42115 - Lamborghini Sian FKP 37

[Lipko]

1 hour ago, Gray Gear said:

The new style has the clutch entry on both sides, so one side will be lined up against a liftarm and couse additional friction. The old style only has the clutch entry on only one side, so the side that will face the liftarm will only touch in the very middle. The old szyle just has less contact surface that can cause friction. 

Sorry to be a smart a**, but that's not precise: the friction force is not dependant on the surface size, because force is distributed on a bigger surface (smaller surface pressure). However, the leverage is smaller in case of a smaller surface so the friction torque will be smaller indeed.

Edited June 9, 2020 by Lipko

[Gray Gear]

12 minutes ago, Lipko said:

Sorry to be a smart a**, but that's not precise: the friction force is not dependant on the surface size, because force is distributed on a bigger surface (smaller surface pressure). However, the leverage is smaller in case of a smaller surface so the friction torque will be smaller indeed.

I dont know if calculations with friction force and surface preassure are really relevant here or not, since ideally there should exist no force pushing your gears against their mounts. I always sucked at physics in school XD

 All I know is that it is good to reduce the places where unneccecary friction could occur in your drivetrain as far as possible 

Edited June 9, 2020 by Gray Gear

[Blakbird]

21 hours ago, Rudivdk said:

I thought the same initially, but is has actually also been made in red, DBG, brown, reddish brown, white and yellow! But not in any recent Technic set. Let's not forget that TLG can use any part in any theme...

There are LEGO themes other than Technic?

13 hours ago, agrof said:

@Blakbird Thanks for the answer, I don't know MLCad, so I assume for the camera setting you need to fiddle with in deeper level menu. Luckily in my daily job we use a CAD software which has hot key to switch perspective/orthographic, so it is very-very convenient, yet doesn't makes my brain itchy. 

The camera has nothing to do with MLCad.  The camera is controlled in the rendering software, POV-Ray.  This software has no GUI so certainly no hotkey.  You have to manually enter the camera parameters in the input file.  I usually do my LDRaw to POV-Ray conversion in LDView which also allows you to set camera parameters.

Jim, sorry for OT.  I'll try to stop talking about CAD and get back to the model.

[astyanax]

13 minutes ago, Gray Gear said:

I dont know if calculations with friction force and surface preassure are really relevant here or not, since ideally there should exist no force pushing your gears against their mounts. I always sucked at physics in school XD

 All I know is that it is good to reduce the places where unneccecary friction could occur in your drivetrain as far as possible 

I assume you must be appalled by the 36t gear...

[Wimmer]

8 minutes ago, Blakbird said:

There are LEGO themes other than Technic?

The camera has nothing to do with MLCad.  The camera is controlled in the rendering software, POV-Ray.  This software has no GUI so certainly no hotkey.  You have to manually enter the camera parameters in the input file.  I usually do my LDRaw to POV-Ray conversion in LDView which also allows you to set camera parameters.

Jim, sorry for OT.  I'll try to stop talking about CAD and get back to the model.

What model ?....  LEGO today says “Temporary out of stock”;.... that’s “LEGO speech” for “ We won’t have any for the next 5 months...”.  

[BENJAKE512]

Has anybody in the states been able to buy the set from a Lego retail store? I’ve been checking with Lego stores in my area and none of them received any copies. Certainly manufacturing shutdowns will have affected this for North America but I was just curious if anybody has had some luck. Probably shouldn’t have put too much stock in getting it day one from my local store now that it’s completely out of stock online for the US.

[Wimmer]

13 minutes ago, BENJAKE512 said:

Has anybody in the states been able to buy the set from a Lego retail store? I’ve been checking with Lego stores in my area and none of them received any copies. Certainly manufacturing shutdowns will have affected this for North America but I was just curious if anybody has had some luck. Probably shouldn’t have put too much stock in getting it day one from my local store now that it’s completely out of stock online for the US.

Correct. Southern California stores in San Diego and Los Angeles have none.  

[Gray Gear]

1 hour ago, astyanax said:

I assume you must be appalled by the 36t gear...

No, I like it quite a lot actually. The 36z gear is a bevel gear, so it has to be thick (unlike the 16 clutch gear ). I dont see myself using it in a drivetrain, but it is very useful for the steering mechanism. I used it in my NSX and my RX7 for that purpose 

[howitzer]

If the 20t gears are too thick, wouldn't it be quite easy to thin them a little bit by sanding couple of tenths of mm off on both sides? Not that I have personally noticed problems but this is something I might do such a problem with them ever comes up...

I took a measurement of random 10 random 20t gears with a vernier caliper, and all were between 7,92 and 7,95mm. All have been also bought with fairly recent sets, most from 2016 and 2018 and maybe few from 2013 so at least for me the thickness isn't a problem. Maybe there are different batches made with different moulds, and some moulds for some reason produce slightly too thick gears? But I don't think it concerns all recent gears of this type.

[Gray Gear]

For anyone intrested in the Tan bevel gear thing, this thread exists:

further discussion could also continue there.

[howitzer]

Yeah, I copied my message to the other topic so the discussion may continue there.

