the European dual-cab locos (60098). You can always buy one then make the cars of the other set separately or buy them from Brick-link individually by car from certain sellers.

Does this help?

Edited December 4, 2016 by Murdoch17

[M_longer]

39 minutes ago, Murdoch17 said:

Depends of whether you like the American-style engines (60052) or the European dual-cab locos (60098). You can always buy one then make the cars of the other set separately or buy them from Brick-link individually by car from certain sellers.

Does this help?

A bit :)

[dr_spock]

They are both good for beginners.  They have all the components and PF parts to run straight out of the box. 60052 has a bit more tracks like switches that 60098 doesn't provide. I bought 60052 for a play set but then it slowly turned into a good parts pack to MOC other trains and things.

 

[Alexg22]

Hello,

 

probably a really sinple question which has been asked many times, sorry in advance.

I've just been given the ok by my wife to build "my son" ?? a high level track around the top of his bedroom, I'm planning double track one for 60051 and one for 60052 styles with some MOC carriages thrown in as well. 

My current high speed train will finish around 8 cars in length. I'm guessing I'll need 2 PF to power this length?? If so can I hook it up to the same IR receiver so that they are controlled as the same time? 

 

Many thanks in advance. 

 

Ill try try posting some pics once I've drilled the tunnel through the chimney breast and got it running