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[HELP] Generic Building Help Topic

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1 hour ago, Dami said:

https://imgur.com/a/lIF93E2

Will this gear usage for turntable work?
Sorry I dont have parts to test it lol

Yes I uploaded picture on Imgur cuz I cant send it here directly lol

That'll work fine as long as it's the beveled turntable, not the new one just being produced now.

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12 hours ago, Dami said:

https://imgur.com/a/lIF93E2

Will this gear usage for turntable work?
Sorry I dont have parts to test it lol

Yes I uploaded picture on Imgur cuz I cant send it here directly lol

Also I suggest you use the biscuit piece instead of the 5L beam. This will keep the gear from slipping out sideways.

Edited by Zerobricks

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I'm building a studfull 9v motorized car.  So far it is just motor, transmission, and rear axel with floating axle suspension.  Sariel's unnofficial guide book has helped me quite a bit so far and I was able to build the floating rear axle by adapting some instructions that he includes in the book, but for the front axle I'm not sure where to start.  What would a studfull front axle with suspension look like?  Thanks!

 

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Some technic bricks + plates. Something like that. Anyway you will need to use something from technic.

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13 hours ago, PassengerJet said:

I'm building a studfull 9v motorized car.  So far it is just motor, transmission, and rear axel with floating axle suspension.  Sariel's unnofficial guide book has helped me quite a bit so far and I was able to build the floating rear axle by adapting some instructions that he includes in the book, but for the front axle I'm not sure where to start.  What would a studfull front axle with suspension look like?  Thanks!

 

8465 is studded and a small front axle. But if you need it to FWD then maybe look at 8880

Regardless, you're going to have to use quite some technic parts for the actual wishbones, and studded for the frame.

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Hello, does anybody know if it is possible to fit 4L bar (no. 30374) 30374.t1.png into holes in technic chainlink (no. 3873) 3873.t1.png? Thanks

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To clarify, it can go all the way through the middle hole, but the other four don't allow it to go through.

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8 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

Yes, but not fully through.

6 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

To clarify, it can go all the way through the middle hole, but the other four don't allow it to go through.

Thank you guys. So if I got it right it is possible to fit the bar in the side holes of the chainlink in the same way like for example in the jumper plate with the open stud...

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1 hour ago, rhplus said:

Thank you guys. So if I got it right it is possible to fit the bar in the side holes of the chainlink in the same way like for example in the jumper plate with the open stud...

Depends what you're doing. The bars do fit in the 2 outer holes of the thread, but with no clutch power what so ever. They do not stick. In the middle hole however, it does stay, but I wouldn't call it a reliable connection. Especially since if you're planning to use it on gears like an actual chain, then the bar won't stay in either.

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10 hours ago, Carsten Svendsen said:

Depends what you're doing. The bars do fit in the 2 outer holes of the thread, but with no clutch power what so ever. They do not stick. In the middle hole however, it does stay, but I wouldn't call it a reliable connection. Especially since if you're planning to use it on gears like an actual chain, then the bar won't stay in either.

Hello, I want to built a Hay Tedder as a implement for my tractor, something like this...

long chain with several chain thread pieces with bars inserted into holes. But if you are saying that the connection is not tight enough I have to look for another solution

 

 

stažený soubor.jpeg

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One thing you could try is putting a 1x4 plate on top of the track link, and then attaching some kind of bars to the plate. It might not look as good, but the plate-to-track connection is fairly strong.

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10 hours ago, rhplus said:

But if you are saying that the connection is not tight enough I have to look for another solution

I tested, connection in the middlehole could be OK, but on the other side there will be gear, so you can just put in a tip. On the sides I was not able to push that bar in at all. Didn't wanted to brake any link.

Think of some idea to create some chain from some elements. Or try to go for large chainlinks, and make something based on those.

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7 hours ago, Jurss said:

I tested, connection in the middlehole could be OK, but on the other side there will be gear, so you can just put in a tip. On the sides I was not able to push that bar in at all. Didn't wanted to brake any link.

Think of some idea to create some chain from some elements. Or try to go for large chainlinks, and make something based on those.

Hello, I am thinking of putting plate 1x3 on a tread and then using 3 round plates 1x1 with holes on top. Into holes I will put the lightsabre bars

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41 minutes ago, rhplus said:

Hello, I am thinking of putting plate 1x3 on a tread and then using 3 round plates 1x1 with holes on top. Into holes I will put the lightsabre bars

Something like that could work, but in my experimentation, a 1x4 plate was held significantly more securely. 

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I'm curious if there is any demand for a technic focused virtual building tool.  Perhaps it could bring a concept of physics to the virtual building experience, like lego creator for technic?

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I know that stud.io has some capability of testing structural integrity. Never have used it.

More liked would be some possibility to test functionality - f.i. gearbox, if all gears are correct, some linkages (LDD has it up to some level of complexity) etc.

 

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29 minutes ago, Jurss said:

I know that stud.io has some capability of testing structural integrity.

It's not great at testing technic from my experience.

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Hi, is there any reliable way to connect technic part with axle hole with hole in standard 1x2 brick hole? To be precise, I wish to somehow connect this part with this part.

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Anyone know how this MINDSTORMS robot (pictures in the link) can be modified for increased stability for the task? Right now the book is too heavy for the motors. It was moving very slowly. That's probably because of the gears, right? Could one solution be to swap the place of the 40-tooth gear and the 8-tooth gear, so that the 8-tooth one is connected to the motor? Because we'd then be using a gear ratio of 8/40 = 1/5, giving us a much stronger torque.

Maybe if I swap the gears so that the small gear is driving the large gear? That thing will then be able to move mountains (but slowly), or experiment with different gears other than the 8t and 40t. 8:40 is one of the most extreme ratios one could choose in technic, possibly there are many alternatives available to us by choosing different gears.

http://gears.sariel.pl/

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Posted (edited)

Hello one and all!

I am hoping for some help in trying to make a Stephenson eccentric as showcased here:

I am namely needing the bottom round area replicated; something that can surround and lock around a 4x4 round brick (6222), and have an axle opening upwards. So ideally in stud size not exceeding 6x6 and 1.5 stud in width. As of yet, I haven't had much luck figuring it out and am almost to the point of looking for someone to custom print the two or four needed parts. Any ideas or designs would be highly appreciated!

Edited by GeorgeCrecy
Fixing wrong part mention

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