[Blakbird]

Just finished Box 5 which is everything except the wheels, tires, handbag, and plaque.  The doors were not as hard as I thought, but a lot of time was spent on the flex axles.  I also kludged together a proxy version of the wedge panels for the hood by modifying the file for the straight panels.  I just linearly extrapolated the edge points out onto a slope by entering all the points by hand.  It looks OK from above.  Another little detail I noticed at the last minute is the fact that the center black strip on the roof slopes slightly toward the back.  I have that modeled correctly now.

 

 

[SheldonF]

Finished it today. I now understand what people mean when they say it looks better in person. The angles are much better reflected with the real thing. The headlight assembly really stuck out in terms of angles. So clever. I think the angle of the door opening might have to be slightly wider but the function is really smooth and well thought out. 

[Filthy Fox]

33 minutes ago, SheldonF said:

Finished it today. I now understand what people mean when they say it looks better in person. The angles are much better reflected with the real thing. The headlight assembly really stuck out in terms of angles. So clever. I think the angle of the door opening might have to be slightly wider but the function is really smooth and well thought out. 

I agree. I'm curious though, do you have any problems with the shifting mechanism? Or the drivetrain?Because my shifter barely works (It worked perfectly at first), and I've built everything correctly.

[Rudivdk]

Finished box 1&2 yesterday. Gotta say that the entire build feels very well thought out, definately a step up from the Bugatti in overall refinement. I built it with all vanilla parts, and it seems I am lucky with the tan 20t gears sofar...

I am a bit let down by the instruction books print quality though. As mentioned earlier there are a lot of misaligned parts throughout the instructions everywhere, but also there is a very noticable color difference on the cover of book 1 compared to book 2. Like they aknowledge the lime part coloring issue and replicated it in the print ink as well...:

[Go-Kart]

Great job Blackbird!

For me (at least from the top perspective), the Porsche wheel-arches don't look to bad on the Sian. Remove the colliding flexaxle in the rear, and the overall flow of the lines still works.

[Jim]

10 hours ago, Blakbird said:

Jim, sorry for OT.  I'll try to stop talking about CAD and get back to the model.

Don’t worry. You can talk a bit about CAD after creating such a wonderful model  

[agrof]

And also gives a bit insights, how much knowledge and effort goes into CAD modelling, and rendering. 

@Rudivdk That instruction... indeed looks like an intentional warning for what one can expect on the final product.  Hope, it will be corrected for later production batches ( I mean the ABS parts).

[Blakbird]

Here's the final model.  Errata:  wrong wheel arches, wrong wheels, wedge panels only symbolic, no printed parts.  It was about a week of back breaking labor (my back is actually really sore!).  I'll post the file once I have checked it for errors.

[astyanax]

1 hour ago, Blakbird said:

Here's the final model.  Errata:  wrong wheel arches, wrong wheels, wedge panels only symbolic, no printed parts.  It was about a week of back breaking labor (my back is actually really sore!).  I'll post the file once I have checked it for errors.

What can I say, except:

[LvdH]

@Blakbird Amazing job! If I might comment, the 21/22 panels on the sides at the front should be pointing down a bit. Otherwise I can't really spot anything you did wrong. 

[Didumos69]

2 hours ago, Blakbird said:

Here's the final model.  Errata:  wrong wheel arches, wrong wheels, wedge panels only symbolic, no printed parts.  It was about a week of back breaking labor (my back is actually really sore!).  I'll post the file once I have checked it for errors.

Amazing job indeed!

10 minutes ago, LvdH said:

@Blakbird Amazing job! If I might comment, the 21/22 panels on the sides at the front should be pointing down a bit. Otherwise I can't really spot anything you did wrong. 

Yeh, those panels should practically touch the bionicle teeth underneath.

[Blakbird]

6 hours ago, LvdH said:

@Blakbird Amazing job! If I might comment, the 21/22 panels on the sides at the front should be pointing down a bit. Otherwise I can't really spot anything you did wrong. 

 

6 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Yeh, those panels should practically touch the bionicle teeth underneath.

Thanks, I'll check on that.  I didn't think they looked quite right, but that's the way they fit according to my file.  Maybe I missed something.

[LvdH]

18 minutes ago, Blakbird said:

 

Thanks, I'll check on that.  I didn't think they looked quite right, but that's the way they fit according to my file.  Maybe I missed something.

It wasn't exactly clear in the instructions either. I pointed them down eventually because that's how it looked in promo pictures. 

[Blakbird]

OK, I checked more closely and there is indeed a single rotational degree of freedom on that panel attachment.  I rotated them forward and it looks much better.  If I'd had the correct wheel arches in there it would have been much more obvious because those panels won't even fit without rotating them.  I've done a new render with the corrected panel positions and also took the opportunity to use the old metallic green from 8466 which looks way more accurate to the real car.  Of course, after the render was complete I spotted one more easily visible error in my file.  Bonus points to anyone who can find it.  Higher res version of the picture here.  When I build my physical version, I think I'll be replacing all the visible blue pins with black.