Ngoc Nguyen

42115 - Lamborghini Sian FKP 37

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The black 32039 connector at the skirts should poke out half a stud out. What's my prize? :laugh: 

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2 hours ago, Blakbird said:

OK, I checked more closely and there is indeed a single rotational degree of freedom on that panel attachment.  I rotated them forward and it looks much better.  If I'd had the correct wheel arches in there it would have been much more obvious because those panels won't even fit without rotating them.  I've done a new render with the corrected panel positions and also took the opportunity to use the old metallic green from 8466 which looks way more accurate to the real car.  Of course, after the render was complete I spotted one more easily visible error in my file.  Bonus points to anyone who can find it.  Higher res version of the picture here.  When I build my physical version, I think I'll be replacing all the visible blue pins with black.

1280x720.jpg

black pins looks cool, but matching body color it will be even better... GoBricks will help with this in real model:) 

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1 hour ago, FX6000 said:

black pins looks cool, but matching body color it will be even better... GoBricks will help with this in real model:) 

Finally someone who knows what has to be done :wink: 

 

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1 hour ago, Gray Gear said:
2 hours ago, FX6000 said:

black pins looks cool, but matching body color it will be even better... GoBricks will help with this in real model:) 

Where do you find that GoBricks store ?

Edited by Wimmer

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2 hours ago, LvdH said:

The black 32039 connector at the skirts should poke out half a stud out. What's my prize? :laugh: 

Nope, that's not it.  Skirts are positioned correctly.

Here's an extra view just for fun that shows I can open the hood and doors reasonably well in the model and also lift the spoiler and remove the engine cover.

640x480.jpg

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18 minutes ago, Wimmer said:

Where do you find that GoBricks store ?

just add dot cn at the end ;) 

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19 minutes ago, FX6000 said:

just add dot cn at the end ;) 

But I can’t read in “cn” mode ?... :wink:

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7 hours ago, Wimmer said:

But I can’t read in “cn” mode ?... :wink:

Neither can any of us. We just use google translate. If you wanna know how to order at GoBricks, you can PM me and I'll try to explain. But maybe it is better to ask @FX6000, since both of you could talk in your mother tongue. I am from Germany, and my english might reach its limits... :wink:

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8 hours ago, Blakbird said:

Nope, that's not it.  Skirts are positioned correctly.

Here's an extra view just for fun that shows I can open the hood and doors reasonably well in the model and also lift the spoiler and remove the engine cover.

 

It’s half a stud out in mine:

800x442.jpg
 

Other than that I wouldn’t have a clue what you were referring to.

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The renders are looking awesome. Agreed it would have been way cool in metallic green (or olive green). But I still love the lime just as much.

Only thing I can notice is the lime flex axles that forms the sides of the windscreen and the sides of the roof. In the render there's a quite sharp angle between windscreen and roof, while in reality they are probably more "curved". But that's not really an error, and I know what a pain it can be to use flex stuff in MLCAD..., so yeah. (I leave them out if possible...)

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15 hours ago, Blakbird said:

OK, I checked more closely and there is indeed a single rotational degree of freedom on that panel attachment.  I rotated them forward and it looks much better.  If I'd had the correct wheel arches in there it would have been much more obvious because those panels won't even fit without rotating them.  I've done a new render with the corrected panel positions and also took the opportunity to use the old metallic green from 8466 which looks way more accurate to the real car.  Of course, after the render was complete I spotted one more easily visible error in my file.  Bonus points to anyone who can find it.  Higher res version of the picture here.  When I build my physical version, I think I'll be replacing all the visible blue pins with black.

 

The floating liftarm/blue pin near the rear fender panel? :laugh:

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4 hours ago, LvdH said:

It’s half a stud out in mine:

800x442.jpg
 

Other than that I wouldn’t have a clue what you were referring to.

yep. Same here. I think maybe he was referring to the rotor blade? But the flex axle is same as yours. 

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10 hours ago, LvdH said:

It’s half a stud out in mine:

When you're right, you're right, and you are right.  I found an interference hidden in the model that forces the 5.5L axle out half a stud.  I fixed it now.  That's not what I was referring to, but I'm glad to make the model more accurate.

9 hours ago, Erik Leppen said:

Only thing I can notice is the lime flex axles that forms the sides of the windscreen and the sides of the roof. In the render there's a quite sharp angle between windscreen and roof, while in reality they are probably more "curved". But that's not really an error, and I know what a pain it can be to use flex stuff in MLCAD..., so yeah. (I leave them out if possible...)

Yeah, the flex axles are always a giant pain.  I know LDCad is much better at it, but I never learned that software.  If someone wants to improve them, I have no objection.  The flex axle along the roof line should actually not be flat.  There should be a continuous curve from the front the back, with the center one arched a bit over the flat roof.  I could do that with enough time, but I didn't.

