WesternOutlaw

TRAIN TECH Help, General Questions & Talk to the Staff

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yeah another controller is very cheap about £6.00 on brick link but shipping is expensive

2 loops are always good but it gets boring just going around in circles so maybe a main loop and a shunting yard puzzle.

search google for Inglenook Sidings, you will tho need at least one more point,

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I hate to ask another question, but on bricklink many of the results for the 9v transformer say European version. Could somebody please clarify as I am now hesitant to buy any of these if they are not from the U.S., and it could save me $20.00. Thanks!

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I hate to ask another question, but on bricklink many of the results for the 9v transformer say European version. Could somebody please clarify as I am now hesitant to buy any of these if they are not from the U.S., and it could save me $20.00. Thanks!

Can you not just buy any 9 volt adapter like from tandy, radio shack, wallmart or whatever you have in the USA, unless you want the controller which is non specific.

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Can you elaborate on this? Are saying that I should buy the european one then convert the thing that goes into the outlet? That should work. :sceptic:

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a) I'm looking for a playable train layout - if possible in a minimum space / room - and I don't know what would be the best choice (track plan).

Do you have any idea ? Where can I find some examples ?

I've moved your question to our LEGO Train Question topic.

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Good idea you have there. When I had model trains (Hornby etc) I added extra wires from the main wire to different tracks, so I could run 2 trains at the same time. I also used points to my help. Example: (Sorry for brief drawing!)

Although it is not cheap these days, the 12v system had isolated blocks and even signals.

7860-1.jpg

I hate to ask another question, but on bricklink many of the results for the 9v transformer say European version. Could somebody please clarify as I am now hesitant to buy any of these if they are not from the U.S., and it could save me $20.00. Thanks!

The 9v transformer had a different wallwart depending on where you were plugging in. See the alternatives at the bottom of this link. So if you are in the US you probably do not want the European version. Looking at bricklink, it looks like you could get all of the parts for under $20 used

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Can you elaborate on this? Are saying that I should buy the European one then convert the thing that goes into the outlet? That should work. :sceptic:

Hi Paddyb98,

I have a bunch of the 9V speed regulators (this is what we are talking about, right?). One is from the US - used to live there for a couple of years, the other are European style. They all have a "9 ... 12V ~" imprint close to the jack. I once opened up one - they have a rectifier along with some DC voltage stabilization stuff inside. This means that you can basically use any cheap power supply and run the regulator off from that. I tried +12 ... +15 V DC as well as +9 ... +15 V AC supplies on any of the US or European versions of the regulator.

Regards,

Thorsten

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Hi All,

I'm in the middle of bricklinking a holiday train, was wondering if anyone has come up with an alternative to the axle, since the lowest I've seen for the quantity I need is .75 cents a pop (need 18). I may go to the local Home Depot to see what they have, but was wondering if anyone had an alternative?

Thanks,

Tony

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And you've no problem getting the 36 wheels and 18 wheel holders?

Wheels start at €0.16. Axles at €0.60 and wheel holders at €0.39. That makes a total of €1.31 but that's adding the cheapest prices for each part which you won't all get from the same shop.

You get the complete assembly from €1.27: link.

For the wheels to fit on the axle the diameter must be spot on so I doubt you're going to get very far at home depot...

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I'm in the middle of bricklinking a holiday train, was wondering if anyone has come up with an alternative to the axle, since the lowest I've seen for the quantity I need is .75 cents a pop (need 18).

Moved your question to our LEGO Train Question topic.

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I've got motor blocks being sent to me from far distant lands at the moment, but I don't actually have any to hand at the moment. Could a forum member please tell me what the wheelbase of the 9v/PF motor is? That's the measurement in studs not millimeters.

Thanks :sweet:

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It is 6 studs axle to axle. Basically one can simulate it with 1x8 technic bricks with holes and put an axle at each extremal hole (7 holes but only 6 studs distance).

In the hope this helps...

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also check our friend Philo at his philohome website: link

He has an extensive motor comparison with a.o. the train motors.

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Thanks, that is a very interesting webpage and basically answers all my question including some I didn't know I was going to ask yet. :laugh:

Edited by TheBrickster
Discussion moved to our Question Topic

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I'm working on designing my first steam locomotive, a mikado 2-8-2. By my measurements, the drivers should be 5 studs. So my question is, what diameter (in studs)are the LEGO drivers, and the BBB drivers?

Thanks in advance,

Sal

WFB, WI

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I'm working on designing my first steam locomotive, a mikado 2-8-2. By my measurements, the drivers should be 5 studs. So my question is, what diameter (in studs)are the LEGO drivers, and the BBB drivers?

Thanks in advance,

Sal

WFB, WI

The length of five studs is 40mm. Lego's own large drive wheels are 30mm in diameter. Ben's largest, the XL drivers, are 36.8mm in diameter, which would be the closest to what you're looking for if you'll accept that much of a scale compromise.

Hope that helps! :classic:

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See the Big Ben Bricks website for details on all available wheel sizes.

That was the first place I tried. All his measurements are in "mm" which isn't much help to me being in the U. S.

The length of five studs is 40mm. Lego's own large drive wheels are 30mm in diameter. Ben's largest, the XL drivers, are 36.8mm in diameter, which would be the closest to what you're looking for if you'll accept that much of a scale compromise.

Hope that helps! :classic:

That helps a lot. Sounds like Ben's XL drivers will be my best option. Good to know since I got an invite to the LEGO Brick Friday sale thing for VIPs. I was going to by at least one of the Ghost Trains, for the Drivers, but since those are too small, I probably won't be getting it. I still may get it, as it seems to have some useful parts, but I don't seem to need it for the drivers, we'll see how much (if any) it is discounted.

Thanks again for all the help.

Sal

WFB, WI

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That was the first place I tried. All his measurements are in "mm" which isn't much help to me being in the U. S.

Funny that. Big Ben Bricks is also in the US so I'm pretty sure 'mm' works in the US too...

A quick search would have told you that a 1x1 brick = 8mm.

Or you could have found that 1mm = 0.039"

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Hi there ! I'm currently re-doing my christmas layout. I added the Winter Village Cottage 10229 ofcourse and will add the 5766 Log Cabin in winter style.

I was considering to put in the Emerald Night as well..it would fit with the car and the truck from the wintersets, but maybe the Emerald Night needs a few christmas-additions!

Has anyone ideas how to pimp the Emerald Night and the passengercoaches??? Would love to see some nice examples!!! A christmas-style station doesn't fit in my layout..that would be to big... sadly...

Thanks in advance!!

LegoSjaak

Edited by TheBrickster
Question moved to our LEGO Train Question Topic.

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Yes, mm does "work" here, and is becoming more frequently used, but is still very common (not all rulers have mm on them). As someone who works in the trades, sometimes I think it would be smarter if the US would convert to the Metric system. The English system is not at all easy for doing math. And, yes I could have looked it up, and probably even have it somewhere on my computer. To be honest, I thought BBB's wheels were larger than 5 studs. I was also looking for the stud size of the LEGO drivers. Either way, I knew this would be the best place to get not only the desired measurements, but also expert advice.

Thanks again to all who helped.

Sal

WFB, WI

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