Last night I went through the long, agonizing process of exporting a parts list from the file and comparing it to the parts list in the back of the manual.  This revealed a number of errors that I fixed, revealed one error in the manual, and left over a few errors that are too much trouble to track down.  Summary below:

  • ErrorManual shows 26x black 11478 5L liftarm with axle holes, but the actual instructions have a mixture of black and light gray.  I'm guessing they made a change to make some parts show up more easily during the build.  There are actually 12 black and 14 light gray.
  • Missing:  1x black 32316 5L liftarm
  • Missing:  2x black 32523 3L liftarm
  • Missing:  2x black 2780 friction pin
  • Missing:  1x light gray 32316 5L liftarm
  • Missing:  2x blue 43093 axle pin with friction
  • Missing:  2x red 11214 long axle pin with friction
  • Missing:  2x red 32054 long pin with friction and stop bush
  • Missing:  1x red 3705 4L axle
  • Extra:      2x red 32062 2L axle

So that's an overall delta of -11 parts.  My Brickstock parts list now shows 3679 parts so even with the extra 11 it is only 3690 which still doesn't match TLG's stated part count of 3696.

The file is now to the point that I feel comfortable sharing it.  You can download it here.  Anyone bored enough to find where those parts are missing earns point redeemable for a free download of the updated file.

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7 hours ago, Blakbird said:

Yeah, the flex axles are always a giant pain.  I know LDCad is much better at it, but I never learned that software.

From what I remember, my LDCad file with exhaust hoses on the Hammerhead was 1.6 Mb, while your version in MLCad was a few kilobytes.  Ease of ease isn't always efficient. 

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Before I start tearing this apart and seeing if I screwed something up, when you pull the right paddle forward, shouldn't the gearbox upshift? Pulling my right paddle forward downshifts and pulling the left paddle forward upshifts.

Or is this how it is supposed to work on this model?

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What do you mean with "upshifting" and "downshifting"? Remember that in low gears the engine spins faster in relation to the wheels, and in high gears it spins slower.

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38 minutes ago, AVCampos said:

What do you mean with "upshifting" and "downshifting"? Remember that in low gears the engine spins faster in relation to the wheels, and in high gears it spins slower.

When I pull the right paddle forward (like you do in a real car with paddle shifters), and roll the car along, the engine rotates faster with each pull when it should be moving slower. When I pull the left paddle forward and roll the car along, the engine rotates slower.

Or are these "Paddles" supposed to be pushed? I mean that will solve the problem, but it isn't very realistic when compared to a real car, but then again, the paddles would also be mounted on the steering wheel and be electronically controlled. :laugh:

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1 hour ago, agrof said:

Maybe this helps:

 

My Kia has shift paddles, so I know which one is supposed to be pulled for upshifting. My question was whether or not the paddles in the Sian were correct or if I built something wrong. The Porsche was designed by the same Lego designer as the Sian, and even though the shift sequence is all wrong, the paddle on the right does upshift when pulled. When I pull the right paddle on my Sian it is downshifting. Is this how it is for everyone, or did I build something incorrectly?

Edited by Meatman

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3 hours ago, Meatman said:

Before I start tearing this apart and seeing if I screwed something up, when you pull the right paddle forward, shouldn't the gearbox upshift? Pulling my right paddle forward downshifts and pulling the left paddle forward upshifts.

Or is this how it is supposed to work on this model?

It's the same on my model. If I put my model in 1st gear, highest engine RPM, and pull the right paddle it goes to the slowest engine RPM, 8th gear.

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What leftover pices you had from box 4? I have 2 additional long blue pins and usually they are not spare ones.

 

NVM found the place where I have missed the pins :) 

Edited by Valkyx

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This sets instructions has great print quality but MY GOD is it unclear to follow at times.

And its not like im unfamiliar with complex MOC/set instructions, that's not it.

Anyway I fixed my build errors and all is good now.

Edited by SNIPE

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11 hours ago, Meatman said:

My Kia has shift paddles, so I know which one is supposed to be pulled for upshifting. My question was whether or not the paddles in the Sian were correct or if I built something wrong. The Porsche was designed by the same Lego designer as the Sian, and even though the shift sequence is all wrong, the paddle on the right does upshift when pulled. When I pull the right paddle on my Sian it is downshifting. Is this how it is for everyone, or did I build something incorrectly?

On my model, push right = upshift, and push left = downshift.

Not sure that reversing the whole thing by a simple mistake is possible though. Don't you think that a mistake when calculating the gear ratios is more likely ?

 

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Than it is not correctly representing the real movement, as paddles must be always pulled towards the steering wheel. I don't think it is actually a fail on the LEGO model, as due to the dimensions constraints it is indeed easier to pull it towards the dashboard through the "windshield". Though the movement direction is opposite as in real cars, it is still correct to use the right side for upshift and left side to downshift. It depends on the point of view, is the glass half full or half empty?

Edited by agrof

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